Paint and Body Care

britton2 · June 2001

just wondering - why do you use a cleaner wax on a new vehicle? I was under the impression that a cleaner wax contained some abrasives and wasn't really necessary for a new car - how did you like the results? Escapes - they are nice!

alcan · June 2001

Do you drive your Escape like your company car? If so, brake shields aren't for you. Vented brake shields work well to keep wheels cleaner if you're not an agressive driver who's hard on the brakes. They will reduce airflow across the rotors and reduce brake cooling somewhat, which could accelerate brake fade and rotor warping under high braking loads/temp. I have them on all 4 wheels on my 96 Riviera and they work great, but not on my 93 SHO Taurus. However, I drive the SHO with much more......verve. ;-)

k9cop1 · June 2001

Very observant! Yes, cleaner wax by definition,is slightly more abrasive than pure wax. I used it for these reasons:
1) I'don't always have time to go through all the proper steps for fine detailing.
2) I used this on my 93' Celica (black) convertible & had great results.
3) I didn't have the heart to throw away 1/2 a bottle! LOL
Dave
P.S. Yes, the Escape is a great car/truck!

k9cop1 · June 2001

I drive 78 miles(round trip) from Long Island to Manhattan M-F. Although distance is a factor, I'm not really that hard on brakes. My "hot rod days" are for all practical purposes, OVER! I don't like the idea of warping rotors & brake fade though & will probably pass on this idea. Thank you for your input.
Dave

k9cop1 · June 2001

I am considering brush/grill guards & tail light protectors for my Escape. Any preferences & why?
ie.1 piece vs.3 pieces etc..
Dave

sailorbeavis · June 2001

Any suggestions on how I could repair some cracks in the dashboard of a 1986 Mercury Topaz? I think the dash is made of vinyl / plastic, and the sun has put some not-so-nice cracks on the driver's side by the steering wheel. It's got to the point where I considered replacing the top dash panel, but decided against that... it's apparent that there's not even a difficult way to do that...

joe166 · June 2001

If they installed the dash in the first place, there must be a way to replace it, but it wouldn't be easy or cheap. I think you should go to a boat or Auto upholstery shop and ask them. I am sure they could strip the old vinyl and replace it but I have no idea what the cost would be. You could always get a piece of shag rug and lay it across the top of the dash and cover it with bobbing head figures.

bretfraz · June 2001

1. I went to Dashboards.com but they didn't have anything for a Topaz. Maybe an e-mail to them asking for input would help.

2. Check out the local wrecking yards. You'll prolly find exactly what you want and it won't cost too much.

tronsr1 · June 2001

If it is not feasible to repair or too costly, you can always pick up a nice "dash cover" at jcwhitney for about 30to 40 dollars.
www.jcwhitney.com
I do not work for them, but ocassionally purchase from them and receive their catalogues. They always have dash covers listed.

rayfbaird · June 2001

If you car has some water spots a cleaner wax will take them off. This should be the only problem on a new finish. Plain wax won't remove these spots. However it's best on a new coat. Wipe spots off before you wax then use regular.

spyderturbo · July 2001

I have been waxing the painted plastic trim (adjacent to the trunk and where the convertible top is)on my car, since the car was new (1998). I have continued to have some of the black paint rub off into the rag, as if the paint is oxidized. I want to protect the trim, but I'm wondering if I should be using wax to do this. I would be interested in any advice. Thanks!

mdames · July 2001

If your wax has any petroleum distillates or solvents, it is deteriorating the surface of your trim. the VERY BEST thing you can use on plastic or rubber is Aerospace 303. It has the highest properties for protecting against ultra violet rays. You can also use the stuff on your tires, complete interior (vinyl and leather), and on your alloy wheels. I've used it for some time, and swear by it.

spridledog · July 2001

Hey folks! Anyone have any experience with Stoner car care products? I've seen them advertised in many car mags, and am intrigued by their Invisible Glass and Speed Bead products. Wondering if any of you have tried their stuff, and how it worked. Tnanks.

joe166 · July 2001

I have used the Stoner Products, mostly Invisible Glass which is a very nice glass cleaner, but not a lot better than several others. If you get it when a rebate or discount applies it is worth it, otherwise it is marginal. I also used the Tire Dressing. That was before I stopped using tire dressing because it seems to attract that brown brake dust residue and trap it. It worked fine, but gave a little too much shine for my taste. Seemed artificial, but lots of people commented on how nice it looked (for a few days) and it was very easy to use. I was intrigued by the Speed Bead and spray wax. I am sure that they are quality products as their others are, but I am using Zaino now and don't like to mix. I think Stoner makes high quality products which are reasonably priced. I am sure they will do what they say they will do, at least in my experience they have.

britton2 · July 2001

Invisible Glass - paid about $4 for 1 can - it works just OK - I had some stubborn water spots on my windshield that the Invisible Glass could not remove - so I then mixed 1 part distilled water with 1 part white vinegar - did not spray it on the windshield, just wiped it on using a white paper towel that I had folded into a square and dipped into the solution - water spots all gone - I don't think I'll buy any more pricey glass cleaners -

spridledog · July 2001

Jose, thanks for the input. Hey, for your tires, have you tried Meguire's Endurance product? I use it and LOVE it, for two main reasons, both of which you should appreciate: 1) It will NOT turn your tires brown, and 2) It leaves a great satin sheen, not a super glossy look (use the regular Endurance, not the High Gloss). I agree with you that totally glossy tires are a bit much, although I know many people like it. Plus, it spreads on easily with no mess or overspray, lasts for weeks, and even smells nice! Try it!

spyderturbo · July 2001

Thanks for the tip, mdames. Who sells it?

baltodiva81 · July 2001

just bought my first car, an '86 Dodge Aries. It needs to be touched up a little and I was wondering what color would be best for it? Right now its a maroon-ish color w/ red interior(I think the material is suede or something like that). I was thinking about painting it black but someone told my dad that scratches and stuff shows up very easily on black. Is that true? If so what other color would look good w/ red interior and still hold up for awhile w/out fading, etc? Any suggestions?

mdames · July 2001

Check out www.303-products.com. It's the Aerospace Protectant.

joe166 · July 2001

is usually a losing proposition. Any possibility that you could touch up and restore what you have? As bad as it might be, any paint job you would be considering is going to devalue the car. Any competent buyer will know it is a repaint and they will assume you did it to cover major damage. I had a serious color matching problem on an Pearl colored STS I owned and as a result I got a really great (and incredibly expensive) repaint out of it. When I went to resell my car everywhere I went they pointed to the repaint (and it was the same color) as a devaluing factor. I have heard this from many people in the car business and an 86 probably would not justify much more than an economy paint job which, if you change the color is really going to look like just that--an economy paint job. Most of the cheap paint jobs you see advertised are based on the same color and they don't plan on painting the door jambs or the underside of the hood and trunk, making the paint color change painfully obvious.

It all depends on how picky you are, but generally, I firmly believe that a full paint job is a last resort and will not leave you smiling. Your choice, that is just my opinion. Any cheap paint job you get will not likely take well to shining and waxing and if you change the color it certainly will show scratches and scuffs as the other color will show through. Don't do it! If you have to, keep the original color.

spyderturbo · July 2001

Thanks!

~Spyderturbo

eharri3 · July 2001

It's 15 years old... can't really loose much more value. But you're definitely right about oen thing. A really good paint job will probably run mroe than the car is worth.

Mr_Shiftright · July 2001

I wouldn't repaint a car like that. If you get a good paint job, you will exceed the car's value, and if you get a cheap paint job, they really look awful. Maybe just clean it up, have it professionally buffed, and save your money for a nicer car next year or so.

rayfbaird · July 2001

I have a 1991 red car that was almost pink when I purchased it I cleaned it using Meguiar's chemical scrub, a swirl remover and clear coat prep. Expect a lot of color to come off. Then I put on a glaze/sealant and a wax. Yeah, a lot of work, but now it looks better than new.

Don't use the chemical scrub if your paint is cracked.

Abrasives and chemical scrubs can be too harsh after this treatment, so now I only use the glaze/sealant and a pure wax (no abrasives) like california gold, or Meguiar's Hard Yellow #26.

roderacer · July 2001

I recently bought a Black (I know, I know) Chevy Impala. There are 3 parallel fine scratches on the rear driver side door that look like they may have gotten to the primer? The color on the scratch is a ligter one so that is why I can notice it so well.

What could I use to fill/blend in those scratches. They are pretty irritating to look at. I don't want to mess up the finish in that area.

Thanks for any suggestions!
RR

frito · July 2001

I've had some success in reducing fine scratches using rubber erasers--you know those red rubber pencil type (Eberhard Faber) that come in blocks (trapezoid shapes etc.) This method allows you to control the blending process to just the fine lines. I also think that erasers come in varying `hardnesses` e.g. pencil vs. ink-types with more abrasives. The blending can also be controlled by the use of fluids (just water, or maybe adding some rubbing compounds) on the tip of the eraser as you go. And then lots of elbow grease. Another application of this method that I have yet to try is with those mechanical erasers -- like draftsmen use. The eraser is mounted on a pen-like device that simply vibrates at high speed. Then of course, follow-up with N-coats of Zaino!

bretfraz · July 2001

It really depends on how deep the scratches are. Did they really go to the primer?

With clearcoat paint even the finest scratches will show up since the clearcoat is, uh, "clear".

If you can run your fingernail across the scratches and clearly feel each one then they are prolly pretty deep. If you can barely feel them then maybe its just the clearcoat that is damaged.

I think the two choices you have are to experiment by using a variety of products to remove the scratches. This will take time and money but if you like a challenge..........

The other choice is to take your car to a pro detailer or a reputable body shop. A good detailer can tell how much damage there is and may be able to buff out the scratches. A body shop can do essentially the same thing.

bretfraz · July 2001

I agree that a repaint will prolly be worth more than the car. I can't imagine even an economy paint job reducing the value.

I second the advice that the first step is to try and buff it out. Actually, old cars like this are good ways to experiment with buffing and polishing techniques. I mean, how much more damage can you do?

I prolly wouldn't bother with a new paint job on a K-Car. Spend the $$ on a bumpin' stereo or something worthwhile.

Just my two worthless pennies that I picked up off the street.

roderacer · July 2001

thanks for the info!

I have heard that Chevy decided a while back that their vehicles don't need primer. I'll put it this way... I can see the scratches. In the scratch groove it is a light color, so it went through the clearcoat. Doesn't look like bare metal or I'd have gotten it taken care of sooner, but I may just bite the bullet and go to a body shop.

The eraser trick sounds feasible, but with my luck I'd trash the whole door and have to pay buku $$ to get it fixed.

When I first got the car, I Zaino'd it. Only one coat as I didn't have 6 hours to spare for the second one to dry.

Off to the body shop I go!

Thanks!
RR

frito · July 2001

The light material in the scratches is probably flecks of the damaged clearcoat. The eraser method is useful in removing the damaged clearcoat particles with a minimum of damage to the surrounding area. Another poster in another forum suggested using toothpaste in lieu of rubbing compounds since some brands contain abrasives. When I use this method, I try it on a few inches of the scratch to test various materials. So far most of my fine-line scratches have been limited to fascia corners- squeaking by brush (or not) on `unimproved` roads.

surrfurtom · July 2001

I'm thinking of having my 2000 GMC PU truck 2 -toned. Do you figure new paint (below beltline) will hurt resale? Paint will be factory correct for that model/year. Also is there any way to remove the side moldings intact without damaging them or must they be replaced.? I think they are held by double sided tape. Are the smooth finish (not texured) black fender flares paintable? Thanks for any help and opinions.

bretfraz · July 2001

Here's at least my two cents:

1. Well, it won't help resale. A sharp used car manager can always tell if a car's been repainted. But if you sell privately it'll be OK. Just know that no one will care.

2. Side moldings usually get damaged when removed so its best to replace them. You're right about the double sided tape.

3. I'd have to see the flares but my guess based on your description is "yes, they can be painted".

chuasan · August 2001

I recently got a chipped paint on my hood. The size is about * - the size of the star! It already begins to rust. What are my options? Please help me out. Thanks

Chris

joe166 · August 2001

I put the URL of the site of Car Care On Line in the other subject (the "Zaino" board) that you posted this question on. Go to it and it has a comprehensive article there on how to do it. Oh, what the heck! Here it is again.

http://carcareonline.com/

rxb123 · September 2001

Had my new odyssey for 2 days and just found a scratch in the paint. I caused it by just touching a concrete post in a parking deck. It's a painted bumper and now looks like paint is pushed/rubbed to one side. What do I do - anyone think i can claim warrantee? I didn't buy their accessories (paint sealant to protect against acid rain - give me a break). Any suggestions would be welcome. Meanwhile, I'm kicking myself for doing it...

bretfraz · September 2001

uhhh, no.

The paint sealant thing wouldn't have stopped you from crashing into the post either.

eharri3 · September 2001

Are for flaking, peeling, or rust... instances where the finish deteriorates when it is not supposed to. If they covered scratches and other nicks they'd probably lose lots of money doing free repairs every time someone does something to their car like you did. Either bite the bullet and pay to have it buffed out at a good bodyshop or live with it.

lex430 · September 2001

After coming out of the mall today, my driver's side mirror was knocked to the reversed tilt position, and I noticed an inch long scratch on my driver's door toward the bottom. Aside the fact that I wanted to bash in the car parked next to me, what is the best way to take care of the scratches??

The scratch is about an inch in length, I wiped clean the area, and there are several scratches going across the door panel, I tried a bit Z5 with no avail. The scratch looks like it's above the paint to me, or very light, but I am not an expert by any means. I am wondering if there is any special agents out there that I can use to "wipe off" the scratches? or to cover it??

any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

eharri3 · September 2001

In your position I would have inspected the car next to mine for damage in a corresponding area or for some of my paint. If I found both they would have found upon returning a message about the importance of parking with care scrawled with my keys in a highly visible area on their vehicle, or maybe a flat tire, depending on whether it seemed like they would care about their paint.

I did this once to an expedition parked with its bumper in contact with mine when I came out of the hospital. I had marks as a result... he had no damage because it was actually his license plate frame that came in contact with my bumper. There was no way the driver wouldnt have noticed since they had to walk around both vehicles to come to the entrance. The most irritating thing was that in an almost completely empty parking lot with dozens of free spaces this person had to come and kiss my bumper.

By the way... I've gotten rid of lots of minor surface scratches with polishing. Otherwise, rubbign compouds may work.

bretfraz · September 2001

Zaino didn't solve your scratch problem?? I'm in a state of shock! And here I thought Sal's finest cured all ills.

Try some polishing compound to remove the scratches. This problem happened to me a month ago and a little bit of Meguiar's Fine Cut Cleaner followed by some 3M Imperial Hand Glaze made my mirror look like new.

dlaughlin · September 2001

I use the Meguiar's polish and wax and it looks great but have a problem that doesn't sit right. Did my car with complete clay, polish and wax and looked great but it picks up finger prints like mad. Opened the trunk and when I closed it prints were all over the place. (car dark blue)

briggs5 · September 2001

I have a 1998 Volvo S70 T-5 and have done a lot of driving in the northern US. Just this year, the break parts began to rust, rotors, calipers, and some hose clamps. Any suggestions on removing the rust and salt stains that remain. I've tried almost everything to remove the salt, however, the stains return when roads are wet. Please help.

bretfraz · September 2001

Well, removing rust and removing stains will take two separate processes. Salt may need some chemical cleaner to stop the stain from spreading. Sorry, I don't have a specific tip.

If you want to get rid of the rust, you can disassemble the parts and use a rust remover (chemical) or sandpaper. Clean each part perfectly. Then protect the item with some kind of rust inhibitor, clear coat, or paint.

robr2 · September 2001

I've used white vinegar to remove salt stains from leather shoes, clothing, etc. Might be worth a try on an inconspicous spot on the car.

Good Luck.

jawhn · September 2001

I recently purchased a 95 Mazda Millenia (the color looks like Prowler purple). The car is in excellent condition except for the paint. (Didn't think it was this bad when I bought it.) There is white oxidation between the Pearl Clearcoat and the paint. There are also fairly heavy scratches on the Hood, Top, and Trunk. The rest of the car has fine scratches all over it (I don't think the previous owner ever did anything to the exterior except maybe run it through very abrasive car washes.) I have tried Scratch Removers, Swirl Removers, Cleaners, Polishing Compounds, Rubbing Compounds, Clay, Polishes , and Waxes, All from good companies (Meguiar's, 3M, Mothers etc.) and aprox. 16 hours of labor. I also took it to a body shop and had them buff it out. Results were minor improvement in the scratches and very little improvement in the oxidation (the paint still looks terrible.) I have a quote from a very good body shop (does all the Custom work in town) for $1350.00 on a repaint with full prep. I have read every post in this forum and understand the resale issue but this does not concern me (I drive a car until it's DEAD). This is a $9000.00 car and I want it to look like one. WHAT SHOULD I DO?

Mr_Shiftright · September 2001

Well, given the car and your circumstances, I'd probably repaint it then. I'm a little worried abou the quality you'll get for only $1,350, however.

jsylvester · September 2001

The 67 Ford I own has surface rust on the back of the front chrome bumper, and I want to take care of it while it is relatively minor.

Since it is not an area anyone can see, and it is not finished, I was thinking of lightly sanding down the loose rust and then painting it with one of the various rust removers available. These products are supposed to convert the rust into a primer type surface that can be painted if necessary. I was just going to leave it the primer color. I will probably only need about $5 worth of the stuff.

Does this stuff actually work, and will this keep the rust from returning?

Also, if a car has about a dozen scratches or chips, what should I budget for repair? I would prefer not to paint the entire car, as I believe the paint is original. I would like to make the car look better, but mainly to preserve it another 34 years.

topgun7 · September 2001

Has anyone used the 3M clear bra or variation of the product to protect their paint (especially the nose). I am wondering if there is going to be problem down the road (e.g. cloudy paint, rust etc). Also what is a reasonable cost for the installation and material? Is there a better brand than the other? thanks.

bclough · September 2001

Washing my red car, I found two pin-head sized white dots on the hood. They are not something stuck onto the top of the paint, but they seem to be nicks or dings -- it definitely feels like a slight indentation when I run my fingernail over the place. Could this be a chip, perhaps from a bit of gravel, which went through the paint? It is not metal colored, but definitely white.

Brenda

pronigier · September 2001

I had tree sap accumulate over the summer and went to a detaler in January to get it fixed. Then yellow spots appeard some time later.

Inssurance paid for it to get color buffed,160.00
Shop said it was caused by chemical. After many calls to rude insurance people I sent an email and they said they will pay 3000 to have my car painted.

Isn't 3000 too much ? Insurrance said they already sent the check. Are they likly to raise my rates ? I still don't trust them. I am getting it painted at the end of the month.

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