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Leather Seat Maintenance
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I checked around for getting leather installed and could have had it done on my extended cab Silverado for $900.
According to Lexol, their leather cleaner can be used on vinyl or leather, but their leather conditioner should only be used on leather. Lexol makes a good vinyl protectant called Vinylex.
It is hard to tell which parts are vinyl and which parts are leather. I found that if I pushed my finger into the fabric and there were fine creases surrounding the place I was poking, it was leather. The vinyl does not crease the same. It's a slight difference, but was enough to tell. In my car, and most others, it is only the actual top surface you sit on and the back surface you lean on that is leather. All other surfaces are matching vinyl.
Lexol said to ask my dealer, but I have found that dealers usually don't really know much about their cars. They may tell you something, but it stands a good chance of being wrong.
Naugahyde is a trademark name for vinyl-treated fabric. It's in the dictionary, too. I grew up in Connecticut, a few towns away from Naugatuck. There was a chemical plant there; I think it was a Uniroyal facility. They developed the process for treating fabric with vinyl, and they found that the material had many applications in which leather had previously been used. Hence, the name Naugahyde. Regards.
-- Dale
But the others areas.....? Has anyone had the same encounter, or am I just seeing things?
I wish the owner's manual would identify the exact leather parts. I use Lexol conditioner and it isn't supposed to be used on vinyl. I use Vinylex for vinyl which isn't supposed to be used on leather. So knowing which is which is important.
My daughter who has been relegated to the trunk, not only wrote on my leather seats (beige) Camry but dug into them with a pen while scribbling and the ink seems to be growing. Any suggestions or am I just hosed on this one. It looks bad, but I am afraid to use harse cleaners.
INKY
As for leather in general, let me pass along some info I got working on a story about a baseball-glove maker that produces gloves for Worth.
1. Today's leather isn't as good as 20 years ago. (I responded that that's ridiculous, a cow is a cow.) But the manufacturer told me that today's growth hormones boost growth so much that skins are younger, not as tough, and lack strength because of the rapid growth. He tore a piece in half with his hands - it wasn't difficult - to illustrate.
2. The key is replacing the oils lost with age. His No. 1 fix: Vaseline. (Obviously, not much of a choice for automobile seats.) But the principal is the same - supplying an absorbably oil for the leather. (Never use Neatsfoot oil or anything like it; it hardens leather.)
3. Moisture is the worst enemy. Sweat is the worst of the worst. Do anything to keep the seats dry and clean.
4. I guess the final solution is to do what the glove maker does: spring for kangaroo skins - light, flexible and strong. Hmmmm, the ultimate option.
I have found a product that takes out ballpoint pen stains...
It's called "Classic Soft Trim Step 1 Leather Cleaner" made by Classic Soft Trim, Co in Austin Texas 78746...
The comments about using something oil-based on leather is why I like HIDE FOOD more than Lexol....Lexol is watery, but HF is a cream that you can work into the leather and let stand. I get a softness and shine I cannot reproduce side by side using Lexol.
Regarding the cracking "problem", I doubt you would get any warranty satisfaction...cracking is a normal process in leather, which is why I always tell people that if you're not tolerant of deterioration don't order leather in your vehicle...it's just part of the deal, and the harder you use the seats, the more you'll notice cracking and thread-pulling, etc.
I think the reason that modern leathers aren't generally as durable as in the old days is that they are chemically treated and spray=stained all for the cosmetic effect...a natural leather would, I think ,remain much softer and be much more durable but one coffee spill and you'll have brown upholstery forever.
there have been reports of restorers brining back leather 40 & 50 years old, on some old European cars...this was probably Moroccan leather, which I believe is goatskin.
So it seems that the nicest looking leather can still be the least durable in modern cars...also it depends on what quality hides the manufacturer buys....Comanies like jaguar buy the best, and Volvo one grade down though still a good quality, and so forth down the line.
By the way, did I already bore you with the fact that it takes 5 cows to do a Lexus?
They key to keeping the cracks reduced or gone is to keep the leather clean and conditioned. I have used Lexol for years and it works better than anything I have found. If you let the dirt get into the leather it acts like little razor blades to tear the leather, and once the crack happens it can't be fixed with any success.
About the quality of leather. If someone showed you leather that would tear, it was old and dry. I sell Wheelskins steering wheel covers in my business and that leather is soft, supple and you won't tear it! But compare that premium cover (made from USA cows! to the cheap imports on the store shelves and they will tear easily when you try to stitch them up! They are dry and stiff. Chances are at one point they were good leather, but no longer. Not even Lexol can bring back leather damaged that much.
Don M.
Also, do you think tinting the vehicle's windows would help (reducing sun exposure) with leather maintenance? Just a thought.
Thanks for any info.
It hasn't been my experience that American hides are all that durable...they "dress" beautifully( i.e., they look good), as do the hides on the Italian cars...but I can't say I'm convinced they are particularly durable...average quality is what I would say is my current impression. Some Scandinavian hides are good because they don't use barb wire up there like we do. There's a complex grading system that the leather tanners use...whatever they use in Bentleys and Rolls and the highline German cars is simply beautiful and seems to wear very well, but I suspect that even the "luxury" car manufacturers use different grades for different price levels.
Leather with perforations? Are you quite sure it isn't a synthetic insert with leather trim? Mercedes has long used excellent sythetics (M-B Tex I believe it's called) But anyway, I think you're right, you would have to be careful not to glob a cream conditioner in those little holes...I think if you buffed it out with a rough rag (like a deep pile towel) you'd be okay, though.
Yes, It is great!!! Smells wonderful also, but a small benefit as compared to being a good leather treatment.
http://www.carcareonline.com/leather_care.html
And let us know how it all turns out please!
Don't shoot the messenger! For your new vehicle, a damp cloth/dry cloth should suffice. You might want to ask him what year Jag he owns.. Tell him you were curious about the long term effectiveness of hide food...
I have been using Lexol with success. The May issue of Corvette Fever magazine recommends its choices for best detailing products. For leather, they suggest Zaino leather. For paint finishes, they suggest Finish First and Zaino.
Has anyone compared the Connolly Vs Lexol. How long does it last?
I often see separate bottles of leather cleaner and conditioner, plus bottles that claim to combine the two. You speak of Hide Food like it's a conditioner only; if so, what would you use to periodically clean your leather? My car is new (bought it in November); any reason not to use Lexol (since my seats don't need restoration)?
others:
re: Zaino. I agree that Zaino polish is awesome stuff. But I must confess to be incredulous: how can they make EVERYTHING fantastically? That is, while I believe that Zaino polish is probably the best stuff around, I am having trouble believing that their leather cleaner and leather conditioner products are also tops. Just a cynic, I guess.
It's called "Classic Soft Trim Step 1 Leather
Cleaner" made by Classic Soft Trim, Co., in Austin Texas 78746...even gets out ball point pen marks....
Looks like we need to have a Lexol / Hide Food / Zaino Face-Off sometime soon at the Edmunds Town Hall Users Lab....
Is this a spot cleaner, or usable for generally cleaning the seats? I saw when you had posted it above, but the way you mentioned it, it was unclear that you could use it like you would the Lexol Cleaner (not the conditioner).
anyone:
1) I've seen a bunch of products that say they're good for cleaning/conditioning vinyl and leather. I'm somewhat skeptical about this claim: I would think that the two substances are two different for one product to work well for both
2) Any preferences for greasing weatherstripping around door and windows?
3) how about for cleaning the insides of auto windows?
I don't care for spot cleaners because one tends to work on that spot and rub the hell out of it and before you know it, you've got a discoloration in the dye.
I'm not promoting that lexol is "the best", but I've heard it is a good product. I decided on the lexol mainly, because it was available at my local Pep Boys. And, I didn't want to spend too much time chasing down other products.
The Leather cleaning/conditioning application was simple enough. However, since my leather seats are new and had no apparent dirt (especially the rear one that are never used) I can't say I noticed a difference. I went ahead and did the whole process as a preventative measure.
Hi Jess- Just curious, where did you hear that lexol takes 5 hours for oil to soak in?
At the lexol website they say: "20 to 30 minutes to absorb the oils and preservatives... After cleaning and conditioning, the interior should be allowed one to three hours drying time, depending on temperature and humidity." (My seats seemed to be dry in about an hour.)
For those interested, here are lexol's cleaning & conditioning instructions: http://www.lexol.com/docs.htm
Question: Since my van's rear seats are hardly ever used... (I don't have kids), do I still need to clean and condition them the same as the front seats- every 2-3 months.
It did feel a bit funny washing and conditioning leather seats that are brand new and spotlessly clean. Also, my rear windows are tinted, so the seats are pretty shielded from the sun. Any opinions about how often to clean/condition those seats you never use?
I would say on a minimum of 2-1 ratio; i.e., do all surfaces once a quarter. So you would do your drivers seat each 2 months.