Excellent! Thanks a million for the suggestions. I know where the EGR valve is on that car but woah, it doesn't look easy to get to, so that is why I haven't taken it off already to clean it. The car will have the condition right after it is started, but it is much less noticeable. Since the weather has been cold here in Michigan, it barely does it. Also, when this happens the car is always idling, never will it do this while the gas pedal is pressed. As for the codes. My friend is out of town on business, and may or may not have taken his car. So it may be awhile before I can get those codes. However, it is terrific that I now have another way of getting the codes. Thanks, and I will get back to you as soon as I can get my hands on that car. Oh, BTW. It defiently is not OBDII. I wish it was, because I know someone with a really nice computer reader that could probably get me some good useful information. Take Care, Jrc.
SES light could be alot of things, usually a sensor (like Oxygen sensor) reading wrong. It could be as little as your gas cap being loose. You could try tightening the cap, drive the car a few times, see if the light goes out. It takes a few ignition cycles to turn the light off if it is the gas cap. If the light stays on, take it to a mechanic with diagnostic equipment for GM vehicles. They will need to hook it up to check for codes so they can pinpoint the trouble. Unless the light is flashing, it's not going to make your car explode, but should be checked out.
SES light could be alot of things, usually a sensor (like Oxygen sensor) reading wrong. NO NO NO NO!! It is NOT usually a sensor, like the O2 sensor. It is RARELY the O2 sensor. Most often when you have an O2 trouble code, it is from some other cause, such as a vacuum leak, exhaust leak or wire connection. More often than not, it is a plug or wire broken.
Okay, settle down! I was trying to put this guy's mind at ease. SES light is usually NOT something to spazz about. There are alot of reasons for the ses light to come on. That was my point. I misspoke about "usually"
SES light is usually NOT something to spazz about. Never said it was.
But you have to understand, I have seen literally hundreds of people replace sensors because someone told them it is usually this sensor or that sensor. So, they took that as to buy the sensor and replace it. Without the trouble codes, there is no way to even guess what the problem is, so why do it? It gets irritating to see people say that it is usually the O2 sensor when they have no idea.
Just bought a 2003 Toyota Certified RAV4 with 8,500 miles. Second day out of the lot, the check engine light went on. Took it back to the dealer, and they said the code meant "low engine performance" or something like that. They guessed water splashed on the catalytic converter, rapidly cooling it, and therefore the light came on. They turned the light off and said it should be fine. Two days later, the check engine light came on again and another trip back to the dealer for me. This time they said they will change the catalytic converter, but it will be a month or more as it is in "national back order" status, which must mean there are no parts around. I asked them if the converter wasn't the result and not the cause, that maybe it was a bad O2 senor or something else. They said that what Toyota suggests they do for that code is change the catalytic converter, as it's under their warranty. I did purchase a 100k bumper to bumper Toyota warranty on top of the 3 year warranty, so I'm not too concerned with fixing what's wrong. But it is frustrating. Anyone else experience this type of problem?
Good Morning all! I have a Buick 96 Regal, I got from a dealer a week ago. The 'Service Engine Light' is ON now. There seems to be some fluid leeking from the hood. It smells bad. I checked the dash panel, the engine does not seem to heat up. Is the fluid leek related to the light? Can I still drive?Please advise. Thanks.
big help if we knew what it was. Got a blacklight? shine it on the suspect slop and see what color of fluorescent dye is in there. Now pull the transmission dipstick (if any) and see what color glowjuice is in there... similarly check the oil dipstick and some drops from the radiator cap's sealing surfaces. whatever matches is what's leaking.
then use the blacklight to see where most of this glop is on the engine, assuming fan/road wind has not pushed it all to the back of the engine, and we'll posit possible leaks.
if you slide clean cardboard under the engine area at night, there will be fresh drops precisely under where gravity pulls the leaking slop down. that is also quite useful in pinpointing where the leak is, which helps determine what it is. which helps also determine how essential it is to pay to fix it.
P0402 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected
AutoZone scanned this code from my 2002 Camaro Z28 (LS1V8). The car has 18k miles so it's under warranty, but if it's a visible problem (something is dirty, or disconnected), I may fix it rather than do without the car for a day.... how simple might it be?
I bought a hyundai accent that was a salvaged vehicle. The 1st week I had it the engine light went on the guy told me to undo the battery and reconnect in about a 1/2 hour so I did. The engine light went out. A few weeks later the engine light is back on and now he says I need to bring it in to the dealer and have them reshock the computer. Anyone know what this means and what it might cost me? The guy will not stick behind the vehicle. Help Help Help..........
Bought gas today, first time since the light came on....gas cap was completely loose. It was so cold whan I bought gas before, I rushed getting the cap back back on & didn't screw it in right. I suppose this was the cause of the light coming on.
If it was the emissions check that turned the light on due to loose gas cap, when the system does another check it will go off.
It will do another check when it's started under certain conditions. For my car it was something like engine water temp over 130 and below a certain temp (warm restart) with tank between 1/4 and 3/4 full. It applies vacuum and checks to see how long it's retained by system -- it's testing for leaks that could lose gas fumes.
Note that it doesn't recheck when system has been running; the check happens on restart with warm, but not hot engine. So you might do a few short drives if that is not your usual pattern.
Disconnecting the battery only erases the computer's memory but if it detects the fault again it will light up again. So the computer is trying to tell you to read the codes and find out what's wrong with the car.
I own a 2001 Dodge Neon Se with 53,000 miles on it..my engine check light came yesterday. What could cause this? I had a oil change last week. The car runs fine and is not overheating.
Could be any of a dozen things. The powertrain control computer had detected an out of range signal in one of it's monitored circuits. If you take it to an Autozone they'll scan it for trouble codes, no charge. Post the code #'s and we'll go from there.
We have a 1998 4-cyl Accord with 69K miles. We had the 30K service done at the dealer and the 60K service done at a local service station.
Since the car is over 5.5 years old, I bought a new battery and planned to install it on the weekend.
My wife was driving home one evening and the CEL came on. It didn't go out for the next three days. After I put in the new battery, the light went out, and has been out for the last two days. The engine also sounds a little quieter.
I read most of the messages under this topic, and I have learned two things:
1) The CEL may indicate a serious problem.
2) Have it checked out by someone you trust. An unscrupulous dealer or repair shop can charge you hundreds of dollars too much and still not fix the problem.
I thought I knew a fair amount about cars (I did a lot of work on my 1968 TR250), but this CEL stuff is all new to me.
I appreciate all of the advice from those of you who are knowledgable and I appreciate all of your stories about the trouble you have had solving this problem. It sure has opened my eyes.
likely two unrelated issues. hope you had dim lights at idle with the old battery and the problem is fixed with the new one, or it was a false reset and your light and issue will come back.
you will have to have the trouble codes pulled from the computer and the appropriate diagnosis and repair done from the "issues in system X" that correspond to the codes that were set. honda does not release service information for whatever reason, but there are generic codes in international standards for some things. if those are set, some things can be chased on a common issue basis.
I personally have an issue with "black box" manufacturers who don't want any comment on anything except how shiny the paint is. first ran into it with a honda generator I couldn't get a set of points for because "you don't understand this." so honda is not generally on my buy list.
Have had some problems with low idle and then check engine light coming on. Anybody else have this problem? Check engine light goes out after about a day.
You might have partially closed EGR valve which is leaking small amount exhaust gas into intake and this may lower your idle speed. Even may cause stalling. But you need to post more than that to have some opinions...
Wife's 2000 Corolla with 75,000 miles engine light came on last night. I considered buying my own scanner, but went to Autozone and got only one code:
Trouble Code: P0171 Vehicle Qualification: Toyota Corolla Description: System too Lean (Bank 1)
Rather than replacing both oxygen sensors (which are both over $150), I decided to see if the intake system is dirty and/or bad gas, so I bought fuel system cleaner and filled it with Sunoco 94 octane. I thought I'd yank the battery to clear the code and see if it comes back once she runs through the crappy gas she bought.
My question, I don't really want to shell out $330 for sensors that may not be the cause. Is there anyway one can tell which of the sensor it actually is, or if in fact it's something else entirely. Can a mechanic learn anything more from a diagnostic than I already know?
Start by checking for possible causes of a lean condition: cracks or damage to the air intake system downstream from the airflow sensor, vacuum hose disconnected or split, or any other sources of unmetered air entering the engine.
or at least, it won't stay cleared if the $$$ light does go out. that's something that should light up again after some operation, or perhaps a few on-warm-off cycles, like they do it in fords.
I have a 2002 chevy Prizm w/50k miles. The check engine light came on.
Here's the situation of when the light appeared: Drove car with A/C on. (not 1st time I had A/C on this month.) Went into my garage, and placed car in park. then headlights came on automatically since garage is dark enuf to trigger the auto-on. then check engine light came on. It stayed on the next morning when I drove to work.
I've had the AC on, put the car in park, and the headlights go auto-on quite a few times over the past 2 years. Just this time the engine light came on.
How do i (w/o going to a mechanic) find out what the code is, and what the problem associated with that code?
Should i reset? (incase this was a fluke, since if it was a real problem the light will come on again.)
I have a 1997 Monte Carlo LS with check engine light coming on solid. I took it to my mechanic for second time in two weeks today, and as expected he said the code is indicating a loose gas cap as before. He checked the gas cap this time and said it was ok. Any ideas to further isolate would be appreciated.
Update to my post: Autozone was busy and said to come back in a couple of hrs.
so in the meantime, i popped the hood to see if i can see anything wrong (loose wires, fluids leaking, etc).
well, i opened the air filter and it looked fine. i didnt notice any other problems, so i closed the hood i drove home. next morning when i was going to go back to Autozone, the check engine light was out.
a few days later, i was at the supermarket. i just started the car to leave. i had the A/C on. when i stopped at the exit to see if i was clear to merge into traffic, my car died. i started it again, and it died again. i turned off the a/c, and it was fine. But the check engine light went back on.
so i drove home, popped the hood and open/closed the air filter box. the check engine light was still on when i went out later that day. but when i drove back home, the light was out!
it sounds like there's a problem with the alternator. but why does checking the air filter clear the light? the air filter and the alternator are on 2 different sides of the engine.
THX --------------- #994 of 995 Check engine light went on. How to check what's wrong? by anon70 Apr 19, 2004 (10:40 am) I have a 2002 chevy Prizm w/50k miles. The check engine light came on.
Here's the situation of when the light appeared: Drove car with A/C on. (not 1st time I had A/C on this month.) Went into my garage, and placed car in park. then headlights came on automatically since garage is dark enuf to trigger the auto-on. then check engine light came on. It stayed on the next morning when I drove to work.
I've had the AC on, put the car in park, and the headlights go auto-on quite a few times over the past 2 years. Just this time the engine light came on.
How do i (w/o going to a mechanic) find out what the code is, and what the problem associated with that code?
Should i reset? (incase this was a fluke, since if it was a real problem the light will come on again.)
DTC P1656 Circuit Description The DTC P1656 Intake Camshaft Position (CMP) Actuator Solenoid Control Circuit diagnostic monitors the operation of the CMP actuator system. The CMP actuator system enables the powertrain control module (PCM) to change camshaft timing when the engine is running. The CMP actuator solenoid valve controls the oil flow that applies the pressure to advance or retard the camshaft. The PCM provides a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal for control of the CMP actuator solenoid.
Conditions for Setting the DTC The PCM detects an open or a short in the CMP actuator solenoid control circuit.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL). The PCM stores the conditions that were present when the DTC set as Freeze Frame data. Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC The PCM turns OFF the MIL on the third consecutive trip cycle during which the diagnostic has been run and the fault condition is no longer present. A DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles have occurred without a fault. A DTC can be cleared by using the scan tool Clear DTC Information function.
Remove the plastic top engine cover, the actuator is in the front, right (passenger side) of the cylinder head. Wires are black and red. Make sure the harness connector is fully seated on the actuator, no strain on the harness, no chafing of the wires.
Also, there's an oil filter in the actuator. To replace it, remove the plug from the end of the solenoid and then remove the filter.
I have a 96 Mitsubishi Galant and the "Check Engine Light" is ON. I had it checked for the code and it says P1400 -- something to do with auxilliary emmisions or something.
Has anyone had this error or similar situation? What should I do to fix this? What could be wrong? Please help. Thanks.
this sensor controls a computer command set that changes the oil pressure to a timing component, and that sets the engine timing. timing off, you stop. timing sorta off, you waste gas and have no power. timing way off, on some engines, the pistons hit the valves and the head and/or engine is wrecked.
you may have a bad sensor, or a wiring fault to the sensor. chase the whole wiring train, black/red, from the sensor as far as you can, make sure the connectors to the sensor are clean, and the wires are not melted together or to anything else. pull 'em apart and use high-temperature tape to fix any shorts that may exist, then find a way to re-run the wires so they don't get against hot metal and get hosed up again.
if this goes a long time without the fault, the error code is cleared in the computer. how long is plainly stated above in alcan's post from diagnostic sources. that should tell you it's an intermittent fault. betcha the cable runs near the air cleaner housing. you're pushing against a harness when you take that off, right? that's changing either the cable or the connection on the sensor, under that fancy plastic block on top of the engine.
-0-
either there is a short in the cable, or the connection to the sensor is loose. that's your end fix. how you get there without wrecking things is something you (I) would know if you (I) worked on these. the fancy plastic block is likely to need removal, and needs to be torqued to certain standards to avoid warping or cracking it on replacement. unknown if there is a gasket involved you'd have to replace.
if you are comfortable with this now, you can try doing it yourself. if not, print these tips, and take 'em with the car to your mechanic. if this was mine, and I plowed ahead, I'd also replace the tiny oil filter in the actuator Because I Can, and be done with the possibility I'd have to open it up again.
just suck it up and replace the gas cap with a genuine GM one. there are gaskets and back valves in these things now that go wonkus. cheap fix, and if it didn't fix it, you didn't lose the house over its cost.
the light was off. i drove to a store. when i left, i had the a/c on. as i stopped to exit the parking lot to merge into traffic, my car died. i restarted and it died again. i turned off the a/c, and it stayed up but the check engine light was on again.
i drove it a few hundred miles like that. then the light went off. this time i didnt do a thing. it just went off by itself. oh, the weather was 20 degrees cooler.
is the sensor sensitive to starting temperature?
what does that plastic shield on my engine do? i dont have a torque rachet. i was just thinking i'd get it tight, then do a 1/4 turn more.
some of them are really the intake manifold as well as a beauty shield, and cracking it can cause problems similar to a head gasket failure. it can also cause subtle issues related to excess unmetered fresh air in the engine, which shows up as funny idles or stalling, with or without the $$$ light set.
lacking fine answers to all these questions, and your lacking a torque wrench, I think the best plan is to have a mechanic correct it. there are lots of times I look at my service literature and say this is not my task. in those cases, I justify my manuals as insurance against having idiots work on my car :-D
On one website P1400 stands for Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction for Mitsubishi cars. Not sure how to fix the error and what could be wrong.
sometimes known as a MAP sensor is what it sounds like to me. the service literature should show a voltage range across the unit, and if it's out of those limits, or stuck at one level when you punch the accelerator in neutral with the e-brake set and wheels blocked, that would be a good indicator the sensor is shot.
could also be wiring to the sensor or the input network in the engine computer is Stuck Outta Luck, too, it would seem to me.
bottom line: don't waste money buying parts until you've checked them out. buy a manual first if you need to, or subscribe to alldata DIY, it's cheaper than playing parts roulette.
My check engine comes on and there`s not a thing wrong with my car. I pull the MFI fuse out to reset the light but it come again in about 100 miles. Does anyone know how to reset this light some it does not come back on.
corrected. That's why Lexus installed the light! It's to let YOU know something isn't right. If it could be turned off at will, it would serve no purpose.
jerryand, The only way you can reset the light is with a scantool. If the problem is gone, then the light will go out. If there is a problem, the light is on. No problem, the light is off. You need to have it scanned to find out what the trouble codes are.
Understand that if you are in an area where they have emissions testing and the light is on, you fail. No gray area. The check engine light on solid means an emission failure somewhere in the system and no EPA testing will allow the vehicle to pass without it being repaired.
Also, you should probably know that some emission failures can, over time, do some pretty severe damage to the engine.
I have a 95 dodge neon, and it was running perfectly fine until this morning. This morning when I tried to start the car, the oil light and the check engine light would turn on (the engine light would keep flashing). And after about 3 secs the engine would shut itself down. I tried adding some more engine oil (4 liters since it kept showing that oil light), but it would behave the same way. I had to keep my foot on the pedal to prevent it from shutting down. Strange thing is that once I managed to start driving, the oil and engine light would go off. But it would happen again if I shut down the engine for a few minutes and try to turn it back on. Also, the exhaust would suddenly spew a lot of white smoke for about 30 sec and then return normal as well today. Could it be a problem with the oil filter or something? I'm planning on bringing it into the shop tomorrow to be looked at, but I wanted to get some ideas so that I can better suggest the mech where to start looking.
menting, Which engine? When the check engine light is flashing, it means a "catastrophic" failure. What that means is, some major component failed and the system sees it as an engine damaging problem.
The white smoke is either coolant or raw fuel. I am betting on the latter. The reason I am thinking this is that fuel in the oil would thin the oil to a point where it wouldn't be able to build decent oil pressure. Check your oil and see if it smells like fuel. If it doesn't, then I may be way off base.
If there is an autozone near you, then have it scanned to see what trouble codes are present. If a P0300-P0304 code comes up, then one of the cylinders isn't firing. Raw fuel would be dumping in that cylinder and not being processed/fired.
When i jiggle the air filter box, the check engine light turns off. I haven't checked to see if the wires are loose/strained/melted.
But the check engine light only turns on when the A/C is on for about 10 min.
1) if this is for the oil control valve (OCV), what does the A/C have to do with it?
2) The Haynes manual says to clean the OCV filter. Is it easy to clean, or better just to buy a new filter?
Thx -----------
DTC P1656 Circuit Description The DTC P1656 Intake Camshaft Position (CMP) Actuator Solenoid Control Circuit diagnostic monitors the operation of the CMP actuator system. The CMP actuator system enables the powertrain control module (PCM) to change camshaft timing when the engine is running. The CMP actuator solenoid valve controls the oil flow that applies the pressure to advance or retard the camshaft. The PCM provides a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal for control of the CMP actuator solenoid.
I just recently bought a 94 regal coupe, 1 owner from CA, only 71K, great shape, 3.8, for $2700. I drove it home about 250 miles and it ran great. This past weekend tho, I took it on a 200 mile trip and the service engine soon lite (SES) came on. Autozone was no help-they say that they can't scan a 94 GM W-body because it's "the year between OBD I and OBD II". I changed the pcv valve, fuel fiter, air filter, plugs, and plug wires, wanting everything fresh. There's a slight miss when the transmission shifts into overdrive at about 60 mph that I'm thinking may have something to do with the SES lite since it only comes on when driving at higher speeds. can anyone help? thanks.
Thanks for your input. I don't really know what engine the 95 dodge neon has. I took it in to the shop for it to be looked at Sat morning, and the engine light wasn't flashing anymore. The mechanic took a reading at the onboard computer, and he could only see the O2 sensor had died. There wasn't any other reading. So basically I spent 70 bucks for nothing. Right now the engine would still die whenever the car is at a stop or at a very low speed, so I have to keep one foot on the gas pedal at all times. Guess I'll have to take it in for a tuneup and see if they can find the problem then
menting, Right now the engine would still die whenever the car is at a stop or at a very low speed, so I have to keep one foot on the gas pedal at all times. If it is an automatic, then it is more than likely the Torque converter control solenoid. Looking down on the engine from the fron, you should see a square green or blue connector on the transmission. Unplug it and test drive. If the stalling stops, then the converter solenoid is bad and needs replacing. Re-connect the solenoid and see about having it fixed.
Sorry for the long post... Truck starting poor for approx 9 mos-not bad enough to worry, just not like it used to. Service Engine Light (SEL) came on. Pulling into the garage to replace spark plugs, the SEL started blinking (misfire). Plugs were changed-plugs looked good except cylinder #4?(second from front on right side of engine. Autozone scanned it and reset computer-tech said may have just needed new plugs. Drove 150 miles, SEL came back on. Also blinked when idling once. Scanned today, codes are: P0175 System too rich (bank 2) and P0300 Random/Multiple cylinder misfire detected. Any tips or advice on where to start. My local dealer is not the greatest at troubleshooting problems, just replacing 02 sensors and keep selling parts until it finally is fixed. Thanks in advance.
Comments
As for the codes. My friend is out of town on business, and may or may not have taken his car. So it may be awhile before I can get those codes. However, it is terrific that I now have another way of getting the codes. Thanks, and I will get back to you as soon as I can get my hands on that car.
Oh, BTW. It defiently is not OBDII. I wish it was, because I know someone with a really nice computer reader that could probably get me some good useful information. Take Care, Jrc.
NO NO NO NO!!
It is NOT usually a sensor, like the O2 sensor.
It is RARELY the O2 sensor.
Most often when you have an O2 trouble code, it is from some other cause, such as a vacuum leak, exhaust leak or wire connection.
More often than not, it is a plug or wire broken.
See the Last Myth.
Never said it was.
But you have to understand, I have seen literally hundreds of people replace sensors because someone told them it is usually this sensor or that sensor. So, they took that as to buy the sensor and replace it.
Without the trouble codes, there is no way to even guess what the problem is, so why do it?
It gets irritating to see people say that it is usually the O2 sensor when they have no idea.
Two days later, the check engine light came on again and another trip back to the dealer for me. This time they said they will change the catalytic converter, but it will be a month or more as it is in "national back order" status, which must mean there are no parts around.
I asked them if the converter wasn't the result and not the cause, that maybe it was a bad O2 senor or something else. They said that what Toyota suggests they do for that code is change the catalytic converter, as it's under their warranty. I did purchase a 100k bumper to bumper Toyota warranty on top of the 3 year warranty, so I'm not too concerned with fixing what's wrong. But it is frustrating.
Anyone else experience this type of problem?
I have a Buick 96 Regal, I got from a dealer a week ago. The 'Service Engine Light' is ON now. There seems to be some fluid leeking from the hood. It smells bad. I checked the dash panel, the engine does not seem to heat up. Is the fluid leek related to the light? Can I still drive?Please advise. Thanks.
then use the blacklight to see where most of this glop is on the engine, assuming fan/road wind has not pushed it all to the back of the engine, and we'll posit possible leaks.
if you slide clean cardboard under the engine area at night, there will be fresh drops precisely under where gravity pulls the leaking slop down. that is also quite useful in pinpointing where the leak is, which helps determine what it is. which helps also determine how essential it is to pay to fix it.
AutoZone scanned this code from my 2002 Camaro Z28 (LS1V8). The car has 18k miles so it's under warranty, but if it's a visible problem (something is dirty, or disconnected), I may fix it rather than do without the car for a day....
how simple might it be?
I suppose this was the cause of the light coming on.
It will do another check when it's started under certain conditions. For my car it was something like engine water temp over 130 and below a certain temp (warm restart) with tank between 1/4 and 3/4 full. It applies vacuum and checks to see how long it's retained by system -- it's testing for leaks that could lose gas fumes.
Note that it doesn't recheck when system has been running; the check happens on restart with warm, but not hot engine. So you might do a few short drives if that is not your usual pattern.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
"Could be the water,
Could be the oil,
could be the spark plugs
could be the coil"
What WAS that song?
"Let us adjust your points and grease your rear end. If you like our service, next time bring your car."
Since the car is over 5.5 years old, I bought a new battery and planned to install it on the weekend.
My wife was driving home one evening and the CEL came on. It didn't go out for the next three days. After I put in the new battery, the light went out, and has been out for the last two days. The engine also sounds a little quieter.
I read most of the messages under this topic, and I have learned two things:
1) The CEL may indicate a serious problem.
2) Have it checked out by someone you trust. An unscrupulous dealer or repair shop can charge you hundreds of dollars too much and still not fix the problem.
I thought I knew a fair amount about cars (I did a lot of work on my 1968 TR250), but this CEL stuff is all new to me.
I appreciate all of the advice from those of you who are knowledgable and I appreciate all of your stories about the trouble you have had solving this problem. It sure has opened my eyes.
you will have to have the trouble codes pulled from the computer and the appropriate diagnosis and repair done from the "issues in system X" that correspond to the codes that were set. honda does not release service information for whatever reason, but there are generic codes in international standards for some things. if those are set, some things can be chased on a common issue basis.
I personally have an issue with "black box" manufacturers who don't want any comment on anything except how shiny the paint is. first ran into it with a honda generator I couldn't get a set of points for because "you don't understand this." so honda is not generally on my buy list.
But you need to post more than that to have some opinions...
Trouble Code: P0171
Vehicle Qualification: Toyota Corolla
Description: System too Lean (Bank 1)
Rather than replacing both oxygen sensors (which are both over $150), I decided to see if the intake system is dirty and/or bad gas, so I bought fuel system cleaner and filled it with Sunoco 94 octane. I thought I'd yank the battery to clear the code and see if it comes back once she runs through the crappy gas she bought.
My question, I don't really want to shell out $330 for sensors that may not be the cause. Is there anyway one can tell which of the sensor it actually is, or if in fact it's something else entirely. Can a mechanic learn anything more from a diagnostic than I already know?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for everyone's advice.
Here's the situation of when the light appeared:
Drove car with A/C on. (not 1st time I had A/C on this month.) Went into my garage, and placed car in park. then headlights came on automatically since garage is dark enuf to trigger the auto-on. then check engine light came on. It stayed on the next morning when I drove to work.
I've had the AC on, put the car in park, and the headlights go auto-on quite a few times over the past 2 years. Just this time the engine light came on.
How do i (w/o going to a mechanic) find out what the code is, and what the problem associated with that code?
Should i reset? (incase this was a fluke, since if it was a real problem the light will come on again.)
THX
Autozone was busy and said to come back in a couple of hrs.
so in the meantime, i popped the hood to see if i can see anything wrong (loose wires, fluids leaking, etc).
well, i opened the air filter and it looked fine. i didnt notice any other problems, so i closed the hood i drove home. next morning when i was going to go back to Autozone, the check engine light was out.
a few days later, i was at the supermarket. i just started the car to leave. i had the A/C on. when i stopped at the exit to see if i was clear to merge into traffic, my car died. i started it again, and it died again. i turned off the a/c, and it was fine. But the check engine light went back on.
so i drove home, popped the hood and open/closed the air filter box. the check engine light was still on when i went out later that day. but when i drove back home, the light was out!
it sounds like there's a problem with the alternator. but why does checking the air filter clear the light? the air filter and the alternator are on 2 different sides of the engine.
THX
---------------
#994 of 995 Check engine light went on. How to check what's wrong? by anon70 Apr 19, 2004 (10:40 am)
I have a 2002 chevy Prizm w/50k miles. The check engine light came on.
Here's the situation of when the light appeared:
Drove car with A/C on. (not 1st time I had A/C on this month.) Went into my garage, and placed car in park. then headlights came on automatically since garage is dark enuf to trigger the auto-on. then check engine light came on. It stayed on the next morning when I drove to work.
I've had the AC on, put the car in park, and the headlights go auto-on quite a few times over the past 2 years. Just this time the engine light came on.
How do i (w/o going to a mechanic) find out what the code is, and what the problem associated with that code?
Should i reset? (incase this was a fluke, since if it was a real problem the light will come on again.)
THX
what problems does it cause?
and what do i do to fix it?
Circuit Description
The DTC P1656 Intake Camshaft Position (CMP) Actuator Solenoid Control Circuit diagnostic monitors the operation of the CMP actuator system. The CMP actuator system enables the powertrain control module (PCM) to change camshaft timing when the engine is running. The CMP actuator solenoid valve controls the oil flow that applies the pressure to advance or retard the camshaft. The PCM provides a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal for control of the CMP actuator solenoid.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
The PCM detects an open or a short in the CMP actuator solenoid control circuit.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL).
The PCM stores the conditions that were present when the DTC set as Freeze Frame data.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The PCM turns OFF the MIL on the third consecutive trip cycle during which the diagnostic has been run and the fault condition is no longer present.
A DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles have occurred without a fault.
A DTC can be cleared by using the scan tool Clear DTC Information function.
Remove the plastic top engine cover, the actuator is in the front, right (passenger side) of the cylinder head. Wires are black and red. Make sure the harness connector is fully seated on the actuator, no strain on the harness, no chafing of the wires.
Also, there's an oil filter in the actuator. To replace it, remove the plug from the end of the solenoid and then remove the filter.
and is it just a loose wire?
thx
Has anyone had this error or similar situation? What should I do to fix this? What could be wrong? Please help. Thanks.
you may have a bad sensor, or a wiring fault to the sensor. chase the whole wiring train, black/red, from the sensor as far as you can, make sure the connectors to the sensor are clean, and the wires are not melted together or to anything else. pull 'em apart and use high-temperature tape to fix any shorts that may exist, then find a way to re-run the wires so they don't get against hot metal and get hosed up again.
if this goes a long time without the fault, the error code is cleared in the computer. how long is plainly stated above in alcan's post from diagnostic sources. that should tell you it's an intermittent fault. betcha the cable runs near the air cleaner housing. you're pushing against a harness when you take that off, right? that's changing either the cable or the connection on the sensor, under that fancy plastic block on top of the engine.
-0-
either there is a short in the cable, or the connection to the sensor is loose. that's your end fix. how you get there without wrecking things is something you (I) would know if you (I) worked on these. the fancy plastic block is likely to need removal, and needs to be torqued to certain standards to avoid warping or cracking it on replacement. unknown if there is a gasket involved you'd have to replace.
if you are comfortable with this now, you can try doing it yourself. if not, print these tips, and take 'em with the car to your mechanic. if this was mine, and I plowed ahead, I'd also replace the tiny oil filter in the actuator Because I Can, and be done with the possibility I'd have to open it up again.
the light was off. i drove to a store. when i left, i had the a/c on. as i stopped to exit the parking lot to merge into traffic, my car died. i restarted and it died again. i turned off the a/c, and it stayed up but the check engine light was on again.
i drove it a few hundred miles like that. then the light went off. this time i didnt do a thing. it just went off by itself. oh, the weather was 20 degrees cooler.
is the sensor sensitive to starting temperature?
what does that plastic shield on my engine do? i dont have a torque rachet. i was just thinking i'd get it tight, then do a 1/4 turn more.
lacking fine answers to all these questions, and your lacking a torque wrench, I think the best plan is to have a mechanic correct it. there are lots of times I look at my service literature and say this is not my task. in those cases, I justify my manuals as insurance against having idiots work on my car :-D
could also be wiring to the sensor or the input network in the engine computer is Stuck Outta Luck, too, it would seem to me.
bottom line: don't waste money buying parts until you've checked them out. buy a manual first if you need to, or subscribe to alldata DIY, it's cheaper than playing parts roulette.
The only way you can reset the light is with a scantool. If the problem is gone, then the light will go out.
If there is a problem, the light is on. No problem, the light is off.
You need to have it scanned to find out what the trouble codes are.
Understand that if you are in an area where they have emissions testing and the light is on, you fail. No gray area. The check engine light on solid means an emission failure somewhere in the system and no EPA testing will allow the vehicle to pass without it being repaired.
Also, you should probably know that some emission failures can, over time, do some pretty severe damage to the engine.
Could it be a problem with the oil filter or something? I'm planning on bringing it into the shop tomorrow to be looked at, but I wanted to get some ideas so that I can better suggest the mech where to start looking.
Thanks
-menting
Which engine?
When the check engine light is flashing, it means a "catastrophic" failure. What that means is, some major component failed and the system sees it as an engine damaging problem.
The white smoke is either coolant or raw fuel.
I am betting on the latter.
The reason I am thinking this is that fuel in the oil would thin the oil to a point where it wouldn't be able to build decent oil pressure.
Check your oil and see if it smells like fuel.
If it doesn't, then I may be way off base.
If there is an autozone near you, then have it scanned to see what trouble codes are present.
If a P0300-P0304 code comes up, then one of the cylinders isn't firing. Raw fuel would be dumping in that cylinder and not being processed/fired.
Let us know what trouble codes you get.
But the check engine light only turns on when the A/C is on for about 10 min.
1) if this is for the oil control valve (OCV), what does the A/C have to do with it?
2) The Haynes manual says to clean the OCV filter. Is it easy to clean, or better just to buy a new filter?
Thx
-----------
DTC P1656
Circuit Description
The DTC P1656 Intake Camshaft Position (CMP) Actuator Solenoid Control Circuit diagnostic monitors the operation of the CMP actuator system. The CMP actuator system enables the powertrain control module (PCM) to change camshaft timing when the engine is running. The CMP actuator solenoid valve controls the oil flow that applies the pressure to advance or retard the camshaft. The PCM provides a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal for control of the CMP actuator solenoid.
Thanks for your input.
I don't really know what engine the 95 dodge neon has.
I took it in to the shop for it to be looked at Sat morning, and the engine light wasn't flashing anymore. The mechanic took a reading at the onboard computer, and he could only see the O2 sensor had died. There wasn't any other reading. So basically I spent 70 bucks for nothing. Right now the engine would still die whenever the car is at a stop or at a very low speed, so I have to keep one foot on the gas pedal at all times. Guess I'll have to take it in for a tuneup and see if they can find the problem then
I'll give you an update on what I found out.
Thanks again
-menting
Right now the engine would still die whenever the car is at a stop or at a very low speed, so I have to keep one foot on the gas pedal at all times.
If it is an automatic, then it is more than likely the Torque converter control solenoid.
Looking down on the engine from the fron, you should see a square green or blue connector on the transmission. Unplug it and test drive. If the stalling stops, then the converter solenoid is bad and needs replacing. Re-connect the solenoid and see about having it fixed.
Truck starting poor for approx 9 mos-not bad enough to worry, just not like it used to. Service Engine Light (SEL) came on. Pulling into the garage to replace spark plugs, the SEL started blinking (misfire). Plugs were changed-plugs looked good except cylinder #4?(second from front on right side of engine. Autozone scanned it and reset computer-tech said may have just needed new plugs. Drove 150 miles, SEL came back on. Also blinked when idling once. Scanned today, codes are: P0175 System too rich (bank 2) and P0300 Random/Multiple cylinder misfire detected.
Any tips or advice on where to start. My local dealer is not the greatest at troubleshooting problems, just replacing 02 sensors and keep selling parts until it finally is fixed.
Thanks in advance.