this morning i had a problem starting the car, the car finally started but there is a check engine light and rpm shows up very low. When you press on the accelator the rpm goes down first as if the car is going to turn off. There is a weird noise in the engine. Anyone has any ideas. I am planning to take it ot the mechanic but would like to know what the problem could be.
My 1999 Toyota corolla check engine light turned on for almost 3 months, get scanned with code P115: "engine coolant temerature circuitry malfunction." However, my engine temperature always stayed normal during the last three months. A local garage guy told me that it probably was the engine cooolant temperature sensor problem and he would replace one for me with $150. Should I just buy the sensor from Autozone and replace it by myself? It doesn't seem too hard to do it. Really appreciate if someone could give me some suggestion! Thanks!
my ply, breeze will die after it reaches normal operating temp. and no restart until cooldown , normally 15 to 30 min. i can only drive the car about 1.5 miles and then no start the car is a 1996 with 122000 miles. check engine light comes on .starts blinking then dies. two codes come up . one camshaft sensor , one ing. coil , or misfire, i cant remember the no. but i replaced these two items and still have the same codes comming up, is there a ASD A
Hello, Check Engine light comes on. Computer reads misfire in cylinder 3. I have changed the wires and plugs. The computer was reset and again the light comes on in about 150 miles with the same code. The car runs great other than this problem. Could you please give me other things to check. Thank you.
Hi,im starting to suspect i have a problem with my ECM especially with its relation to the TCM. It works ok when i turn the screw to get readings on the MIL but i suppose there's supposed to be an LCD blinking on the ECM also.There's no light on the ECM and i think it's affecting the transmission shifts.Just had the TCM replaced bcos it jerked while changing from 1 to 2.That stopped but now the trans changes pretty quick and lags after every shift plus the rpm drops drastically to 1000 after the third shift then starts to pick up speed again.How exactly can i tell if there's a problem with the ECM without trouble codes
Hello All.., I bought my camry 97 (~87k miles) used and maintaining it well. The car stopped all of a sudden on a 40mile road and the 'check engine' light started to glow, stearing became hard and had no control on the vehicle. After pulling over and after few minutes the car started back and had control on the stearing and was able to drive but the 'engine check' was still glowing. The mechanic says he has to put it on the ramp and do a full diagnostics to find the problem!.. Any one had this problem before ? Is this is only way to check for possible mechanical faults? Or just a sensor problem? Any suggestions would be welcome.... thanks, pet.b
Yep, welcome to the 21st century. You have to pull codes to diagnose the trouble. Since your engine stopped mid-stream in traffic, I rather doubt a 'sensor'. Sounds like a complete ignition failure or fuel delivery problem.
hi, i have a '91 mazda b2200 truck. the check engine light comes on and stays on for about 5 miles. it seems to be running fine. i've been looking for an inexpensive code reader ($30), but haven't found one for any mazda's. is there a way to pull codes for free, with a multi meter or something? if not, does anyone know of a reader that will work with that truck?
Truck just goes dead for no reason. Acts like it is not firing, or is not getting fuel. it'got a new tune up, plugs, wires, fliters, fuel and oil. It don't run hot are anything like that. It runs real good when it's running, but at times it will just die for no reason. Twetny or thirty minutes later it will start like it's brand new. And when you turn a cruve the CHECK ENGINE light will come on for a few seconds then goes off, thats not when it goes dead. It just happens out of the blue. If you have any idea what is happening here please let me know, because i don't have a clue. FORD TRUCKS RULE. thanks alot GEARJAMMER05
HELP!! What was the end result of your problem. I'm having the exact same thing with a 99 Venture I just bought. I'm also getting a PO449 code (Evap Purge/Vent Solenoid Circuit Condition) error AND have a gas gauge that can't secide if it's full or empty. What did you end up doing to resolve your vehicle?
Not sure how this forum works. I have a 2000 with the same exact problem you state. It's going into the shop tomorrow. Can you tell me what you had to do to resolve the problem?
About 2 months ago my CEL came on in my 1998 Honda DX with 90K miles. Fearing for my life I took it into a mechanic who said that my catalytic converter was blown and that it would cost over $750 to fix. I'm a young female completely ignorant about cars, so I took it to my father's mechanic to get a second opinion. He said that the cat was probably ok and that it could just be a loose oxygen sensor (the first mechanic cleared the computer and turned off the light), and that I should bring the car back in when the light comes back on. A couple weeks later it came back on, so I took it in and the mechanic said that the cylinders were misfiring, so I had the cables/wires, air filter, spark plugs, and a few other things replaced and had the engine tuned. 150 miles later the light came back on. The car has been driving perfectly the entire time. I'm going to take it to Autozone ASAP, but until then does anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
I bought a dodge laramie about a year ago. i have had a re-ac curing check engine light. I have gone to a mechanic it comes up as the 8th cylinder misfire. The mechanic said it could be something as simple as dirty gas. So I used some fuel injector cleaner. Engine light went off for a bit. When I sit at idle the engine bumps. The tachometer drops when this happens. It accelerates great!! I took it back to the mechanic because the light came back on. He hooked it back up. Same code showed up. He ran a can of fuel injector cleaner through it. The light shut off ran great. Now its back on. Now for an add on. I have had an oil change done twice in the past made a long drive. (3 hours) both ways. Checked the oil when I returned home. It took 3 quarts to show on the stick. No obvious visible signs of oil burning. No puffs of blue smoke. No puddles on the driveway. Is this a preamble to becoming a real burner?? Thanks for any help on either of these probs.
1996 nissan maxima se auto tranie shifting harsh code po745 line pressure problem. some say is at solenoid if so where ir it located is it the same called rev senser? boba76@netzero.net bob
My truck CEL came on so I took it to a mechanic who replaces the ox. sensor. The light came on again. After a while I spoke with another mechanic who said it's a 99% chance that it's the ox. sensor even though it was just replaced. I bought a new one online, replaced the other almost new one, CEL on again. If I shut off the truck and restart it, the light goes off for a few minutes. When the light is on, the truck runs a bit sluggish, but restart it, and it runs fine again. Any ideas since I don't think I'll replace the ox sensor this time. Thanks
It's often NOT the 02 sensor. That was not good advice, in terms of the odds. Just because the code says something about the 02 sensor doesn't mean you replace it. All that code means is that something is tweaking the 02 sensor circuit. So you are treating the symptom and not the disease I think. You need to diagnose those things that make an 02 sensor angry so to speak and give inacurate readings. Something else is going on.
Could be:
vacuum leak EGR leak excessive fuel pressure contamination of the 02 sensor from coolant or fuel additives or oil burning engine.
I was just wondering if you got the problem fixed and what it was? My car started doing the same thing today and i'm not sure if it was bad gasoline or what. Thanks for the info.
I started driving the car and the check engine light came on and the car started almost felt like gasping for gas. It jerk back and forth, but it only does it when you are first starting out. Could it be bad gasoline or something else?
-Sorry to hear about your CEL issue. You need to check your ehaust manifold for any cracks...apparently a fairly common failure part in the civic. A crack in the exhuast manifold will cause the sensor to read out of range, as it should, and turn the CEL on. I found this out the hard way...
My roomate has a 1998 Civic LX. Her check engine light came on a few weeks ago. :mad: I took it to Autozone and had the diagnostic run....the usual front bank O2 sensor. I ordered the part, as well as the special slotted socket for removal/replacement. I was looking around the sensor to make sure I had enough clearance for the tool when I thought I spotted a chip missing near the sensor. I remove the exhaust manifold shield, and discovered that the manifold was cracked right down the center...thus the bad reading...not to mention it explained the massive decrease in fuel efficiency.
I found a used manifold, and did the swap, and the car seems fine now. My mechanic told me to call American Honda just in case....apparently there are some recalls that you don't- find out about at the dealership. I am going to call on Monday. Their number is -1-800-999-1009. Also ask about any recalls or service bulletins. You will need your VIN number. Good luck...let me know if it works out for you!
EGR---exhaust gas recirulation valve. You can google it and learn how it works. If it's clogged or leaking it can throw off your 02 sensor and change its values.
Hi everyone I am looking for help with code p1540 abv. i checked all the vac lines and the tee fittings and the solinoid valves. i can't find a problem yet after about 15 mins of driving the tcs off and the tcs problem light come on. i can reset by rekeying. after the second time i get the check engine light. it happens about every 15 mins of driving . i also can make it happen if i drive at a steady speed then take my foot off the gas for a couple of seconds and then slowly press on the gas again . the light for tcs will come on. i do know i need a supercharger. it is full of oil but before i spend the money i want to know if the supercharger can make this problem thanks everyone ed
So my parents bought me this great looking car, only when they test drove it, the service engine light was on. The VW dealer that they bought it at said they'd fix it for free. So great, right? Well, I was driving it home from the dealer and the car was pulsing really bad and the service engine light came on. We took it back and they said they fixed it. We brought it home and it worked great (for a week) until today. While I was driving today, the service engine light popped on. Nothing seemed to be wrong with the car, it wasn't pulsing and it wasn't making any funny noises. I know this is probably pretty vague, but does anyone have any ideas? I would love to take it to the Saturn dealer right down the road instead of trekking across the twin cities to go back to the VW dealer who probably doesn't even know what they're doing but I don't want to spend an arm and a leg.
NO! Do NOT take it to another dealer! If you do, the VW dealer is completely legally off the hook to fix the car, as they can claim "someone else interfered with it", and they'd be right, too.
So have your folks or you take it back and tell them it's going to stay there until they fix it. If you get it back and it's not right, you go right back and park it in front of their driveway and toss them the keys again.
They are a VW dealer, they are supposed to know how to fix their own cars, and I'm sure Small Claims Court would agree with you.
Or if they can't fix it, have them "unwind the deal" and give your folks their money back.
Give them one more chance or ask for the deal to be unwound.
Hi, I have a problem with my 2000 Honda Accord V6 car. After a fuel emmisions test which the car passed, we fueled the car to full tank. After driving around for a bit, the check engine light came on. When the car reaches about half tank fuel the check engine light goes away and comes back on when the fuel level goes down further to about 1/3rd level. I am puzzled as to what might cause this problem. It happens consistently (we have since driven around in the car and refueled too). The car performance otherwise is good. Ive not had this problem with the car before in the car. The car has about 55K miles. Please advise on the best course of action. The Honda dealers want 90$ to diagnose the problem and then pay additional for parts. Can you give me an idea of what to look for to diagnose the problem and how to fix it please? Thanks!
Might be your gas cap. Try to tighten it as tight as it will go, or buy a new one and see what happens. I'm sorry but I don't know if on your car you have to reset the check engine light manually or if it will go out once the problem is corrected. Perhaps someone can advise us on that.
I have a question about the cam shaft sensor. Where is it???? I know its supposed to be where the distributor used to be on cars but we CAN NOT FIND IT! My 2001 taurus is running like crap and I need to know where to put this sensor since the scan showed this is what is needed.
Beats me. Maybe one of the techs that visit here can help us, or you can always ask the Ford parts department where it is located. Also the public library probably has a book for your car or a CD that will tell you.
Similar problem here- My 2000 Integra was stolen last year. The bastards bottomed out the exhaust header, which was replaced. This weekend the exhaust pipe broke right behind the resonator. I had the pipe (runs from the cat to muffler) replaced yesterday at Monro. This morning I was coming to work (about 5 miles on the new pipe) and revved the engine a bit... maybe 6 or 7K (8K red line). The check engine light came on, and a rev limiter immediately kicked in. Any thoughts? What did Monro do to my car?
"I need to know where to put this sensor since the scan showed this is what is needed"
No, it didn't. It retrieved a code which said there's a problem with the cam sensor CIRCUIT:
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
The scan tool hasn't been made yet that can determine that a component is defective. Might be a defective sensor, but could just as easily be a wiring harness or connector problem. Which engine does it have?
I did that last night after work. The code is P1259, VTEC System Malfunction. That explains what I thought was teh rev limiter- it was probably just the VTEC cutting out.
Since the code indicates symptoms, not necessarily the problem, I'm working on the theory that this is related to the problem I had with the exhaust. For reference, the pipe broke (fully) while I was on a fairly long road trip, and I had to drive almost 200 miles before I was able to get it fixed. What are the likely problems this might have caused which would shut down the VTEC system?
check engine I have a '99 subaru legacy outback wagon with 77,000+ miles. The check engine light comes on today for no apparent reason ( at least none that is visible to my untrained eye). The car appears to be running fine. Any ideas? I'm a little paranoid about driving the car while the light is on.
As you should be. You'll have to have the codes read. It could be many many things that trip a code, from minor to very serious. If you get the codes come back and let us know what they say.
Wife drove truck to work. Time to go home and check eng light is on. The truck ran okay but consumed alot of gas (1/4 tank in 30 miles). Took the truck to the parts store and had OBD2 check done. Code P1135 came up with the words fuel air metering under it on the print out. Question is which fuel metering component? I think more than one exists on this engine. It is an 02 taco 3.4L V-6. Any help would be appreciated as the only trust worthy mechanics around here charge 75 and up an hour. Help!!!
Mazda 626 LX V6 - My 'check engine' light was on for a while, I thought it was the gas cap as I found out TOO LATE that it does this when not tightened properly ... anyway, reading this forum gave me several options to try and fix it myself. The first one worked! Just taking off the NEG bettary terminal did it. (It needed a bit of cleaning anyway) So thanks to all you smart guys for sharing your knowledge, it is much apreciated. Masx
I have a 1995 toyota celica. The CEL came on awhile ago but the car ran fine, suddenly over night the car took three times to start and hold idle. Then and now for two weeks will only rev up to exactly 3500 rpms. Diagnostic testing was attempted but the computer will not send a message????? I was told that the computer might have a fail safe mode that will cause it to not allow the car to rev any higher???? I gave the car a tune up and also changed the throttle position sensor, to no avail. Basically I don't know what to do and don't want to take it to the garage because I feel without the computer sending a message they are as in the dark as I am which will lead to just changing to a new computer which will be costly. Anygood advise????
I have a 2001 Honda Civic LX. The check engine light was on and the computer said that the O2 sensor was bad. I replaced it today but the check engine light is still on. How do I reset the check engine light?
I have a 1999 Honda Civic. Replaced my O2 sensor and the check engine light didn't go off. I unplugged the battery (let it sit for just a couple minutes), plugged the battery back up, and the light was off. If that doesn't work then you need to take it someplace to have the clear the codes. Advanced Auto Parts will do it for free (at least where I live). Good Luck!
Also, if you have a stock stereo, there may be some kind of anti-theft mechanism where you have to enter a code. If your radio requires it, you will have to re-enter the code after you plug the battery back up. Otherwise your radio will be non-operational.
the engine check light comes on occasionally when towing due to transmission overheat. Is there any way to turn it off without going to repair shop and getting scanner connected at a great cost each time?
Hi. New to forum and had some questions after reading all the posts. Seems the CEL is a common problem for Milly owners. I have a 2000 S that I bought used with 43k miles. I'm almost at 51k and today on the highway while on cruise control at about 65 mph the CEL came on.
Just returned from Auto Zone with two codes.
1. P1601 which I'm told is a manufacturer's (dealer) code and will have to contact them.
2. P0154 which points to a host of possibilities.
According to the Millenia forum, it appears likely to be oxygen or knock sensor as seems to be the case with other owners, do these have to be replaced--as they appear from other posts to be rather pricey! Any chance it is simply the spark plugs that need to be replaced? I suspect they've never been touched by previous owner.
And by the way, anyone know a good Mazda mechanic in the Rochester, NY area?
I'm very anxious about my 4 cy camry. This car has been weak for sometime when it is started and when it is running. and it shakes constantly at low-mid speed, stumbles when trying to speed up. I saw light oil stain on the ground last winter. I'm afraid of pressing fuel pedal when I did press it at about 30mph, the CEL was on after 1-2 minutes and stays there. Also, I'm not sure if it is related: every time when I start the car, a circuit sign on dashboard lights up for about 10 seconds then goes off. My battery doesn't hold power as well, it is less than 1.5 years old. what will you think the problem would be? Thanks a lot!!!! Jane
I have a 2001 Accord, it has 49,000 miles on it. I had my 45k mi maintenance done last month. Now my check engine light is on. It came on last month, but went away on its on. I was told it was probably the gas cap not being tightened.
It is back on now, it stayed on for 2 days went off and now has been on for about 3 days. Now the CEL is back on, I went to the AutoZone near my house, and they gave me a code of P1259. The guy looked it up and he mentioned something about the "Kill switch, this happens when you get in an accident, the car is suppose to shutdown." I have not been in an accident and I have gotten the car maintenanced on schedule.
If anyone has an knowledge of the code or of how serious it is I would appreciate it. I know I am going to have to pay $100 for the dealer just to "diagnoise" it.
Comments
Thanks
A local garage guy told me that it probably was the engine cooolant temperature sensor problem and he would replace one for me with $150.
Should I just buy the sensor from Autozone and replace it by myself? It doesn't seem too hard to do it. Really appreciate if someone could give me some suggestion!
Thanks!
Check Engine light comes on. Computer reads misfire in cylinder 3. I have changed the wires and plugs. The computer was reset and again the light comes on in about 150 miles with the same code. The car runs great other than this problem. Could you please give me other things to check.
Thank you.
I bought my camry 97 (~87k miles) used and maintaining it well. The car stopped all of a sudden on a 40mile road and the 'check engine' light started to glow, stearing became hard and had no control on the vehicle. After pulling over and after few minutes the car started back and had control on the stearing and was able to drive but the 'engine check' was still glowing. The mechanic says he has to put it on the ramp and do a full diagnostics to find the problem!.. Any one had this problem before ? Is this is only way to check for possible mechanical faults? Or just a sensor problem? Any suggestions would be welcome....
thanks,
pet.b
thanks for your time,
chuck
Thanks!
Could be:
vacuum leak
EGR leak
excessive fuel pressure
contamination of the 02 sensor from coolant or fuel additives or oil burning engine.
I was just wondering if you got the problem fixed and what it was? My car started doing the same thing today and i'm not sure if it was bad gasoline or what. Thanks for the info.
Todd
My roomate has a 1998 Civic LX. Her check engine light came on a few weeks ago. :mad: I took it to Autozone and had the diagnostic run....the usual front bank O2 sensor. I ordered the part, as well as the special slotted socket for removal/replacement. I was looking around the sensor to make sure I had enough clearance for the tool when I thought I spotted a chip missing near the sensor. I remove the exhaust manifold shield, and discovered that the manifold was cracked right down the center...thus the bad reading...not to mention it explained the massive decrease in fuel efficiency.
I found a used manifold, and did the swap, and the car seems fine now.
So have your folks or you take it back and tell them it's going to stay there until they fix it. If you get it back and it's not right, you go right back and park it in front of their driveway and toss them the keys again.
They are a VW dealer, they are supposed to know how to fix their own cars, and I'm sure Small Claims Court would agree with you.
Or if they can't fix it, have them "unwind the deal" and give your folks their money back.
Give them one more chance or ask for the deal to be unwound.
No, it didn't. It retrieved a code which said there's a problem with the cam sensor CIRCUIT:
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
The scan tool hasn't been made yet that can determine that a component is defective. Might be a defective sensor, but could just as easily be a wiring harness or connector problem. Which engine does it have?
Since the code indicates symptoms, not necessarily the problem, I'm working on the theory that this is related to the problem I had with the exhaust. For reference, the pipe broke (fully) while I was on a fairly long road trip, and I had to drive almost 200 miles before I was able to get it fixed. What are the likely problems this might have caused which would shut down the VTEC system?
So thanks to all you smart guys for sharing your knowledge, it is much apreciated.
Masx
Also, if you have a stock stereo, there may be some kind of anti-theft mechanism where you have to enter a code. If your radio requires it, you will have to re-enter the code after you plug the battery back up. Otherwise your radio will be non-operational.
Just returned from Auto Zone with two codes.
1. P1601 which I'm told is a manufacturer's (dealer) code and will have to contact them.
2. P0154 which points to a host of possibilities.
According to the Millenia forum, it appears likely to be oxygen or knock sensor as seems to be the case with other owners, do these have to be replaced--as they appear from other posts to be rather pricey! Any chance it is simply the spark plugs that need to be replaced? I suspect they've never been touched by previous owner.
And by the way, anyone know a good Mazda mechanic in the Rochester, NY area?
Appreciate any and all help/suggestions.
I'm afraid of pressing fuel pedal when I did press it at about 30mph, the CEL was on after 1-2 minutes and stays there.
Also, I'm not sure if it is related: every time when I start the car, a circuit sign on dashboard lights up for about 10 seconds then goes off. My battery doesn't hold power as well, it is less than 1.5 years old.
what will you think the problem would be?
Thanks a lot!!!!
Jane
I have a 2001 Accord, it has 49,000 miles on it. I had my 45k mi maintenance done last month. Now my check engine light is on. It came on last month, but went away on its on. I was told it was probably the gas cap not being tightened.
It is back on now, it stayed on for 2 days went off and now has been on for about 3 days. Now the CEL is back on, I went to the AutoZone near my house, and they gave me a code of P1259. The guy looked it up and he mentioned something about the "Kill switch, this happens when you get in an accident, the car is suppose to shutdown." I have not been in an accident and I have gotten the car maintenanced on schedule.
If anyone has an knowledge of the code or of how serious it is I would appreciate it.
I know I am going to have to pay $100 for the dealer just to "diagnoise" it.