Check Engine light

civic_girl

I have a civic lsi, oldie from 1995. The engine light came on about 6 months ago on a long journey, so i did what it said in the manual and stopped, turn off the engine and turned it on again, stayed off . but soon it came on again. So with the help of a flattened out paper clip i found out it was a problem with my oxygen sensor by plugging it into the c.p.u thingy. But at m.o.t time they said there was nothing wrong with it and it was just clogged with soot.So for a while it didnt come on again. But on that same journey the other day it came on again. This time the code was different. But i can't find out what the codes mean again. Found it on the net but it has now disappeared. Sure it is not the oxygen sensor again. Does anyone know where i can find out what a code 1 means?? please. it is really annoying me. Car still runs like a dream other than that.

alcan

http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/

dilly

I changed the alternator started up engine light came on,
truck stalled a couple of times stayed running after I hit
the gas a few times.Pulled the EFI fuse left it out about
an hour light came back on,now it stays running at one point I hit the gas and the light went out but came back on.I'm new to Toyota's so any help would be great.

flytedhy

Anyone bought one recently and have input on it or have one for sale(if thats even allowed here).

silverbackra

I have a 1990 oldsmobile calais that runs great. But it will flash service engine soon light along with the temp light and shut off intermittently. Sometimes i will drive this car for 2 - 3 weeks without a problem, then all of a sudden it will shut off for now apparent reason. My mechanic has replace the throttle position sensor. But the problem still exist. Can somebody help me ? I am at my wits end

milleniasmoov

Edster3, I'm about to purchase a 95 Mazda Millenia and the current owner went to Autozone and had a guy pop an O2 sensor on to turn off the check engine light. Now the vehicle won't start. Sounds like your situation. Have you received any soulutions to correct the problems? Anyone else out there have any good news to report?

stcroix

i have a 95 blazer 4.3l vortec engine. The service engine soon light comes on all the time, it runs [non-permissible content removed] and sucking up the gas. There is no power to the data link to retrieve trouble code, I have replaced the fuel filter, pcv valve, plugs/wires, dist cap, changed oil,new oxygen sensor, air filter, and it still runs rough. What am i doing wrong?

wayne4141

sayes to change gas different brand?
is their a reset button for this vortec 6 4.3

catcrazy

Hello,
I have a Honda Odyssey 97 and I am having the same problem as you with the soot. Mechanics say they have never seen anything like it. Have you had your issue resolved ?
Joanna

the_sandwedge

I had the same thing happen to me tonight. Right before the light came on, I noticed my engine temp was running on the cool side. Not sure if that is part of the problem or not. I called the Volvo dealer in town and told them about the light that isn't in my manual and I successfully stumped them. They're supposed to call me tomorrow with an answer as to what the light is and what it indicates.

joee2

My 1996 Mazda Millenia check engine light was on for 3 years with an EGR code...either the EGR valve, EGR solenoid, or EGR solenoid valve were bad...or so I thought....Then I read a post by a guy with the same problem...he just got a can of carb cleaner and cleaned out the intake manifold, so last weekend I tried it and it worked! Just remove the air cleaner, then carefully unbolt the throttle body from the intake manifold. First clean the crud buildup from the throttlebody's butterfly valve. But most importantly, look inside the intake manifold. There are 2 holes in the bottom near the throttlebody. Make sure they are clear and gunk free. Mine were completly plugged up with crud. As soon as I cleaned these out, my check engine light finally went off!

steve_d_c

Have an 02 yukon with 70k miles,SES light stays on. It only comes on in the winter time. I have had a new fuel filter,fuel pump, fuel injectors, plugs and wires, and a new battery and still the dealership cant get the light to go off, they reset the light but it comes on most of the time before i get off the lot anyone have any other ideas that these people dont have? Tired of dumping money into the problem and never getting it fixed. Now they are saying it is my oxygen sensor and want to replace it. Any ideas?

alcan

Which diagnostic trouble code #'s have been retrieved? Can't do anything without that info.

steve_d_c

Sorry forgot to give the codes they are P0171,P0174,P0300,U1064. Thanks for any help.

alcan

P0171 = Fuel Trim System Lean (Bank 1)
P0174 = Fuel Trim System Lean (Bank 2)
P0300 = Random, Multiple Misfire

THe first two codes indicate the engine is running lean, which can cause the third code from a lean mixture misfire. Highly unlikely that both upstream O2 sensors would sign off at the same time. First thing I'd do it check fuel pressure. I know you've had the pump and filter replaced, but parts can be defective out of the box. Next, verify there are no vacuum leaks allowing unmetered air to enter the engine, and that the mass airflow sensor is operating within specs. For chasing down vacuum leaks, a smoke machine hooked up to the intake works wonders. If your dealership doesn't have one, find a shop which does.

U1064 = Loss of Communications with Body Control Module

This one might be a fluke, various reasons why it might set. I usually clear this code then see if it resets.

pmc1

I was having the same problem and they finally figured out that the fuel pressure regulator was bad. My blazer has been running great since that was fixed 6 months ago.

steve_d_c

Thanks for the help, held off on the O2 sensors being replaced and had the throttle body cleaned and since then have had no problems.

len11

98 Ford Contour SE 2.5L V6 Check engine light first came on 1 year ago. Would go on and off at first, sometimes weekly or monthly. Never had a performance problem. Vehicle was under warranty so I took it to ford dealer #1 and they told me cracked manifold was the code. Fixed it and 2 weeks later light came back on. Went to another ford dealer(didn't trust first dealer)and they told me oxygen sensor was the code. They fixed it. 3 weeks later light back on. Took vehicle to a third party and they told me catalytic converter needs to be adjusted for 180 bucks. I didn't have the adjustment done. Now the vehicle only starts sporadically. Vehicle will run for 2 weeks just fine. Turn it off and try to start it 1 hour later and it only cranks, doesn't fire up. Leave it sit for a day or two and it fires up and runs fine. 1 week or two days later same thing will not fire up just cranks. Basically I have a vehicle that starts when it wants to and no one can figure out why.

alcan

You're welcome. Keep us posted as to whether the light stays off.

alcan

I've never heard of "adjusting" a catalytic converter, but in any event it's covered by waranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles:
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/warr95fs.txt

Which trouble codes were retrieved? If the codes had been cleared, AutoZone will retrieve any current ones no charge.

len11

alcan The report states: Diagnostic level #1 and found code PO420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1. Recommend reprogram the powertrain control module. The bigger problem right now is that the vehicle will not start only cranks. Could the control module be the cause?
I thought 180 bucks to reprogram the module was a little exspensive. The mechanic wants to reprogram module to latest calibration using WDS release B32.5 or higher.

len11

12-30-05 This morning car started like nothing wrong. It has been raining the last three days so maybe its the moisture causing the problem? What should be changed besides plugs and wires?
Thanks Len

camp1

The check engine light has come on. I had the codes read and was told it was a sensor down stream from the catalytic converter. I found a sensor in the tail pipe just pass the catalytic converter. There has been no change in the operation of the car so I am not worried about that, however I did try to remove the sensor but was unable to do so. My question is "if I just cut the wires to the sensor will the check engine light go out???"

alcan

No. What codes were retrieved?

sethld

Can anybody tell me what exhaust gas recirculation circuit malfunction means. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

alcan

Make, model, year, engine?

bmirage

My service engine light has been coming off and on for over a year now with the troubleshooting code of P0172 - Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 1. I am suppose to get the car inspected this month. The light has stayed out for the past 4 days before it came back on this morning. Is this something that can be taken care of without going to a repair shop and what exactly fixes this problem?

camp1

Sorry I don't know what codes were retrieved, they only said it was the sensor downstream from the catalytic converter. I did find a sensor just pass the catalytic converter in the exhaust pipe but could not remove it or the wires going to it.
Because it has not effected the operation of the car I was in hopes I could just cut the wires going to the sensor to put out the light and not have to spend money trying to replace the sensor.

chua-san

Hi,

I just came back from Autozone about my G20's engine light. The reader showed code P1400. I surfed the internet and this code means EGRC - Solenoid Valve for Infiniti vehicles. Have anyone experienced this issue in the past, and what do I need to do in order to resolve this issue. Thank you for your help

stubborn1

98 Chevy Prizm 1.8L 5 spd

I hooked up my scanner this weekend and pulled the following codes:

P0304 - cylinder 4 misfire
P0300 - random/multiple cylinder misfire
P0103 - mass or volume air flow circuit high input

I've been having a strange hesitation problem lately with my Prizm. The car will miss and bog down when trying to moderately accelerate between 1800 and 3200 rpms. First thing I figured was bad plugs or wires, but that wasn't it. Some things I noticed:

1. Doesn't happen under light acceleration
2. Doesn't happen when vehicle is cold - only after warmed up
3. When its missing, I can clutch the vehicle and rev thru the rpm range with no problems. The problem only seems to happen under load

I'm stumped on this one. Anyone have advice on what to check?

Thanks

meblahu

I own a 2001 Integra and it was in an accident several months back. My front bumper was hit. Just recently, my check engine light came on and my A/C stopped working along with my rear defroster. Any ideas? Help!!!

alcan

If the signal from the mass airflow sensor is out range it can cause a lean air/fuel mixture which could cause the misfire codes. First to do is troubleshoot the P0103 code. Look for any wiring or connector problems between the MAF and the engine computer. If ok, try tapping on the MAF (don't pound on it) with a screwdriver handle with the engine idling. Sometimes a defective MAF will cause a stumble when tapped. If still ok, time to take it to a shop with a scanner to check the MAF input to the engine computer. BTW, does this car have an aftermarket oiled air filter?

alcan

Sounds almost like a loose ground wire problem but step #1, always, is to retrieve any stored diagnostic trouble codes. AutoZone will do it no charge.

jhart1

My tranny mechanic said that some mass air flow sensors can be removed from the air inlet and GENTLY dis-assembled and cleaned. Apparently they can get crudded up.

stubborn1

Stock air filter on the car.

I was looking to pull the MAF and clean the contacts , but I did a little more homework and found out that the Prizm/Corolla's around this year don't have a MAF sensor. They use input from the MAP sensor combined with input from another sensor (forgot which one).

My scan tool came with software to monitor sensor readings. The readings for the MAP sensor all stayed in the "green" range while accelerating/decelerating (6 at idle and 27 at hwy speed). I'm not sure what else to check at this point.

wtc1

The "Service engine soon" light has come on and gone off a few times. When hooked up to the diagnostic machine, it shows a "Cam Shaft Sensor" problem (@ 2 different shops). The normal mechanic says there is no "Cam Shaft Sensor" on the car. They suggest it to be a wiring and plug problem (Tune-up) or an "ignition Module" problem. The car seems to run fine and only has 40,000 miles on it. Has anyone else had this problem? How can the machine indicate a "Cam Shaft Sensor" problem if there isn't a "Cam Shaft Sensor?"

alcan

It doesn't have one. Saturn uses #4 spark plug wire for the cam reference. Usually means it's due for plug wires.

stubborn1

Just a follow up:

Pulled the codes again after a week and I got all of the same codes plus P1400 - TPS ground/no voltage reading. I'm going to replace the throttle position sensor. Seems to make sense that this could be the problem from the symptoms I'm having.

edh4

I have an F-150 that had P0306 code faults (cylinder 6 misfire). After resetting the fault code it would drive for hours and sometimes a day before the check engine light would come back on. Always with the same P0306 code. I swapped the spark plug and spark plug wire with no change. I noticed my battery positive terminal had a lot of corrosion so I cleaned it up and surprisingly the check engine light did not come on again for over a week. My battery had never given me any indication it was weak...vehicle always started within seconds of turning the key. On a hunch, I replaced the battery and my problem appears to have gone away. I have been driving for over a month now with the check engine light not comming on...and yes ... I did check to ensure the light was still working. I can't explain why the battery swap worked, but it appears to have fixed my problem.

sky23213

My 2001 Galant is just under 100K. While driving at about 60 mph with the Cruise on, I heard a low booming sound from the engine, the car slowed about 5 mph and the "Service Engine Soon" Light came on. The day before the car was in for an oil change, and also the engine was degreased (washed) for the purposes of detecting a supposed oil leak (I haven't seen anything under the car so far though, but I heard the service advisor advise the same thing another customer during a previous visit ). Car runs just fine, but I plan ot visiting a dealer this time. Any ideas what might have happened? Thanks

alcan

Another quick check if it's setting a P0341 code. Take a look at the ignition coil/ignition module assembly and make sure there's no corrosion under the module mount where it attaches. Could prevent a good ground of the module and cause the code to set.

cyntillating

My engine misses(pauses or hiccups)intermittently, has lost power once and has stalled out completely twice - all during extreme cold weather (-20 Celcius. Rotor,plugs, wires, distributor assy have all been replaced. Codes say multiple problems ie: ignition reference, knock sensor and two others I can't remember. Can anyone help? It's getting very expensive.

cwmecklem

My "service engine soon" light kept coming on my BMW M3. The dealership determined it to be a faulty Mass Air Flow sensor. Since the replacement of the MAF sensor it feels like the I've lost 50 horse power! Any ideas??

jneal

"I've never heard of "adjusting" a catalytic converter"

Obviously you didn't see me "adjust" one with a sledgehammer on 86 Ford p/u after it drove me nuts for a couple of months. Sledgehammer sometimes works better than nerve pills!!!!!

cacarroll

I have a 97 cirrus and the check engine light is on. I coded it and it came back as P0455. EVAP Emissions Control Sys. Leak ( Large ) When I went to the book to check the code it said EVAP System Gross Leak. Any information on this would be appreciated. I also have a power steering problem that when I turn the wheel you can feel a lot of chatter in the wheel. I checked the fluid level and it was good. I am suspecting a bad pump. Any information on this would be appreciated.

Thank You
Charlie Carroll

discoverybird

Just got confirmation that the P0304 fault code is 99% of the time due to a battery needing replaced and is recommended replaced with a 800 CCR Interstate. The service manager at Bellevue, WA dealership gave up the info.

bacdocjl

Has anyone had a problem with this code on a 2000 a6 2.7t. It is the secondary air for bank 1. The combi valve was replaced all vacuum lines checked and passed the readiness test. A week later the same code plus a cat code, after a reset the light came back on with no cat code but the p1423 again. My mechanic is stumped!! This has been going on for 6 months. Recent tune up at 60k, car runs great.

dunut

How I fixed P0172?

The MIL turned on after my car started loosing power, sort of intermittent run and some time when not in gear (standard transmission) the engine went off.
Reading the code foud P0172. In order to fix it, checked the following:

disconnect MAF (no change)
Spray water vapours to the ignition wires and found sparks between wires and between wires and engine's body. A friend told me about this method.

After replacing the ignition wires everything went to normal.

Hope this will help others, before buting any parts check yje ignition wires.

ural9982

I have Honda Accord 2003. Couple days ago my Check Engine light was on. But I have not seen any more specific changes. The car was droving perfectly. I delivered my car to the Honda dialer for diagnostics. They took care about it and them told me that during the testing process car computer module was broken and I even could not start the car. They insisted that it was not their fault and the reason is just in poor quality of the module. They wanted me to pay about $700 to replace the module. I am wondering if they told me the truth. If it was possible that the module was broken exactly during the diagnostic procedure and dealership is not responsible for it?

art97

I have a 97' Express van with a 5.7 liter, About 6 months ago my mil light came on and a scan said it was a o2 sensor, I replaced the sensor and it was ok for about 6 weeks and it did it again, the scan said the o2 sensor and a misfire on the #7 cylinder, again i replaced the sensor and this time the spark plugs, and the wires are new, it happened again, so I need to figure out what else would be causing the o2 sensor and the #7 misfire to go bad. Any ideas? thanks