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Check Engine light

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Comments

  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    would you have a copy of the wiring diagram?
    Have your mechanic email me, my email is in my profile.
    I have the diagrams and diagnostic chart uploaded to the web and can give him the link to them.

    Also, what is the voltage of the wire going into the idle cylnoid supposed to be?
    Well, its a little more complicated than measuring the voltage to the control valve. You see, you need a test cable and you check milliAmps. He'll see when he looks at the diagnostic chart.
    And, is the unit, negative operate? or positive operate? by the computer? (questions from mechanic).
    It gets its signal from the ECM (or in Mercedes case, they call it and EEC electronic engine control).
  • jmhollisjmhollis Member Posts: 1
    I get a code 171 (system too lean) when idling with the A/C on for several minutes. No major changes recently - where do you start to discover the root cause? The car is a 2002 Corolla with 105000 miles and up to date maintenance...
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Member Posts: 22,559
    My experience with the check engine light is that it is useful when used properly. By that I mean you have to have a human with the skills to interpret the codes as well as read them.

    Years ago the light came on in my Chevy. I took it to my regular shop where they pulled a code that said I had a bad torque converter ($1500 repair). As I shook my head the grizzled old mechanic walked over looked into the engine bay and said, "you got a loose wire down there". He connected the wire, the light went out and the torque converter worked well for the next 10 years.

    2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible

  • scorched03scorched03 Member Posts: 4
    have a 98 maxima w/ 13000. kbb is around 4-6K. dealer is wanting 800-1000 to replace the ECU, which was damaged by flood damage.

    see very little on replacing ECUs. does it cause any further damage if replaced?

    the engine light came on, then every other light did too, then the engine sputtered and car just died, but was able to restart. am so confused on what to do: replace the ecu or safer to buy another car?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I've never had flood damage in one of my vehicles, but from what I understand it......the water can cause corrosion in electrical wires for months/years to come. If this was me, I'd be getting rid of the vehicle as soon as possible. I think whoever owns this vehicle will be fighting problems forever.

    I think the hard part of this will be, do you just take the whole loss now and unload the car as-is for whatever any will give for it (which may be nothing with flood damage)......or do you spend another 1K plus, in the hopes that you can fix the problem, but then I think you wouldn't be sure you could fix it for 1K and you don't know how much more you'd get for a flood damaged vehicle anyhow.

    Is this covered by insurance? If so, take the money and run as fast as you can.
  • scorched03scorched03 Member Posts: 4
    its not really flood damage. the frustrating thing was that the flood damage isnt really flood damange. it from leaking water from a windshield or door w/ insufficient sealing. that's freaking annoying. but it appears that only the ECU is the main piece at the moment.

    only front floor areas affected by water. as it is the car is undrivable since it stalls, smokes and is useless. need to get it fixed to leave the lot.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Oh I see, that is totally different. It's not that all of the wiring got soaked.

    Have you considered the ECU from a wrecked vehicle? Not sure that would work logistically since it's already at a repair shop, and your options would be to either let them fix it with a new part or tow it out of there.......in the hopes that a used part would fix it.
  • tony12345tony12345 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 1995 Infinity G20 with the check-engine light on. In addition, it has a few stored codes (P1400, P0505 are just a few). My engine has over 140,000 miles on it. I noticed that a lot G20 owners may have the same problem. I have a theory to the problem. After
    checking and replacing a few parts, my CEL light is still on. So my theory is this: after the vehicle reaches 100,000+ the computer is pre-programmed to turn the CEL light on and remain on so that Infiniti owners bring in their Infiniti cars back to the dealership to have the CEL light turned-off. Believe me when I say that I checked everything. I have over 20+ years of diagnosing and repairing cars, which includes both domestics and imports.
    So, if you or someone you know owns a 1990-1997 Infiniti G20 and have the CEL light on with the mileage over 100,000, then let me know because I may file a class action lawsuit against Infiniti for this type of problem.
  • tony12345tony12345 Member Posts: 9
    Hi there,

    I had the same problem (code) and your egr solenoid valve is located on this 1994 infinity 20 is under the intake manifold. It is attached to a bracket near the starter. It has two vacuum hoses going to it and also a two wire connector. You have to purchase this part at the dealer only because you cannot get it after-market. It should only cost about $20-30 bucks. Hope this info helps.
  • bargilbargil Member Posts: 2
    How did you reset the "Engine check" light ?
  • tony12345tony12345 Member Posts: 9
    Just drive your vehicle to your local auto parts store (for example AutoZone) and the person behind the counter can use the scan tool to reset the "Check Engine" light at no charge. I do not know if there is an AutoZone near you. PepBoys can do the same. Hope this info helps. In addition, you can also disconnect the battery (any cable can do) for anywhere 10-30 minutes and then re-connect the cable. See if the light goes off. If not, then you have to use a scanner to reset the light. The cable trick only works on some cars.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Advance Auto also does it for me. They read the codes and will reset if I ask them to.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • sidharthasidhartha Member Posts: 1
    Last week on a highway the check engine light of my Honda civic hatchback 1990 turned on as I was driving at 50 mph. Seeing this I pulled out of the highway and stopped the engine. After a while I started my engine again and found out that the check engine light was not on anymore. I checked the engine oil and coolant and found no problem with them. The engine temperature was also normal. After that day I only drove in town and the check engine light never showed up again. I still don't understand what was the problem. My car has 136,000 miles on it and I regularly perform checkups.
    Could anybody help me understand whats going on?
  • gexdragongexdragon Member Posts: 4
    How to turn off the Subaru (or....???) “check engine light” due to uncertain recurrent causes that prove to be non-serious but costly (e.g. frequent solenoid replacements etc.)?
    One way (tipped off by a certain Joe in cars.com with proper disclaimers of course) is to disconnect and reconnect the right [red ( neg?)] pole of the battery (in Subaru, after putting ignition key in run position before reconnecting to avoid the alarm).
    In my case, I had the problem three times. The Subaru Garage replaced minor but costly "emissions" related equipment but had found nothing major. The second time it happened was just after I filled the gas tank and, funny enough, one day after a $300 bill for nothing. I thought it might be gas cap (a loose one can cause the light to go off). Then I read a bundle of articles blaming a particular gas retailer for so-called "bad gas". Then I suspected the problem. My own guess is that it has nothing to do with retailer A or B, but rather the recent increases in the gasoline/ethanol mix which may vary. Somehow, the Subaru (or...???) "computer" does not seem to understand (or like) the cleaner fuel blends of ethanol (ethyl alcohol). In Brazil they call it simply "alcool" (without the "h" and the driver jokingly says: “...30 liters for the car and one for me”.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Most auto parts stores will scan your engine for codes if the "check engine" light comes on. For free. Plus they reset the light. This way you have the code number and determine if it needs immediate action.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    My own guess is that it has nothing to do with retailer A or B, but rather the recent increases in the gasoline/ethanol mix which may vary.

    Most vehicles built after 2003 are equipped with sensors that monitor the fuel type. Which is why most can run E-85 or straight gasline with minimal performance decrease.
    Note that I didn't say minimal economy decrease. ;)

    Also, just an FYI.
    Not all vehicles can be reset by disconnecting the battery cables. Some vehicles retain the memory regardless of whether there is a power loss or not.
    And some vehicles will actually log a trouble code if you remove the battery cables.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Is the Suburu in question a car that can run E-85? I heard a car technician talking about how they're getting some cars now that won't run because E-85 has been put into them. The location of the pump and the low price attract people who don't realize it's a different alcohol than the up to 10% ethanol we have been given. They pump it and don't make it too far before the car quits running. In fact he offered many gallons of it they have stored at his business that they've pumped out of cars with that problem.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • srttguysrttguy Member Posts: 1
    Guys I'm stuck... I've got a '05 Civic EX with 21k on it. Now the check engine light comes on the moment I start it up, a green flashing light next to "D" Drive appears and she clunks going into Drive. None of the other Park, Neutral, Reverse etc make a noise but Drive does!
    I checked all fluids etc... everything appears to be fine, what gives? :cry:
  • msbunnie1msbunnie1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi would anyone know why all the warning lights came on in a 92 Trooper. I had the air conditioner running all day then it stop working and the, brake, battery, oil and check transmission lights came on and stayed on. What can be the problem because the truck still runs good. :confuse:
  • msbunnie1msbunnie1 Member Posts: 2
    I like to know if anyone would know why the warning signals( O2, brakes, battery, fluids, gas, and check transmission) signals all came on at the same time without any warning that something was wrong. Like I said before the Trooper still runs good without any stalling, :confuse:
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    you have a transmission issue. get your codes read.
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    sounds like your ignition switch to me
  • twest01twest01 Member Posts: 10
    I would suspect a bad transmission.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    You are still under warranty. Take to the dealer!
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    That would depend on his mileage.
    It may not be still under warranty.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Original post stated 2005 Civic with 21k miles... Last I knew Honda offers a 3yr/36k miles bumper to bumper warranty. 2005 model most likely came out in September 2004 (normal Honda timetable).
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    I missed the 21k part.
    Sometimes that happens when it is late and I don't take the time to read the fine print.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Don't worry we all mis-read post every now and again.
  • alpinelabalpinelab Member Posts: 5
    what might be the cause if your engine light oomes on and the car suddenly stops running. it will turn over but wont start back up. might it be one of the sensors. is there a common one that goes bad or hard to tell.
  • alpinelabalpinelab Member Posts: 5
    the alternator is ok the starter is ok already tried changin the coil pack thats ok might it be the crank sensor or what any ideas anyone. help much apprechiated ..
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Well, the check engine light came on, because the engine shut down. You have to find the cause of that.
    Did you check to see what trouble codes it had?
    YOU can pull the trouble codes here.

    But have you checked to see if you have spark?
    Do you have fuel to the injector?
    Does it have compression?

    Oh yeah, does this thing have an engine? It would sure be nice to know which engine it has.
    My crystal ball is broken, so you have to help me out here.
  • alpinelabalpinelab Member Posts: 5
    well the engine is a 3litre and yes it has spark and yes its gettin fuel and yes it has compression and i think theres more broken than just your crystal ball... but thx for the pull the trouble codes..
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    i think theres more broken than just your crystal ball
    You'll have to forgive me, I'm kind of dense, was that an insult?

    Well, I can see where this is gonna go.
    That's ok.

    If you have spark, compression and fuel it should start or at least puff and sputter.
    Now, enlighten me as to how you checked fuel, spark and compression.
    Did you check fuel pressure? If so, what was it?
    What was the compression?
    How did you check for spark? Was it weak or strong? Blue, white or yellow?

    I'm willing to attempt to help you, but if you aren't gonna supply any info, then like I said, my crystal ball is broken, so I'm afraid I can only do so much.
  • dandmdandm Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Dodge Intrepid and the check engine light keeps coming on for almost about a week and a half, it goes on then after a bit it will go off. Now I am having problems starting my car some time I have to wait about 5 mins before I can start may car? Help. :(
  • alpinelabalpinelab Member Posts: 5
    found the problem it was the crank sensor. not too expensive relatively easy to put in. so buddy with the broken crystal ball thx for your help and the calais is my girl friends dads car he likes to drive clunkers i have a 2000 intrepid works good except for the oil sensor goin about once a year or two again thx for your help prob solved next time i will give as much info as i can im def no mechanic and this site is new too me but seems awsume.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Now, for the benefit of everyone here, it would sure be nice to know how you found the problem.

    It might provide some useful information to other folks.

    As for the crystal ball......
    You have to understand that I cannot see or hear the problem that a person is having, I can only go by what information a person writes here. The more information that is provided, the better "picture" we can get of the problem.

    The thing about newer cars is, you can have spark, fuel and compression and a no start.
    In your case, it was probably a weak spark problem.
    Hence the questions about how you checked for spark.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Can crank sensors be very intermittent--that is, working fine one minute and not the next? Because as you say, if he had spark, compression and fuel, the car would have to start, or at least sputter a lot and try to run.

    Can a crank sensor contribute to a weak spark? (don't think so)---it's either ON or OFF, right?
  • bargilbargil Member Posts: 2
    This site contain lots of information on "Check Engine" light codes Etc..

    http://www.batauto.com/
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Can a crank sensor contribute to a weak spark? (don't think so)---it's either ON or OFF, right?
    Usually, which is why his post confuses me a bit.
    Would be nice to know how he found it and what they tested.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Hmmm, that site seems very familiar to me.
    :surprise:
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    You are a contributor to that site aren't you?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    does a sensor like this have a coil that causes a pulse when the armature spins and a tooth passes under the coil?

    is it possible the "mag pickup" is not gapped properly or the sensor / tooth distance is varying or too large such that the circuit processing the signal from the coil is not producing a steady repeatable signal?
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Yeppers. I get the lucky privilige of being responsible for the webpages and programs.
    I am so lucky. :confuse:
    Well, it sounded good anyway. :shades:
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i can relate. my wife has a business and i'm the defacto IT guy. no pay, no bennies, only complaints. :mad: :cry:

    that site is a good one though!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Last winter I happened to get caught outside in our MH during our only snow and ice storm of the winter.

    MH is a 2001 27' Four Winds on a '99 Ford E350 w/V-10 Super-Duty chasis.

    Had to make a short downhill run to get to the plowed main drag with the street VERY slippery.

    Installed tire chains on both outside rear wheels, pointed 'er downhill and then the fun began.

    Each time I applied the brakes to slow my downhill coasting rate the MH would skid sideways, but eventually come to a stop..'way too close to parked cars a couple of times.

    WHAT...?

    With the tire chains I could easily back up and did so several times before I was able to keep myself centered in the roadbed for enough tries to reach the main drag.

    ??..MH skids if I go forward but seems to have TONS of traction uphill in reverse.

    Front wheels locking up, obviously, but very low speed (a baby could crawl faster) so no ABS activation.

    Aha, no rear brakes.....

    Had I come to this realization at the time I could have used the rear implemented e-brake and been safely on my way a whole lot sooner.

    The ABS activated on numerous occassions as I completed my drive home, ~7 miles, that evening so I know ABS is working, at least partially.

    So I recently jacked/raised the rear tires of the MH (two 4 ton jackstands) and while there is clearly some level of braking at the rear (braked rear wheels did not turn at idle nor slightly above), lo and behold, I can easily get the speedo up to 10MPH with heavy, HEAVY, (left) foot pressure on the brake pedal. Next I quite thoroughly visually inspected the ABS module/manifold, brake lines, master cyclinder, fluid reservoir and rear brake rotors and pads. Everything seemed normal and intact but I did come to realize that the Ford had only a three channel ABS system since there was only one brake fluid line to the rear.

    I deem it unlikely that both rear brake calipers have siezed but I now have to check that for a possibility.

    Someone on another forum related that the newer, '99 included, E-series Super-Duty chasis have a stage 1 ABS mode wherein fluid pressure to the rear brakes is electrically limited (a "virtual" brake proportioning valve/manifold??). Then if that doesn't suffice to keep'm roll'n then the normal ABS mode activates, pulsing the rear fluid pressure release solenoid on and off.

    So, has that Stage 1 ABS manifold port failured and is continuously leaking, bleeding off, my rear braking fluid pressure?

    Any suggestions?
  • echoparkgirlechoparkgirl Member Posts: 8
    As I was driving, the check engine light on my Honda CRV (2004) came on simultaneously with some clunking noise and the car began to drag. I towed the car in to the dealer who said it was a vtec switch spool valve and that the engine had reverted to safety mode. AT the time, the car had 33000 miles and had just been serviced by the dealer 1000 miles earlier. The car was no longer under warranty.

    The dealer charged me $457 to replace the valve.

    When I picked up the car, it still felt like it was dragging--like having the emergency brake on. I took the Honda to 2 independent mechanics. One thought the engine was dragging. The second one did not think the engine was dragging but commented that usually is is a $40 oil pressure switch and not a $457 valve job on a Honda with my mileage.

    The above is after 3 years of servicing my car at the Honda dealer where in the past 6 months I have noticed they may not be doing all that is part of the service. For example, my battery died after a service where they purportedly checked the battery. Soon after the warranty expired, the car has begun to break down.

    Any suggestions.

    echoparkgirl
  • jimzopsjimzops Member Posts: 39
    the mechanic said code 67-1 came up during the on-board computer
    diagnostics, with pin-point flow charts testing, TSB's, computer code testing.
    He said Code 67-1 meant catalytic converter failure and cost of $397 part, $90 labor.
    I called Honda and a reputable muffler place and they both said it should have been
    code P-0420 for catalytic coverter failure.
    Is the 67-1 code legitimate? Is this a generic code of some kind?
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    He is using the manufacturer's codes, which is the same as DTCP0420: Catalytic System Efficiency Below Threshold
    So, yes the code is legitimate. More than likely he is using a Honda OEM scanner. Which if he is pulling Manufacturer codes, tells me he is set up to work on Hondas quite bit.

    I am assuming that when you say Honda, you are referring to the dealer. They should have easily known this.
    As for the "reputable muffler place", remember that they do mufflers. Their mindset is that if the code isn't on their Generic OBD2 scanner, then it isn't real.

    I'll be honest, I am not sure which bothers me the most, the fact that the Honda place and muffler place didn't know what they were talking about, or the fact that you felt mechanics were so crooked that they were lying to you.

    There may be an underlying cause to the problem, but the fact that he went through the flow charts and TSBs, says he did some extensive diagnostics.

    As for the cost, if that included the diagnostics, then you got a deal.
  • jimzopsjimzops Member Posts: 39
    I have used this mechanic mnay times before so I was not questioning his integrity but only if I could get it done cheaper. The estimate cost is $487 total. He will wave the $90 diagnostic fee if they do the servicing.

    The Honda dealer dealer did not know of code 67-1 and they want $800 for the service if they determine it is
    indeed P-0420.

    Due to personal financing constraints, and that I will need state inspection/emission inspection (in Missouri) by
    Dec. 31, I intend to do the repair in Early Dec.
    As long as the car is running well do I need to be worried about cauing more damage if I let it go a few months?
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    I'm not sure what your mechanic determined was needing replaced, so I will assume it is the cat.
    If it is the three way cat, if you continue to run it, there is the possibility that the cat will plug and leave you on the side of the road.

    Then again, it may go for a while and not plug.
    To be honest, with 3 months away and not knowing how much you drive, that is a tough call and there is a possibility that a partially plugged cat could cause detonation and early failure later on.

    Do you know if he checked the Oxygen sensors to confirm that they are working properly and that there are no vacuum or exhaust leaks? Those can contribute to that fault code.
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