Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
Comments
Thanks
http://www.ripoffreport.com/results.asp?q1=ALL&q5=aamco&submit2=Search%21&q4=&q6=&q3=&q2=&- - q7=
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/aamco.htm
Good luck. I tried to email you this info several weeks ago, but didn't sign into the website properly. Sorry.
Any of you run into similar problem and has any idea how to fix it.
Any help would be appreciated.
Dealer is hopeless.
Would appreciate hearing what you come up with.
Steve K.
He is stumped.
Any ideas?
John
Host
Thanks for any help
Rakesh Pandey
For the check engine light, there isn't a code which says that the EGR valve requires replacement, but that there's a problem in the EGR system somewhere. There are 9 different EGR related codes. The most common EGR code for Fords is P0401, EGR Insufficient Flow Detected. If so, it's usually a DPFE (differential pressure feedback EGR) sensor malfunction. Check with your dealer, there might be an extended warranty on it.
I have a 1995 Corsica and have both the Service Engine Soon light and the ABS Brakes light are on. I was curious to find out what you did to make the light go out. I suspect that the ABS light is a faulty speed sensor on one of the wheels. It will go off sometimes when I first start the car and stay off until I apply the brakes the first time. Then it comes on and stays on. I would appreciate any help. Thank you.
Regards,
Dan
I've tried to search for an answer to my question but I have not really found anything.
Recently I purchased a 1998 Ford Escort zx2 with 55,500 miles on it after my 1995 Dodge Neon had to be junked bc of engine damage. I did a check of the VIN on autocheck.com and everything appeared to be clean. When I went with my father to look at the car everything also checked out. Also, in addition, my boyfriend looked at it, inside and out, and also took it for a drive and commented on how well it drove and how good under the hood looked.
The A/C doesn't really come out cold but that really doesn't bother me bc I am used to not having it anyway. I purchased the car last wednesday and have put about 250 miles on it. On the way home from my boyfriend's house about a half hour into the drive the service engine soon light came on. I checked the temp and it was normal, and I listened to see if I could hear anything, ie a timing belt going bad or any knocking noises and everything sounded normal. I even tried shutting my car off and restarting it a few minutes later but it still came on...
I have a warranty with the car that has a 100 dollar deductible. So, my questions are... Should I bring it back to the dealership and demand they look over my car since I just got it last week?? Or should I just take it to a place and have it looked at under the warranty?
Also, does anyone have any ideas of why the service engine soon light is on???
Thanks.
A couple days ago I am driving home from work and within a few minutes the "check engine light" came on so I move to the side of the road and turn off my car. I turn it back on and the light goes off but as I continued driving I notice a strange squeeking noise. When I make it home I inspect the engine and notice the noise is coming from the distrubutor cap so, I purchase a new cap but I didn't have time to change it immediately. I drive it to work and back for the next 2 days with the old cap: the noise came and went on occassion but the engine light didn't come back on and the car drove fine.
On day two, I go to drive my car and within 5-6 blocks my car stalls out on me at a light and I could not restart it; engine light on and all. I park it on the side of the road and give it a few tries but it would not catch so I change the distributor cap on the spot but, it still did not want to start. I gave it a few good tries and it reluctantly started so I decide to drive it very slowly back home(5 blcoks) but on the way it stalled out twice but not competely, kind of putt putted for a few seconds but would catch again. I finally make it back to my place where I shut the car down but noticed smoke coming out of the engine. Looking in the engine I see something that was RED HOT way down in the back of the engine. It was dark and have no idea what was burning. I was very worried that the car would catch fire but after about 15-20 minutes the red hotness and smoke died down.
So now it's the next day and I am scared to try and start my car up. I want to put in some new spark plugs in hopes that it will make a difference but the fact that something went red hot and smoked makes me very weary of trying to start it up again.
Has anyone experienced this? Any ideas of what the problem could be? any suggestions?
Any help and advise would be greatly appreciated.
bholden
http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/
Grounding a wire or something like that?
JD
Check online for a replacement Oxy sensor for 82 bucks. Also read somewhere about MAF (mass airflow sensor located between air filter and intake manifold) could be bad and you could clean it on some model of Corolla (should be the same for Prizm). Remove wire hardness (use pliers to hold down clip and carefully pry it off and try not to break it. Remove the two screw and slide it out (might have to move some of the cables). Look for two sensors deep inside the chamber (there is also two outside). If it looks like it is dirty, spray clean with electronic solvent. I didn't have any and use carb cleaner (this has old and eventually the sensor might need cleaning again). Use an air pump like the ones you use to put air in your tire. With a air fitting, blow the sensors clean. It should look shiny. Might also use q-tip to swap it a bit but be careful not to break the connectors. Let dry and replace. When putting back into the housing, the rubber gasket should be in the groves. It could be stretched a bit and will not fit. I use paper clip bent with a little hook and lift the gasket up and push sensor into the housing. Tighten the screws a bit and use a flat screw driver to push the rubber gasket into the slot. Make sure the gasket is all the way into the housing and not crushed outside and end up having a vacuum leak.
Any way, once the MAF is back into the housing, started the car and the light went off. Now I have a oxy sensor for a spare part. I might change it when I have some time. All in all, the car has great pick-up and runs like new.
I'm wondering if I am getting false readings...because the light never goes off!!!!!
Please help!
P.S. the car is a 1991 Estate Lambda, one owner from new full service history
Thanks!
http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/
Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak
Do some cars run random checks on the vacuum integrity of the fuel evaporative system while they're running? Often people mention that fueling with engine running can set the light.
When I had a 2nd check engine solid light on 98 LeSabre I got the service manual out and finally found the conditions for GM to run the check. It didn't mention any check other than on lukewarm start. I often fill both cars with the motor running, usually warming up after 1 mile drive to a station.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Inap
http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/
So my question is does anyone know what would cause this and does he have to hook up the scanner when the engine light is on?????
Any help would be great.
http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/