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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • Its located underneath the passenger side back door... almost directly underneath... if you have already purchased the part.. just look underneath, and you'll see pretty much the same piece underneath..
    as far as chaning it.. its one of the fastest, easiest things to do... but can become a little messy.. :P
    youll have two connectors to it... just unfasten the clamps at both ends, and pull the two apart.. then connect your new one on the same way you took the old one off... simple as that... trust me it will be alot easier to see and do, then to have it explained in to much detail... but if you have ever changed your oil filter, its even easier and faster than that...:) good luck
  • I have a sable 2001 with 96,000 miles on it, its now started to feel like that I'm on a wash board road or that I have driven over something in the road, going to take it to the shop but dont want to get ripped of either. Thanks for your time
  • I hope I'm posting in the proper thread.

    My 2002 Ford Taurus wagon has a 200 milli amp electrical leak that won't quit. I've pulled each of the fuses and the leak is still there. At first, I thought my problem was the OEM battery, but a new, recharged battery quickly wore down. That's when I discovered the leak. I clearly need help.
  • I've been having a similar (but more specific) problem with my stereo system in my 98 Taurus. The radio's audio will cut out, but the display will stay on. Then, after a while, the entire radio will cut out, display and all. It appears to be fairly intermittent, with the radio returning to 'normal' for a day or so, and then the cycle repeats. I've replaced the radio, but the problem still occurs. I'm guessing that it's something in the electrical system outside the radio itself, or perhaps the Taurus radio has a problem? Any help would be appreciated!
  • I have a 93 Taurus Wagon GL, 3.0 V6.

    Is what I am observing on my temperature gauge normal or symptomatic of a problem?

    1) From a cold start the temperature on the gauge will rise to between the MA of NORMAL and then quickly fall to the N and then rise again.
    2) Once warmed up, On highway, it will read between the NO of normal.
    3) In city, I have seen it go has high as A then drop to the middle. In city I have also seen it not exceed the R.

    Is this normal or symptomatic of an underlying problem.

    Some notes: The radiator was replaced as well as the thermostat.

    Thanks to all for a prompt response.
  • igggieigggie Posts: 1
    help i need the location of the egr valve on a ford taurus 1990
  • ants56ants56 Posts: 1

    I've got the same problem with my car. Were you able to resolve it? Any advice?
  • :cry: I have a 1999 Mercury Sable Wagon and found out my only working brake light is the high one on the gate. I was looking for access to check bulbs but could not find any. It puzzles me that Ford makes such simple task like bulb change a dealer issue. Anyway, if anybody knows how to get to lower bulbs, I would appreciate info.

    Thanks Leo
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Open the liftgate, remove the 2 screws from the inboard side of the light housing, and remove it.
  • I have the same problem with my 93' taurus and when i investigated it i noticed there were pins on the frame near the door hinges..I was wondering if this had anything to do with the problem. I don't have much experience with cars.can anyone help?
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Hi, guys!

    I have a 2001 Taurus SES w/Vulcan engine and 99,000 miles. It's been a great car, but I have a question:

    Two months ago I was on the interstate and the car made a jolting feel three times (about 10 seconds apart) and I stopped at a service shop. They said it was likely a miss. So I replaced all the spark plugs and wires (only cost $60 and had a friend do it). Car ran great and was even smoother operating than before (which before was fine).

    Yesterday, that jolt feel came back and it did it once. It felt the same as my buddy's 1996 Toyota Tercel who's does the same thing and he said he probably just needed a MAP sensor.

    So, what is a MAP sensor and could that be my problem? I know it's not my plugs or wires. My throttle body was completely cleaned out by my friend who replaced the plugs, and my car's transmission has been flushed twice since purchase and is smooth. Auto Zone said it could be water in the tank, put ISODRY in it.

    Another note: My check engine light sometimes comes on/off for a EVAP leak, and I replaced my fuel cap.

    The dealer says wait until it is more recurrent.

    What do you think? Other than this very remote and non-consistent problem, the car runs absolutely wonderful!

    - Alex

    P.S. This car has never broke down and is 100% reliable.
  • I am responding to this message from an earlier discussion in 2005 on "chirping" sound coming from engine and thought others might find it useful. I had same problem on my 2000 Sable w/ 159,750 miles. My dad (w/ exact same car and 75K) developed the problem just a few weeks before me. Here are the parts we replaced: Distributor oil pump driver/sensor (F8DZ-12A362-AA) and Cam sync sensor (1F1Z-6B288-BA). Total cost w/ installation was about $330. Both of us used our own private mechanics.
  • Hi,

    I have a 2000 Ford Taurus, no manual, and I am having trouble finding the fuse box. My cigarette lighter stopped working, and so did the extra 12v located underneath it. Does anyone have any idea where I can find the fuse box, and which fuse it would be. I'm a Sirius radio addict in dire need of 12v power!

  • The passenger comparment fuse panel is located below and to the left of the steering wheel by the brake pedal. Remove the panel cover to access the fuses.

    There is also another fuse box for in the engine compartment called the power distribution box. The power distribution box contains high current fuses that protect your vehicle's main electrical systems from overloads.

    For what it's worth, I was able to download an electronic copy (PDF file) of the owners manual for my Mercury Sable at the Mercury owners website.
  • Unfortunately I can't download the PDF because they want me to pay to upgrade my membership. If it is what I found in my car, it has a black cover? Not your normal looking cover, all the wiring is going to it. But it doesn't even look possible for me to get the cover off and change them, much less know which one goes to the cigarette lighter. Now I am just ticked because why the hell would they put it somewhere so inaccessable and not give you diagrams and all that. I knew I should have stuck with GM!

    Thanks though. at least I think I know where it is now.
  • The circarette/cigar lighter fuse is inside the passenger compartment undernaeth the dash left of the steering wheel.

    The cigarette lighter fuse is in spot #13.


    If you put your E-mail address in your profile I'll E-mail you a PDF manual for a 2003 Sable.
  • I found this link to Ford Taurus owners manuals

  • I have a '99 Mercury Sable LS that my Mom just gave to me. It has the 3.0L Duratec. I noticed today that while driving and the wiper switch turned to off, the wipers would cycle 1 stroke occasionally. I checked to make sure that the washer button wasn't stuck (it wasn't) and the wiper switch was really set to the off position (it was). Any ideas on what might cause this problem? Bad switch or multifunction switch? The wipers work fine otherwise. Thanks!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Wife mentioned a service engine light a couple of months ago. It went away in a couple days before I was able to check. Now I've got the light again and that was the code.

    Adding confusion, about three months ago she was complaining that she was seeing an intermittant where the speedometer would suddenly fall to zero and act like the car was slipping, changing gears, something like that. Immediately I suspected the Vehicle Speed Sensor on the tranny. But the cheap manual I have says that should have set a code. No Code! Can anyone verify if a defective sensor sets a code?
    The vehicle also seemed to do TCC lock at speeds way to low. I told her it needed dealer check to get total readout. She ignored and took to the one place I told her to stay away from. (Definite woman)They gave me some bull about the signal going places other than the computer and then to the speedometer, I knew better. More questioning gave the warranty as, they were pretty certain that was the problem and they would apply the price against the fix. I could just hear a $3000 transmission coming. Just as bad, I know where they get there parts and it is highly likely they use Wells brand. My luck with all there parts has been they last just past any warranty.
    But back to the code.
    I've researched it as far as I'm able to. What I've found is this is a performance code and is set when the TCC doesn't properly engage determined by engine sensors, VSS(the one they changed), TSS(turbine shaft sensor), etc. I guess it compares the engine speed with vehicle speed more or less. If the TCC is supposed to be locked and the engine rpm doesn't match what the vehicle speed is for the gear it is supposed to be in, you get the failure. That is, the clutch might not be engaging or it is slipping.

    But I need an answer to if the code sets, does it stop trying to engage the TCC?
    I hooked up some test circuitry and monitored for the low from the computer to the TCC solenoid yesterday and the line stayed high. That is it made no effort to engage the clutch.
    Any knowledge of this circuit and how it functions will be greatly appreciated.
    If I was supposed to get a light with the VSS failure, then it starts to look very much like a malfunctioning computer.
    Also parameters telling the computer to engage the TCC would be helpful since it had prior been engaging too soon. (no codes).
  • My 2002 Ford Taurus wagon has a 200 milli amp electrical leak that won't quit. I've pulled each of the fuses and the leak is still there. At first, I thought my problem was the OEM battery, but a new, recharged battery quickly wore down. That's when I discovered the leak. I clearly need help.

    Not sure if you'll see this since no one has responded yet, but have you checked your alternator diodes? When they go, they can "leak" current, killing the battery when the car is shut off. The current leak will get worse over time. This can be checked by removing the alternator and taking it to a parts store for testing (such as Auto Zone).
  • My wife's 03 Taurus has 66k miles and the original tires have been great, but I fear their days are numbered; the tread is getting a little thin. Are there any recommendations for replacement tires on the alloy rims? Are there any tires that I should stay away from?

    My priorities for these tires are long tread life, reasonable traction, and above all, the quietest possible tire in terms of rolling noise.
  • I have a 1991 Taurus SHO and the climate control does not turn off. Thus killing the battery after several hours. It is suppose to run off but the OFF on the display stays on. Does anyone have a clue on what the trouble may be?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I put some BF Goodrich Traction T/A's on my 2000 SES this summer. They are the T rated version supposedly a 70K tire, not the H rated. I have about 4K miles on them and am very happy with them. Tire Rack gives them a good review as well. They are directional tread tires, so can only be rotated front to back.

    They ride quietly, somewhat better wet traction than the OEM Continentals, and have quite good snow traction as well, and they are fairly moderately priced.

    I don't bother with snow tires as my front wheel drive Taurus performs quite well in the snow I need to get around in, as long as a decent amount of rubber remains on all season tires.
  • Thanks for the recommendation. I've used Goodrich on other cars with good results.

    And... umm..... I don't bother with snow tires cuz I live in Texas.

  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Y'all should be drivin' a pickup then! :)
  • Never. Even the Taurus is too much of a gas guzzler for me, but we needed something to fit two 6 foot sons in the back seat.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Check at one of the internet tire sales. One of these places has a very nice forum that you can sort by model and learn what other owners thought of particular tires. Wife has older Sable and for it, dollars and doughnuts, a model of Khumo's were rated quite high. Same with other car, Aurora. I put them on it and couldn't be happier. Owners were more satisfied with this tire than the OE and several others typically costing about $150 more per tire. P235/60R16 99H.
    Note, the higher the speed rating, the softer the sidewall typically. Make sure you use at least what the OE was. Less will certainly ruin ride, harsh. Going higher may not be a problem as the above mentioned, without any suspension changes came with either S's or V's. Also the above mentioned site has a size search by vehicle. My search eliminated some tires available in that size because they didn't match weight requirements. (99H is weight/ speed rating for that particular tire)
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I replaced with the new Zerox about 2 years and 20K ago. If memory is correct, it was G05, for all Fords, long life high milage.
    The other day I looked into recovery bottle and saw this brownish with small specs in it. Did complete flush first.
    Anyone else having problem with this stuff?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    It is in the switch where you adjust the speed. You can carefully disassemble and correct the problem. If memory serves correctly, it is looseness in the assembly allowing the metal sliding device to short. Don't remember the exact fix, may have carefully sprung the device a small amount.
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