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While it is important to know a vehicle's residual value so that you can calculate a lease payment on it, the two most important numbers to know when leasing are your vehicle's lease money factor and selling price. These are the two main profit centers for dealers on leases. BMW FS' base lease money factor for a 36 month lease of this model is currently .00070. The only reason why the money factor would be higher is if you are having BMW FS' security deposit or acquisition fee requirements waived. If you are paying a security deposit and an acquisition fee and the dealer that you are working with is using a higher factor to calculate your lease payment, they may be trying to mark it up to add additional back-end profit to your deal. BMW dealers are notorious for marking up money factors.
Remember that the selling prices of leased vehicles can be negotiated, just as if you were paying cash for them. To get a good idea of what it should be like you can look up this model's Edmunds.com True Market Value in the New Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You can also stop by the following discussion that appears here in the Town Hall: "BMW X3: Prices Paid & Buying Experience". If you let me know what sort of selling price you were able to negotiate, I would be more than happy to work up a sample lease payment on this truck for you.
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I personally don't anticipate there being much of a difference between the lease program that is available on the XC90 in September and the one that will be available in October, but it is difficult to predict what manufacturers will do with their future programs with 100% accuracy.
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I have not seen TFS' current residual values for the 2005 Highlander yet, but I suspect that I will have an opportunity to find this number out within the next week or so. Please feel free to check back with me in early October and I will be more than happy to fill you in on what I have been able to find out.
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In your post, I noticed that the dealer that you are working with asked you for a $3,000 capitalized cost reduction. I always advise consumers against making any sort of down payment when leasing. I do so for two main reasons. The first is if your vehicle is totaled in an accident or stolen during your lease, your
insurance company pays off the bank that you were leasing it through and your down payment essentially disappears. The second main reason
is that down payments on leased vehicles do nothing to reduce their lease-end purchase prices. So your lease-end purchase option price for this car would be exactly the same, regardless of whether you had put $3,000 down, or had made absolutely no down payment at all.
Unfortunately, the lease calculator that is available on this Web site is not very accurate. I would be more than happy to calculate a sample lease payment on this car for you if you tell me how long you want to lease it for and the exact model that you are considering.
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MSRP = 51160
Selling price = $ 47175
Lease for 36 mo, 15,000 miles per year, no money down = $ 810/mo (this includes tax).
I'll let you know how things workout.
Oh yeah - the brake dust on the front wheels are crazy. I just use the swifter dusting towels every other day to remove the brake dust. As long as you have a nice coat of wax on the wheels, the brake dust comes of pretty easily.
I'm new here and eager to learn. After combing through the message board for a while yesterday I came upon a message and reply about states that are not favorable to lease an automobile in. It was because of some tax thing. TEXAS was listed in that reply and I am curious to what all this means. Please explain. Should I buy or lease?
Thanks again for the explanation of base lease money factor. One follow-up question. You mentioned that this is the bank’s “published” money factor. Where are they published, and why is it so difficult for consumers to figure out what they are?
I’m in a bit of a tough situation right now. I negotiated a good price for the car (did that part right), but I already gave the dealer a deposit to order the car without first agreeing on financing (did that part wrong). The factory lease the dealer offered works out to about $3 per month more than my calculations show using current residual and base factor. Of course, those numbers may change after the first of the month when the car is actually delivered (but I doubt it).
I’m just wondering why there is a small disparity in our figures. The quote he gave me works out to about an additional $100 over the 36 month lease term. Is there more than one accepted method of calculating a lease? If not, perhaps there’s a $100 “administrative” fee he’s working into the lease, or perhaps he’s using a slightly higher money factor. I guess my question is, should I just let the $100 go in light of the good price I got on the car (and the fact that he has my deposit), or is it worth confronting the dealer with the $100 disparity? Perhaps I should just ask for some free accessories?
The details: He paid an initial $12,000 in fees and taxes, and has been making payments of approx. $1,600 for six months. It is a 59-mo. lease. The car value was set at a MSRP of nearly $108,000.
So he started out owing over $97k. This fellow now wants out and asks me to pay him about (are you ready... ) $91,000 for the car. Supposedly, he would be out about another $4k on the deal plus, of course, his downpayment.
I know zip about leased cars, but I am stopped by the fact that I would not get a clear title, since he doesn't hold it. The leasing company is the lease holder. So, as he explains it, I would pay him, he turns around and pays them, they send him the title, and he gives it to me for reassignment. This means I would have to give a total stranger some 3,000 mi. away $91,000 in cash for a car that he does not technically own. What am I missing here?
Is this, as he says, a fairly typical transaction that the leasing company can arrange for me? Why wouldn't it be simpler for me to have the lease reassigned to me--then I would have a legal claim and could pay off the car immediately? Help! I know a lot about exotic cars, but as you can see, zero about leasing--which always struck me as a not-so-swell deal.
P.S.-- Anticipating posts from the sharp-witted, I know that deals of this magnitude can and should be run past my lawyer and accountant, and of course, they will. But I'm just trying to get some preliminary info here-- should I pursue this deal or run away as fast as I can?
RSR
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I am not sure why there is a $3 per month difference in the payment that you calculated on your own and the one that the dealer that you are working with quoted you, but to be honest with you that is not a very large difference anyhow. The formula that is used to calculate lease payments is outlined in the following article that is available right here at Edmunds.com: Calculate Your Own Lease Payment. I personally wouldn't worry about the slight difference in payments, but you certainly are free to discuss it with your dealer if you would like.
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Thank You for replying so soon. I guess now I need to determine how to baloon buy/lease? a car. Any leads or areas here at Edmunds that you could direct me to that would help in my persuits?
Let me also say that we are looking at a Honda Accord EX V6 Leather w/Auto. or a Subaru Legacy Outback XT Wagon w/Man. Also, we prefer mileage of 15K miles if it applies.
Take Care,
BJ
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I came up with a money factor of .00146 (approximately) from your numbers....I hope I did that properly. (3.5/2400= .0014583)
I will use these numbers to compare what the dealer gives me.
If I go with the GTO I'll post the numbers the dealers gives me.
I appreciate your help very much. Thank you again.
Thank you kindly for your reply. It seems my screen name was proven true, I posted before I read and did any research...
Now I have read many of your posts and mant lease calculators and I now realize that what I thought was a good deal on the surface wasn't so good.
The exact car I'm looking at is a 2004 93 Aero (SR, TOURING, XENON, CWP, RPA). The MSRP is 37400 with Destination charge.
Based on previous posts, I see that there is a $3500 lease cash. There is also mention of "Dealer Coupons" worth up to $1200. When I called on the phone, the dealer even mentioned these coupons so they may be real.
It also seems that the Aero is getting good MF of .23!!!? This is impressive, but I don't know if true.
If I assume that I can get 50% residual on a 36 month lease with 12k miles per year, and that I can get the car for invoice price, I calculate the following.
$1000 down, $325/month (I have 6.5% sales tax here)
I'm thinking of trading in my 98 Contour SVT to further reduce payment, but the above seems pretty good as is. And I could sell the Contour for more than they offered (wholesale), but maybe I can use that to entice them.
Can you provide feedback on my analysis?
You are very helpful, I'm sorry my first post wasn't educated.
-E
This will be my first time leasing.
I have negotiated a price of 37,295.
How can I get a rough idea of what my payments will be with 5k down?
The lease calculators are asking for interest rate and money factor values which I have no idea what they would be. What are some average values that I can use?
This changes my results above to $1000 down $372/mo for 36 month, 12k miles, 50% residual, .23 MF, $29,300 Net Cap Cost.
That kinda sucks.
2004 and 2005 Honda Accord LX
Thank you
dick
I know this was discussed a couple of weeks ago, but I want to run this by you. My local Chrysler dealership is advertising the following lease for a 2004 Chrysler Crossfire:
$249/month for 36 months @ 12k miles/yr. $1995 down plus ttt. No mention of acquisition fee, security deposit, or dealer fee. It does state there are lease loyalty rebates and lease cash involved through Chrysler Financial. However, I only see a lease loyalty rebate listed on Edmunds. Unfortunately, it doesn't apply to me.
I know Chrysler was recently running $299 lease deals on Crossfires with $2995 cap cost. However, the $249/month deal seems too good to be true. I've contacted the dealership to see if I can get more particulars but they have yet to respond.
In the meantime, what do you think about this deal? Has anything changed recently with Chrysler Fin. as far as rebates or incentives? I know about the .00004 MF with auto trans. What if I wanted one with a manual? Is the residual on the Crossfires still at 56%?
Your help is greatly appreciated. If things work out right, I may pull the trigger within the next couple of days.
You mentioned available manufacturer support as a cost effective way to take a baloon note out on a car for us Texans. Is this option equal to what one my might receive if leasing an auto in say, Louisina or Oklahoma? I did look at the Incentives & Rebates and saw leasing deals for the Honda Accord and the Subaru Outback however the deals were for models we are not considering, engine size, trim levels etc... Is this where you looked to get your information? Or, do you have privelaged info unfit for us common type? Here is what we are looking for:
2005 Honda Accord EX-V6 w/Leather, NAV and Automatic Trans.
2005 Subaru Outback XT Limited 2.5T w/Manual
Trans
36 months
a 2000 Durango XLT with agreed trade value of $11,250 from dealer (I still owe $6700 to bank).
On a 2004 Honda Pilot EX with cloth seats
our dealer determined monthly lease payment of
$368 with residual of 18,875 (3 yr, 12,000 mile)
This would pay off Durango $6700 and we would get a check for $3471 -(If the dealer said he would give me $11250 - why does he only give 3471 after paying off 6700 due to bank?)
Is their a rule to determine if is
wise to use the $3471 to lower
the monthly lease payment or to use it
for paying off the monthly payments?
Also does this lease as presented look to be
a fair deal on a Pilot?
The difference between the equity in your old car ($11250-$6700 = $4550) and the check you get back ($3471) is likely to be the amount upfront due on your pilot lease. ($368 1st pymtn, $400 sec. deposit, licensing fees,etc.. ) He is likely deducting your due-at-signing amount from the amount of equity in your trade.
regards,
kyfdx
(not the expert)
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Well, that pretty much sums up all of the offers that you would be eligible for if you were to lease this truck prior to October 1st. Make sure to let me know if you have any other questions.
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As far as trading in your Contour goes, I personally feel as though you would be better off selling it on your own. Not only will you get more money for it by selling it privately, but I always advise consumers against making any sort of down payment when leasing. I do so for two main reasons. The first is if your vehicle is totaled in an accident or stolen during your lease, your insurance company pays off the bank that you were leasing it through and your down payment essentially disappears. The second main reason is that down payments on leased vehicles do nothing to reduce their lease-end purchase prices. So your lease-end purchase option price for this 9-3 would be exactly the same, regardless of whether you had used your equity from your current vehicle as a down payment, or had made absolutely no down payment at all.
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Once you have a good idea of what you should pay for this car, stop back here and ask me for American Honda Finance Corp.'s current lease money factor and residual value for it. I am usually able to give consumers who tell me how long they want to lease for and how many miles per year they need to be able to drive and idea of what their vehicle's lease program should be like. Acura's October program for the TSX will probably be different than its September program. So if you aren't going to lease this car until October, wait until a few days into the month before asking me what the new program is like. It is important to know what the base money factor is for the vehicle that you want to lease because most banks allow dealers to "mark-up" their base factors to add additional back-end profit to deals. Basically this involves the dealer charging you a higher interest rate than the bank is charging for this model and getting a kickback for the additional earnings. This is completely legal and happens all the time.
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I haven't seen Honda's lease program for the 2005 Odyssey yet, but I should be able to give you an idea of what this van's program is like when it introduces its new program in October. Please feel free to check back with me a few days into the month and I will let you know what I have been able to find out.
I noticed in your post that you are considering making a substantial down payment on this lease. I always advise consumers against making any sort of down payment when leasing. I do so for two main reasons. The first is if your vehicle is totaled in an accident or stolen during your lease, your insurance company pays off the bank that you were leasing it through and your down payment essentially disappears. The second main reason is that down payments on leased vehicles do nothing to reduce their lease-end purchase prices. So your lease-end purchase option price for this Odyssey would be exactly the same, regardless of whether you had put $5,000 down, or had made absolutely no down payment at all.
If you want some rough numbers to plug into a lease calculator for now, use a money factor of .00265 and a residual value of 60% for a 3 year 15,000 miles per lease of the '05 Odyssey. I don't know exactly what its program will be like in October, but these numbers should be close. Please feel free to check back with me mid next week and I will try to give you an idea of what the actual program is like. Talk to you then.
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