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I am the second owner of a 96 jetta GLS 2.0L automatic transmission. Last year I had the fluid/filter and seal changed because the transmission was slipping a little. It's been running like a champ ever since. However, I've found a leak around the seal of the transmission pan. Because there is no dipstick I have no way of knowing how low the fluid level is.I haven't noticed any hard shifting or slipping yet, but I would like to fix the leak. Before I go and buy the seal and filter kit, I would really appreciate it if someone could tell me if there are any special tools/equipment that I will need in order to drop the pan, change the seal and add new fluid. Also is there a specific type of transmission fluid that I will have to use, and how much will be required?
Thanks to all who reply.
Now, when I push on the gas pedal, the RPMs go up but the speed increases very veeeeery slowly and the engine works a lot louder. It feels same way as in cars that have on "overdrive" feature -- unless you push the "O/D" button on the gear you won't go much faster no matter how hard you push on gas. But I do not have the "O/D" feature, I have turbo engine instead, and before the replacement of the alternator, the car was fine, got up to speed very quickly with less engine noise.
I can't imagine that it has something to do with an alternator. Maybe instead something needs to be set right in the computer? I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks!
so, now that ive ranted, has anyone heard of any TSBs that might be helpful, because i dont care that ive had the work done, i will take this dealership to hell and back to get my money returned.
thanks!
Re: Jetta 2000 Misfire - Spark Plug fouling [mkaiser] )
Mine is 2002 Jetta GLS, 2.0LTR engine.
I had the exact same problem recently and took a car to the dealer a few days ago.
They replaced the temperature censor and fixed some kind of faulty on the computer but the very day after I brought the car back (which was yesterday), engine light started to flash and the car started shaking violently. Today, it no longer flashes but the engine light stays on after the car starts. They did not say anything about oil. Should I tell them to check the PCV? I asked them about the famous ignition coils problem and they just ignored me by saying it only applies to turbo engine.
Any info would be appreciated.
Thank you!
if u have less than 80k mile
ur dealer should replace cat converter for free!
My daughter's '99 Jetta (12/98 mfg date) got sideswiped and lost her driver side mirror. I want to buy and install an aftermarket replacement, what steps do I need to perform for the R&R.
Thanks in advance.
Bill
I have a leaking trunk, as well, and it's not easy to figure out where it is leaking. With a friend spraying the closed trunk with a water hose, I inspected for leaks by crawling into the trunk via the folded-down back seat. I saw that the leak was coming from where some wiring conduit passes from inside the trunk to the trunk door. (There are two locations, along the sides of the top edges of the trunk.) I removed the dry-rotted rubber boots from around the conduit, and I replaced them by generously gobbing some silicone caulk to seal the opening. I used soapy water on my fingers to form the caulk. (It's a cheap fix, but it works.)
The caulk helped considerably, but I have recently noticed some more leaking in the trunk, even though the caulk is unbroken. The leak seems to be located underneath the trunk mat. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Jason
thanks for any help.... :confuse:
I have a 1997 Jetta and I replaced a rear taillight , assembly and it turned out that the seal around wasn't sealing properly and it's some sort of look like it was leaking from the trunk mat area. Maybe worth to look for.
Martin.
I bought my 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0 automatic with 35k miles on it in Nov. of 2003 from our local toyota dealer with a used car warranty thats good until June of 2006 or 75k miles. The car currently has 55k miles on it.
A few weeks after buying it the MIL went on. I didn't think much of it. Then the car was getting harder to start. By that I mean I would have to turn it over longer and longer before it would run. A few months go by and randomly the temp light would come on flashing. It wouldnt do it everytime but once in a great while. Then the car would sometimes not go when you pressed on the gas pedal like in the middle of an intersection when you had to wait for cars. When this happened the MIL would flash. I would pull over letting the car idle until the MIL stopped flashing and then the car would drive fine. The other issue I had is that if I got in the car and drove say to the bank or someplace where I was only inside for 15 - 20 minutes when I would come out the car wouldn't start. It will turn over fine but not start. I would have to wait anywhere from 10 - 30 additional minutes before the car would start and run fine of course with the MIL on. My warranty says I have to take it back to Toyota to fix. So in Nov 2004 I take it into toyota. At the end of the day I call them and they tell me it was my MAF sensor and it fell under a VW warranty so I didnt have to pay the deductable on my warranty but to go pick up the car at VW. I did so and when I picked it up they adv me they replaced the brake light switch that was under recall and also recommended that I replace my air filter to prolong the life of the MAF. On the way home from VW I buy the air filter and replace it.
All is ok for about three weeks. All symptoms above are gone. Then once again I get into the car from the store and it doesn't start. I wait the 20 or so minutes and the car starts and runs fine. The MIL of course is on and stays on. Randomly again the coolant light comes flashing on then turns off. Only these two symptoms return. Now a new one starts. While stopped at lights the rpms suddenly surge by 1k to 2k rpms. One time I pulled out of a parking spot at one end and without touching the gas pedal at all the car was at 30mph by the other end of the lot. I again return to Toyota and they pull the car in for two days this time. They end up telling me I needed a coolant sensor and flange replaced (under warranty) and I had "several" burned vacuum hoses and that the serpentine belt should be replaced which I agreed to (not under warranty but understandable).
This fix lasted exactly one week when we went into an ice cream shoppe for dessert and came back out and the car didn't start and of course the MIL came on. This time we only had to wait 7 minutes for the car to start. Driving home the MIL went off. Didn't happen again for a week. Same exact senario except it took 20 minutes for the car to start. Another week and it happens again. Then it starts doing something new. While idling at the mailbox pulling out the mail the car just stalls out. Started after cranking it a few times. Mil came on but as usual after sitting for a few hours went out. Another week goes by and it stalls again. A few days goes by and it stalls at a major intersection. Push it into a parking lot and it takes an hour before the car will start again. Drive it home. Next morning as I am pulling into the parking lot at work the car dies. (first time while in motion) I call Toyota from work and they take it right in. They keep it the whole day and say they can't duplicate the problem and by the time they got to it the MIL had reset itself and turned off. They plugged in the OBD and said that there weren't any codes nor none in memory. I go and pick up the car. They were nice enough to only charge me 1 hr of labor to drive the car 30 miles to try and dupe the problem.
Very Next Day which was this past friday July 1st of course the car stalls, won't start and MIL is on. I call the service rep I am on a first name basis with now and he says bring it right in but its late on Fri and they won't look at it until tomorrow (tuesday July 5th) when I am sure the MIL will be reset and who knows if it is holding a code in its memory or not.
Its almost like a fuel pump thing or vapor lock or vacuum in the fuel line. Any ideas? Sorry this was so long but I wanted to give a history of what has happened. If I could just get past this stalling/not starting thing I would absolutely love this car. I mean I still do but this is getting old.
My guess is either your low fuel light & fuel guage is not working or the fuel pump
you pump the gas is overcharged.
The BLINKING coolant lite is explained in a previous append and I will not repeat it here.
All the other issues sound like either the coolant sensor (Did you install the green one?) or the ignition coil may be faulty.
To test the ignition coil, try spritzing water with a spray-botle on the coil and ignition wires while engine is idling... if the engine stumbles at all... you have found a problem.
What you REALLY need is to determine what code is being stored in the computer to make the MIL come on. That code will guide you to the underlying issue.
From what I was reading I was also thinking it might be the coil or coil pack but living in nevada it hasn't been wet in forever but when I speak to Toyota later today I will mention it to them to see if they have tested it out. I am just hoping the MIL goes on for them like you said so they can get the code...or at least the code stuck in the memory this time from when I dropped it off... but still no word yet.
Thanks
Ryan
About six or so months after buying the car, my wife and I would hear an occasional tinky clank after going over bumps in the road. After taking it in several times during the extended warranty, the service dept. has no idea and says everything is fine. Six months later I am crawling under my car to check out the under side of the car ( because the clanging is louder and and because it now tings when shifting from park to drive) and I find out that cover plate for the oil pan is broke. Apparently there was a stress crack in the steel plate and with the freezing and thawing grew in a c pattern around the bolt that was holding it on. The plate was only connected by one bolt and clanging around. After discovering this problem I had to point it out to the service dept. and then they fixed it.
However my main complaint is about my AC. My AC works; however, on the dashboard, the two door side ac vents don't blow out any air at all (so small it is nominal). I was told by the VW service techs ( and manager) that in the newer designs the two main (center vents) have a fan behind them which give a greater flow and that the two side vents will put out less. All of this makes sense, but my car had no real flow out of the side vents. It took my three trips to the dealer to get some one to show me ac air flow out of the vents of another 2002 on the lot, so that we could compare the two. And guess what, my care was significantly worse than the demo car they used. Even the service tech and service manager came out and expressed concern about it. But here is the catch.....most of the ac stuff should be covered under warranty, but the only way to see if there is a crimp, break, or unhooked hose is to rip out the dash. If they take out the dash and find nothing to be warranty covered I have to pay a diagnostic fee of big dollars. I have been on a never ending catch 22 loop with customer care (VW of america) and the local dealership of where I currently live. Is there any advise for me to get this fixed since the vw service techs have expressed a problem yet are unwilling to fix it?
I, for one, considerd the corrosion warantee a BIG PLUS when I was looking for a new vehicle. Around here, it is the rust that limits the life of a car.... not the milage.
Although none of my vehicles has ever seen 110F, I have read that the oooze can make a real mess of ones pantlegs. I also have read that the oozing will subside over time.
I wonder if any of you cars has been expected to start at -20F? ;-)
I guess you have never needed the heated mirrors nor the heated windshield squirters either?... I take advantage of them all the time.
Right blinker blinks too fast.
I pulled some fuses to check for faulty fuses and my radio went into anti theft mode and I cant get it to work. The code doesnt work.
Every time I shift gears I hear this vibration it sounds like through the muffller?
windows have been fixed twice and they keep breaking. falling off the holder?
It has only 97,000 miles and I had to change all the hoses(air hoses) all cracked?
Thanks for your help!