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What kind of driving do you do? City/Highway? When you fill up your car after going 257 miles, how many gallons does it take to fill up the tank?
my 01 1.8t has had electrical issues since the day I bought it. In fact the north american vw plant has gotten various final warnings to fix their electrical issues or be shut down. My vehicle is currently in the shop, and has been for the past 2 wks, with more than $2000 in electrical problems, all of them recurring issues (been replaced once or twice before). It has had electrical problems since it was 40 days old. GET OUT while you can. Some vws run great, but it has been my experience (and many others) that the ones that have electrical issues will have them for the rest of their lives.
If your pedal is sinking you have something wrong in the brake hydraulics. It's supposed to be a closed system under high pressure, so pressure is being lost somewhere. It's the mechanics job to find out where. I really doubt that thousands upon thousands of Jetta owners are pumping their brakes at stoplights as we speak. A clever mechanic could have isolated the master cylinder and tested it by now.
system was not holding fuel pressure so i got a new fuel pump. the air temp sensor shorted because the mass air flow sensor failed.got a new one of those.. coolant temp sensor shorted, so i needed a new one of those...My question is this..I have seen so many messages saying how vw is unhelpful and i have experienced it myself..when i got my car back, the very next day my car shut off again after starting it and now the epc light is on...they told me to bring it down..i did, and then i had to get a rental car.as i was at the rental car place, vw called me and said nevermind...we cannot fix it anymore, there is nothing else wrong with it...she said i could bring it back in one week, because that is when the head manager person will be there..she gave me some cockamamy reason about the cost of fuel on the east coast and since it was only happening in the morning, then oh well...(i had to put my flashers on to avoid being hit because i coudnt drive in first gear..it only chugged)..what am i supposed to do now? i can see this is a commom problem, to give people the run around..i am not going to put up with it..the car has 14,000 miles on it and should not have needed new anything!!it is highly inconvenient and annoying and new cars shouldn't do this..what do i tell them? what is really the problem? why don't they want to fix anything?? any help is greatly appreciated! :confuse:
HTH :shades:
HTH :shades:
Now the problems:
1. I failed smog because the speedo doesnt work. So now I need to fix it right away in order to register the vehicle.
2. The smog report says the speed sensor is shot.
3. The Dealer (Lithia) says its the cluster.
4. They also say I cant just use another cluster. It wont come on. They say that I will need a new ECM or find a cluster that matches my ECM. They also say that the Odometer will be permanently screwed up.
Is it really that complicated to fix? There is no way I can come up with 1200 bucks by the end of the month when my registration expires. Lithia is pretty much the only game in town for VW's so I am afraid that they may have me over a barrel. I did not buy the Jetta from Lithia but the used dealer I bought it from only fixes what is covered on the warranty.
Any information on what my options are would be greatly appreciated.
Thank-you, EJM
The cluster is electronically "keyed" to the engine computer and your keyfobs (it is the cluster that "reads" the keyfob when you start engine.) Replacing the cluster may be a HUGE deal... or you may get lucky.
Perhaps it is time to find somone with a VAGCOM and do some diagnostics.
BTW: Why the heck do people purchase extended warantees if they dont cover the common failure problems? I have NEVER purchsed an extended warantee and instead put the $$ in the bank incase my car breaks. If it does not break... I get to KEEP the $$ towards the purchase of my next car....After doing this for about 20 years.... I will soon be able to pay CASH for my next vehicle if I want.
What do you mean by getting lucky? Do I have a chance in that or is it pretty slim odds (like finding another vehicle with the exact same programming.)? I ask only because I'm that desperate. I can't afford to be off the road and can probably get a 1 month fix-it permit but eventually will have to cough up the money if I can't find an alternate solution. I called the service center at Lithia and they suggested I sell it or trade it in. For a broken Speedo?!
Also, the clock and the digital trip odometer do not stay set. For instance, I set the clock and when I turn off the car and then turn it on again, it returns to 12:00 and the trip meter is back to 0.0. If I turn the car off for just a few seconds and restart, the numbers stay. But if I wait more than 30 seconds and restart, all is lost.
I thought that this could be an alternator problem. But I followed an alternator test (taking the negative electrode off the battery for more than a minute and the engine continued to run), and it worked fine.
Ever heard of anything like this? Any suggestions for me to fix it myself? I’m at a loss
Thanks for any help you can provide!
I leased an 06 jetta, package 2, about the same time frame. I am getting around 257 miles a tank and its incrediblu frustrating!
One way to check for baf MAF is to disconnect the electrical connector from it and the go for a drive. If any improvement is noted, suspect bad MAF.
Also, it is not a good idea to remove battery connector while engine is running. With todays cars with onboard computers, it could cause SERIOUS damage.
Are there fuses in other locations besides that by the driver side door?
Also, as mentioned several times - your DRIVING STYLE may be the biggest contributor to best MPG. Basically - An efficent driver does not have to use the brakes very often. All stops are known WELL in advance and the throttle should be released. Following-distances should be sufficent that the brakes are not neede if the person in front of you is an inefficent driver. (uses the brakes often)
A good way to think of it is this.... the BRAKE pedal is a fuel waster. It is only there to remove unwanted forward motion. Thus... if the unwanted forward motion is not there (better throttle control), the MPGs will go up.
I just bought an '07 Jetta on the 19th and I've tested my MPG twice and it's exactly 26mpg both times. I do about 80% highway, 20% city though.
For cars of about this weight (3000 pounds+), with similar engines (eg. 4 cyl Accord, Camry, Fusion, etc.), CR typically measures about the mileage you are getting in their "city" test. Their city test is much tougher than the Government's. Perhaps your driving is just similar to that used in CR's test.
Here is the official OBDII (OnBoard Diagnostics- version 2) list of codes; http://www.obdii.com/codes.html
Some of the auto-parts places will "read" the codes from your car for no charge.
HOWEVER: The light you describe does not sound like the CEL... you may be able to determine what it is from reading the owners manual.
I am planning on leaving my car over night at the dealer and suggest you try to do the same. The dealer I bought the car from provides free loaners
The mileage really depends on how hard you are on the throttle.. With you mileage that low I would think you are just a bit hard on yours.. Would bet its your foot thats the problem.. Grin..
However like others said the mileage does pick up as you get more miles on the car.. Ours is getting better but our 2002 Jetta 2.0 wagon is up to 30 to 35 mpg on the highway and started out low too.. We have about 40,000 on it now..
Snowdance
I think its one of the things you will have to learn to live with on these cars.. However to make you fell better about it.. I would drop by the dealer in the early morning and ask one of the salesmen to start up a couple of the new ones to hear how much like yours the sound is.. Odds are its much the same..
Snowdance
1. XM is constantly "Updating Channel Listings" (>50% of time) so you have no idea what is playing nor can you change channels.
2. Car sometimes forgets that it has XM, cant find XM, requiring restart of car to "remember" it.
3. Field where title and artist are displayed is only ~3 inches wide, while screen is twice that width, but all the extra space is just wasted. So instead of getting Artist, Song Title, and Album Title information, all I get is part of the artist, and part of the song title.
Anyone know of any other occurences of issues 1 or 2, or any solutions to #3?
as usual, any helpful comments or hilariously sarcastic replies are appreciated.
Here are some links to help you better understand the MAF, how it works and how to diagnose problems.
MAF info
MAF cleaner
I am betting the computer in the car needs to be replaced or reprogrammed. My plan is to sell my car as soon as I get it back from the shop. My advice for you is the same! I will never ever buy another VW again. Because since I have had my car, after buying it brand new in 2003 my car has been in the shop almost 30 times and that is not an exageration. Good luck!
The biggest headache with newer cars is that EVERYTHING is electronic and/or computerized. The alternator on my A4 went out while driving to work the other day and everything shut down one by one. In the end, the engine was still running, but the car would not even move because the throttle is electronic. 10 or 15 years ago if your alternator went out, you could keep driving...even maybe a day or two before you realized there was a problem. Even then, you probably think it was the battery or a solenoid. Not anymore. Batteries are not powerful enough to power modern cars without the alternator.
Since that first time it has happened a couple other times but only lasted a few minutes before I could start it again.
I got this car as a theft recovery (only have 1 key). When it was stolen they took the air bags. Over the past year I have noticed 2 intermittent problems that indicate a short somewhere in the dash/steering column. First:, once in a blue moon I'll turn the lights on and all the dash/panel lights will be out except for the lowest setting on the gauges. Then it will go back to normal a couple days later. Second: (this happened for several months then went away) Whenever I got out of the car after driving, when I touched metal I got shocked, strong enough that it really hurt sometimes. Like a static shock from carpet but much stronger.
I've talked to a couple service guys at VW and they're thinking it is the instrument cluster, where it supposedly all ties together, and estimating $700 to fix it. (ouch!) So I guess what I'd really like to know is if this sounds right. Someone else suggested the ignition "barrel" on the column where the sensor is. If it is the cluster what does it involve to replace it? I'm pretty good mechanically but never done much with inside electrical. I'm quite broke at the moment so any help is greatly appreciated.