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Some of the browser keywords I used were; oil, oils, lubricants, synthetics, viscosity.
I have uses Mobil 1 in a 93 Taurus since new. It now has 212,000 miles on it - uses about 1/2 quart of oil between changes. I change oil and filter every 6000 miles. I estimate that it has cost me an extra $500 over the life of the engine so far. That is a lot less expensive than an engine overhaul or a new engine. The best oil you can buy is a a low cost solution to longer engine life.
Car is doing fine, she is driving 90% in the city.
Engine is on for 20 minutes and off for an hour ,than again on and off, the worst kinda driving for the engine.She is also using her A/C a lot what puts even more presure on her already small 1.3 l. engine.
QUESTIONS ARE:
-WOULD YOU CHANGE TO SYNTHETIC WHEN THE ENGINE MAY BE PAST IT'S PRIME?
-IF YES ,HOW MANY QUARTS OF OIL 1.3 LITER ENGINE NEEDS?
I prefer Amsoil or Redline (Amsoil's cheaper). Both are fully synthetic. I'm no Chemichal Engineer, but from what I understand from my brother who is: Organic oils have carbon chains of varying lengths which break down over time. Regular synthetic oils (like Mobile One) take organic oil and process it. Amsoil and Redline start out as synthetic.
Besides, synthetics have much less coefficient of friction. This means more power and a slightly faster car!
So if the cost of synthetic is prohibitive, then perhaps you should consider "rolling your own" by blending in whatever percentage suits your needs.
Cheers,
TB
- - - - - - - -
Dear Mr. xxxxx,
You can start using Mobil 1 in new vehicles at any
time. In fact, Mobil 1 is the factory fill in
Corvette LS1, LT-1 and LT-5 engines. And Mobil and Porsche just announced a new partnership that will also have all Porsche cars manufactured
at the Zuffenhausen plant lubricated with Mobil 1.
One of the myths that persists about Mobil 1 is
that new engines require a break-in period with
conventional oil. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As the decisions by the engineers who design the Corvette and Porsche engines indicate, Mobil 1 can be used in an engine from the day you drive the car off the show room floor.
The “30” designation identifies that all three
grades (0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30) will exhibit the
same oil viscosity at normal engine operating
temperatures. The “W” designation identifies the
low temperature viscosity. A smaller number
indicates an ability to flow at lower temperatures. In summary, Mobil 1 0W-30 will
provide the correct viscosity protection at normal
engine operating temperatures, and BETTER
protection at low temperature extremes for any
vehicle that calls for a 5W-30 or 10W-30 engine
oil.
If you have any additional questions, you may
contact us at our E-mail address:
lubes@ffx.mobil.com or by phone at 1-800-ASKMOBIL.
oil in my vehicles,but I also use the amsoil air
and oil and the oil bypass filters.the air filter
traps more dirt than paper.I have researched the
oil filter and it traps from about 1 to 5 microns
the bypass goes down to one micron,and also adds
from one to three quarts extra oil which can help
on smaller engines.I've looked at the major
filter boxes and none ever have any micron rating
I think it is somewhere around ten.filtration is
the reason these oils can go 25k or one year.
p.s.(I'm not trying to sell amsoil here,just
trying to share knowledge.)
I do not think consumer report included them in the big oil test last year??
I have never seen any.
little giant ladder co.they have plenty of
testimonials about every one of their products,
I recently took the valve cover off my plymoth
neon with 82k,i could not get a smudge off the
inside cover,all components you could see did
not have any baked on oil at all,I have been
using 0w30 since 5k.I had a ford diesel F250
work truck that would go 20K per oil change,this
was determined by oil samples.
I don't know why I would want to switch back but it would be nice to know if I am making a permanent decision when switching to synthetics.
Jeff
-Chris
ps i use synthetics exclusively, except on my elderly caddy, because it WOULD leak, but that is because as gaskets age, they create pockets, and the synthetic will seep through old gaskets... the story you relate above is poppycock...
Will this cause any problems?
Thanks
I changed over to Synthetics in my 1994 Jeep Cherokee when it had about 60,000 miles. I have to be honest and say it has been great. We had a lot of Ice and Snow this past winter and with the Synthetic Oil, I didn't experience the usual Engine Knocking after having my Jeep sitting out in the freezing weather. Now that were in late Spring and have experienced some temps in the High 90's, I've noticed the engine temp has been cooler as well. I've used Dino for years but I'm now sold on the Synthetics. I also have extended my change over mileage to 5000 versus the 3000 I use to do with the Dino Oil.
As with everything you read in these Posts, only your own personal Experience will decide if it is worth the switch to you. Good Luck!
BigAl1
at 115,000,it runs fine.
I will probably make the switch.
That's my two cents.
i have used castol syntec for many years, but have already switched to mobil 1 in one vehicle, and will switch over to mobile 1 in my other car this month. it will be much cheaper, since walmart/kmart throws this oli on sale once in a while. has anyone heard anything positive or negative about pennzoil performax synthetic oil?
see ya,
lee
I switched to M1 at about 1k miles on my two new cars (Mazda MPV wi 5w-30 and Mazda Protege wi 10w-30.
The protege engine seems to run quieter, but the MPV has increased engine noise. My dad also reported increased engine noise in his Galant.
Sorry, I wouldn't know a valve rattle from a whatchamacallit, but increased rattle might characterize the sound best.
kmh3
INKY
use Mobil 1 but it is now 4.25 per quart and my
1988 T-bird burns about 2 quarts between oil
changes. I change oil and filter about 3-4K miles.
I switch to a full synthetic oil made by Proline
which I purchase at Pep Boys for 2.99 a quart. The
car to me runs the same but who knows what is
going on in my engine. I have 173000 miles and it
still runs strong, so if says it is a full
synthetic motor oil how different can it be from
Mobil 1?
Jim
Trooper
enough", I agree that many of us will not use our vehicles long enough to see the advantage
due to increased longevity. But if you take this approach you're still conveniently ignoring
for me the main issue: the "safety net" factor using synthetic
Let's take a specific.
In cold weather, the oil will be cold with increased viscosity. This can cause delayed oil circulation or abnormally low oil pressure for some time after engine start-up. This in turn can result in trouble in the system."
On large earthmoving equipment they then provide a table that states the tractor should be warmed up approximately 5 minutes if the temp is above 14F, 5 to 10 min between 5F and 14F, 10 to 20 minutes between -4F and 5F, and more than 20 minutes below -4F.
Now, if we use Shell's standard petroleum hydraulic 30-weight oil for comparison, it has a pour point of 25F, the premium anti-wear variety -10F,
while Amsoil synthetic of the same viscosity has a pour point of -47F. I won't insult your
intelligence by drawing any conclusions for you on this one. Regarding the importance of
cold-weather oil flow, Womack's "Fluid Power in Plant and Field", second edition, (all of
Womack's hydraulic books are great, BTW) says on page 109 "If the the hydraulic system is
exposed to extremely low overnight temperatures, the oil may become so thick that when
the pump is started in the morning it may be damaged by cavitation." And remember that
the -10F is the pour point of premium petroleum hydraulic oil, not the temperature at which it
will flow well enough to lubricate properly, etc. And the same safety factors exist on the high
temperature side of the range, they're just less likely to become involved in day to day
usage.
As for the question about 15W40 engine oil not meeting the manual specs of using 10W30
oil, you're absolutely right, in general. But you still have to look at the numbers behind the
ratings. The synthetic oil rated at 15W40 will far exceed the petroleum oil's characteristics at
either end of the rating and at either end of the temperature scale. Does that matter? You
make the call. It may not to you, but it does to me.
One more example: I've run VW diesel cars for the past 15 years (and Cummins-powered
trucks for the last 6) and I drive about 55,000 miles a year. Ask 10 mechanics who have any
experience with them what they think of them and about 3 of them will tell you they're lousy,
4 of them will say they're ok, and 3 will say they're great. But all of them will tell you that if you let one get hot, it's history. The heads warp. It's a weak spot in that engine. Well, I had
a hose blow right up by the temp sending unit while I was running 70mph down the Interstate
a few years ago. The temp guage never climbed, it actually went down, because all the water
blew out almost instantly. I got it so hot that it just shut off. The head was glowing a dull red.
All the grease and oil on the engine turned brittle and fell off. The engine had 197,000 miles on it at the time. The oil had been in the engine for a little over 45,000 miles, about 9 months. After it cooled off, I replaced the hose, filled the radiator, cranked on it for about 10
seconds, and it fired up and took off. Ran a little rough for a few minutes, but that was all.
My dad's driving it now -- it's got 309,000 miles on it and still gets 45-50 mpg. And the only
engine work it's ever had is changing timing belts. Nobody will ever tell me that it would have
made it if it had petroleum in it. Petroleum would have been flammable paste by then.
Please note here that I'm not trying to tell all of you that you should switch. It really doesn't
matter to me. I've got my reasons to use synthetic oils. Will it matter? I hope not. It's like an insurance policy: You place your bet and hope you lose. Ok, end of diatribe.
(I find no diff and feel the 5W30s do not protect as well) If cold starting in cold weather an issue use synthetic, flows down to minus 60 degrees F. Petroleum becomes honey at around minus 10F. Synthetics simply protects better at all times. Almost no cars today use a 10W40, mostly 0W30-10W30.
Just curios as my next oil change is coming up and I wanted to move on over to synthetic.