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Oldsmobile Alero Starting-Stalling Problems

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  • conley3conley3 Member Posts: 1

    I have a 2003 Olds Alero 2.2 ecotech. I have had trouble with the security system and have had to reset it by turning the key on for 10min. I always works for me. Last week my car would not start, it turned over and wanted to fire, but just wouldn't go. I had the battery checked and replaced, still the same thing, then I changed the spark plugs thinking it was flooded, still no change! I read some comments here and checked the fuel regulator, it was good, there was fuel pressure in the rails. I finally took the fuel relay out and started the car to run fuel out, then reconnected the relay and the car fired right up! Thank you to everyone who posts on here, it gave me ideas of what to weed out to find the issue.

  • tim618tim618 Member Posts: 0

    This is tbs10 not sure why but i couldn't sign in under that name- anyway I have an update with my alero stalling problem- it seems to be fixed! After changing the fuel regulator it still stalled, changed the battery, it still stalled, also changed the IAC valve. Finally Daniel said to change the ignition switch and that was it! Runs fine now and test drove for over an hour and no stalls, it was stalling between 20-25 minutes of drive time. Thank you so much for your input and I am so relieved to have this issue taken care of (knock on wood). In the last 6 months i have dumped parts in this car, and while I get great deals on parts (25-40% off) i was getting annoyed that the problem wasn't fixed. Things this car got the last 6 months:

    battery
    fuel filter
    spark plugs
    crankshaft position sensor
    tires
    fuel pump
    idle air control valve
    fuel regulator
    air filter
    brakes/rotors/calipers
    front wheel hubs
    shocks/struts
    starter
    tie rod ends
    ignition module
    ignition switch

    With all this I am hoping it will last another 100,000 miles with all the new parts.

    Thanks again!

  • gculpexgculpex Member Posts: 1

    tim618/tbs10 I got over 300,00 miles on my 2003 2.2L without half the stuff you replaced.
    Still, I'm very lucky to get this far.

  • wvpipvwwvpipvw Member Posts: 1

    I am having some difficulties with my 04 Alero. I think is is the security system but doesn't sound exactly like anyone else's problems.

    It is 2004 3.4 V6. The car starts fine cold and will drive for approximately 15-20 min and then while driving it shuts down. It will not restart for 30-50 min. No codes are thrown and the security light doesn't come on.

    Any help is much appreciated thanks!

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    That doesn't sound like a security issue actually. Not every component in a car throws a code, especially fuel system components. What you'll have to do to solve this is have you or a technician jump right on the car while it is misbehaving, to determine the cause of the no-start when it occurs. This might include a spark tester, fuel pressure gauge, NOID light (for injector pulse) and VOM meter.

  • jamessc56jamessc56 Member Posts: 2

    My Oldsmobile alero will stop working while I am driving it. This has happened to me twice now, even though it has at least half a tank of gas in it. Eventually, it will start back up, but I really don't want this to happen when I am on the way to work one day. When it stops, it usually takes 20+ minutes before it will start again. After this happens, the car will work fine for a couple of weeks, then it happens again. Also, some of the dashboard lights are always on, but the dealership told me that they couldn't turn them off but not to worry about it. Anyone else have a similar problem, and find a way to fix it?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited January 2016

    Sounds like you need to go to a mechanic who knows what he's doing---scan the car for trouble codes or, better yet, take the car and see if he can make it happen so that he can better diagnose it.

  • lovatokikolovatokiko Member Posts: 1
    ok first off I'd like to thank anyone who could answer my question in advance and hope that someone still looks at this post. My car is a 2004 Oldsmobile alero 2.2 ecotech. I've come in to a problem similar to everyone ones here but I wanted to share my experience.. So my car was driving just fine up until about 2 weeks ago. I would be driving down the interstate and it would just die all of a sudden. it would start up just fine and I would make it back home. So this goes on for a while but I noticed just in the day time but there would be no code present to give me any idea what the problem could be. So I changed the fuel pump thinking the heat was causing it to fail once I started it it ran fine but all of a sudden it shut off again this time much sooner and the service engine soon light came on. So I slowly make my way to the nearest autozone to use their scan tool and it came up with the code p0171. It said

    " fuel trim bank one condition explanation.
    the power train control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the air/fuel ratio of the engine. The computer has recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only. 
    Probable cause
    1 if bank one and two codes set together suspect fuel pressure or maf (mass air flow) sensor.
    2 oxygen sensor defective.
    3 ignition misfire repair
    4 fuel injector problems"

    i changed the oxygen sensors and nothing changed. I also changed the spark plugs and wires in case it was those causing the misfire. My car isn't equipt with a maf sensor so that rules out. And according to the forum in the past postings if you take the vacuum off the fuel pressure regulator and fuel comes out its shot and that's not the case. So if anyone can use this info o help me figure this out I would appreciate it. If need more info i will post what ever needed. 
  • bksmit40bksmit40 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 and am having similar problems. As far as I can tell right now it's not getting fuel and its not a security problem. The change oil light was the only thing that came on before it stranded me on the highway. But I will be looking into further. Hope to read more comments from someone that has gone thru this.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The 02 sensor replacement is a common misdiagnosis for the P171 code. P171 isn't an 02 sensor because your PCM already validated the 02 values before setting the P171 code. What it's seeing is a fuel mixture too lean, and it cannot compensate enough to correct the air/fuel mixture.

    The best way to approach this is to look at Long Term Fuel Trim data with the proper scanner, in at least 3 scenarios---idle speed, 3000 RPM unloaded and 3000 rpm with a load. Then look at the freeze frame data to see which one of these fuel trim levels failed and under what conditions.

    By the way, I think your car does have a MAF.

    You might also look for intake manifold leaks or other vacuum leaks, as well as a plugged EGR valve or a plugged fuel filter.

    If you can, buy or borrow a fuel pressure gauge to make sure fuel pressure is up to spec.

    ok first off I'd like to thank anyone who could answer my question in advance and hope that someone still looks at this post. My car is a 2004 Oldsmobile alero 2.2 ecotech. I've come in to a problem similar to everyone ones here but I wanted to share my experience.. So my car was driving just fine up until about 2 weeks ago. I would be driving down the interstate and it would just die all of a sudden. it would start up just fine and I would make it back home. So this goes on for a while but I noticed just in the day time but there would be no code present to give me any idea what the problem could be. So I changed the fuel pump thinking the heat was causing it to fail once I started it it ran fine but all of a sudden it shut off again this time much sooner and the service engine soon light came on. So I slowly make my way to the nearest autozone to use their scan tool and it came up with the code p0171. It said

    " fuel trim bank one condition explanation.
    the power train control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the air/fuel ratio of the engine. The computer has recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only. 
    Probable cause
    1 if bank one and two codes set together suspect fuel pressure or maf (mass air flow) sensor.
    2 oxygen sensor defective.
    3 ignition misfire repair
    4 fuel injector problems"

    i changed the oxygen sensors and nothing changed. I also changed the spark plugs and wires in case it was those causing the misfire. My car isn't equipt with a maf sensor so that rules out. And according to the forum in the past postings if you take the vacuum off the fuel pressure regulator and fuel comes out its shot and that's not the case. So if anyone can use this info o help me figure this out I would appreciate it. If need more info i will post what ever needed. 

  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,745


    The 02 sensor replacement is a common misdiagnosis for the P171 code. P171 isn't an 02 sensor because your PCM already validated the 02 values before setting the P171 code. What it's seeing is a fuel mixture too lean, and it cannot compensate enough to correct the air/fuel mixture.

    Correct, very good. Getting people to understand that a code does not tell you what part to replace, it tells you what test failed is the first step into understanding how to diagnose a problem with a vehicle.



    The best way to approach this is to look at Long Term Fuel Trim data with the proper scanner, in at least 3 scenarios---idle speed, 3000 RPM unloaded and 3000 rpm with a load. Then look at the freeze frame data to see which one of these fuel trim levels failed and under what conditions.

    Let's change that a little bit. To diagnose this he not only has to look at the long term fuel trim, he also has to add the short term trim trend to it under varying engine loads while monitoring fuel pressure. In an engine that is in control the short term trim should be moving +/- 5 counts. That means you can have moments that the short term trim can make the problem look a little less, or a little worse at times, but if you average the trend(s) and then add that number to the recorded long term trims then you get an indication of just how hard the computer is working to try and correct the air/fuel ratio.


    By the way, I think your car does have a MAF.

    Not this time, this is a speed density system so it uses a MAP. I looked it up before posting. There are so many variations out there it doesn't mater how much experience someone has, given enough chances you'll end up regretting trying to trust your memory all of the time.



    You might also look for intake manifold leaks or other vacuum leaks, as well as a plugged EGR valve or a plugged fuel filter.

    Now this "depends" on what was seen while recording and playing back the scan data during a failure event. If the problem occurs at low speeds but not heavier throttle its more common to expect a vacuum leak to be plausible on most engines. A MAP sensor however is measuring the manifold pressure and reacts to a vacuum leak by adding fuel just as if the throttle was opened a little more. A leak that disrupts just one cylinder is possible, but what happens then is that usually results in a misfire that is cylinder specific.

    EGR is out of the picture this time, it doesn't have one.

    A fuel filter issue will have a greater effect under higher engine loads when more fuel is required per second. Monitoring the fuel pressure is one way to see if this is occurring or not, a drop in fuel pressure under high demand points towards a fuel supply issue and a filter would be one of the potential suspects. To prove this without disassembly, measuring the fuel pump circuit current would reveal how hard the pump is working and also if the circuit has a connection issue or not which is still in play since testing that we are aware of hasn't ruled that out.



    If you can, buy or borrow a fuel pressure gauge to make sure fuel pressure is up to spec.

    Correct. That combined with scan data will allow for a decision point in the diagnostics. Potential causes not listed at this point include but are not limited to fuel quality/contamination/alcohol content, restricted injectors, sensor input issues, and PCM command circuit problems.

    So my car was driving just fine up until about 2 weeks ago. I would be driving down the interstate and it would just die all of a sudden. it would start up just fine and I would make it back home. So this goes on for a while but I noticed just in the day time but there would be no code present to give me any idea what the problem could be. So I changed the fuel pump thinking the heat was causing it to fail once I started it it ran fine but all of a sudden it shut off again this time much sooner and the service engine soon light came on. So I slowly make my way to the nearest autozone to use their scan tool and it came up with the code p0171.

    The problem right now is that without really testing completely before any repairs were done, it cannot be determined if you are still dealing with the original problem, a subsequent unrelated problem, or if in fact this is a problem that was added on top of the original one. You have an outline right now for the fuel control code and a proper routine requires that one concentrate on whatever problem is repeatable and confirmed. Anything that is intermittent beyond that must be attended to in the future only if necessary.


  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ah, it's the 3.4 that has the MAF then, as well as an EGR.
  • OK777OK777 Member Posts: 5
    I have alero 2004 with 99500 on it. Yesterday I was driving whole day and stopped by food store for about 20 minutes. After that, car wouldn't start. Four different people tried to jump start my car - nothing was working. It was late and dark, so I took battery, to check it in the morning,locked the car and got a ride to home. I was so pissed of, because my car is very well taken care of. I found this forum and read a lot. Today, I checked battery, it was just fine, still on varranty. I got back to my car, put back battery , tried every trick, you told on this forum. And opened owners manual. It said, in such situations, put key in ON position,wait until security warning stop blinking, then start the car .Worked perfectly. Turned the key and drove away.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, when the car goes mysteriously dead like that, one is always suspicious of the security system.

    I can't vouch for THIS FIX, but if it happens to you again, you might give it a read.
  • OK777OK777 Member Posts: 5
    My kid already called tow truck and made arrangements with mechanic, she was on the phone with her best friend,concerning current situation with my car. I remember her face expression, when car started.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't mean to be pessimistic, but you may be seeing this problem again.
  • OK777OK777 Member Posts: 5
    Forgive me, I learned it hard way. I didn't have a choice.
  • OK777OK777 Member Posts: 5
    So far, if security light would compromise ignition, I would know what to do.

  • OK777OK777 Member Posts: 5
    You have no idea, how pessimistic I am currently. My car starting after what I was going throw, it was a miracle.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well let's keep our fingers crossed.
  • mistismithmistismith Member Posts: 1
    I was driving my 2003 alero had it on Cruze control doing 60 lost power pull over and it died .. now it starts but dies out immediately I just replaced the fuel pump four days before this I have replaced the fuel filter I still can't drive it what is wrong with my car
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You should pull codes on the car and see what might be stored.
  • hoodlumzhoodlumz Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 alero, I have read all these but my security light does not come on but a couple seconds with all the other lights that come on when you try to start it. It hasn't died on me yet, but last night I came home and there was nothing wrong with it just like always( never had any problems with this car till now) then this morning I tried to start it up and it started for about 2 seconds then died with no odd lights on if they even came on. And my gas gage never moved when I tried to start it.
  • thedufftheduff Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Alero with the 2.2 eco-tech motor and 4 speed automatic, anyway a couplre of years ago I had the same problem it just would not start. Having turned a wrench earlier in my life I like to save money and do the repairs myself. Everything pointed towards the fuel pump so replaced it and it seemed to work fine for a short time then back to not starting, well it turned out to be the PCM (power control module) which is located about 6 to 8 inches back and up about the same from the hood release. I believe the module is around $300 to $400 dollars and then you have to have it programmed before you can install it. What was happening is it wasn't providing a constant 12 volts to the fuel pump relay, so wasn't getting any fuel, I couldn't afford to buy one so I bypassed the PCM I ran a wire from the positive side of my battery to a switch in the car and from the switch to the fuel pump relay which is in that black fuse box under the hood near the brakes master cylinder, I pulled the relay out and it has 4 prongs and if you were looking at it from the driver seat its the right front prong, I attached my wire to it and put the relay back in and it works great. Now my security light is coming on whils driving so I need to figure out whats causing that......hope this helps
  • thedufftheduff Member Posts: 2
    My "service engine soon" light has been on for a few months now and the code indicated a plugged catalytic converter, well if it were plugged eventually it would lose power and die but that hasn't happened. After checking everything I found where the air box mounts to the plenum the neck had which is rubber was turned under so that the engine was getting more air than it should have, so I'm wondering if the computer could have been over compensating by adding more fuel because it would have been running leaner. I fixed that in the hopes that would fix the service soon light but after clearing the code after a day its back on, so I'm wondering if it could have damaged the o2 sensor. When I last turned a wrench we didn't have all this junk on the engine. Anyway any ideas would be appreciated....thanks theduff
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Have you extracted any codes? What do they say?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,745
    theduff said:

    My "service engine soon" light has been on for a few months now and the code indicated a plugged catalytic converter,

    There is no code that indicates a restricted convertor (or exhaust). There is a code that indicates reduced catalyst efficiency, P0420.
    theduff said:


    When I last turned a wrench we didn't have all this junk on the engine. Anyway any ideas would be appreciated....thanks theduff

    It takes more than natural ability and some experience to work on today's stuff, continuing education is a must and it demands a daily effort by the technicians to try and keep pace.

  • CL_7CL_7 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2003 Oldsmobile Alero. I needed a car and got a great deal but got it cheap because it's not currently running. I don't have the money to blow at the dealership or on parts so I'm trying to narrow down the issue. Any help is appreciated. So when you turn on the key the security stays on solid, it does not go away no matter how long the key is on. I attempted the 10 minute waiting game in the ON position with no results and the security light stays solid. The car will attempt to start spraying starter fluid in it. All fuses seem to be intact except for one that says "starter" in the fuse box under the hood which has no connections in it and starter turns over fine. I am thinking its the fuel pump because I hear something under the hood but it doesn't sound like a fuel pump. I am not a mechanic and could really use some help with this car.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might borrow a scan tool or code reader and see what codes are present. If you get those, come back and tell us what they are.

    Sounds like a security system screw-up, but with limited info it's only a wild guess at this point.

    Have you tried any extra ignition keys that came with the car?



  • dolphigirldolphigirl Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Alero. I was driving home the other day, turned my turn signal on and the car completely died. I lost all power. Nothing works, no chance of turning over as there is no power. Battery was checked and it's fully charged. Any idea what is wrong?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No power to anything?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,147
    edited October 2018
    I would start by trying a second battery jumping the first one to see if there's any change. Battery failures can be insidious.

    Then I'd look for a corroded or broken ground cable from battery to engine, or battery to computer box, etc..

    If your car uses an aluminum post on the computer box as a positive jump connection..., I'd try loosening that and wiggling the cables compressed under it to get a fresh metal connection. Some of those have been known to corrode. The power from the battery positive cable goes there and another flat connector takes power to the various fuses.

    Remove the negative battery cable first before doing anything to avoid a short.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Roy2Roy2 Member Posts: 9
    Any body tell me why my alreo won't start keys been replaced fuel pump is good sensor been replaced not getting blue sparke from plugs it's a red or orange color turns over fine
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    How do you know the fuel pump is "good"? Did you measure fuel pressure?

    In any event, even if you have fuel to the fuel rail, the injectors might not be opening (injector pulse).

    Why don't you try some starting fluid in the air intake and see what happens?
  • Roy2Roy2 Member Posts: 9
    Yes tested it and tryed starting fluid
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    So, didn't fire at all with starting fluid?
  • Roy2Roy2 Member Posts: 9
    No 
  • Roy2Roy2 Member Posts: 9
    Would it be because of the weak spark
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Where are you picking up the spark to look at it?
  • Roy2Roy2 Member Posts: 9
    Spark plugs
  • Roy2Roy2 Member Posts: 9
    Just tryed starting fluid again just made a puff back out of flap on intake
  • Roy2Roy2 Member Posts: 9
    The only sensor that I haven't changed is crank shaft cams been replaced
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might pull a spark plug to see if it's wet with fuel. That might tell you something about what's going on. If they are dry, you might have an injector pulse problem.
  • Roy2Roy2 Member Posts: 9
    When I pulled one yesterday it was wet
  • Roy2Roy2 Member Posts: 9
    What happened we stopped and got gas filled up started drove home the 7 miles next day would not start
  • CefegCefeg Member Posts: 2
    I drive the 2003 Oldsmobile Alero. This morning I should go to job, but the car will not actually start, first time it only stays on for a 2 or 3 seconds. And that's it..... It sounded like the car was not getting any gas.

    I read a lot about security system. Great job, thank for posting it.

    So, when I turn on the key the security stays on solid all the time (the security light was not blinking), I have waited around 15 or 20 minutes.

    Anyone with similar experiences? Because of the coronavirus everything is closed (I mean mechanical garage, etc.) and I am totally frustrated with public transport (6 buses to work, round trip).
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