Is Castrol Syntec (Full Synthetic) as good as Mobile 1 or Amsoil? Does anyone have experience with Castrol Syntec? Will I be able to go 10,000 mile or 1 year oil change with Syntec?
Find a Car & Driver, Nov 2000 issue where they inform the reader that Syntec is not a synthetic oil, it is a hydrocracked highy refined petroleum oil. IMHO false and misleading advertising on the part of Castrol. Personally, I would not use it for 3000 miles as I do not support liars or misleading manufacturers.
It might not have been that bad had they lowered the price to be competitive with dinos, but to leave the price the same after the reformulation is just deception and bad business.
When I saw what Castrol was up to with their synthetic, I stopped buying their synthetic, their dead-dino GTX oil and even their excellent LMA brake fluid.
There are some excellent alternatives to all these products available and I, like armtdm, do not like to support companies that mislead the public as a matter of course.
By the way, Patrick Bedard's article is available on-line at www.caranddriver.com. (that URL might be wrong)
Scott, are you SURE that stuff is full synthetic ... or a synthetic blend? It's the new 5W20 oil, right?
All of this haziness and obfuscation from the supply side leads some of us to return to Dinosaur juice until further notice. Let me know when something/anything undeniable develops! HO! HO!
The only company obfuscating things is Castrol, and they have paid the price by losing thousands of potential (and loyal) customers who discovered their deception.
There is clearly more obfuscation on the dino juice front when you don't even know what you are getting in basestock quality or additives. Dino juice only has to pass the API test, and believe me, they formulate that stuff so it JUST meets the code and nothing more.
If you are talking basic risk factors in protection, I would have to side heavily in favor of synthetics, even if they are only ester blends.
Yeah, I think the consumption on the conventional oil side is way more that synthetics can ever hope to be, both % and volume. I mean if you were a seller, why would you want to sell one qt when 5 quarts will do (given 15k oil change interval vs 3k oil change interval.
Synthetic oil vs conventional oil is the concept that goes against the classic lie: "Build a better mousetrap and the world will beat a path to your door." I think fish moungers from New Jersey have better luck.
I've switched 2 manual transmissions to Castrol Syntec 75W-90 gear lube. A 1995 Saab 900SE V6 and a 1969 Corvette 350 w/4 spd Muncie. Both shifted much smoother after the change. The change was dramatic in the Corvette.
Yeah, I am thinking of switching the tranny fluid to synthetic. I am considering Mobil One, Redline, and Amsoil. The slight catch 22 for me is that the recommended manual transmission fluid change is pretty near 100,000 miles, but I have also read that most Vette owners have smoother shifting after the change to synthetic transmission fluid.
I changed all fluids front/rear punkin, transfer case, and transmission to Amsoil. I didn't really notice any better shifting (manual). But I'm happy with it because of the winter driving and cold morning. I heard from many folks that Red Line delivers smoother shifting. Don't really know for sure. Haven't used Mobil 1 in manual trans. I do have it in the auto and I really didn't notice any better shifting but the engine temperature runs cooler.
Really, it said never change the manual transmission fluid. Funny thing is after 90,000 miles it was extremely hard to shift.
Changed to synthetic (Quaker State) much easier, smoother too.
FWIW: Mobile One synthetic was the forerunner, and has the most extensive testing. I have a friend who runs Redline in his Jeep and loves it. but it's 8 dollars a quart.
Ever hear of Klotz? They make synthetic lubricants for motorcycles. After my bought-new 1999 Valkyrie (motorcycle) had 500 miles on it, I changed the rear hub gear lube (shaft drive hookup area) to Klotz SAE 90 "Flex Drive" Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lube. I ran a superb scientific test: I compared impressions of temperature of the hub after long rides. I did it before and after the change from Honda mystery juice to Klotz. My honest impression was (and is) that the hub runs cooler with Klotz. Years back, I used the same Klotz product in the differential of my 1981 Plymouth Sapporo by Mitsubishi. It is good stuff for any GL5 application using 90 weight. Amen. I am not sure, but I think Klotz markets synthetics for automobiles as well. I should look into that. It's at http://www.klotzlube.com
I am a loyal Amsoil user and tried the gear oil in my 6 spd tranny. Worked okay but not much different then the OEM. Still hard to shift when cold. So I went with redLine MT90. WOW, Definitely worth the 7.25/quart. Shifts much smoother overall and much easier when cold. Again, redLine seems to cater more to racing type of environments.
I'm currently using Redline motor oil ... and I cannot honestly tell whether it's any better than Mobil 1. The jury is still out ... which means the two are probably pretty close.
BUT
The product that made me even CONSIDER any other Redline product was their MTL. If you have a manual transmission, THIS is the stuff you want! I read about it in Road & Track and bought a couple quarts in 1992. My cars shifted MUCH better in the cold (little or no grinding in below-zero temps) and shifted more smoothly when warmed up.
Someone started a thread on a different board about "Miracle Products" about a year ago and along with the usual warnings and debate about Slick-50-type products, people began posting Redline MTL (or the slightly heavier MT-90) testimonials, describing it as an honest-to-goodness miracle product and one of the best kept automotive secrets today. I completely agree.
The cost is negligible as you only need about 2 quarts for most cars and the stuff doesn't have to be replaced often ... only about every 2-3 years. So what if it's $8-$10 per quart? How much will that cost you per year to use? $5-$7??
Compared to the cost of keeping a vehicle on the road for a year(thousands of dollars), this isn't even a drop in the bucket!
Actually, for my car the people using RedLine gear oil have had tremendous success mixing 50-50 of MT-90 with MTL. I went with the straight MT 90 with good success but next time will try the mix. I sitll use Amosil motor oil in all cars and teh gear oil in rear ends etc but RedLine for the tranny seems to be unbeatable
I visited this site, and discovered that the excellent Flex Drive product (GL5 synthetic hypoid) can be ordered for $9.70 per quart. I'm braced against the wall to keep from staggering under the heft of that price! Zounds!
armtdm, I'd use Redline MT-90 ... but only if I lived where it was warmer. It gets to -20F around here (Saratoga, NY) so I stick with their original MTL formula. Yes, it's thin, but I change it about every 40,000 miles ... probably long before I really have to.
Honda recommends an interval of 90,000 miles for their Honda MTF ... and I can't imagine how they could have come up with a better formula than Redline. There fluids seems like a friction modified mineral oil with lots of anti-wear additives like ZDDP.
Recommend in your manual if you are concerned about protecting your warranty. Well, I should say that if you are concerned about an argument over your warranty. If you manual says 7,500 then do that. After warranty up go 10-15,000 between changes
change filters at say 5K and oil at 10K. Document oil change at 5K and have receipts for the oil. If you have more than one car that's easy. Wait-I can't believe I said that-that's cheating!! I would never do that...uh
It also might not hurt to talk to the servide department of the dealer that is most likely to do the warranty service for your car. I did that with mine and the service manager said no problem whatsoever. Not only would they honor the warranty short of running the crankcase dry, They actually did the customer provided synthetic oil change in their shop. Of course what they didnt say is that you almost have a better chance winning a multi million dollar lottery than having oil related damage in your engine. But that warranty is a definite sales security blanket, so I understand the feelings. Incidently I do the 15,000 mile interval for over 500k miles (different TLC's for sure)
The point of all of this is that the synthetic offers me a solution. The solution is simple given superior lubrication over the life span of the oil, and all the technology and research, instead of 3000 mile oil changes, I can do 15,000 mile ones. In the context of 500,000 miles would you rather do 34 oil changes or 167? Your effort, your nickel. For the record, doing this has never resulted in damage of any type let alone damage due to oil related matters. Why do you think they offer the warranty for 36,000 miles? (Cause the likelihood of an oil related damage is next to nil.) Also MB and Corvette recommend 15,000 mile intervals. MB actually pays for the three oil changes (36,000 miles) And both the MB and Corvette use synthetic.
(.001904- .003128 cents per mile lubricated, synthetic vs .00334-.009352 cents per mile lubricated,conventional)
Mobile One itself says that you can go the full recommended drain interval. This is probably true. HOWEVER, if there is any engine problem that may be traced back to the oil the manufacturer will dump it completely on you if you go the Max length of oil changes. Why, because you didn't follow the recommended severe service guidelines. 5,000 miles may be a good compromise level depending on the type of driving you do. DON'T EXCEED THE RECOMMENDED TIME INTERVAL EITHER.
Now in my view, synthetic oil on a warranty covered car is just extra insurance. Not to extend the miles.
Do extended drain intervals and oil analysis if desired AFTER the warranty period.
Perhaps you and I have different definitions of insurance. If you experience an engine oil related failure during the warranty period the use of synthetic will not pay for the repair, i.e., insurance. And the same would be true for the conventional oil. The insurance would be offered by the manufacturing representative, i.e., warranty. To me, it appears that you are proffering higher operating costs in the guise of insurance or what might be otherwise called piece of mind. In that case, I would say if you have any doubt as to how long the engine will last, use conventional oil and flog that puppy to death and hope that the failure occurs during the warranty phase. In no way is synthetic oil the magic bullet, i.e., it can not and will not prevent engine failure due to poor manufacturing or quality control.
You're statement: "In no way is synthetic oil the magic bullet, i.e., it can not and will not prevent engine failure due to poor manufacturing or quality control."
For the most part I agree with, there is a lot of truth to it, yet I seem to recall of a situation, where synthetic oil proved to be the magic bullet, In one particular car the infamous YUGO, whose metals were of inferior quality and whose reputation proceeds itself. There was a study conducted by an independent lab, whose research explained why many of the YUGO'S were failing emission test in California, even though proper care was adhered to, particularly oil changes, that were performed every 5000 miles with Castrol GTX 20w-50 oil along with another named brand which escapes me at the moment, yet with only 32,000 miles they failed, reason for failure was attributed to inferior metal within the manufacturing process ie: bearings, rings, so on.
Of interest though, there were a number of YUGO'S that were fed a steady diet of synthetic and in effect outlasted the life expectancy of the car's design, and despite the inferior metals had reached 90,000 miles and passed California's stringent emissions with flying colors compared to lower mileage vehicles on conventional.
I guess at times synthetic could be called a magic bullet.
But we always hear "independent lab this" and "independent study that". But when it comes right down to it all we have is someone saying he saw this independent study that:..... Its kind like the "sludge board" where there is one or many posters (hard to tell if its the same person.)saying that their engine needs a "de-sludge" (whatever that is??) job that costs $1200 in parts and $2500 in laber. Its usually around that 4 grand number. BTW I'm not hammering you..I'm sometimes just looking for documentation. That bit of information would be great to see (about the Yugos) I'm doubtful why though an independent lab would be running a test on the longivity of Yugos using syn oils. Where did they find all those Yugos to conduct a test on??
Given the superior lubrication qualities of synthetic, what i was alluding to was whether or not you wanted failure on the manufacturer's nickel(36k) or your own in your example 90k). For me, it is clear that I would rather have it during the warranty period. Alas, I will have to pass on switching to Yugo's even with the superior lubricating qualities of synthetic oil.
Please, in all warranty situations where the delaer says the manual was not followed the manufacturer "must prove the oil failed to lubricate the engine" Failure to change it is not a reason to deny warranty!!!!!
Real proof that syn did such a feat would convince most anyone that syn is the way. Meanwhile, I'll keep up doing my part to deplete the oil reserves of the World, so that we can all be leveraged into synthetics. (:^]
I have a 1999 Mazda Protege and I live in Toronto, Canada.
I have been a regular user of Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil for the past 2 years.
Mazda recommends using 10W30 or 5W30 depending on the temperature.
I was wondering whether I could standardize on using either 5W30 or even 0W30 ALL YEAR ROUND without any negative effects on the engine and/or other parts. I just hate having to switch between 10w30 and 5w30
10W-30 pumps at -49F. Syns flow much better at low temperatures than conventional. I like the 10W because it gives me a little more protection during startup. I've started in-10F with 10W no problems. Depending on your climate you might feel more comfortable with the 5W. You could go with either all year around. Stay away from the 0W. The greater the difference between the two numbers ie. 0 and 30 the more additive is needed and the less of this additive the better.
No, I do not work for the oil industry and no you are not dense. In some ways using synthetic oil on a higher % scale would lessen the demand for oil, hopefully for obvious reasons. But despite how good the synthetic oil i,s on a logic level, it escapes me why it has not taken hold. The upshot is to bet on not only current use but increase use of conventional oil. The governments have already given billboard style hints that the price of gasoline will increase on the tax side so I can assume that they understand that the producer side will raise their prices also.
#1987 & 1988
I would also agree with #1988, but in your case, I know you can do the 5-30w Mobil One all year round. In the Toronto, CN weather there may be some marginal weeks where you would wish for or want the 0-30w. So the real issue is if you are doing preventative winter oil changes... 0-30W is obviously tailor made for the cold. Mobil One does have specification sheets on line. Also don't quote me but 5-30w has a pour temp of ? (-49 - -55 degrees F). While I personally have standardized on 5-30w and have run TLC's and a Corvette Z06 on the above in desert conditions and in snow country (Lake Tahoe CA) I have also run the Corvette on 10-30W simply because that weight was on sale at WalMart.
this is the response i rec'd from mobil regarding my query of using 1 oil wt all year round. according to them, 0w30 should be the best performer since all the "30" wt oils exhibit the same viscocity at normal operating temperatures.
pardon my ignorance here, but then shouldn't everyone be using 0w30 irrespective of temperature conditions instead of 5w30 and/or 10w30? i'm kinda confused here.
here's what mobil says ..
The "30" designation identifies that all grades (0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30) will exhibit the same oil viscosity at normal engine operating temperatures. The "W" designation identifies the low temperature viscosity. A smaller number indicates an ability to flow at lower temperatures. In summary, Mobil 1 0W-30 will provide the correct viscosity protection at normal engine operating temperatures, and BETTER protection at low temperature extremes for any vehicle that calls for a 5W-30 or 10W-30 engine oil.
-- The above information is provided in good faith based upon the information presented by the customer. ExxonMobil is not responsible for
any loss or damage resulting from inaccuracies or errors in any of the information provided or any acts or omissions taken in response to our advise.
"Within the above API Service Classifications, Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-30, Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 5W-30 and Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 10W-30 can be used anywhere an SAE 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, 5W, 10W, 20W, 20 or 30 grade viscosity is recommended. Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 15W-50 can be used where SAE 15W-40, 15W-50, 20W-50, 15W, 20W, 20, 30, 40 or 50 is recommended. Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-30, Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 5W-30 and Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 10W-30 improve fuel economy, exceeding the newest fuel efficiency rating, Energy Conserving. Their cold-temperature performance is superior to SAE 5W-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40 oils, easing the load on battery-started engines, especially at temperatures below -18°C (0°F)."...
"Comparison of Advantages
Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-30, Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 5W-30 and Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 10W-30: * Flow at -54°C (-65°F); pump at temperatures lower than similar SAE viscosity-grade conventional oils. * Save gasoline, exceed newest Energy Conserving Requirements."
Above are direct quotes from one of Mobil One's product data sheets. I would provide the link, but this Edmund's format indicates that this link is too long for prime time.
I personally have run 5w-50 in an older car and found that there is a possible 2% reduction in gas mileage over 10w-30. So it doesn't get any fuel savings over conventional oil. I feel comfortable running it in my Subaru for 2 reasons. 1. the Manufacturer's recommending running heavier weights at the heat increases. And, 2. This engine has over 100,000 miles and probably has some wear on the piston rings.
5W-30, and 10W-30 are usually listed as Energy Conserving. The heavier weights are not.
What does the manufacturer recommend for the vehicle?
...is that synthetics have not really taken the marketplace by storm for one major reason and several lesser reasons. The major one is PRICE. The remaining reasons seem to center around STANDARDS and STANDARDIZATION.
both are plastic. One costs $1.25 the other $4.00. Don't give him (her) too much credit for thinking about standards and standardizations (whateverr that means)
What percentage of the population uses either quicky-lube stations, dealers, and/or their family mechanic for an oil change? I'm sure it is quite high.
Now, of that crowd, how many actually know what oil is being put in their engine? My guess is NOT MANY.
Most people I know don't even know how to CHECK the oil, let alone what brand to use!
My manual recommend using 5-30, but the manual doesn't say anything about using a heavier weight once the car goes over 100K. Should I start using a heavier weight now that it over 100K? What weight should I used?
initially i used to go to my dealer for oil changes and routing maintenance. but now i get my oil changes done at walmart. i take my own oil (mobil 1 tri synthetic) and mobil1 oil filter and walmart charges me only for labour ($15 Cdn which is ~ $9 USD).
the main reason i do is is because i can see the technician working on my car and see that he is ACTUALLY putting the oil i gave him. in my dealers case, i wont be surprised if he pockets my oil and ends up putting his own stock oil.
bottomline ...by going to walmart, although i might not end up saving anything in terms of $$$, atleast i have the satisfaction of knowing that my car has mobil 1.
but for major service schedules (one involving suspension tuning etc) i prefer to go to the dealer for whatever it's worth ...but thats only once every 15 months (?) or so.
Has anyone used the Amsoil synthetic and their filter? Too, has anyone installed their dual filtrations system that is supposed to give extended life time to oil changes?
I use 0W30 Amsoil in one of my cars due to daughter having it in a slightly colder climnate but summers in Ric, VA are pretty hot. Change once a year and no problems with the 0 W so far. As to filters, I have also used the Amsoil for year, also recommend Pure Ones and Mobil 1. As to the second filter which does fitler down to 1 micron I beleive plus water I have never tried it, no place to put it on modern engines.
Comments
There are some excellent alternatives to all these products available and I, like armtdm, do not like to support companies that mislead the public as a matter of course.
By the way, Patrick Bedard's article is available on-line at www.caranddriver.com. (that URL might be wrong)
Scott, are you SURE that stuff is full synthetic ... or a synthetic blend? It's the new 5W20 oil, right?
--- Bror Jace
Castrol convinced a court that the oil was so altered that it deserved the name synthetic.
I saw an impressive ad on the Learning Channel from Castrol.
However I won't consider it when it is just as expensive as the real synthetic.
There is clearly more obfuscation on the dino juice front when you don't even know what you are getting in basestock quality or additives. Dino juice only has to pass the API test, and believe me, they formulate that stuff so it JUST meets the code and nothing more.
If you are talking basic risk factors in protection, I would have to side heavily in favor of synthetics, even if they are only ester blends.
Yeah, I think the consumption on the conventional oil side is way more that synthetics can ever hope to be, both % and volume. I mean if you were a seller, why would you want to sell one qt when 5 quarts will do (given 15k oil change interval vs 3k oil change interval.
Synthetic oil vs conventional oil is the concept that goes against the classic lie: "Build a better mousetrap and the world will beat a path to your door." I think fish moungers from New Jersey have better luck.
Oops!! And I bet you had good luck too! (LOL)
Yeah, I am thinking of switching the tranny fluid to synthetic. I am considering Mobil One, Redline, and Amsoil. The slight catch 22 for me is that the recommended manual transmission fluid change is pretty near 100,000 miles, but I have also read that most Vette owners have smoother shifting after the change to synthetic transmission fluid.
Changed to synthetic (Quaker State) much easier, smoother too.
FWIW: Mobile One synthetic was the forerunner, and has the most extensive testing. I have a friend who runs Redline in his Jeep and loves it. but it's 8 dollars a quart.
I don't think you can go wrong with synthetic.
SAE 90 "Flex Drive" Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lube. I ran a superb scientific test: I compared impressions of temperature of the hub after long rides. I did it before and after the change from Honda mystery juice to Klotz. My honest impression was (and is) that the hub runs cooler with Klotz. Years back, I used the same Klotz product in the differential of my 1981 Plymouth Sapporo by Mitsubishi. It is good stuff for any GL5 application using 90 weight. Amen.
I am not sure, but I think Klotz markets synthetics for automobiles as well. I should look into that. It's at
http://www.klotzlube.com
Again, redLine seems to cater more to racing type of environments.
BUT
The product that made me even CONSIDER any other Redline product was their MTL. If you have a manual transmission, THIS is the stuff you want! I read about it in Road & Track and bought a couple quarts in 1992. My cars shifted MUCH better in the cold (little or no grinding in below-zero temps) and shifted more smoothly when warmed up.
Someone started a thread on a different board about "Miracle Products" about a year ago and along with the usual warnings and debate about Slick-50-type products, people began posting Redline MTL (or the slightly heavier MT-90) testimonials, describing it as an honest-to-goodness miracle product and one of the best kept automotive secrets today. I completely agree.
The cost is negligible as you only need about 2 quarts for most cars and the stuff doesn't have to be replaced often ... only about every 2-3 years. So what if it's $8-$10 per quart? How much will that cost you per year to use? $5-$7??
Compared to the cost of keeping a vehicle on the road for a year(thousands of dollars), this isn't even a drop in the bucket!
--- Bror Jace
Honda recommends an interval of 90,000 miles for their Honda MTF ... and I can't imagine how they could have come up with a better formula than Redline. There fluids seems like a friction modified mineral oil with lots of anti-wear additives like ZDDP.
--- Bror Jace
The Pathfinder is now approaching 4,500 miles since the last oil drain. This question has most likely been asked many times but ...
AT WHAT MILEAGE DO MOST OF YOU PEOPLE RECOMMEND OIL DRAINS?
TIA
The point of all of this is that the synthetic offers me a solution. The solution is simple given superior lubrication over the life span of the oil, and all the technology and research, instead of 3000 mile oil changes, I can do 15,000 mile ones. In the context of 500,000 miles would you rather do 34 oil changes or 167? Your effort, your nickel. For the record, doing this has never resulted in damage of any type let alone damage due to oil related matters. Why do you think they offer the warranty for 36,000 miles?
(Cause the likelihood of an oil related damage is next to nil.)
Also MB and Corvette recommend 15,000 mile intervals. MB actually pays for the three oil changes (36,000 miles) And both the MB and Corvette use synthetic.
(.001904- .003128 cents per mile lubricated, synthetic vs .00334-.009352 cents per mile lubricated,conventional)
Now in my view, synthetic oil on a warranty covered car is just extra insurance. Not to extend the miles.
Do extended drain intervals and oil analysis if desired AFTER the warranty period.
Perhaps you and I have different definitions of insurance. If you experience an engine oil related failure during the warranty period the use of synthetic will not pay for the repair, i.e., insurance. And the same would be true for the conventional oil. The insurance would be offered by the manufacturing representative, i.e., warranty. To me, it appears that you are proffering higher operating costs in the guise of insurance or what might be otherwise called piece of mind. In that case, I would say if you have any doubt as to how long the engine will last, use conventional oil and flog that puppy to death and hope that the failure occurs during the warranty phase. In no way is synthetic oil the magic bullet, i.e., it can not and will not prevent engine failure due to poor manufacturing or quality control.
For the most part I agree with, there is a lot of truth to it, yet I seem to recall of a situation, where synthetic oil proved to be the magic bullet, In one particular car the infamous YUGO, whose metals were of inferior quality and whose reputation proceeds itself. There was a study conducted by an independent lab, whose research explained why many of the YUGO'S were failing emission test in California, even though proper care was adhered to, particularly oil changes, that were performed every 5000 miles with Castrol GTX 20w-50 oil along with another named brand which escapes me at the moment, yet with only 32,000 miles they failed, reason for failure was attributed to inferior metal within the manufacturing process ie: bearings, rings, so on.
Of interest though, there were a number of YUGO'S that were fed a steady diet of synthetic and in effect outlasted the life expectancy of the car's design, and despite the inferior metals had reached 90,000 miles and passed California's stringent emissions with flying colors compared to lower mileage vehicles on conventional.
I guess at times synthetic could be called a magic bullet.
Given the superior lubrication qualities of synthetic, what i was alluding to was whether or not you wanted failure on the manufacturer's nickel(36k) or your own in your example 90k). For me, it is clear that I would rather have it during the warranty period. Alas, I will have to pass on switching to Yugo's even with the superior lubricating qualities of synthetic oil.
And as you and folks like you do that, let me thank you all for sending my kids to b school and med school!!!
I have been a regular user of Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil for the past 2 years.
Mazda recommends using 10W30 or 5W30 depending on the temperature.
I was wondering whether I could standardize on using either 5W30 or even 0W30 ALL YEAR ROUND without any negative effects on the engine and/or other parts.
I just hate having to switch between 10w30 and 5w30
Thanks in advance for any responses !
No, I do not work for the oil industry and no you are not dense. In some ways using synthetic oil on a higher % scale would lessen the demand for oil, hopefully for obvious reasons. But despite how good the synthetic oil i,s on a logic level, it escapes me why it has not taken hold. The upshot is to bet on not only current use but increase use of conventional oil. The governments have already given billboard style hints that the price of gasoline will increase on the tax side so I can assume that they understand that the producer side will raise their prices also.
#1987 & 1988
I would also agree with #1988, but in your case, I know you can do the 5-30w Mobil One all year round. In the Toronto, CN weather there may be some marginal weeks where you would wish for or want the 0-30w. So the real issue is if you are doing preventative winter oil changes... 0-30W is obviously tailor made for the cold. Mobil One does have specification sheets on line. Also don't quote me but 5-30w has a pour temp of ? (-49 - -55 degrees F). While I personally have standardized on 5-30w and have run TLC's and a Corvette Z06 on the above in desert conditions and in snow country (Lake Tahoe CA) I have also run the Corvette on 10-30W simply because that weight was on sale at WalMart.
according to them, 0w30 should be the best performer since all the "30" wt oils exhibit the same viscocity at normal operating temperatures.
pardon my ignorance here, but then shouldn't everyone be using 0w30 irrespective of temperature conditions instead of 5w30 and/or 10w30?
i'm kinda confused here.
here's what mobil says ..
The "30" designation identifies that all grades (0W-30, 5W-30, and
10W-30) will exhibit the same oil viscosity at normal engine operating
temperatures. The "W" designation identifies the low temperature
viscosity. A smaller number indicates an ability to flow at lower
temperatures. In summary, Mobil 1 0W-30 will provide the correct
viscosity protection at normal engine operating temperatures, and BETTER
protection at low temperature extremes for any vehicle that calls for a
5W-30 or 10W-30 engine oil.
--
The above information is provided in good faith based upon the
information presented by the customer. ExxonMobil is not responsible for
any loss or damage resulting from inaccuracies or errors in any of the
information provided or any acts or omissions taken in response to our
advise.
Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-30, Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 5W-30 and Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 10W-30 improve fuel economy, exceeding the newest fuel efficiency rating, Energy Conserving. Their cold-temperature performance is superior to SAE 5W-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40 oils, easing the load on battery-started engines, especially at temperatures below -18°C (0°F)."...
"Comparison of Advantages
Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-30, Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 5W-30 and Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 10W-30:
* Flow at -54°C (-65°F); pump at temperatures lower than similar SAE viscosity-grade conventional oils.
* Save gasoline, exceed newest Energy Conserving Requirements."
Above are direct quotes from one of Mobil One's product data sheets. I would provide the link, but this Edmund's format indicates that this link is too long for prime time.
5W-30, and 10W-30 are usually listed as Energy Conserving. The heavier weights are not.
What does the manufacturer recommend for the vehicle?
The remaining reasons seem to center around STANDARDS and STANDARDIZATION.
Don't give him (her) too much credit for thinking about standards and standardizations (whateverr that means)
Now, of that crowd, how many actually know what oil is being put in their engine? My guess is NOT MANY.
Most people I know don't even know how to CHECK the oil, let alone what brand to use!
once the car goes over 100K. Should I start using a heavier weight now that it over 100K? What weight should I used?
but now i get my oil changes done at walmart.
i take my own oil (mobil 1 tri synthetic) and mobil1 oil filter and walmart charges me only for labour ($15 Cdn which is ~ $9 USD).
the main reason i do is is because i can see the technician working on my car and see that he is ACTUALLY putting the oil i gave him.
in my dealers case, i wont be surprised if he pockets my oil and ends up putting his own stock oil.
bottomline ...by going to walmart, although i might not end up saving anything in terms of $$$, atleast i have the satisfaction of knowing that my car has mobil 1.
but for major service schedules (one involving suspension tuning etc) i prefer to go to the dealer for whatever it's worth ...but thats only once every 15 months (?) or so.