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Thanks in Advance
Thanks!
Car_man
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Thanks. I had seen this info posted previously. Do these rates and residuals apply to the 2.5 S and 2.5 SL?
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Thanks for the feedback. Your comments were for the RL. I was asking about the TL. Any change in your thoughts or same?
Thanks again.
Never leased before, so I would love any help.
Here are the terms they offered: 62% L.E.V., 36 months, MSRP $33,170, Lease Factor .0024, 10,000 Miles a Year, Security Deposit $500, Trade In $3000 (for 95 BMW 318ti), $2284 Down. Monthly Lease (w/Tax) $345.
Does this seem fair?
I'm wondering if they're high on the Lease Factor and low on the price reduction from MSRP.
Also is a $725 Assignement Fee/$249 Processing Fee too high?
I am planning on leasing a Honda Odyssey EX-L. I have called/emailed a number of dealers. Some dealers use Honda Financing numbers for MF and Residual amounts. Other dealers have a data base of many banks to choose from and have given me lower MF and and higher residual amounts.
My question: In leasing from a Honda dealer, is there an advantage in getting a Honda Financing lease instead of a bank lease? Are there pitfalls I should be aware of when going outside Honda Financing. The dealer will be the one handling the transaction and suggesting the bank.
Also, how much negotiation room is there in the MF of Honda Financing? What is the dealer buy rate?
So the money factor is 0.0002 for 2004 and 0.00220 for 2005? not to mention the MSRP of the 05 has gone up for $1200. That's about 10times more on interest?
Actually this is the first time i plan on leasing a car, after reading this forum for over half an hour, i found out that the money factors usually go down during the end of year. Do you think November and December is the best time to lease a car? if not, pls advise when would i get the best deal in a year? I wanted to get rid of my 90 corolla that started to give me troubles recently.
Can you help me find out the money factor and residual for the Mercedes Benz C230K Sport Sedan?
term would be 36, 39, or 42 months 10k/yr
do you remember when's the last time Mercedes Benz offered special lease rate? e.g. below 4.99% (0.0020)
I always think that the Mercedes is more expensive to own than a BMW. Also is Mercedes offering the same thing as putting 1 extra security deposit will bring down the money factor by 0.0001, any limit?
Thank you for your help
$1,500 over invoice is an OK price for the TL, but if you are in an area where there is a decent amount of competition for your business you should be able to do better than that by shopping around. Let's work up a sample lease payment on this car using that price and see what see come up with. According to my calculations, if you were to lease a 2005 Acura TL with navigation (MSRP: $34,900 / cap cost: $31,800 invoice + $1,500 = $33,300) through American Honda Finance Corp. right now for 3 years with 15,000 miles per, your zero down, pre-tax monthly lease payment should be right around $494. As you can see, the payments that you were quoted look to be a little on the high side to me. At lease signing, you should only have to pay this car's first month's payment, a security deposit of that payment rounded up to the nearest $25 increment, and AHFC's acquisition fee of $595. If you were able to negotiate a lower selling price, say $1,000 over invoice, it would drop the payment for an otherwise identical lease to around $488. A selling price of $500 over invoice would drop it to around $464.
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Lease acquisition fees are set by the bank that you are leasing your vehicle through and individual dealers do not have the authority to waive them. American Honda Finance Corp.'s base acquisition fee for leases in your state is currently $595. If you are being charged any more than this, your dealer may be trying to pad this fee to add additional profit to your deal.
The two most important numbers to focus on when negotiating a lease are the vehicle's selling price and its lease money factor. The selling prices of leased vehicles can be negotiated, just as if you were paying cash for them. You definitely need to know what price you are being charged for the vehicle that you want to lease because without this number it is difficult to see what sort of a deal you are getting and tough to calculate a sample lease payment on it. With a brand new vehicle like the 2005 Odyssey, you will probably have a tough time negotiating a significant discount at this time but you need to know the selling price to be able to tell exactly what sort of a deal you have been quoted.
The money factor that is being used to calculate your lease is important as well because many banks give dealers the ability to mark-up their base lease money factors to add additional back-end profit to deals. I doubt that Honda is providing any sort of lease support on the '05 Odyssey at this time. If this is the case and you were to lease one through AHFC, you would have to use its standard lease money factors. Its current base standard money factor for 3 year leases is .00250. Make sure that you are not being charges any more than that.
Well, this post should answer a number of the questions that you have about leasing, but please let me know if you think of any others.
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Most dealers charge some sort of doc fee on deals. This number is not much more than a way for them to pad their profits, but it is acceptable as long as you know this, the fee isn't too high, and the overall price that you were quoted, including the fee is less than or equivalent to what you would have to pay to purchase a similar vehicle at another local dealership. The $249 "Processing Fee" and $725 "Assignement Fee" add up to almost a thousand dollars in dealer fees, which is way too much to pay.
Another problem that I have with this deal is that BMW Financial Services' base lease money factor for this car is currently only .00220. You were quoted a money factor of .00240 without any sort of waiver of BMW FS' security deposit requirement. This means that the dealer that you are working with is probably marking-up BMW FS' base factor to add additional back-end profit to your deal.
You never mentioned this car's selling price in your post, but this is probably the most important number to know when negotiating a lease. The selling prices of leased vehicles are negotiable, just as if you were paying cash for them. Without knowing this number it is difficult to tell how much money you are paying for the car that you want and to calculate a sample lease payment on it. When negotiating this car's selling price, keep in mind that BMW is currently giving its dealers $1,500 dealer cash on the 2004 325i. This money will help you to negotiate an attractive selling price on this car, probably one that is $500 to $1,000 below invoice.
As you can see, I personally have a number of problems with this deal. Let me know if you have any other questions.
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AHFC's base lease standard lease money factor is currently .00250. I doubt that it is providing any sort of lease support on the 2005 Odyssey, so this is probably the factor that you would have to use to lease one through it at this time. This factor is not negotiable in that dealers are not allowed to use a lower factor than the published one. However, it is important to make sure that the dealer that you are working with is not marking-up a vehicle's published money factor to add additional profit to your deal.
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I thought the deal stunk as well.
FYI, the quoted purchase price was 31,170. However, the quote only reflected $1000 in "Cash Cap. Reduction" which I assume is the $1500 BMW incentive.
I don't take that to be too bad of a price if the full $1500 is passed through.
You add in the full $1500, reduce the doc fee by $500 and reduce the money factor to .0022, then am I in the place I need to be?
One question, does the base rate .0022 get reduced if a security deposit is put down? Thanks for all your help.
Terry.
Thanks. I calculated the residual value - 61 + 2 for 12,000 miles, divided by 36 the depreciation, multiplied the entire cap cost (even at MSRP + delivery and prep) and added tax. So how come my numbers are $50 less than all my quotes? 436 vs. 486? (or $17 more a month with acquisition cost added in) No other missing numbers that I know of.
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One dealer faxed me the "motor vehicle worksheet." Included in it is the "monthly lease fee" which adds total capitalized cost AND depreciation then multiplies it by the money factor, .00250. Is this a scam? Isn't this double charging? Boy, this is frustrating.
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I'm looking into leasing a 2004 Honda Civic EX (4 doors, auto, side airbags). I'm waiting for some quotes from local dealers, but in the mean time I was wondering if you knew AHFC's base lease money factor for this car.
Also, does that money factor vary depending on the length of the lease (I'm assuming the answer is no)?
Finally, I believe Honda has a Marketing Suport incentive going for the 2004 Civic EX sedan ($1000?) - can you confirm if this is the case?
Thanks!
Thanks for your response. I have read Calculate your Lease Payment. The only thing that is different than my calculation is that when doing the finance fee, instead of multiplying the money factor rate with the cap cost, he multiplied the rate with the cap cost + the residual amount. Thus it was .00250 x $53,547.80 (33,129.50 [cap plus tax] + 20,418.30 [residual value]) giving $133.87 instead of .00250 x $33,129.50 = 82.82.I just want to know if this is legitimate or just another way to raise the amounts.
1) Cap cost and residual are added together to come up with an "average" amount of principal to base the finance charges on.. What the calculation really does is adds them together, then divides by two.
2) Instead of actually dividing that amount in half, they make the money factor half of what it would normally be.. Just to simplify the calculations.
3) This is why to get an equivalent interest rate, you multiply the money factor by 2400 instead of 1200.
4) So, to make it clearer... they could add them together, then divide by two... but then the money factor would be .005, instead of .0025
As an example.. You pay $30K for a car and its residual at the end of lease is $20K.. Assuming that the depreciation goes down in a straight line, then the average money borrowed is $25K for the term of the lease.. Instead of adding the two numbers and dividing by two to come up with that figure, they just cut the multiplier (the MF) in half, saving a calculation on the dealer/customer end. Not that they are using pencil and paper like you are...they are just plugging the numbers into a computer program...
Hope this helps... Just wanted to affirm for you that you are only paying interest on the average of the cap cost and residual, not on the total.
regards,
kyfdx
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Terry.
I need your help. I want to lease the Infinity Q56, Nissan Armada, or Lexus Gx. I have never leased before. I want to get rid of my Lexus RX 300. I am scared out of my mind. I need some direction and help. I read some of the other messages and it is all foreign to me. I know what payment i can afford per month but i have no idea where to start. Dealers are probably offering deals because it is the end of the year..... HELP
Apri
AprilSocarras@msn.com
I have an offer for a 2004 Murano SL AWD MSRP 35010 for 42 months, 12K mi and $500 down for $359+tax(6.75%) etc. Bumped it up to 15k and 600 down for $406 out the door. The extra 100 down lowered the payment from $416. I'm not sure of the selling price and money factor. I'm new to leasing and need some help.
Also, in 2 cases, the dealers says they are going through Honda Financial, the MF is the same, but the residual amount they are quoting me is different. How can this be?
Also, if the dealer is quoting me with Honda Financial numbers, should I push them to check other banks also?
Thanks again.
Translation: not everyone qualifys for special factory lease and finance rates .. so, any smart dealer will have "at least" 2 or 3 other lenders to fall back on if the manufacturer declines the loan or lease contract ...
A good example would be the 72 month GM/Ford programs they ran last month .. 500,000(?) applications and less than 70,000 were approved - the point, most people "think" they have excellent credit when they have less than average .. thats why most dealers will have a potpourri of banks they can reach out too to get an approval ..
Terry.
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"Finding the interest amount is the second half of the calculation. Interest on a lease is computed in a weird way. You add the negotiated price of the car to the residual value and multiply this by the money factor.
($20,000 + $13,110) X .0037 = $122.50"
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