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Does it sound like it would be a good idea to buy it and has anyone else had luck getting nissan to negotiate the buyout price?
Do you have the 36 & 48 residuals for the Civic EX?
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Once your friend knows exactly how much money it will cost to buy this car, she needs to compare that figure to its current value. She should be able to get a decent idea of what this car is currently worth on the open market by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. She also should stop by the "Real-World Trade-In Values" discussion that appears here in the Smart Shopper Forum. One of our most knowledgeable community members, Terry, hangs out in that area and he is often kind enough to give consumers his opinion on their vehicles' value.
If your friend has enjoyed driving this car and the difference between its purchase price and actual value after taking the excess mileage charge that she would have to pay if she was to turn it in into account is reasonable then she may want to consider buying it. However, if the purchase price is much more expensive than this car's current market value then she may just want to turn in the car and walk away.
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Yes the closing certificates are different than the straight dealer cash that Infiniti is providing on the '04 G35 AWD. If I am not mistaken, the certificates can be used in conjunction with IFS' lease program, while the regular dealer cash can not. These certificates were only issued on AWD models.
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I definitely would not put the money from your trade-in down on a lease of this truck if I was in your situation. I always advise consumers against making any sort of down payment when leasing. I do so for two main reasons. The first is if your vehicle is totaled in an accident or stolen during your lease, your insurance company pays off the bank that you were leasing it through and your down payment essentially disappears. The second main reason is that down payments on leased vehicles do nothing to reduce their lease-end purchase prices. So your lease-end purchase option price for this QX56 would be exactly the same, regardless of whether you had put $8,000 down, or had made absolutely no down payment at all. You should be much better off taking the eight grand from your trade and using it to supplement or make some of this truck's lease payments.
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Looking at a '05 Lexus IS 300 E-shift; Options are Lthr & Alcan Pkg, Htd seats, Spolier, Skid Control.....Total MSRP is 33645, lets say we can get it for 30600. Can you give me the resid. and money factor for 36 mo. 15k/yr. Assume $0 down, tax in NJ is 6% can you give me an idea what the monthly would be?
If there are better combos like 39 months let me know. I told my wife we can't do anything until we hear from you!! You've been very helpful in the past. Thanks again!
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Can the acquisition fee be negotiated down or eliminated?
My guess is "no" and that the banks charge this fee and is not controlled by the dealer so it cannot be negotiated.
My lease is through US Bank for a Southern California market.
Thanks!
One thing that I noticed about this deal is that you were quoted a lease money factor of .00194. Infiniti Financial Services' October base lease money factor for this vehicle is .00179. There are only two reasons why the factor that is used to calculate your payment on this model would be higher. The first is if you were to have its lease security deposit waived. IFS' will waive its security deposit requirement on leases in exchange for an increase of .00015 in the money factor that is used to calculate its monthly payment. Looking at the money due at lease signing in the deal that you were quoted, it does not look like this is happening here. The second and most likely explanation for why you were quoted a higher money factor for this model is that the dealer is marking-up IFS base factor to add additional back-end profit to your deal. Dealers are allowed to add up to .00125 to most of IFS base money factors. In exchange for this mark-up they get a kickback from IFS. This sort of thing is completely legal and happens all the time, but it can be prevented if you know what a vehicle's base money factor is. If I was in your situation, I would insist that they use the base factor or buy-rate to calculate this model's lease payment.
Let's work up a sample lease payment on this vehicle using the payments that you provided in your post and its base lease program. According to my calculations, if you were to lease a 2004 Infiniti FX35 AWD with an MSRP of $45,540 and a selling price of $40,914 through Infiniti Financial Services this month for 36 months with 12,000 miles per, its zero down, pre-tax monthly lease payment should be around $547. The payment for an otherwise identical 39 month lease should be around $525. The payment for an otherwise identical 42 month lease should be around $516. On all of these deals, at lease signing you would have to pay the first month's payment, a security deposit that is equivalent to that payment rounded up to the nearest $25 increment, and IFS lease acquisition fee which is $795 in New York.
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While it is difficult to predict what automakers will do with their future incentives programs with 100% accuracy, if I was in the market to lease an '04 Civic I would do so today rather than waiting for the November program to take effect. I say this because AHFC's residual values for the '04 Civic will likely be several points lower in November. Honda would have to significantly increase its dealer cash on this car to offset this drop in residuals and I doubt that will happen.
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Thanks
I will try my best to get a right numbers.
Is this true that dealer can add back-end profit on documetation fees? How much are they approximately?
Tnank again.
I'm considering a lease on a Audi A8L and would like some helpful suggestions. I'm starting from scratch with no experience leasing (I've always purchase my cars) so excuse the ignorant questions. I've been in business for self for several years and have always purchased high end cars and now want to lease for business expense related purposes. Below is the information I have provided thus far on the car offered by a local dealer:
Audi A8L 2004 (18,232 miles)
Sell Price: $59,995
Lease options quoted (based on 10% down)
36 month: $867.00/month
39 month: $816.00/month
48 month: $782.00/month
I'm unsure of the factors that were used to quote this information and would like to know the right questions to ask in order to check and negotiate a lease.
Can you review and please provide me with a place to start?
Thanks....
I picked up a 05 Subaru Legacy 2.5i on Sat.
The MF was 0.00130 on the Legacy. They showed
me the actual sheet from Subaru. Only the Impreza
had a MF of 0.00080.
Tony
Thanks!
Thanks in advance for your advise.
I'm a Mr. Mom operating a very small (just me) consulting LLC. I use our 2000 Honda Odyssey minivan to visit clients about 25% of the time while personal use makes up the difference. My wife, the money maker of the family, drives a 2001 Honda Civic to and from work every day. Annual mileage on each car is less than 10k.
Now the question...would it benefit me to sell the minivan and lease a new Volvo XC70 or purchase it outright without getting my LLC involved?
Again, thanks.
Anyway .... these are wonderful vehicles, but it seems your trying to lease a pre-owned A8L .. not only is it pre-owned, but it's a high-mileage pre-owned A8 ... $59,900.? too much, $58 would be the "end of the World" for 18k - plus the rate and the residual is already spent ....
If leasing is your gig, then you need to be looking at a new one, and $6,000 down is c-r-a-z-y .. no matter what you lease, whether it's be a Cavalier or a SL500, you need to keep the money to a minimum - all it does is lower your payment, nothing else .. so if the vehicle gets stolen, wrecked, damaged, traded, sold, then you will see -0- out of your $6,000 .. actually, less than -0-...
I'm sure Car_Man can give you an idea on the "new" figures .......
Terry.
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You never mentioned in your post whether this A8 is a "new" demo vehicle or a used one. If it is still technically considered to be a new car, I would be more than happy to work up a sample lease payment on it using Audi Financial Services' lease program for you. However, in order for me to do so, I need you to tell me its full MSRP and how many miles per year you need to be able to drive it. This is an important number for you as a consumer to know anyhow because the selling prices of leased vehicles can be negotiated, just as if you were paying cash for them. Without knowing the full MSRP of the car that you want to lease it is difficult to tell what sort of a discount you are getting on it. Also, keep in mind that it is never in one's best interest to make a substantial down payment when leasing.
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Four years ago when I originally leased my camry from the local toyota dealer here in kendall, miami, I was promised many things that were not true. Now that my lease ends next week, I am concerned about being charged extra fees or some hidden costs besides the disposition fee, I am going to be 1,000 miles under the limit and the car is in good condition, any advice on how to protect myself from SE Toyota and their dealer trying to squeeze more money yet from me after they charged me 13% on a 4 year lease?
regards,
kyfdx
(not the expert)
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I'm assuming you leased through NMAC and have GAP insurance.. If that is the case, hope that your car gets totaled.. then, you will be out of it.
Assuming it has to be fixed, and you will get it back: Treat it just like you owned it.. make sure it is fixed at a top-notch body shop with new parts... and, you should be fine..
Our '01 Accord was rear-ended to the tune of $9K, when it only had 11K miles. When the lease was up after three years, we just turned it in and walked away. They cannot charge you at lease turn-in, because of body work on the vehicle, assuming it was repaired correctly. Any diminished value will be their problem, not yours.
I know it is disheartening to have a vehicle severely damaged shortly after acquiring it, but be glad you leased it... If you owned it, you could sell it, but you would be out thousands of dollars in diminished value, even if it was fixed perfectly.
regards,
kyfdx
(not the expert)
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They will basically payoff your loan, but will then add that into the lease deal somewhere. I wouldn't recommend it. Not only will you end up paying a lot more than the $3,000 difference, you'll be at the mercy of the dealer which isn't a good thing.
Your absolute best case scenario would be to sell the car for closer to your loan payoff and you'll have to cover the rest out of your pocket. If you have zero cash to work with, I would highly recommend you not get yourself into another car payment.
And one more question.
All my conversation with dealership are going through email. Last email when I mentioned that they gave me .00194 MF instead of .00179 they answered they quoted me with security deposit waived and simply made an error.
My question: Is it better insist on base MF or go as-is with security deposit? My thoughts are go with base MF and security. Am I right?
Thank you very much again.
He learned that the universe of people who buy high end luxury cars is small. The universe of buyers who would consider used is smaller still. Someone who will spend $60,000 on a vehicle usually is a new car buyer. Hence, there is a buyers' market for vehicles that are still that expensive and used. I presume if you buy one and decide you should have bought the BMW 7, you are going to be hurt selling the A8 after only a year. If a buyer breaches the lease or loan agreement, the bank may be bleeding, too. Either way the buyer of the car used should be smiling.
Long story short, I'd bet you can do better on the selling price.
Others have already said to put as little down as possible on a lease. Perhaps, you can use a third party lease company that will buy the mv at a discounted sales price and lease it to you.