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Synthetic motor oil

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  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    Is anyone familiar with the Magnuson Moss Act? It has provisions that say that if a manufacturer wishes to require a particular brand of maintenance "parts" be used in order to keep the product's warranty in force, the manufacturer must supply those parts at no charge to the consumer. So, I'd challenge any Corvette owners who think they are required to use Mobil 1 to go to your Chevrolet dealer and request your free oil so you can an oil change. Let me know what happens....

    Now, the manufacturer can apply for waiver from this provision via the Federal Trade Commission, so you may want to see if that has been done. That would allow them to require a particular brand of oil without having to give it away. Don't think this is the case here, however.

    So, since most car manufacturers don't want to get into the business of handing out free oil, they make requirements based on API (American Petroleum Institute) classifications.
    http://www.api.org/programs_services/quality/oilchart.htm

    The current classification is SJ for gasoline powered passenger vehicles. Virtually all dino and synthetic motor oils marketed today satisfy that standard.

    So, how exactly can a manufacturer require a synthetic oil?
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    "So, how exactly can a manufacturer require a synthetic oil?"

    By specifying 0W-30 viscosity oil. :-)

    I think any argument over whether synthetic IS required is pointless. As armtdm pointed out, if you change every 3k miles, it doesn't really make a difference which you use. If you want to go longer, you need an oil that will last longer. 3k miles doesn't get me through the winter.

    And since gas is an order of magnitude more expensive than oil/filter changes, the extra cost per change is insignificant.
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    $1.50?

    Expensive dino!
  • tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    Well at $1.00 it is still only about $11.00 difference, and and $1.25 the difference is about $9.50, bottom line. Even at double the price for synthetic, or heck even free dino oil, that hour saved is more valuable than the cost of the synthetic oil.

    As I clearly stated Your Mileage May Vary (YMMV)

    TB
  • rkpattrkpatt Member Posts: 23
    I presume that the store brand synthetic oils
    are probably not Mobil 1 and are probably more petroleum based like Castrol Syntec but I wonder which specific mfg makes each of these store brands. Does any one know who makes these ?


    1.Advance Auto Parts

    2.Pep Boys

    3. Walmart

    My comfort level is with 6,000 mi oil&filter changes and I'd like to save a little $ but still want have the added protection of synthetic
  • rkpattrkpatt Member Posts: 23
    Honda automatics use a special blend of friction modified ATF which Honda dealers sell and there a appears no aftermarket substitute for (except for using Lubegarde + Dexron III). What brands of synthetics work in Hondas.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    there are 0W 30 dino oils....that doesn't work.
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    try 5W50.
    Now it works.
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    Really? I've never seen one (although I have to admit finding a 0w-30 dino oil has never been a high priority). A quick "browse" through all the major players' websites (Quaker State, Valvoline, Halvoline, Mobil, Chevron, Pennzoil, and Castrol) and I can't find any non synthetic 0w-30.

    Can you name a 0w-30 dino oil?

    The only debatable one is Castrol SLX, which some will argue isn't synthetic; therefore its a 0w-30 "dino" oil. From the context of "cheap dino oil" vs "expensive synthetic oil", SLX is synthetic. Whatever it is, the refining process Castrol uses removes much of the wax permiting it to flow at lower temperatures.
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    BTW, this conversation is entirely academic. No auto manufacturer, unless their product is targeted for northern Canada only, is going to require 0w-30 oil.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    a black and white answer on the synthetic 0W30, but two I'm still checking are Motorcraft and Wal-Mart... If anyone knows for sure, please post.

    But, as bblaha points out it is academic, and for more than just the reason he sets out...

    Say a manufacturer said, "Hey, let's require synthetic in our cars...we'll state that the owner must use an oil that meets API service classification SJ and is an SAE 0W30 oil, and the only way they can do that is to use synthetic."

    If it is true that 0W30 is only available as a synthetic right now, the owner will have no choice. But, let's say a year from now, a new dino oil comes out, meeting API SJ and in 0W30 form...now, a synthetic is no longer required.

    Next, let's say the manufacturer adds the synthetic caveat to the oil requirement. It wouldn't take much of a lawyer to defeat that, because there is no standardized method to show that synthetic is necessarily better than dino. (Of course, the car maker could always come to Edmunds for lots of testimonials from RedLine salesmen and Mobil 1 devotees....)

    And changing gears a little....

    One curious note, on the API web page, I've been unable to locate any mention of Red Line. Who makes that stuff? From what I can see, they are not certified by API for the SJ specification.

    Anyone have information to the contrary? All Red Line's website says is that their engine oil "Satisfies warranty requirements of API SH/SG/SF/CE/CD/CC". (Notice -- SJ is not listed, which would be a problem for 1997 and newer cars' warranties.)

    Does Red Line carry any API certifications on its packaging?
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    RedLine salesmen?
    Never heard of, at least on this board.
    The Amsoil dealers, on the other hand, are hanging on at virtually every automotive message board.
    Regarding the RedLine packaging.
    "Recommended for: API CH-4/CG-4/CF/SJ/SH"...
    ..."Not for break-in engines - allow 3000 miles"
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    I appreciate that link. What I'm not sure about is whether Red Line is actually licensed to display the API Certification. On the API website, you can search by certification, company, viscosity......

    Nowhere is Red Line mentioned (I did find Amsoil). Is this a case where the cost of certification and licensing is too great for a small company? Or are they trying to hide something? Hmmmm.....

    One thing seems clear, though, using a non-API certified oil may be hazardous to your warranty!
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Member Posts: 793
    If I remember corectly, the way Chevy gets around Magnuson-Moss is to require ANY synthetic, but Mobil1 is PREFERED (in the Vette). That way they wouldn't have to give it away. BTW, aren't oil changes provided free during the warranty period?
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    I believe all manufacturer's recommendations / requirements are made by referencing API certifications and viscosities, not properties of the oil's base stock. As stated earlier, there is no standard out there that can only be met by a synthetic oil.
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    Now wait a minute. I offered a standard and, unless I am mistaken, you have not named a non synthetic that can meet that standard.

    A standard can't specify that synthetics must be used, but the standard can be difficult enough that only a synthetic is able to meet it which is effectively the same thing.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Mobil1 is the "recommended" motor oil for Corvettes.
    http://www.mobil1.com/mobil1_racing/about/where/factoryfill/index.html
    Anyone have a Corvette owner's manual handy?
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    did not name a service classification, you named a viscosity. There is no reason that a dino could not be made to meet that viscosity range (Castrol did it, and they charge synthetic prices for it!!)

    My focus is on what oil will satisfy the warranty requirements from manufacturers, and also what oil change intervals will satisfy those same requirements.

    My assertion is that there is not a single car out there, whether factory filled or not, that has:

    a) a requirement for synthetic
    b) an allowable extended change cycle if you use synthetic
    c) an oil requirement that absolutely excludes dino oil

    Can anyone prove me wrong?
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    Here is a response I received from a Petro-Canada spokesperson regarding the oil identified above. Does this mean I've located a non-synthetic 0W30 oil?

    "Thanks for your interest in Petro-Canada products.

    The Petro-Canada Arctic 0W-30 is a synthetic blend oil made with Petro-Canada's hydro-cracked base oil and additives, delivering a synthetic
    performance and resistance to thermal breakdown. Thus, it is not a 100% synthetic motor oil."
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #598
    Ya gotta like this guy. He and others like him are why the oil companies consistently perform well yr in yr out.!! I mean why change your oil at 15000 miles when 3000 will do.!!??
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    however, until the car manufacturer or the oil company is willing to warrant my vehicle based on a 15,000 mile oil change interval, I'll stick with the requirements stated in the owner's manual. To do otherwise would be a foolish risk.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Mine does, so you ought to jack em up and tell em to get with the program!
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    your car manufacturer that is.
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    Will the manufacturer honor the warranty for the engine filled up with the not API certified oil?
    As I know the RedLine product is not certified.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #603

    Well, in theory there are any number of outs. And for discussion purposes the most direct answer is no, they don't have to. HOWEVER, If you are doing business with one particular dealer that in the worst case will fulfill on your warranty I would go down in person and ask the service manager. Or the most likely places you would take your vehicle to for warranty work. Most places that know you will work with you, for repeat business is the life's blood. If you are convinced of the synthetic's usefulness and dont want to find out, the "off the shelf" answer is to stick with an API synthetic and intervals and there will be absolutely no gray area. (But life is mostly gray)
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    The following is a direct quote from the BMW North America web site regarding the use of BMW's proprietary synthetic engine oil:

    >A required oil for all model 1999 and later BMW vehicles except the M cars

    All new BMW engines, except M car and E36 model engines, come from the factory filled with BMW High Performance Synthetic Engine Oil. The reason is that those engines are designed to provide longer oil service intervals while still delivering optimum performance, fuel efficiency, and durability. BMW High Performance Synthetic Engine Oil is formulated to meet those requirements.

    BMW High Performance Synthetic Engine Oil is available through BMW centers nationwide. Should you need to add oil and BMW High Performance Synthetic Engine Oil is unavailable, you may top up with small amounts of synthetic oil meeting the requirements of API Service SH or higher, such as Mobil 1 or Valvoline SynPower 5W-40.<
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Member Posts: 202
    I wouldn't rely 100% on a website for warranty information....I'd love to see the actual owner's manual for one of those cars...

    Not that they are not requiring synthetic, but it sure sounds like they'd be awfully close to having to give the oil away, if they are requiring BMW's own synthetic (which, by the way, doesn't appear to carry an API certification...)
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #605
    MB E-320 goes 15k between oil and filter changes also.
  • larryk5larryk5 Member Posts: 25
    I have a 5 gal pail of RP 5W-30 that is about 24 months old and I have enough left to convert my new Yukon over from dyno @ 5k miles. Is thier any reason I should not use this oil due to the fact that it has been sitting in my garage sealed in its origianl container for quite some time? And is 5k miles ok for proper engine break in?

    Also, I live in Texas where 10w-30 fits the recommended weight but would like to use 5w-30 as I was told it would give me slightly better milage and I would not have to worry about the heat due to the fact that this is a good synthetic. Any suggestions or comments are welcome.

    Larry
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #608
    No problem! After 1000k miles works also. The 5-30 w will usually give a bit more gas mileage but I am guessing that in Texas where it doesnt get below freezing much?? that the 10-30W will be good during at least 3 seasons. Actually the 10-30W will work during winter but will present a bit more resistance to flow during cold weather.
  • boaz47boaz47 Member Posts: 2,747
    I have used dino oil for many years and haven't ever had a big oil problem. I admit to using some additives now and then, but a while ago I switched to a blend and was pretty pleased. But is there any advantage to a blend or should one go all the way to a Synthetic? The cost is no big thing because I tend to change my own oil and filter. It is just that I bought a new car and would like to start it out right. So here is the question. If I am going to change the oil every three thousand miles anyway, is there an advantage to using synthetic? My reasoning for changing so often is simple. Gas engines, as well as diesels produce contaminates during the process of internal combustion. So even if the oil looks clean it isn't. That is not the point however. Even if my owners manual say to use dino oil is there an advantage to using synthetic and how about blends?
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    The problem with a blend is that its too expensive for what you get. You're better off making your own blend by mixing a synth and dino at whatever ratio you are comfortable with. Just stick with a single manufacturer.
  • gasguzzgasguzz Member Posts: 214
    the new mom-kids minivan is expected to do 2400-3000 miles PER YEAR (now at 400 miles). meaning this car will normally do 3-4 miles short trips (and adding condensation to the crank oil?).
    so, you gearheads, do i have a candidate here to do OIL/FILTER ONCE-A-YEAR on Mobil-1?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #613
    Given your mileage, I would seriously consider going for a longer freeway drive at least once a week. ("to blow it out") so to speak. You will potentially be giving it the hardest mileage that you can possibly give it from a maint point of view.
  • boaz47boaz47 Member Posts: 2,747
    #611 & #612. Accepting the idea that synthetic is superior. Does it recycle or how is it disposed of? I may not be a tree hugger but I have taken my used oil, after collecting 10 gallons or so, to a recycling center where I have assumed they recyle the oil for some purpose. I know they test the returned oil for contaminates like gas and other solvents. What can or should you do with a synthetic? Recycle or hazardous waste? I can do eather.
  • vac23vac23 Member Posts: 118
    I bring it to a recycling center. It's still petro. so I don't see why syn would be treated any different. What they do with it after beats me.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #615

    Yes a big 10-4 to #616. In the municipality I live in the recyclers come by every week, and will take used motor oil if in approved containers. Also some of the auto stores will take almost any quantity.. and worse case you can bring it to the recycle place (the dump) and they will recycle it, but here they charge you separately for it. Also, the county has hazardous material amnesty days?
  • boaz47boaz47 Member Posts: 2,747
    #616 & #617

    I have no trouble switching then. I do like how much cleaner the synthetic oil looks between changes. Out of habit I might be able to stretch it to 5k between changes..*S*. What do you think about filters? I have used Purolators up to this point and I change everytime I change oil.
  • chevydude2chevydude2 Member Posts: 36
    Boaz47... Blends are O.K., but i read in Popular Mechanics that the Valvoline Durablend is only about 15% synthetic, so I mix 2 quarts full to 3 quarts dino (40%) and go 4-5,000 miles between changes. It just gives me a little more security, but 95% of my driving is expressway, so I could go longer between changes, but I agree that its good to change oil & filter more frequently than less.

    Brad
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #618
    For me, I stick with OEM filters, reason is weird, in that I get them by the next higher assembly in my case, a case is ten filters.
    You might think I am a bit "out there", in that I use a 15k interval for Mobil One 5-30W. Oil consumption is app 1/4 to 1/2 a qt at about 14k.

    My dealer doesn't have a problem with this and has stated they will honor any warranty work. If you are in the least bit concerned they have those oil analysis bottles so you can test. I have had no problems or concerns but am well away a lot of folks find this interval a tad extreme. However I have an auto that is recommended to go out as far as 15k so in a sense it validates what I have researched and have practiced for a long time.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #620

    Sorry it should be "well aware".
  • myford2000myford2000 Member Posts: 3
    I ran AMSOIL in my F250 to 97000 miles with 4 oil changes. I used oil analysis to verify the oil was performing up to it potential. There is no doubt in my mind to the quality of this product.

    Since then I have put it in my power stroke diesel and I really like it there also. I just bought another 2000 F150 and it will be going in this truck as soon as I get the oil from the warehouse.

    This oil is the best on the market. If you have any questions feel free to contact me at wlh109@hotmail.com
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    How much is AMSoil a quart...if six quarts were purchased?
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    "This oil is the best on the market."

    Prove it. Any data, comparison tests, anything other than the Amsoils own "testimonials".
    Pleaassseeee........................
    Otherwise your statement is ungrounded.
  • wayn1wayn1 Member Posts: 69
    here we go again!
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #624
    It might prove beneficial to read a few of the more than 600 post to get a feeling where that Amsoil person is coming from. He may or maynot be a MLM but that is really not the point. The real point is whether or not the extra "betterness" is worth the increased price.

    As you know conventional oil meets a very very high standard already. Synthetic just happens to be a superior lubricant. The real "rubber meets the road issue is whether or not it is worth the extra cost, given the fact that the cost to manufacture conventional oil and synthetic oil is about the same.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I happen to think, for example, given the objective figures, that Amsoil is better than the Mobil One that I use and buy.
  • wayn1wayn1 Member Posts: 69
    It's nice to know that there are good senseable people out there that don't bad mouth Amsoil, even when most never heard of it or are very stubborn and won't even give it a chance. I've been using it for six years now and I really wish that I knew about Amsoil a lot sooner. Just give it a try, if you don't like it, go back to the other stuff.
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Member Posts: 793
    What is the cost of the analysis vs. the price of an oil change, and do they test for loss of the additives in the oil? I know they check for metal particles and certain chemicals.
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