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BTW, filters don't remove acids....
I live where we get nightime lows about 40 lower than daytime highs (usually around 0 in winter). Figure the blended oil helps pumping at low temps.
Only run full synthetics in my two and four stroke motorcycles and truck when exposed to <-20F temps.
Yawl have been sold a bill of goods on the extended oil change intervals.
Interesting stuff at the end of the article about breaking your car in with dino oil for about 6K miles before using synthetic - have heard all kinds of advice in that area. What they wrote sounds logical though.
hmm... if anyone can answer the question in #68, i'd like to hear it too.
If I can answer your question, and you may be better off contacting Amsoil directly, you DO NOT have to install a bypass filter. I don't use one. There is not enough room in my Honda's engine bay to install one. Although it does not take up much room modern car engine bays are pretty packed. Most users that install one drive trucks, I think. Ironically, I purchased a 2000 Toyota Celica recently, which is a very small sport coupe and voila there is a nice space on the firewall to install one. Go figure. I am thinking about installing one. It appears there is ample evidence that they do work and allow you to go virtually oil change free. As you may well know synthetic does not chemically break down, at least not for a long time or under extreme stress that your car will never see, so the only problem has been how do you keep the oil clean and keep water, gas, byproducts out of the oil to keep running the oil. Enter the bypass filter.
Also, yeah Amsoil is great but I will not hesitate to use Mobil 1 in my car also. Hope this helps.
There are several premium synthetic manufacturers that testing has shown to outperform amsoil. it is true that maybe street vehicles don't need that level of technology but in any case it is available and does outperform the amsoil brand.
(Red Line, Royal Purple, NEO ) all will outperform according to test data. I am not a dealer for any of these brands but i have compared all available data. for what it's worth. I use red line in my 99 truck and 95 van and RP in my 100,000 mile volvo.
i wrote (e-mail) to all manufacturers and asked for their test data, not the ad crap on their web sites but the actual test results, as well as the independent lab who did the tests. most responded either through e mail or by us mail. i lookes for corraborative data in each co.
my analysis showed rp and red line with similar results. rp uses different pao base with a proprietary add pac and they say that is where there film strength comes from. red line uses polyol ester base (better base higher thermal stablity, friction coeff., etc. )
i suggest you do the same and make your own conclusions. one interesting point by red line, they agreed amsoil has better wear data unused, but they found it doesn,t hold up under real stress in running engines where red line actually got better as the oil was used, again i am not saying that amsoil is not good only in my semi-educated opinion red line and rp are alittle better. to e mail them go to the web sites they all have e mail addresses.
My experience is mostly with Mobil 1, but I suspect the competing products are relatively close in chemistry. BTW, I think the most critical use of synthetic lubes may be for transmissions. I towed a horse trailer with a Suburban for several years and noticed the ATF looked horrible. It also tended to boil even with an extra cooler. Switched to synthetic--problem solved. Fluid looked fine when changed annually and no overheating.
BTW, didja notice at the Daytona 500 qualifying that several guys were running synthetics described as "watery" Obviously something like 0-0 weight.
Synthetic is good for 100-300 RPM depending on the type of motor.In the 1970s Showroom Stock SCCA racers were among the first to jump on synthetics (mostly RedLine then) as a way to boost RPM in very evenly matched cars. The synthetics used in race cars are often special blends as some of the sdditives are unnecesary while others have to be added to compensate for mthanol or alchohol fuels.
To make everyone madder, they also said that you only need/benefit from synthetics in very hot or cold climates.
80's and got GREAT RESULTS, min. ring and bearing
wear on '74 TRUCK 350 Chevy engine, went 477,000
mi before engine replacement.
Currently use PROline Silver semi-syhthetic 5W-30
and Prolong engine oil treatment on '00 S10
Xtreme 2.2l, have driven 4500 mi and no loss of
oil yet....oil still honey colored with DELCO
AC UPF-47 ultra filter capacity flt. Will change at 5000 mi intervals.....
My question is about synthetic blends. Are they worth considering when changing at 3000 miles?
They are one half the price (or less) of full synthetics.
I am just wondering if we are throwing our money away on these oils. My theory on oil changes always was that acids form on the bearings and moving parts while running the engine that the filter can't filter out. the only way to solve this problem is with frequent oil changes. A person could change his oil frequently with less expense with synthetic blends hopefully with some of the cold and hot weather benefits of full synthetics.
The real answer is that synthetic oil is way better than conventional oil. The additive paks are pretty much the same as conventional oils.
As you have probably have heard, the current oils are very much better than those of yesteryear, and that is codified with a high standard of SJ. As a result of a combination of things manufacturers can recommend longer time and/or frequency between oil changes i.e. 7,500 as opposed to 3,000.
So while changing conventional oil at 3,000 is extreme, it will not hurt anything and is of economic benefit to those who would change oil at 3,000 miles. On the other hand, synthetic oils can do app 3x the time and/or frequency of conventional oil. So in the above case it can go 22.5k/9k.
Personally, I change my synthetic oil every 15k. while closing on 70k miles it is as clean as a whistle, and I have changed oil app 5 times (I used convention oil to break the engine in)
So if you subscribe to the 3k oil change and care about the cost. Synthetic costs more.
If you do a blend you get the blended worst of both worlds, ie. high cost with longevity that is limited by the low cost of conventional oils, but with low longevity; To me; if you do the 3k change stay with the conventional oil, if you are at all concerned about cost.
Let me ask another way, why not use full synthetic?
Ran M1 0W-30 for a trip up north where nightime temps dipped to minus 31F.
Most of the rest of the time, conventionals are probably just as good for my usage.
Only run full synthetics in my race vehicles where the cost of oil is insignificant compared to other expenses....
You are refering to CAGS? If so the cost can be from 1.50- 25 bucks for the 2.2k ohm resister, home brew or buying a vendor made solution. After having access the job can take downwards of 10 mins. Low to no risk and it just tells the computer that you are still "connected with no malfunction so to speak.
You probably already have synth in your diff.
It is great that your friend's behavior has indicated that he has cut thru the bru ha ha, lies and damned lies and hype on this issue.
Oil, both conventional and synthetic has known degradation patterns. That is how the standards can be imposed and meaningful testing can be done.
There are 6 numbers that really make a difference;
1. VI or viscosity index
2. Flash (point)
3. Pour
4. % ash content
5. % zinc
The last three reasons (3,4,5,) are the real reasons in addition to longer life over conventional oils you buy synthetic oils.
Given the same patterns, synthetic lasts app 3x longer than very good and high quality conventional oils.
(the quality of conventional oils has never been better). "Add packs" or additive packages are virtually the same for both conventional and synthetic.
What is not known: are the situations that we consumers will put it thru. And, as we have endlessly debated, is where the differences of opinion occur.
How long filters last is a deeply guarded secret and I suspect will remain so, for it casts doubt on the whole system. So if filters are the chink point or archilles tendon, and we have no practical way to measure, change oil filters more frequently. Most folks throw the baby out with the wash. So if you change the whole system more than you need to, religiously, which or whose religion does that benefit?
I change synthetic oil and filter at 15k and the beast is going on 75k and is clean as a whistle with almost no wear (dealer had it apart for valve measurement at 60k).
Finally, the numbers in the synthetic oil line do vary (as do those in the conventional oil also).
Practically, I personally would buy on price. But as you know that choice is what makes this thread go round. All the best!! Incidently I use Mobil One.
And graphically, I should learn to count: correction, 6 to read 5 (five)
#6 TBN
Buffers the acids that form in all oils subjected to combustion.....
Thanks for the input!! Ball is in your court! Would you please delineate this topic for this fine audience. Thanks.
#102
I will have to research and post web sites that explain this more on the side of non technical.
If Castrol Syntec and Mobil One are your choices realistically they do have slightly diff number's but not significant and I would buy on price. If you prefer one or the other for whatever reason buy the one that gives you the warm fuzzies, both are excellent off the shelf, mass marketed choices, in my humble opinion.