Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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That's funny. For the rest of us, I mean.
"Is it possible that they could have given me the wrong car even after it was registered to me?"
This is a bit of a mess, but relax, you'll be fine.
First up, if they're right and you're in the wrong car, there is no deal and you can walk if things get fishy. A car deal in most (all?) states requires you to drive off in the car. *THE* car, not some other car. I'm not suggesting you run away, I'm saying you CAN, and they know it, so I doubt they're trying to play a fast one on you. Stuff happens.
Look at your paperwork from the dealership, the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) will figure prominently on it. Then look on your registration papers and see if it's the same. Then go out to the car; it's on a decal (usually white, size of a playing card) on the driver's side door or the driver's side B pillar. Open the door and look at the narrow end of it; if the decal isn't there, look where that surface mates up to the car.
It'll have load rating and manufacturing information, along with the VIN. If all three VINs are not the same, the whole thing will be a bit of a mess to sort out; just make sure when it's all done, you've got the right car with the right number of miles on it, and the right price, and the right paperwork.
"I never heard of such a thing"
Me neither, but I'm not surprised, esp. at a larger Honda dealer. Since they package all their options in a trim line, I'm not surprised they have identical or near-identical Accords on the lot. Easy to get confused. Lemme guess, it's a silver LX 4cyl sedan with automatic? :-)
Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
-Mathias
thanks
My credit has been flawless for the last 2 years...but have been told they go back 5 years for auto decisions. I make over $50,000 and can easily make the payments. The trouble with buying instead of leasing is, they want to really stick the APR to me because of my past credit. (I've been approved, but I'm not happy with the APR)
I have a great job, etc... Can having my father (with tier 1 credit) enable me to get into the leases they are offering at good rates? Or...any other suggestions?
2005 4Runner Sport Edition.
MSRP: 33,556
Invoice: 30,217 (included $495 advertising and $595 destination fee)
Money Factor: .0138
Residual: $20,528
Money down: $424.87(first payment)+ Motor Vehicle approx. $150 - everything else was rolled into the payment
Our Cost: $30,577 ($350 over invoice)
Monthly Payment: $424.87
They said that the lease program was a lower money factor or the $900 marketing promotion - one or the other, not both
Please respond, have to make a decision right away.
$42,560 MSRP
$38,152 Invoice
$39,237 Negotiated Price (Before Acquisition fee & tax)
$40,900 Edmunds FMV
($2,500) Rebates
$38,400 Adjusted Edmunds FMV
$837 Premium I am paying.
This equates to a 6.2% Dealer Profit
Dealers Profit
Based on Edmunds FMV
$275 - Diff from invoice and negotiated price
$1,276 - 3% MSRP Holdback
1,533 - Total Dealer Profit or 4%
Is 4% correct? That seems very low for high demand vehicle. Could I be missing something.
The problem with negotiating 4% on this car there is really only one dealer in the 3 state area that has any decent supply so price shopper is difficult. You get the take or leave and really can not go any where else.
The dealer is Wide World of Cars in Spring Valley, NY- right off the Thru-way.
Its funny, you never see WWC's advertise around the metro area, but they are continually rated as one of the top 10 or so BMW dealerships in the country for customer service/ satisfaction. I know the dealership recently changed owners, but I saw no difference in my dealings- could not have been easier.
Additionally, they are a huge Ferrari dealership/ service center. Always cool checking those cars out if you have to wait. Usually have more of those in stock than BMW's.
Would tell you my salesman's name, I love referring him, but believe that is not allowed on these boards.
rob
2) conv fee ($275)? I'm guessing this is a conveyance or document fee.. Either way, it is just profit to the dealer and ought to be considered an addition to your negotiated price.. If you add that onto your price, you are about $1100 under MSRP and about $1900 over invoice (about.. I didn't look up the invoice price).
It looks like you could work on that negotiated price a little... I'm thinking another $500-$1000 lower would be fair to both sides... That would lower the payment $15-$30 per month..
Your dealer seems to be straightforward in his dealings with you.... This is a very good thing.. I'd be inclined to stick with them, if I could... maybe try to work that price a little lower.... You aren't far off now. If this is the best they will do, I don't know that it would be worth going elsewhere..
regards,
kyfdx
(not the expert)
PS: 3yr/36K, right?
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Had to get back 2 U and say thanks for the advice. As it turned out we bought an 04 Touring from Rick Case in Ft. Lauderdale and took advantage of the 2.9% finance. It took 5 hrs on a rainy new years eve day but I got the SUV I wanted, MDX Touring and the color my wife liked (Blk w/tan)....... they were great to deal with and we were satisfied with the price.
Superep
Received the invoice from the bank.
left fender 5 or more dings $55
left rear door 5 or more dings $55
right front door 5 or more dings $55
Left tire
total $265.00
I was like, what the hell? it's because i brought the car to a tire shop to check and they said all 4 tires have more than 3/32. If it has less than that, i would have replaced them for $50 regarding the dings, i don't agree to it at all. I need to fix the rear bumper before i return it, so i asked the body shop to fix the dings also (if any). But the bodyshop said no ding was found. I think i am being treated unfairly, i just drop off the car at the dealer. Do you think the dealer DINGS my car on purpose before they send someone over to do inspection?because i didn't get a new car from them? (but what would they get by doing that?) do you have any idea what i should do? I mean i am ok with the charge if it's like a lease turn in fee or something (like what MBZ do) but charging me what i shouldn't be charged is not cool at all. Especially when i really checked everything before i turn the car in.
It seems like many BMW Dealers mark up the money factor and fees to make more profit. You may be able to negotiate them back down to the base rates if you can confirm what it should be.
I signed a lease with BMWFS in December and the gap insurance was included.
Lee
Thank you very much for your insight. I think that as far as car dealers go, this dealer seems to be pretty straightforward. That being said, your advice regarding the price of the car was the exactly the advice I was looking for. Having never purchased a BMW before, I wasn't sure what would be a fair price for this car. As it turns out, the dealer gave me a breakdown of invoice price (which I don't have in front of me right now) but I'll see how much the price he gave me is above that (I'll also check here on Edmunds). I take if from what you are suggesting that $900 over the deal invoice price is fair. I'll try for that. Thanks again.
Yes 3yr/36k
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Thanks for finding out the MSRP. Let's work up a sample lease payment on this truck for you and see what we come up with. According to my calculations, if you were to lease a 2004 Dodge Durango Limited Hemi 4WD with an MSRP of $41,400 and a selling price of $35,562 through Chrysler Financial right now for 2 years with 12,000 miles per, your zero down, pre-tax monthly payment should be around a whopping $648. I can't believe that it's so high, but I just double checked my calculations and they appear to be right. It just goes to show that it is often really expensive to lease '04 models this late in the model year.
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You certainly can lease your new car in Wisconsin even though you live in California, but I personally think that doing so would be more trouble than its worth. I understand that dealers in certain parts of California are a little shady, but there is a lot of competition for your business there. As long as you know what you want to pay for this car, know what its lease program is like, and understand how leasing works you can use this high level of competition to your advantage during negotiations. Plus, you won't have to worry about getting your new vehicle all the way from Wisconsin back to Cali.
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General Motors Acceptance Corp.'s, GM's captive finance company, lease program is a little different than most other banks' programs in that it publishes lease rates instead of money factors for the vehicles that it leases. You can convert its published lease rates into approximate money factor equivalents by dividing then by 2400. Through January 3rd, GMAC's base lease rate for leases of the 2005 H2 is 2.5% for 3 year leases. I would be more than happy to work up a sample lease payment on the truck that you are considering for you if you provide me with its full MSRP and selling price.
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Using the above numbers, I came up with zero down, pre-tax monthly payments of around $291 for an '05 Matrix with an MSRP of $19,713 and a selling price of $19,000 and a payment of around $206 for an '05 Camry with an MSRP of $20,515 and a selling price of $18,300. These estimates may be a little off though because I do not believe that TFS allows the complete residualization of every option and because the selling price that you were quoted for the Camry probably includes customer cash which I do not believe can be used in conjunction with the special lease program.
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2005 4Runner Sport Edition.
MSRP: 33,556
Invoice: 30,217 (included $495 advertising and $595 destination fee)
Money Factor: .0138
Residual: $20,528
Money down: $424.87(first payment)+ Motor Vehicle approx. $150 - everything else was rolled into the payment
Our Cost: $30,577 ($350 over invoice)
Monthly Payment: $424.87
They said that the lease program was a lower money factor or the $900 marketing promotion - one or the other, not both
Please respond, have to make a decision right away.
My monthly payment on a buy with 4k down would be $593. My payment on a 42 month lease through acura would be $659/month, but no money down.
Please advise, as my car will be delivered around the 14th.
Thanks a bunch,
ESH
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Different states calculate sales tax differently than others, so I do not know exactly how much your lease payment would be including tax.
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Thanks for your help.
As I said earlier, once you know exactly how much money it is going to cost you to buy your leased vehicle you need to compare it to its current value on the open market. You can find out approximately what your vehicle is worth by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You also may want to stop by the following discussion: "Real-World Trade-In Values". One of our most knowledgeable community members, Terry, frequents that discussion and he is often kind enough to give community members who give him an accurate description of their vehicles with his opinion on their value.
If you have liked your vehicle, it has not given you any major problems, has not been in a major accident, and its purchase price is less than its current value you may want to consider buying it. If not, just turn it in and walk away.
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On a somewhat related note, it would be a good idea for you to check your credit score. It is very inexpensive to do and in doing so one can often find mistakes that would have caused them to have a lower score than they should have. You can find out your scores by visiting the following Web sites: TransUnion, Experian, and Equifax
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