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Comments
Len
Use the coupon code "detailcity" w/o the quotes to get 10% off your order from premiumautocare.com.
I ordered some Klasse AIO, and a Four Star Claying kit from them online yesterday and applied the code at checkout.
The next trick will be to actually find some time for some of this Subie TLC.
Alan
98 OBW Ltd
Suds up nice, cleans well, and dries impressively. Strange to see no beading from my recent AIO application.
But....
the thing is attracting every spec of dust in the air, and it's not dusty, windy, etc. Something in the drying agent must be leaving a residue behind or has made the surface negatively charged or ???. You can wipe an area, only to introduce more dust. And I'm using fresh clean micro-fiber towels. The surface feels smooth and clean too.
It was even making my California Car Duster not work and pulling red lint from it. That same duster was then tried on our Mazda MPV (not washed with the Mr Clean thing) and left no lint or dust.
So, I'll be washing it again tomorrow with some regular ol' Meguiar's Gold Class to hopefully remove the whatever from it.
Anyone else try this stuff out? Better results?
-Brian
Dust magnet = Bad
-Frank P
I gave it a good rinsing with 'normal' tap water and then water-bladed it to dry it. Put another coat of AIO on it. Pics in that album above. Hood deflector is installed too.
-Brian
I've been using the Mr. Clean on my AIOed Forester and it seems to be fine. I don't see any more dust on it than usual -- and I have Java Black Pearl, too.
Ken
Oh well, it needed the 2nd coat of AIO anyway! 8-)
-Brian
I have a new threat - Cicadas! They're all over the place. I keep hitting them with my windshield, even. Ugh.
I did detail my engine bay, though. Use some cleaner/degreaser, sprayed on, then ran the hose inside my utility tub, connected to the hot water.
Wife thinks I'm crazy. She's probably right.
Any how, that hot water, in a fine mist, worked well to rinse off the degreaser, and the engine compartment looks pretty good now. Not yet OCD standard, but at least it got the bit of gear oil that I spilled on there.
Did the same with the undercarriage, and feel a lot better now.
Seems like a pretty good environmentally friendly way to clean her up.
-juice
Jim
I like having them around though; they get such a bad rap. Why? They don't eat anything, they're completely defensless, they only get their groove on once every 17 years, and they make an eerie cool noise that humans only get to hear every 17 years. My unborn daughter will be graduating freakin HIGH SCHOOL the next time they show up. So I don't mind plucking a few from my intercooler.
Not too many Cicadas out here in the West Coast, but they're EVERYWHERE in Japan. Their symphony is the sound of summer.
Ken
Bob
Even polished up the wheel weights. 8-)
-Brian
Len
-Brian
You're out of your mind. ;-)
Did you clean the valve stem caps too? Can you come over and do my Forester?
Ken
The valve stems and caps got cleaned too. I did not wax them though since they're rubber.
I probably spent 10 minutes on each wheel just degreasing the lugs. There was a coating over each that was hard to see at first.
-Brian
Boy you need help, I thought I was bad, but compared to you I am normal:-) Whatever normal is these days.
Cheers Pat.
I plan on getting a pressure washer for my soon-to-have 2005 GT Limited (thanks, Juice!) along with a California water blade. I think I will skip the "car dusters" for now unless someone has a positive recommendation.
If I read correctly, there have been several recommendations to wait for a month or two before doing any serious waxing on the car. I am of the "twice-a-year" polishing persuasion so I will probably go with Nu-Finish. Which leads to my first question: Is Nu-Finish a dirt/swirl removing polish or a finishing wax?
I'm not big on a multi-step process unless it one I can do just twice a year (or less)... any suggestions? I have used TurtleWax on my previous cars and switched to Meguiars recently with some success.
Meguiars cleaners and conditioners for leather?
I've read about some issues with certain polishes/waxes in various humidity/temperature conditions. Anyone have experience with with waxes in south Texas?
Thanks in advance!
I have been using them for many years and have had nothing but a positive experience with them.When the car is just dusty a quick wipe over with the duster and you have a shiny clean car again, no scratchs guaranteed.
Cheers Pat.
If you want minimal waxing during the year, then going with a synthetic product like NuFinish is a good bet. Synthetics last a lot longer than traditional waxes and still do provide a good amount of shine. Typically, off-the-shelf one shot waxes are cleaner/waxes, meaning that they have a combination of paint cleaners (for mild oxidation removal) and wax. All waxes will fill in very fine swirls to make them less visible, but in order to remove them, you need a real polish.
Always try the least abrasive method first and see if it works for you. Your brand new car shouldn't really need any polishing unless the dealer screwed up the PDI detailing. When you use a polish, you're basically sanding down a very very thin layer of clearcoat.
I, like many other OCDers on this forum, have discovered a product called Klasse All-in-One. It's also a synthetic wax, but it goes on and off easily, provides a good shine and lasts very long. I find that when I use it with it's Sealant Glaze (another optional product), I can really go 6 months without a re-coat. Klasse can't be purchased at your local auto shop -- do a search online to find the many retailers.
Not quite sure about leather conditioners. I'll need to find out too since I have a Legacy GT Ltd on order too.
In hot Texan weather, you really will benefit from a synthetic wax. With traditional waxes, you can tell how much more quickly the wax layer wears off when washing in warm weather.
Just my two cents, but instead of buying a pressure washer, I'd invest in a good garden hose with multiple nozzles, a high-quality lambswool washing mit (for the paint), a cheapo synthetic washmitt for the wheels and lots of microfiber detailing cloths.
Ken
"polished up the wheel weights"
*sniff*, I'm so proud!
The paint is cured at the factory, I was told. Besides, check the build date on the door jamb and I bet it's already been more than the 6 weeks most paint shops recommend for re-paints.
-juice
-Ian
-juice
I'd highly recommend using some form of micro-fiber. Terry cloth, no matter how soft, will create more fine swirls than microfiber. You can either get the fancy applicators (a foam core with microfiber outside) or get a stack of cloths from Target.
Ken
-Ian
I used to use terry cloths on my black Forester, but I could see that the cloths themselves were putting some very fine marks on the waxjob. It's probably less of an issue with lighter colors. Also, damp terry cloth is less abrasive than dry.
Flannel detailing cloths are a good alternative too.
Ken
-Ian
buds,dropings etc that would NOT come off with soap & water or polish...A small squirt on a rag of Oven Cleaner---did the trick. Off in a flash..
Give it a try.. Deadeye
-Frank P
-juice
The first thing I would do is get the chemical film off the leather. There are a number of leather treatment products out there you can buy; focus on ones that have seperate cleaners and conditioners. Lexol is one brand with a good reputation, and they have a seperate leather wash and leather conditioner. Treating your leather every 6 months is the best thing you can do for it to prevent cracking and keep it looking new.
Next I would clean up the carpets. Professional upholstery steam cleaners can be rented from a number of places. Be sure to do this on a warm day and keep the windows down until the carpets completely dry. The last thing you want is a case of mildew in your new car. Personally, I own a home Bissel cleaner that doubles as an upholstery steam cleaner (we own two golden retrievers and clean our carpets frequently).
Then I would tackle the windows and clear plastic with an ordinary glass cleaner. Be sure to use a soft rag on clear plastic, and on the windows if they have tinting, to prevent any fine scratches.
The last item is the vinyl. Start with a bucket of clean water and a rag, and scrub every piece of vinyl in the car, from the dash to the doors to the scuff guards. If there's still film left on the vinyl, try cleaning with a product called Vinylex, which is both a cleaner and conditioner. Vinylex will leave things a bit shiny and has a nice UV protectant built in. If the vinyl is clean after the water wash, use a UV protectant called 303 Aerospace, which has the highest UV inhibitors on the market right now. The UV inhibitors will prevent your vinyl from fading and deteriorating due to sun exposure.
You're done! The car should feel, smell, and look new. Enjoy!
-Ty
Don't laugh, but we OCD Club members have been known to run a de-humidifier inside ours cars to kill a musty/moldy odor.
-juice
Anyway, the finish on my Honda had been neglected for at least a year and a half. That's the last time I paid someone to detail it. Before that I hadn't waxed it in at least a couple years.
Anyway, last week I took a Mother's clay bar system to it (minus the carnuba wax) after giving it a thorough wash. Then I put a coat of Klasse All-In-One on it. WOW! I don't know if it was the combination or just the Klasse but it sure looks great. I really should have taken before and after pictures of it. Before it was quite dull in a few places (the hood being the worst) and after it's much more shiny. Great stuff!
Also, I've got something that came up off the road on the underside of the rear quarter panel that I can't get off. It's yellowish and looks to have been quite thick. It's actually been on there quite a long time as I've tried scrubbing when I wash and I've tried the Turtle wax bug, tar, and sap remover. It's still not coming off. Any ideas?
Cheers,
-Ian
I don't have any experience although I was seriously considering having Stongard do my new wagon. They use a 3M film.
I think I may pass for now though. I'm thinking that with a silver paint job small rock chips and such just won't be as visible as with a darker finish.
Feel free to talk me back into it though! ;-) LOL!
-Ian
Did you try using warm water to wash off that yellow gunk? Or how about rubbing alcohol? Try mild measures first, then ratchet it up.
Yep, silver should better hide those inevitable chips.
Ken
-Brian
But it'll look pitted, especially the bumper when specks of the black plastic showing.
Now get back on the Clear Bra Wagon!!!
-Dave
As for the clear bra situation. I've read some things that made me leary of doing business with a certain vendor at this time. So, I've decided to do a bit more research before making a final decision.
-Ian
How about looking into Rockblocker.com?
I have their product applied to my car.
They're in Redmond, WA about 9 miles from where you're at, and I sure you'll get the work done by the owner himself
-Dave
-Frank
FYI: The Lexol leather products and Vinylex can be found at Pep Boys auto parts stores. 303 Aerospace Protectant is a little trickier to find, but it's worth it. There's nothing better for vinyl and rubber treatment from my personal experience. Go to http://www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=retailersearch to find a local retailer. If you have problems finding quality auto care products around you locally, I've found http://www.properautocare.com to be an awesome resource if you don't mind having things shipped.
Have fun on the coastal ride!
-Ty
So they do sell the stuff ready made.
-juice