Subaru Crew - Cleaning Interior & Exterior Surfaces

ateixeira · January 2001

Yeah, I have keyless too. Guess a quick wash is better than none.

I just love to use the pressure washer, but now the outside water is shut off because of the cold.

-juice

[Deleted User] · January 2001

HI Juice, I detail cars for a hobby I also love the pressure washer, however be really careful with it on paint I alway use low pressure straight from the hose first in order to float off all the loose dirt then I use the pressure washer angled towards the body never stright onto the paint otherwise your pressure washer becomes a sandblaster.
Cheers Pat.

ateixeira · January 2001

I hear you. Mine's only 1300psi, which is enough to strip wood and probably paint, but I never use a stream that strong when washing the car.

Some gas ones are 2400psi and higher. Those can do some serious damage if not used properly.

-juice

norm949 · January 2001

Although I'm still waiting on delivery of my Forester S+ (dealer says any day now), I'm starting to assemble care and maintenance parts already.

Juice (or anyone else who wants to comment), I saw on your care website that you have door guards on your Forester, and they look pretty tough. Where did you find them? I've looked around in the past and only found simple plastic ones that didn't offer much protection. Also, the ones I put on my Probe actually caused damage to the paint where I positioned it so I ended up removing them anyway. Any problems with your guards? Thanks.

-Norm

ateixeira · January 2001

They're not hard to find. Try WalMart, KMart, or Pep Boys or Trak Auto. Depends on what you have in your area.

Mine were "Racer's Choice" brand ones, pretty lame name but they work fine and have reflectors, FWIW.

Problems? Not really, but you do have to keep them clean. I'm sure the doors would be much worse without them.

-juice

dsackman · January 2001

I have an'01 Forester S+ with fog lamps. The fog lamps have plastic covers to protect them from stones and debris. The covers also make it very difficult to wash the fog lamps and they get very dirty when visiting the ski areas and loosing their effectiveness.

Any suggestions? Can the plastic covers be removed easily?

Daniel

ateixeira · January 2001

I've never removed those, so that's a good point.

I have a pressure washer which allows me to clean it up pretty good. I'd just use your hose's pressure, which ought to be enough.

If you're detailing, a tooth brush ought to work.

-juice

texsubaru · January 2001

I think they simply pop off; I don't recall needing a screwdriver just to get the plastic grill off my '98 Forester when I was replacing a cracked fog light (now, swapping out the fog lamp itself was a whole other matter, requiring a lot of combat with stubborn and somewhat hard to reach Phillips-head screws).

dsackman · January 2001

Thanks for the feedback. I did not put too much force on the plastic grill yet. I was concerned breaking it. That seem to be a habit of mine.

Daniel

peterson10 · January 2001

Here is an answer to a question I haven't heard in a while. If anyone is looking for "custom fitting" heavy rubber floor mats for the current-model cutback, here is the result of my own search: Kraco makes a set of mats called "Perfect Fit Rubber", model KH-2709, which fit (as advertised) perfectly. There is one tiny tab you will want to trim off for the drivers side (to sweep around the fuel-door lever) and hats it. Having tried to find something to do the job for two years I can say with some confidence that these are the best available in my area. I bought mine at Auto Zone for about $20 for the pair. They are available in black, gray, tan, and clear.

hmmm, after this unsolicited testimonial maybe I should ask Kraco for a commission,
Dave

ateixeira · January 2001

Good tip. Thanks for sharing.

-juice

bat1161 · January 2001

Dave,

Thanks for the tip on the mats. I've been looking for a good set of winter mats to protect the car. I am not crazy about the Subaru protective mats, as they don't seem to be the right size. Now I just have to find out who sells the Kraco's in the NYC area.

Mark

dsackman · January 2001

The fog lamp covers can be removed very easily. The cover is attached to the light it self.
At the bottom of the plastic cover is a slot. Put a screw driver in the slot and pry the plastic cover off. Then unhook the two plastic hooks at the top.
To replace, hook the top hooks over the glass and snap the bottom on.
It is amazing how much muck gets accumulated in there. Yuck!
Daniel

ateixeira · January 2001

I'll need to check that myself when I get a chance to wash. It's FILTHY after the snow we had. They line the roads with salt and it looks awful on my Acadia Green Metallic.

The catch is it's freezing and I'm not off until Friday.

-juice

[Deleted User] · January 2001

Dave, Thanks! I looked over the last year and my wife and I couldn't find anything that fits her 00 GT wagon well (including the expensive and ill-fitting Cannon WeatherTech, sold by MacNeil). Mats should fit as exactly as possible lest they become hazard (becoming hung up on the pedals); this has complicated my search.

How thick are these? I prefer to lay the rubber mats on top of the carpet mats.

Mark, Try Kraco (non-Flash version of the site so it'll load a little faster for those on modems). Select Retail Stores.

..Mike

peterson10 · January 2001

Mike, the Kraco KH-2709 mats I have are made of a heavy, albeit very flexible, rubber. They are not the super deep, waffle-type which has become popular in the last few years, but have low-profile "tray" with a slightly textured surface. Having tried both I prefer these. The outer perimeter of the mats taper down nicely and can be trimmed in a variety of ways for a custom fit, although (as I said in an earlier post) I trimmed only the small tab to accomodate the remote fuel door lever. The bottoms are covered in lots-o-little-spikes, so they really dig in.

I saw these mats last year but didn't consider them at first because I wanted the waffle-type that claim to hold fifty gallons or more of slush. Then it finally hit me; since I knock my boots off BEFORE I get in the car, and as I haven't yet developed an embarrasing bladder condition, I don't really need anything that capacious. These are simply great mats for a great car.
Dave

[Deleted User] · January 2001

Thanks Dave. Re: you 2nd para; I completely agree. SOLD!

ateixeira · January 2001

Capacious? LOL!

-juice

theob · January 2001

Just curious: What are the major objections to the Subaru rubber mats that Darlene sells for $39.95 for a set of 4, delivered?
Theo

ateixeira · January 2001

That the custom mats aren't a custom fit.

I'm a huge Darlene fan, so if you buy them, get them from her.

It's just the mats themselves are too small. The rear are small, and even the front only cover the bottom half, unlike the carpeted mats.

Consider just using the regular mats, then buying a new set every 3 years or so. They fit much better.

Or get an aftermarket set and then trim it to fit.

-juice

texsubaru · February 2001

My red Forester just got scraped in a parking lot -- apparently by a white or silver car -- on a small patch on left front fender, just ahead of the wheel well. Left an oblong area maybe six inches in diameter that has numerous small but still very noticeable scratches, what appear to be streaks of white paint and a few tiny dark spots where I fear my paint may have been scraped off. Looking for any suggestions on what best to do?

p0926 · February 2001

Texsubaru- I'd try a fine grit rubbing compound on the effected area. You'll probably not get it to disappear completely but it should make it far less noticeable. Also make sure you wax the area afterwards.

-Frank P.

bg18947 · February 2001

I know how it feels. My wife's Legacy GT Ltd has two dents from the parking lot when it had less than 2000 miles on it. One on the driver's door, and the other in the driver's fender. They look like shopping cart dings to me based on the height and how it hit. I hate people who either don't put the carts back or placed them in a safe way in between cars.

ateixeira · February 2001

Sandy got a nice hand-washing on Friday. Took all that caked on road grime and salt off.

I swear you could almost hear her say "aaah!"

-juice

tlima · February 2001

BG, I've read on these boards that the "paintless" dent removal folks do a good job in removing dents. It may be just what you need.

Juice, I hear ya. I've been hand washing my 6mo old soob at least once a week and usually after dark, as long as the temp is above 35 - nothing like a clean car.

-Tony

ateixeira · February 2001

We finally got some warm weather on a day that I wasn't working, but it had been way too long.

We've only had 4.4" of snow, and we usually get 16-18" or so. Bummer!

-juice

bg18947 · February 2001

I don't think using pressure washers to flush out the salt is a good idea. I don't think the factory undercoating will last too long with frequent blastings. I think you're better of with the water company's normal hose pressure set to stream and spray.

I've stopped using my pressure-washer for plain washing as well. I find a hand-washing with regular hose pressure to yield cleaner results than a pressure washer with that car-wash solution. Nothing beats some elbow grease.

ateixeira · February 2001

I don't use a lot of pressure, actually. It's capable of cutting through wood at full blast.

Instead, I set the spray kind of wide. For the under side, a stream was actually better to remove the sand I had from the OBX.

I still use elbow grease, though. I use the pressurized water to soak it, then the container for car-wash solution to spread a layer of soapy water. I use my hand mitt to clean it (the elbow grease step), and the pressure washer to rinse.

The final touch is the California water blade, which dries it without leaving streaks. Works for me, since I have to wash 3 cars and it doen't take too long (all while the baby is napping).

-juice

gof4 · February 2001

Has anyone used any of their stuff . I have been reading the discussions on Zaino & other brands. Griot has a website at www.griotsgarage.com
I would be interested on anyone's comments .

Thanks.
..Bob

originalbitman · February 2001

I use Griots clay, Vinyl & Rubber Dressing and Best of Show wax. I like them all but can't really compare to anything else. The carnauba wax goes on very easily, beads well and lasts fairly long.

bit

kate5000 · February 2001

I've discovered an old bottle of Color Magic wax in my garage. It's a wax that was sold in mid-90s. I think (did not see it around lately), which came in a few basic colors. The idea was that it will make scratches invisible by blending with the color.

The bottle that I have is of burgundy color that matches a color of my old Loyale quite well. Since I'm seeing more and more nicks and scratches on the Loyale's hood, I've decided to give ColorMagic a shot. When you just apply it (before buffing) it does look like it hides the scratches. The trick is after you buffed it out, all but the tiniest scratches come back.

Most likely, it's a moot point, since I guess it's been discontinued, but I just wanted to let you know that it's a gimmick.

safeone · February 2001

Has anyone had any good luck removing pine tar from the cones dropping from a spruce tree? My forester got pelted in a wind storm the other night and the hood is covered with the stuff. Thanks for any help. Great clubs, been reading since I got the forster (01 s+ white) back in October.

ateixeira · February 2001

Bug & Tar removers will do it, but if it's all over the place I'd try something more mild first. Hot water and a detergent, maybe.

-juice

powderfinger77 · February 2001

I have a new OB 2001 Ltd. As we are currently in an apartment complex it is hard to wash by hand.

There is a Chevron down the road with a carwash where the car is put through the auto-wash (you can select wax, etc) and then hand vacuumed, dried, etc.

Do these type of car washes have any adverse affects over long-term??

Thanks

Caleb

kens · February 2001

Caleb,

Nothing beats hand-washing, but if you need to use a commercial car wash, try choosing the least abrasive types like "touchless" or "brushless".

The problem with commercial washes are that they never will get your car as clean as a hand wash. Also, the "wax" that you get from these washes are of very poor quality and won't do much in terms of improving the look of your paint let alone protecting it.

If washing it yourself is out of the question and you want to stay in a budget, try the coin-on self wash places if possible.

Ken

powderfinger77 · February 2001

Ken,

Cheers, think I'll be a hose and bucket!

[Deleted User] · February 2001

Caleb,

Also, ask how many times the car wash reuses water; some jurisdictions require this. Water is filtered to reduce turbidity (enough that it might even look clear) but for each reuse, water will absorb hydrophiles* like salt, solvent (gasoline, oil), and other chemicals that promote rust or damage the paint. It's possible the car wash mitigates with neutralizing chemicals but I wouldn't count on it. It's more likely the water is used a fixed number of times, then sent to the sewerage.

In the winter, think about how much road salt was washed off the cars in front of you in the car wash queue.

..Mike

*WDB, this one's for you. Flame me if I misused it (I well deserve it).

ateixeira · March 2001

Here's a tip I caught from a Saturn commercial - to clean your cloth seats, use packaging tape.

Seriously, use the sticky end and stick it on the seats, then pull it off carefully. Do this all over the surface until the tape is filthy.

You'll be surpried at how much comes off.

-juice

crashton6 · March 2001

Be careful when using bug/tar remover. Some brands have abrasives in them. It could scratch your clear coat. I use straight kerosine, then a good rinse & wash.

Good luck

Chuck

originalbitman · March 2001

Someone postedsomewhere here in the Subaru Crew that factory paint these days is cured right from the factory. Other folks have said you need to wait 6 weeks before the first wax. Anyone have a final answer?

bit

ateixeira · March 2001

Bit: it was me that was on the "wait 6 weeks" side, but if you use a non-abrasive carnauba based wax it shouldn't even matter.

Regardless, keep it clean until you do.

-juice

bat1161 · March 2001

You can also use WD40 to remove tar. I learned about it from one of these sites ( I think it might have been Juice back in Sept). Use just a little sprayed onto a cloth first, then rinse the area afterwards. Took the tar right off!

Mark

ateixeira · March 2001

It does work but I'd be hesitant to use it on painted panels. That stuff penetrates big time.

Try a small area first, and wash it thoroughly when you're done.

-juice

safeone · March 2001

Thanks for all the input on the pine tar removal, on my GTI (replaced by the forester) I had this happen too and when i tried the bug/tar remover it "bubbled" the clearcoat leaving a raised up spot in the shape of the outline of the tar spot. In a couple of spots it removed the paint altogether. This was done using the product that VW sold me, another reason why I didn't really want another VW was things like this. I'll try the kerosene as it seems like a good bet, had experience with WD on another car, good on chrome, bad on clear coats, on white especially where it "yellows" the paint. I'll let you know how it comes out as right now its below freezing, need a warm day....or snow to play in again :>

kens · March 2001

Bit -- It takes about 6 weeks for paint to cure after it's been applied to the sheet metal. Since it takes about 6-8 weeks for our vehicles to be assembled and shipped to dealers, you should be fine.

Ken

hammersley · March 2001

WD 40 works well for me... rub it on, wash the areas affected right away, and i usually spot-wax just to be sure. Clay bars work well for the smaller spots over larger areas (hoods, trunk lids).

On an interior note (off topic as it may be), just got my Dad's Buick back from the detailer yesterday - he's in hospital with pneumonia, but the upside is he's going to finally quit smoking, and I had to convert his car back from the ashtray on wheels it's been all these years. What an amazing transformation! Literally looks & smells like a new car! Something to think about before you sell your next car... or maybe a present to your SO... best $140 I've spent in a long time... truly amazing!

Cheers!
Paul

armac13 · March 2001

I quit smoking last spring, largely because I didn't want to turn my nice new Forester into said rolling ashtray. I had my Golf detailed and wow!! *Almost* made me want to hold onto it a while longer. It's been more than 9 months weedless for me, but if I ever relapse, I hope I'll never smoke and drive again (Rufus deserves better).

Ross

hammersley · March 2001

I have to disagree... you stopped smoking for you & yours... the cleaner car is just a definite side benefit! I'm 5 years & counting now... Dad's 1 week anniversary is about an hour from now! Not bad for a 76 year old, who a week ago was smoking 2 or 3 packs per day. I think at least one of those was smoked in his car every day - I had to drive it to the detail shop with the windows down in 25F weather.

Cheers!
Paul

armac13 · March 2001

you're right Paul except that there is no "mine" (poor me - sob). I started in 1966 because my 1st wife (then my girl friend) refused to quit. Join 'em if you can't beat 'em, etc. She quit 20 years ago, I quit in May. Rufus was just one more nudge for me to do what I had to do. I'm a psychologist, I have to play mind games or I get defrocked!

Ross

[Deleted User] · March 2001

hehe Good one, Ross.

..Mike

Subaru Crew - Cleaning Interior & Exterior Surfaces

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