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I had forgotten Car_Man's earlier posting numbers.
On the BMW lease I took in September, I mentioned, in an earlier posting, a charge labeled "Rent Charge" which was quite substantial ($3,262.32) and was added to the decline in value number before dividing by 24 to get the monthly payment.
Car_Man and kyfdx, is that business as usual or was that an exorbitant extra charge?
Regards,
SFCharlie
Depreciation (selling price - residual / no.of pymts.)
Finance charge (aka rent charge).. [MF X (residual + cap cost)] this gives you a monthly figure.. multiply it by the number of payments and you get a total "rent charge".
When you leased in September, residuals were likely very low.. it was the end of the model year.. Also, payments on a 24 month lease are usually fairly high and sometimes the end of the model year is not a good time to lease. Car_man gave you an example on an '05 a few posts back.. As you can see.. the lease deals on new '05 BMWs are generally pretty good right now..
regards,
kyfdx
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I forgot to ask what the Residual is on 30 Month Lease with only 10K miles per year?
Don Ackerman
BMW 545
BMW 530
Mercedes E500
Acura RL
Thanks as always.
kyfdx...I'm not sure of the "etiquette" of this forum, but I take everything I read here just as grist for the mill, so I don't experience your as usurping anyone's authority. Car_Man seems to read everything posted and so, I imagine, he would confirm, counterpoint, etc, as he sees fit...and you're comments are educational. So...
By working backwards (that is, knowing all the variables in the equation, except for the MF), I was able to calculate that the MF on my BMW lease was .00235 ... If I ended up paying a lot more than I "should have", it must have been due to either the adjusted cap cost of $33,620.43 being too high and/or the residual of $24,221.60 being too low. At least, it would appear that way. If I divide the residual of $24,000 by the Gross cap Cost of $34,000, the residual percentage would be about 70%, but maybe the residual should be divided by the MSRP (and they appeared to be taking about $3,000 of the MSRP because it was the end of the model year) which would produce a residual percent of about 65% which seems in the ballpark of what Car_Man thought. So, the only place I can figure I should pushed harder was on the price.
Regards to both Car_Man and kyfdx,
SFCharlie
1165 3 YEAR/18K.... LOOKS LIKE .00125% MONEY FACTOR AND 56 % RESIDUAL....WHAT DO YOU THINK...NOT SURE IF IT'S GOOD OR NOT.... O DOWN
THANKS
This is really Car_man's forum.. I know he doesn't mind the rest of us chipping in with comments.. I just try to let everyone know that I am not the expert that he is... And..most come here specifically for his advice..
Good luck with that MINI convertible,
kyfdx
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I was a novice when I leased my 2004 XC90. On a 15K mileage/yr, and 4 yr lease I pay 635/month.
Based on what I read in this forum, I got a screw-job on this deal. In any case, I called my bank (US Bank) to ask about the buy-out price. It's about 39K.
What are my options to get out of this lease? Any advise will be greatly appreciated.
In posting #16464 you quoted that Honda's lease money factor and residual value are .00077 and 55% for a basic Accord model. Will these numbers apply to a loaded Honda Accord EX 6 cylinder as well?
Thanks.
Auto, no leather or Navi
MSRP: 30,400
Selling price: 27,200
What is the MF, residual and payment for the following terms?
24/12k
36/12k
Thanks so much again.
Terry.
But, then again.. the dealer here is only 9 miles north of the line....
I'm sure someone is discounting.. but, you know if you can't find someone crowing about it on Edmunds, it must be kind of rare...
regards,
kyfdx
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Let em' sit in the snow for a few more weeks until the next floorplan check ... that ticking clock always has a tendency to wake someone up ..
Terry.
Recently, I came across a site (www.leasebusters.com) offering lease takeovers. Some of the offers were very attractive, with present owners offering upto a grand as additional discount to take over their lease.
Has anybody any experience in lease takeovers?
There are some savings, but what are the hidden traps in this?
Tier 1+ .00190
Tier 1 .00200
The residual on the model I am looking at (XLE Limited with limited package #2 (DVD & NAV) is 20,818 STD (52%) and 21,524 LOW (54%). Can you validate these numbers and tell me if these residuals are right? If so what does the STD, LOW mean? Which one should I use? I am in the Kansas City area. Thanks.
for a 2005 BMW X3 3.0i custom order:
$38,650 invoice / $42,220 MSRP
+ $440 over
+ $330 MACO
+ $384.67 fees
+ $825 acquisition fee
36 mos @ 15k/yr
MF .00125
Residual 57%
$500.00/mo including tax + $3735.37 total drive off
[I had requested them to limit to $500/mo initially]
Crunching these numbers down, I get:
$568.23/mo [including my 7.25% tax]
$1452.90 total drive off
--Are my numbers close?
--Should I insist on the base bank fee?
--How is this deal overall?
Thanks,
kchen7
Do you know the difference (score wise) between tier 1+ and tier 1?
Also do you know what the dollar amount difference translates into between Tier 1+ .00190
Tier 1 .00200?
$10 per month? More?
Car-man please feel free to jump in if you have any info.
Terry
If you were to lease a 2005 Saab 9-3 Arc Sedan through Saab Financial Services Corp. in January for 3 years with 12,000 miles per, its base lease money factor and residual value should be .00049 and 49%. Saab is also providing $2,500 lease cash on this car that will help you to negotiate an attractive capitalized cost.
Well, that pretty much sums it up, but please let me know if you have any other questions.
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It is usually fairly expensive to get out of leases well before their scheduled end dates. In order to do so, you need to purchase the vehicle that you are currently leasing from the bank that you are leasing it through. It often turns out that it costs more to do so than your vehicle is worth on the open market. Furthermore, many banks expect consumers who end their leases early to still make all, or at least the depreciation portion of their remaining lease payments. As you can see, this can get very expensive.
You can determine approximately how much it will cost you to get out of your current lease by comparing its purchase price to its value on the open market at this time. You should place a call to the bank that you are leasing your vehicle through to find out its exact price. Once you know exactly how much money it is going to cost you to buy your leased vehicle you need to compare it to its current value on the open market. You can find out approximately what your vehicle is worth by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You also may want to stop by the following discussion: "Real-World Trade-In Values". One of our most knowledgeable community members, Terry, frequents that discussion and he is often kind enough to give community members who give him an accurate description of their vehicles with his opinion on their value. Don't forget to check to see if you are still on the hook for your remaining lease payments. The difference between your leased vehicle's current value and how much it will cost you to buy it plus any remaining lease payments that you are obligated to pay will equal the cost of getting out of your lease right now. Purchasing your leased vehicle now will prevent you from having to pay any sort of excess mileage penalty, but you may find that you are better off waiting until you are closer to the scheduled end of your lease to get another new vehicle.
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Toyota has not announced what its lease program will be like on the 2005 Avalon yet. When this car is introduced, I highly doubt that Toyota will provide any sort of lease support on it. If that is indeed the case, and you were to lease one through Toyota Financial Services, you would have to use its standard lease money factor. The last time that I saw it, its base standard money factor for consumers who qualify for its Tier 1 credit tier was around .00225.
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If you were to lease a 2005 Mercedes-Benz E500 Sedan through Mercedes-Benz Credit right now for 39 months with 10,000 miles per year, its base lease money factor and residual value should be .00235 and 58%, respectively.
Last but not least, if you were to lease a 2005 Acura RL through American Honda Finance Corp. right now for 39 months with 12,000 miles per year, its base lease money factor and residual value should be .00235 and 49%.
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You can determine approximately how much it will cost you to get out of your current lease by comparing its purchase price to its value on the open market at this time. You should place a call to the bank that you are leasing your vehicle through to find out its exact price. Once you know exactly how much money it is going to cost you to buy your leased vehicle you need to compare it to its current value on the open market. You can find out approximately what your vehicle is worth by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You also may want to stop by the following discussion: "Real-World Trade-In Values". One of our most knowledgeable community members, Terry, frequents that discussion and he is often kind enough to give community members who give him an accurate description of their vehicles with his opinion on their value. Don't forget to check to see if you are still on the hook for your remaining lease payments. The difference between your leased vehicle's current value and how much it will cost you to buy it plus any remaining lease payments that you are obligated to pay will equal the cost of getting out of your lease right now. You may find that you are better off chalking up your expensive lease as a learning experience and waiting until you are closer to the scheduled end of your lease to get another new vehicle.
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Thanks for your reply, and I apologize for not giving you all the info. Here are the numbers for the vehicle:
MSRP $63165 (including gas guzzler and delivery)
Selling Price $54995 (This must be the CAP COST)
39 months at 10K miles per year
Residual $34025 (55%)
Down pmt $0 (but I need to pay 1st month + fees)
Money factor .00295
Quoted monthly payment $832.59 + tax
I hope the above info is complete for you. I've noticed in some of the other postings that money factors can vary for a given vehicle--is it dependant on credit scores?
Also, the salesman stated that an 05 E500 4MATIC's residual would be 58%--is the difference due to this being an 04 model? At only 10K miles per year, I would have thought the residual of 55% would have been slightly higher.
Thanks for looking into this
seacarfan
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I received a buy-out quote from the bank yesterday, and it is 38.6K. I need to check the other links you mentioned to see if it's worth keeping the vehicle or eat some costs, and sell it now.
Once again, thanks for your responses.
I would look there first...
regards,
kyfdx
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I come up with about $533 + tax.. which puts me about $5/mo. higher than your figure..
Also, I'm assuming your drive off includes 1st payment, the $384.67 in fees, and a security deposit.. The security deposit would be $600, not $500, so up your drive off by $100.
I think this is a good deal.. I wouldn't get sticky on that extra $200 in the bank fee, if they can get their numbers to agree with yours..
At this point.. you need to concentrate on just a few things.
1) That you are getting the exact car with the same MSRP as in the example.
2) The dealer agrees with your drive-off and monthly payment figure.. including tax.
3) The lease term is indeed 3yr/45K.
If all those terms are met.. then you can forget all of the other numbers you used to get to this point.. Just consider the deal at $640 over invoice, and be happy that you got a good deal.
regards,
kyfdx
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How close you think Edmunds residuals are compared to those that SETF uses?
Using my zip code, Edmunds gives me 57% residual for a 2005 4RunnerSR5 2wd for 36 months, 15k miles.
Cars.com gives me 54% for the 2004 model, same conditions.
Thanks for your response. Your advise and responses are so valuable and are of immense help to buyers like me. Please keep up the good work.
Thanks again.