I own a 1997 Buick Lesabre Limited, "Tim-Bob" Recently it has been powering off while driving. I have about 148,000+ miles on it. Had a complete tune-up, oil change, air filter change, and tire rotation about 2 months ago. I let it warm up a good 5 minutes or so before heading out.
My husband took the car to a reputable mechanic who charged us $300 for one small part (and I don't know which one it is) and labor. He opened the ENTIRE panel under the steering wheel and fixed the car. A little over a week later and Tim-Bob shuts off again.
I've done some reading & research and alot of people on this forum suggests that it's either the IAC or the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I'm willing to buy the part(s) but would like some advice before I proceed.
How does it shut off: Immediately, gives no warning
How does it re-start: Put the car in park and give the key a few cranks until it starts again
Any service engine lights: None at all
What part: Unknown, the mechanic didn't say and will not take my calls. I only know he opened up the entire panel under my steering wheel/steering column.
Shutoff: Varies, sometimes immediately and sometimes after a few miles
I have a 1993 buick lasabre I got with 13500 miles it was mint the original owner moved away and sold it to me for the price the junk yard was giving him. so I lucked out. The car ran great til about 10 days ago it felt like when I idle the engine is rough and chocking like it wants to stall, then it did im doing 65 on the highway I let off the gas and it will stall I put it in neutral and it cranks over right away. A few times i feel it about to stall and i step on the gas so it doesn't. I hit a bump on the highway at 70 it stalled but I again put it in Neutral and it turns back over, Where do I start cause I have been told a few things alternator, fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, I am struggling financially but I don't want to stall on the highway either PLEASE CAN I GET SOME ADVICE I am very handy with a wrench so I can save money on labor for an alternator job, But when there is no engine light or any clue where do I start to fix this issue PLEASE HELP!!!!
If no codes are found to give a hint as to what computer is reading as symptoms?...,
Are the spark plug wires replacements--not the original Packard brand from the factory?
Are spark plugs correct for the engine. Replacements by ACDelco work best. Some people had trouble with various other brands solved by replacements.
Are you losing any coolant. It was the Series II engine where coolant seeping into intake was a problem, but it's possible you might have intake gaskets letting coolant through.
Most of the symptoms sound like EGR valve is a possibility. Do not immerse in solvent and don't let solvent run up the shaft into the electrical mechanical parts in the top. But clean so that everything seals off at bottom with no coking and the shaft moves easily. I used gasoline outdoors as solvent and a soft bristle brush. There is a gasket but gentle removal didn't damage mine and I reused it.
The only thing suspicious is the bump at speed causing thing to die. Do check all the connections for ground wires to various parts, even the little cables that run to body or fenders. Same for positive leads, but disconnect ground at battery to avoid arcing and damaging you wiring fatally
The Series II engines had trouble with the crankshaft position sensors but those usually didn't restart immediate and had to cool to gain magnetic strength again.
A few Pontiac folks (same body) found quick stalls like the one at 60 were due to the ignition switch--not the key lock cylinder. But the actual switch body that is moved from contact to contact as you rotate the key. The contacts have worn and with vibration caused car to die with bumps. My test would be to move the wiring going to the steering column with the engine running and bang around a little on the column and the switch that sits on top of it. Switch is #80 in drawing.
I'd also clean the MAF sensor with spray to be sure the two fine wires inside don't have particles stuck to them. Do not touch wires. Before cleaning, you might tap the MAF with a screwdriver handle to see if that changes the way the engine idles but usually MAF just needs cleaning.
I have a 1990 Buick lesabre and my battery light came on so I took my battery off to charge it and when I put it bk on it won't even turn over what could the problem be?
The early Buicks have issues with a dirty Mass Air Flow Sensor causing problems. The simple test, unplug the sensor and take it for a drive. It will start rough but level out once the computer realizes the sensor is missing. Order a cheap one on eBay and replace it when it arrives.
Comments
Good Day All,
I own a 1997 Buick Lesabre Limited, "Tim-Bob" Recently it has been powering off while driving. I have about 148,000+ miles on it. Had a complete tune-up, oil change, air filter change, and tire rotation about 2 months ago. I let it warm up a good 5 minutes or so before heading out.
My husband took the car to a reputable mechanic who charged us $300 for one small part (and I don't know which one it is) and labor. He opened the ENTIRE panel under the steering wheel and fixed the car. A little over a week later and Tim-Bob shuts off again.
I've done some reading & research and alot of people on this forum suggests that it's either the IAC or the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I'm willing to buy the part(s) but would like some advice before I proceed.
How does it shut off? Immediately like the key was turned off? Or does it kind of misfire a few times?
How does it restart? Immediately? Or does it have sit 15-30 minutes before it restarts?
Any Service Engine lights come on as it shuts off?
What part was replaced?
Does the shutoff happen about the same length of time after you've started driving?
For the record, it only needs 10-30 seconds warm up before driving away gently. Saves gas.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
How does it shut off: Immediately, gives no warning
How does it re-start: Put the car in park and give the key a few cranks until it starts again
Any service engine lights: None at all
What part: Unknown, the mechanic didn't say and will not take my calls. I only know he opened up the entire panel under my steering wheel/steering column.
Shutoff: Varies, sometimes immediately and sometimes after a few miles
How To Read the Codes on a pre 1994 GM car
Are the spark plug wires replacements--not the original Packard brand from the factory?
Are spark plugs correct for the engine. Replacements by ACDelco work best. Some people had
trouble with various other brands solved by replacements.
Are you losing any coolant. It was the Series II engine where coolant seeping into intake
was a problem, but it's possible you might have intake gaskets letting coolant through.
Most of the symptoms sound like EGR valve is a possibility. Do not immerse in solvent
and don't let solvent run up the shaft into the electrical mechanical parts in the top. But
clean so that everything seals off at bottom with no coking and the shaft moves easily.
I used gasoline outdoors as solvent and a soft bristle brush. There is a gasket but gentle
removal didn't damage mine and I reused it.
The only thing suspicious is the bump at speed causing thing to die. Do check all the connections
for ground wires to various parts, even the little cables that run to body or fenders. Same for
positive leads, but disconnect ground at battery to avoid arcing and damaging you wiring
fatally
The Series II engines had trouble with the crankshaft position sensors but those usually
didn't restart immediate and had to cool to gain magnetic strength again.
A few Pontiac folks (same body) found quick stalls like the one at 60 were due to
the ignition switch--not the key lock cylinder. But the actual switch body that is
moved from contact to contact as you rotate the key. The contacts have worn and
with vibration caused car to die with bumps. My test would be to move the wiring
going to the steering column with the engine running and bang around a little on the
column and the switch that sits on top of it.
Switch is #80 in drawing.
http://www.rockauto.com/info/301/D1434C_Primary.jpg
Credit for diagram from http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/exploded-view-results.php?y=1993&ma=Buick&mo=LeSabre&d=Tilt&c=6012
I'd also clean the MAF sensor with spray to be sure the two fine wires inside don't have
particles stuck to them. Do not touch wires. Before cleaning, you might tap the MAF
with a screwdriver handle to see if that changes the way the engine idles but usually
MAF just needs cleaning.
Look for youtube videos on the MAF cleaning.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,