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Subaru Legacy: Typical high-mileage repairs?
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This is an inactive topic, so you're better off going to the Owners Clubs, then Subaru Crew.
98 and 99 had the Outback, Legacy 2.5 GT, GT Limited, and Outback Limited (from cheapest to most expensive).
Both are good years. All have the same Phase I 2.5l DOHC engine, with 165hp and 162 lb-ft of torque. You can get 5 speeds or autos on each, but the early Limiteds were auto only.
Resale value is very high, so beware. You may want to consider a new one - they are not much more expensive.
IMHO, problems will stand out like a sore thumb. When you test drive, turn off the radio and listen carefully. The engine should idle smoothly, the tranny should shift with precision, and there should be no gear whine, brake squeeking, or shakes/rattles that stand out.
The good news is that the powertrain warranty goes for 60 months/60k miles, so most of these will still be under warranty.
Good luck.
-juice
I bought my car brand new and was wondering if anyone else has experienced not-so-smooth transmission shifts with the automatic. It seems to engage every gear kind of jerky almost like a manual. I've driven in my friends Focus and you can barely tell the car is shifting. I especially notice my car jerk when I let off the gas and then apply throttle again. Please advise. Do I need to change the tranny fluid, check fuel injection?? Any info would be appreciated.
You may want to consider a swap of your ATF, maybe even to synthetic.
Selina: the new Legacys are pretty reliable. Why not look at a Legacy GT wagon? Consumer Reports ranks Subaru #7 among manufacturers (in terms of reliability) while Jeep is dead last, so surely you'll see an improvement.
-juice
If you have noticed a difference in shifting since you bought it, I would have it checked. However, if it has been the same since day 1, just chalk it up to Subaru AT's that are not the slickest in the industry (some might say they're awful). I can barely feel my '98 Maliboo shift while my '98 Legacy feels exactly as you described - quite jerky..
I have a 91 LHD Legacy. The steering rack is leaking a little round the steering column shaft & rack box. Is the rack servicable. Are there any seals that can be replaced.
Parimal
I took it to two other mechanices, but neither wanted to attempt to handle my cooling system because it was too tricky. They instructed me to take to the nearest Subaru dealership. They said the coolant runs backwards instead of the normal way. Could someone please explain this. I've only had this car for five months and have had my timing belt, water pump and the front and back cv boot replaced. I also had my radiator flushed because when I bought it the owner put water in the radiator instead of coolant and when the first real cold weather came my car's engine completely frozeand my power windows stopped functioning. I don't have those problems anymore, I am just wondering about how much would I have to overhaul the airconditioning system. I'd rather get it done now then to nickel and dime it later. I believe it is a pretty good car, but I won't take it on such a long trip the next time.
As for overheating, it sounds like your engine has already had its share of stresses upon it. Overheating can be tricky and a complex issue to resolve. You should first of all have the cooling system pressure-tested to see if you have head gasket damage either from the overheat or the freeze.
Last of all, these are sort of typical old car/high miles problems. You may want to consider bailing out of this car, it sounds like it's had a hard life.
Perhaps your overheating is not due to such a drastic malady. A clogged or rusted radiator, a bad thermostat or cooling fan, those are also possbilities.
Usually head gasket leaks or a bad thermostat cause a pretty fast overheat, whereas clogging makes for a more gradual overheat and usually only at higher speeds.. Air-bound cooling systems overheat pretty quickly, too, as there is no water circulation, similar to a bad thermostat.
Anyway, at the very minimum fix the fan so it works properly, and have him show you where it is and what it looks and sounds like when it's working, so that you can check it yourself if your temp gauge starts to go up again.
Oh and my legacy has 180,000 miles on it now.
I don't think a true air block was your problem because you have to bleed that out carefully according to a certain procedure. It's not the kind of thing that fixes itself as far as I can recall.
The cruise control motor has packed it in and other than that it runs like a watch. The body is still tight, and I would recommend these cars to most people as a good reliable vehicle. If you want all wheel drive, for the money you can't beat a Suburu!
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/
They were a little less conservative than Tire Rack, and let me go with 225mm tires. Tire Rack said they would rub, but they wrong just plain wrong.
Offsets are indeed unusual, but call and work with one of their techs. I even managed to find one that fit on special, so 16"x7" rims for my Forester cost just $75 a pop. That was cheaper than steel rims from Subaru!
That's great to hear Taylor! Keep 'er running!
-juice
Stock was 40mm, IIRC, so they sit 15mm further away from the rear spring base, which was closest to rubbing (but does not).
-juice
When the 4WD is engaged the rear end thumps, especially when moving slowly and turning. The problem has gotten progressively worse. No I cannot use 4WD.
I replaced the differential (with a friend), that did not solve the problem.
I was told by a transmission guy that the problem is caused by fluid flow. He said something about restricting fluid flow somehow solves the problem. He said it takes less than an hour.
The car has original transmission fluid in it. It is still clear and looks fine.
Any information would be appreciated.
In other words, aren't you only supposed to use that 4WD on slippery surfaces?
Sorry if I'm way off base here.
Other ideas - are the tires worn evenly? I've heard you can have no more than 1/2" difference in tread wear.
-juice
Your struts don't need replacing as long as they are still working properly. There is no maintenance replacement schedule.
You should try "bouncing" the suspension by placing all of your weight on, and then releasing, each of the four corners of your vehicle one after the other. If one or more corner continues the up/down bouncing for more than a couple of strokes, or if the strut looks like it has leaked fluid (exterior stains) you should consider replacement. Normally you would replace either both fronts or both rears, but at your mileage you might as well do all four corners.
Just curious.
-juice
With the 4WD in your vehicle, you should not really use the 4WD unless you need it (ala Juice's post).
What year is your Subaru? Does it have 4WD High and Low? Does it do this at both settings?
It may save you a lot of time and agg. if you go into a dealer to see what they think. Probably a lot less than putting in a new differential.
Just my thoughts
Patti
I have a 1991 legacy wagon, 139,000 miles.
I've always operated the car in 4wd. I thought you were supposed to! I started using front wheel drive when the problem started. Runs xk in 2wd, but I like 4wd, especially when its raining.
Went to a dealer, they said it would cost $1,100.00 to repair. They said it was the differential and charged me $35.
I am going to try a tarns fluid change.
I'll post results.
Juice, tires are evenly worn and still have good tread.
Thanks
Last November I changed to a full synthetic 5W-50. I have gone 6,000 miles since then, and changed the oil filter at 3,000 miles. I have been amazed at how clean the oil was. I couldn't even see soot for 3,000 miles, and it is as clean as the conventional was for half the distance.
I am also amazed at how much less oil was consumed. When it was changed out it was not low at all, and I only added a pint during the entire time.
Winter starts were fabulous, and I haven't not noticed a substantial difference in gas milege. My valve covers are not leaking at all.
Are there any known problems with continuing to use the heavier weight synthetic?
http://pub1.ezboard.com/fultimatesubarumessageboardsthenewgenerationofsubarus
It's a very good and thorough board. As to price, doesn't sound too bad if it doesn't have any major issues.
Good luck
Eric
I'm a little surprised that your oil consumption is down... sometimes switching to full synthetic in a high mileage engine can cause leaks to show up. Your engine may be in better shape than you thought! I've been told by my service dept. that 1 quart per 1000 miles is considered normal consumption in my 97 OB 2.5l.
Cheers!
Paul
Just my 2 cents.
-juice
The Subaru dealer pointed out this was a "junk yard" transmission, and that it may be installed incorrectly, or at least one of the sensors is not picking up. He says he has never seen that problem before, and that it would cost me a considerable amount to trouble shoot the problem.
He said if the transmission works, don't worry about it. It shifts great, the car runs great.
The used car dealer is willing to sell as is for black book average wholesale price, which is about $2500 below NADA retail.
Anyone familiar with this problem, or got a clue what I should do?
Don't go 139,000 without doing it like I did!
The site mentioned in post #133 is great! Alot of good information. It was particularly interesting to read about common problems; i.e. dim headlights, broken sun visor, transmission problems.
I'm looking into buying a used Legacy sedan, and I've found a very nice '95 LS. The only question is the mileage - 132,000. I know that Subaru makes a reliable car, but how many more miles can I expect to get out of this one, assuming that it's in good shape and hasn't gone through any major incidents? Any info or advice would be great. Thanks
(In the past, we have had to do nothing but typical maintenance on the car, so this kind of took us by surprise. But we also realize that any car is going to require new parts at some point...) We love Subarus (this is our second one), just waiting for Subaru to make a minivan.
The engine will probably last forever, it's the accessories that will give out, like the water pump, the belts, hoses, the A/C. Stuff like that. Just replace the water pump whenever you do the timing belt, and do all the belts/hoses each 60k miles or so (ASAP if you do not know the full service history of the vehicle).
-juice
Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be?
Thanks!!
No seriously I would guess some type of electrical short. probably with the starter, maybe starter motor or something. Probably related to the work done to replace the PS pump, just manifested itself after the wash. Its amazing how many Totally unrelated mechnical failures happen right after getting some work done. I had an old Tempo, got the heater core replaced. The next day the distributor cap disintegrated into 18 pieces (I counted em.) I'd check my batter/connections and then try to take some power staight to the starter motor if you can.
Patti
Even a little water in there can keep it from starting up. My wife's old Mirage would stall when it rained, and I found out part of the distributor cap had cracked and was letting water in.
-juice
Wouldn't you know, it started right up. That was the cheapest repair I ever had!!
Thanks for everyones suggestions.
That same shop may even have a remanufactured one, but I'd check on the price of an OE starter first at your dealer or subaruparts.com.
-juice
Are KYB, or Tokico struts better than Monroe or Gabriel?
Checking with dealers here, the KYB is available for half the price of the Subaru one, and has a permanent guarantee of replacement unlike Subaru's.
I'll check the owner's club.