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My husband replaced the TCM (which was matched to our part number and programmed per our VIN) and he replaced the input and output speed sensors, oil and filter for the transmission. The speedometer started working but the transmission is still dropping into limp mode. Next, we took our Jeep to the local dealership to have the TCM flashed which did not fix the problem. Note: the speedometer is now back to working sporadically. Back to the dealership, again, and they said that PCM was turning off the TCM. So, we purchased a PCM for our Jeep and installed that. Our car drove about 5 miles before the check engine light came on again, back to the dealership, again, sigh They spent 3 hours checking the electrical for shorts and said maybe it’s the Relay switch for the PCM/TCM. But, they really don’t know anything for sure. We really need to get our overdue smog check completed so we need the check engine light off and we can’t afford to keep throwing money at this problem.
Any suggestions???
Low Output SPD Sensor RPM Above 15 MPH
The relationship between the Output Shaft Speed Sensor and vehicle speed is not within acceptable limits.
Any Idea's?? Thanks All!!
It doesn't do it all the time,I changed the fluid and filter,pan was clean and oiled smelled fine.
But you can feel it shift while I am stopped,when it does that, it takes off in drive,thanks for any help?
I am not sure what transmission I have.
Thanks
I have a few other problems(I am illiterate about vehicles so bear with me), it doesn't feel right underneath my feet when I drive. I have been driving for over 20yrs and haven't felt this before. It almost feels as if something is grinding? I'm sure that's not the case but sure how else to describe it. My engine ticks and the dealership mechanic couldn't figure it out.
Just had breaks changed because they were sticking, still feels that way. I have a new electrical system put in because the alternator blew and fried it. And a gasket was leaking so it had to be drained of oil and replaced, it was underneath so dont ask me what it was lol. I love my jeep and want to keep it even.
tho it kills me in gas(45 miles to work one way). Anyone else have any of these issues?
I have a Jeep grand Cherokee 2009. 86K in total, looks like when I accelerate the transmission just gets stuck as though there is a limit? it wont go over 60mph.
what could the problem be?
Regarding your question regarding if we have fixed our transmission limp mode problem, the answers is yes, but... The fix only lasted 3 months. However, we repeated the battery disconnect, reconnect process and the MPH limit and it is working again.
Here's what we did: We replaced the TCM and the Jeep dealership found the PCM was also malfunctioning (it was turning off the TCM). So, we replaced the TCM, too and cleaned all of the connectors with canned air. (We bought our PCM and TCM remanufactured online for great price.) Then, we removed first the negative and then the positive battery connectors, (the order of removal is very important) then we let the car sit overnight. In the morning we replaced the battery cables, negative first, then positive. You should see that your engine light is no longer on. These fixes alone do not completely fix the problem. You MUST drive the first 50 miles after the fix at no more than 50 MPH, not 51 MPH or 52 MPH, no more than 50 MPH. We stayed around 46 MPH as we have slightly larger tires than stock and we did not adjust our speedometer for the MPH change.
This may seem like a lot of hassle. But, now if the transmission drops back into limp mode we simply have to redo the battery cable steps and the first 50 miles at no more than 50 MPH. We suspect the TCM and
PCM connectors may also need to be replaced but, we don't want to tackle that right now.
This fix is the result of a lot of research and a helpful mechanic at a Jeep dealership. But it really works and it's cheap.
Let me know how it works for you.
We purchased remanufactured ECM and TCM units online that were programmed specifically for our 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee by using our VIN. They were pretty easy to install. If you search on-line there are plenty of videos showing exactly how to replace them and then plug them in. Our units cost $125, plus tax and shipping each. A whole lot cheaper than going to a dealership. Our local Jeep dealer was going to charge $600 for just a PCM and $600 to install it.
Note: It is a very good idea to keep you speed under 50 mph for the first 50 miles after installing a PCM , TCM or both. We have found that this helps to prevent phantom check engine codes from returning. Really, keep it under 50 MPH. We kept our under 46 MPH as we have a little larger tires that than stock. Now, no more check engine lights.
Any thoughts?
Thank you!
We have two Jeep Grand Cherokees and we have found that whenever you have an intermittent Jeep problem it always, always, can be traced back to one of the computer control modules. On-line you should be able to locate diagrams of where your ECM and TCM modules are located in your engine compartment, then do the following:
1.) Disconnect the battery: negative and then positive terminal.
2.) For both the ECM and TCM units unplug the main cable and take a few hairs of a new paint brush and clean out the holes.
3.) Let the car sit disconnected overnight to reset the computers.
4.) Reconnect the ECM and TCM cables in the morning.
5.) Reconnect the battery: positive and then negative terminals.
6.) Important when you start using the car again, for the first 50 miles you MUST not drive a single MPH over 50 MPH. If you have bigger tires than the factory tires, stay under 44 MPH. This is a hassle but it is part of the process of fixing the problem. Which will return if you don't exactly follow all of the above steps exactly steps.
Once you are done check to see if you have any engine codes by turning your key to the on position without starting the car 3X in a row. The 3rd time don't turn off key and you see either numbers flashing, one or more, or the word done. Done is what you are hoping for. If not than go online and check the codes.
As a last resort you can replace both the ECM and TCM for around $125 each they're sold on the internet. They must be programmed to your VIN#. There pretty easy to replace. I went to a dealer the first time and they wanted to charge me $600.00 per unit and $400.00 to install each one.
Best of luck. Please post if this fixed your problem, or not.
Another thing which came to mind is I remember a while back reading in the forums about someone with an interment shifting problem in which they found their solution was a bad ground wire (something to do with the alternator). I can't remember where now but found something along the same lines in the Jeep columns at http://answers.edmunds.com/question-1998-Dodge-diesel-2500-automatic-transmissio- n-shifting-problem-Need-copy-Dodge-grounding-solution-fix-problem-29412.aspx . (Hopefully you can copy and paste to see the page as I don't know how to insert links here)
Good luck in your search for a solution.
Good luck,
Lake Tahoe Gal
We used the following company to exchange our PCM and TCM: carcomputerexchange.com They will need your VIN # in order to program the unit(s) before they send it to you. The cost was around $125 each. Much better than the $1,000 each that my local Jeep dealer wanted to charge for one unit and installation. To locate a video on how to install do a Internet search on your vehicle make and year with the keywords how to install PCM TCM video. There are several out for there for you to choose from.
My husband installed ours and he said it was pretty easy.
Best of Luck
Remove the battery cables, positive first, then negative. When you remove the PCM cables be sure to use a few bristles from a clean dry new paint brush to clean out the inside of the connectors. Install the PCM. We have found it is best to let the unit sit overnight before reconnecting the cables. Be sure to reverse the connection order when reconnecting positive first, then negative. When you are done your Jeep should run fine.
I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4WD 4.0. My son got it stuck in the mud (not on purpose), got it out, but now is having problems with it shifting from 1st to 2nd and it seems to take a few moments to kick into gear and go from a complete stop. Took it to a transmission shop, they put a computer to it and said that it was throwing a lot of codes and wants my son to bring it back. Said it was showing a bad 02 sensor and they think it might be that, that can be causing it not to shift.......anyone have any comments or know if it might be the PCM? The 02 sensor has been bad for a couple of years and we just never replaced it because of cost. Any help would be great so that we aren't paying a transmission shop for parts that don't need replaced.
I also forgot to state, that if you turn it off and let it set for a couple of minutes and restart it that usually it will shift with no problems.
My brother bought a 2001 WJ 4.0 two years a go and now the sound started to hear , on a cold start for 10 -15 seconds , also on warm start but less around 5 sec., from the trans i think , like a propeller is hitting on something metal ....
But reading all the posts , i can conclude that in America mechanics are bad , if you change everything in a trans. how can it be same , like before reparing ???
On the end probably , i'll by a reparation kit and do it alone , like on my 1991 GMC van
Abut a month ago I had the rear seal replaced and it was dry. Fixed it. Problem solved. Three days later I hear and feel this grinding and kinda zinging noise under the console. Strange. I bring it in and it behaved perfectly so the garage found nothing. I was driving along abut two weeks later and it making a zinging nois twice and quits.
Finally this last Sunday it went out. I was driving along and this HORRIBLE grinding stared under the console. It wouldn't stop making the sound no matter what gear it was in. In fact it wouldn't go in any gear not even park. The tow truck came and he towed it into the garage. This morning I get a call that he hopped in and fired it up and drove around town. Not a single sound. What the hell??? How is this possible? Any ideas?
Now it doesn't vibrate but now after driving for a little bit, it gets stuck in 3rd gear. From a dead start, it's slow to go forward unless I drop it to low 1 or 2. I'm guessing the cooling oil is heating up. If I let it sit over night everything's fine the next morning, until I'm driving for 20 minutes or so. At that point it locks into 3rd gear and will not shift up or down with speed. I'm at a loss any help would be appreciated.
Thank you