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Anyone know if the 6 speed can be a bolt-in replacement for the 5 speed?
1st gear 3.760 / 3.136 / 2.450
2nd gear 2.269 / 1.888 / 1.450
3rd gear 1.645 / 1.330 / 1.000
4th gear 1.257 / 1000 / 0.730
5th gear 1000 / 0.814 / -
6th gear - / 0.843 / -
Final drive 3.909 / 4.300 / 4.100
Phillip: 87 octane is fine if your timing is set to factory specs (10 degrees, I think). If the timing is advanced beyong 14 degrees BTDC, then you may need more octane.
-juice
Later hardtops had sound insulation, but I don't think they're much more quiet than the soft top.
Honestly, if noise is a crucial factor, the Miata just isn't the appropriate car for your tastes. Or consider owning one as a 3rd vehicle, if you can afford that.
-juice
Having said that, I initially found the noise a bit disconcerting, but quickly got used to it. I just don't expect to hear the nuances of any classical music playing. It's only when I move to a normal car when I realize. I agree that if you think the noise will be a bother, don't get it. The hardtop does reduce some of the noise from the wind and pattering caused by rain etc, but it's still a noisy car since the road and exhaust noise is still very apparent. The one thing the hardtop will do is stiffen up the feel of the car.
Thanks.
Surprisingly, no, during average cruising on city streets (less than 50 mph) even with the top down, you can speak at a relatively normal level and be heard. Due to the very good wind flow, wind noise is actually not the problem. At higher speeds, you never have to yell as such, but you will have to speak louver.
The Miata is noisy because you hear everything, engine drone, tire noise, exhaust noise, outside noise, wind noise over the closed top, rain on the top. It's prevalent at all times and you hear the drone of the exhaust even at moderate speeds. The noise is constant and the perception is that it is noisy. The actual noise level is definitely higher than your average car but it's not deafening by any standard.
As I said before, unless you are expecting a silent car, it's easy to get used to it. I actually like hearing the car, you feel more at one with what's happening. Just don't expect to hear the radio at all times. As you would expect, outside noise is also part of the problem.... the sum of all of the noises does tend to drown out the radio a bit.
In the end, noise is definitely the last thing that would keep me from buying this car. I almost have the problem that I feel my normal car is too quiet!
Buying a base Miata is highly recommended unless you want some of the performance features like the 6 speed and sports suspension. A base Miata is lighter and just as fun to toss around. The ride is a bit softer than a sports package model and is more suitable for everyday use on real roads. The less aggressive tires of the base Miata don't break traction as suddenly and are more progressive. A decent driver can really have a lot of fun sliding the Miata around. The sports model tends to grip almost too well.
I have a "loaded" 10th Anniversary Miata and I am pretty sure that I wouldn't miss a lot of the luxury features like leather seats, power locks, cruise control, Bose system. None of those are noticeable when I am having fun driving. I bought my 10AE only because I got a good deal on it, otherwise, I would have settled for a base Silver model.
So yes, absolutely, the base Miata is definitely the best way to get the most for your money as far as a back-to-basics two seat roadster.
In the article about the new 1999 Mazda Miata, "Mazda Works a Miracle", by Christian J. Wardlaw, Mr. Wardlaw said he had a 1997 twilight blue STO. Is his car still around, and if so, is it for sale? My STO was just totaled (1-5-2001) and I do not think I will get enough in the settlement (even though it is the other guys fault) to pay off the car, medical bills, and have enough left over to afford a new Miata. Mine was just an infant, with only 26,000 miles on it. It had numerous custom items, the gold package, four tires with less than 500 miles, a rear window two months old, and a pair of sway bars that had been on the car for a week and a half - when it rains, it pours.
I would appreciate any help.
http://www.miata.net/index2.html
http://pub42.ezboard.com/broadsterchat
good luck...
Please advise if you think Rags will fit and
the range of dogs that have traveled in the car -
I would plan to protect the console with a heavy rug of some sort.
Thanks for any and all responses - can't wait to hear from you...
Thanks again.
I'm probably right about at the size limit for a Miata, but as suggested above, try it yourself.
Noise? It's loud but you can have a conversation. I have a '93 with the MSS (Mazda Sensory Sound) and the road noise doesn't come close to drowning out this very good stereo. Newer ones are different, but I'm sure you'll hear the music.
Still, I often drive with the radio off to enjoy the journey and smell the roses.
Base Miatae aren't a bad choice. I have a CD player and rarely use it. The leather is slippery and cold in the winter (no heat on mine). I doubt I'd miss any of the stuff that came in my C package, except the nice looking alloys and the power steering (I prefer having that, some don't).
-juice
Another dilemma - Base as LS...the AS only comes in the AS version - please advise as to how well the Miata version of AS works - that may be the deciding factor. Does the AS have other features that the Base can't be optioned for (pg interior lighting, etc)?
Thanks for any father responses.
Shaw
the rest was supposed to have been about the ABS option only being available in the LS series.
Made no sense the way I originally typed it !
Shaw
Our Dals are between 45 and 55 pounds and do a good job of following the rules: No paws on the doors, dash, or behind the seat; Head inside when moving; Sit or lay when moving; Wait before getting in or out (so they do not jump in on your shades or exit into traffic); and No driving while I am driving.
Have fun.
(VP of Dalmatian Club of Greater Phoenix, Inc.)
Thanks for the input.
1. The 1990 is a rear wheel drive vehicle and, as such, the removal of the transmission, replacement of the clutch, and replacement of the transmission appears rather straightforward. Anyone with any experience doing this out there?
2. Where can I get shop manuals on it, and which are the best? Mazda's or a third party? If Mazda's, is there a website that carries them?
A local shop remembered putting a clutch in a Miata a year or so ago and could vaguely remember something giving him trouble, but not what it was. He thought it was bleeding the hydraulic clutch. I am not familiar with Mazda, but Toyota hydraulic clutches I have seen don't require breaking the line between the master and slave cylinders when dropping the transmission and don't have to be bled. Any input?
Thanks for your help.
by the way... you can't drive too scared. the miata is a very safe car, it is rated with 4 and 5 stars for its class. no, it's not a chevy impala, but it stops and handles much better. add a rollbar, if you want an added measure of safety.
ace
The information from the guys that changed their clutches served to reinforce what I thought, and that is the top bolts holding the transmission in place are a bear to get to and remove while under the cramped quarters of a car on jack stands.
I may still try it, though.
Thanks again for the help and the web site!
Bob Maige
Your input about a dog harness through a pet store makes a lot of sense - what do you tie it to? And you make a point that some are created more equal than others - which brands/types have you found to be the best and why?
Rags and I don't want to be defeated by minimal space but really need to know the score before investing so much into his next dog sled -
Thanks for your continuing input.
Shaw
It's a very light car and the 4 wheel disc brakes are easy to modulate. Come to think of it, I haven't locked them up once in about 3 months of ownership.
Do I fear getting run over? Not really. I tend to avoid highways and taking more scenic routes, which tend to be one lanes. I've followed WarpDrive's good advice and changed both the horn and my headlights to be more visible.
I have the cheapie Haynes manual, and though it's often criticized, it's worked for me the 3 or 4 times I've had to refer to it (to find the fuel filter and get torque specs). It was $13 at Pep Boys.
Whatever you do, get a torque wrench! Easily the most useful and important tool you'll own.
Sisko: my insurance is not that bad. It's not a primary vehicle (we have 3 for 2 drivers), but I only pay $502 per full year. That's actually less than both our Subaru Forester and Mazda 626.
-juice
Oh, regarding "stature". I weighed about 210 when I drove the B and more like 225 when I owned the Miatas. No problem.
BTW, I"m 6', 155 lbs with a 32" inseam. I fit fine in the Miata - should have bought one years...... ago!
Jim M.
-juice
Looking back to 1990, it appears these have been bulletproof reliable cars. I plan on spending the next two months searching for a really good example. Right now I count nearly 100 in the Atlanta market. How should I narrow it down? Q1) What is the price "sweet spot"? Of course I want to spend as little as possible, but it must be a good one. As a newbie, I'm thinking $10-12K range for a 95-96 with ~40K miles. But in the $6-8K range look to be some great values too. Q2) What should I look for (or avoid) that is not immediately obvious. What I don't know at this point could fill an encyclopedia. I appreciate it. Mark
With your kind of budget, you can shop for 92 and newer anyway, so I would.
The 92-93 have the smaller 1.6l engine, with 116hp and 25/30 EPA ratings. They also have only one air bag.
The 94 got the bigger engine (1.8l) with 128hp, but EPA ratings dropped to 23/27 I believe. It also got some extra chassis bracing and bigger brakes, plus a 2nd air bag.
In my case, I did not want the 2nd air bag, so later my daughter could ride up front with me. So I actually looked for an older one (with low miles).
Mods are abundant for any year Miata. You can go as far as you like with it.
I would look for rust (even though it's uncommon), paint chips/peeling, and proper alignment (sign of accident?). Do a compression test in each cylinder, looking for no more than 10% variation. Check panel alignment and then go for a long drive to see how it runs.
I manged to find a '93 C package (pretty loaded) for $7800 with only 26k miles. It's cherry so I feel like I'll get more out of it than the previous owner did, yet he basically paid for 2/3rds of it.
Once you get it, I'd do a full servicing, so you have a baseline (receipts can be forged). I mean oil & filter, air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve, O2 sensor, spark plugs, plug wires, transmission oil, differential oil, and an alignment.
Good luck.
-juice
-juice
Chuck