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Just following up. Decided against going with the other cars on my original list, but am still very much interested in the Altima 2.5S. Have you been able to get this month's residual and MF? I'm looking for 24 months and 12k per year. Also, are there any cash incentives I should know about? I'm in NY, if that matters.
Thanks,
Sean
It appears that calc rolls everything into the lease - even the first month's payment. It also appears that even if you 0 out the fees section it still rolls some extra money into the cap cost. Pretty messed up.
Try this one:
http://www.smartmoney.com/autos/leasing/index.cfm?story=cc
It does not roll anything into the lease at all. For example, plug in $15,000 cap cost, $7,500 residual, 36 payments, and 0.0024 money factor (not that you can put it in as MF or %) and it should come out to $262 a month (it is really $262.33, but close enough).
Then you can decide if you want to roll anything into the lease cap cost and see the results in the payment.
If you don't roll anything in, you would pay the acquisition fee, security deposit (if any) - which is your payment rounded to the nearest $25 or $50 increment, first month's payment, any dealer fees, tags, title, and any upfront taxes.
With MOST lease plans you can roll as much or as little of this stuff into the lease as you want - the more you do the less you pay at signing but the higher the payment each month. With a really cheap lease money factor (like the Accord < 1% current deal) why not roll as much into the lease and use Honda's money. With a higher rate lease, if you have the money then you might want to pay these things up front.
Dennis
So basically as far as I can see with the Edmunds calc you will need to pay first months payment and security deposit at signing... the rest is rolled into the monthly.
Use the other link I sent you. Then you can run the numbers any way you like. Rolled in everything, rolled in nothing, anything in between.
Dennis
It's so frustrating to do all of this research, negotiate selling prices, calculate lease payments, etc......then you find out that the numbers you expect the dealer to use when making the same calculations aren't even the same.
Has anyone found a semi-honest Acura dealer in Illinois or Ohio who will offer these vehicles at a healthy discount without marking up the money factor?
Ernest
I just avoid it.. it is a pitiful calculator.. I created an Excel spreadsheet... (okay, my 11-year-old helped me with it).
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There are 4 good BMW dealers in other parts of Florida and I will eventually try and deal with each one.
What happened was I was on Leasecompare.com last night(a great place for inflated money factors and deflated residuals) and they had a link to a BMWFS dealer's quote for the X5 4.4.
So I hooked up with that and a salesman got back to me that I should get a quote in writing from another dealer and they would try and beat it. Ridiculous.
Needless to say, that dealership is off my list.
I checked with BBB and this particular dealership has had many complaints.
I strongly advise everybody to check with BBB before negotiating with any dealership.
I even found an "ELITE" Lexus dealership-supposedly the cream of the crop-that had an unsatisfactory record with the BBB.
Buyer beware!
Sounds like price-gouging.
I posted about this several times - you know about 3rd party lease banks, right?
On a finance purchase you would not be forced to accept dealer financing, right? You realize you can get a loan from your bank, credit union, or other place and finance the cart?
Well, guess what? There are lease brokers that can lease you the car. I have used leasecompare.com a couple of times and it saved me money each time. But there is also lease-by-tel and any number of other ones online. Also look in your yellow pages and there may be some local folks as well.
I just checked on leasecompare and they will do 0.00220 and 56% on a 2005 TL w/NAV. The way it works is you make your best deal and then when the dealer stiffs you on the lease, you go online and apply and get approved. Then LC overnight paperwork to you and you overnight it back, then they wire transfer or overnight a cashier's check to the dealership and you show up and drive your new car home. The dealer does even get to stiff you for a doc fee, since LC sends you a drive out tag and handles the tags and registration for you. The others should work the same way.
This way you can stick it to them by getting the car but not paying what they ask for financing.
Why do they do this? Because they can. Not enough Acura dealers to go around so they mostly refuse to deal. Also, a lot of dealerships now are owned by big chains or corporations and they have to report a profit on every phase of the transaction.
My local BMW dealer is like this and they would rather lose a sale than to give the buy rate on a loan or lease. I got leasecompare to do the lease and even beat them out of their $500-600 (some sill number) "doc fee".
Wake up, man! You don't have to take their finance offer!
BTW, for my money I think I would get the Accord Hybrid rather than the TL - if you were going to get the auto TL anyway. Very quick car (fastest Accord sedan) and good mileage driven "right" and super mileage if you putt-putt around. Less money too - and LOTS of Honda dealers to compete for your business.
Dennis
Can you please provide MR & Residual value for 2005 Nissan Maxima SE (6M) on 24/15K and 36/15K? Thanks
-JA
Can you please provide MR & Residual value for 2005 Nissan 350Z TOURING Coupe and Roadster (both Manual) on 24/15K and 36/15K? Thanks
-JA
Can you please provide MR & Residual value for 2005 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE (Manual) on 24/15K and 36/15K? Thanks
-JA
I flew down and drove mine back as did my boss. Well worth the trip for what we saved.
He specializes is getting cars without ordering them. If he does not have it, he will try to find one on order elsewhere (not sold) that is already built and on the way "on the boat" or at the dock. Then he swaps a future build with the dealer and gets the car.
About the only downside is you need to get right to the dealership once he has the car. The paperwork and "sale" is dated when they get the car in and ready. If you wait a week to pick it up you have a 1 week shorter warranty
E-mail me via profile and I can pass along info if you are interested.
I think in FL isn't there a "bring it in from out of state" penalty/tax if you do this? I don't remember how much that is, but I would check into that first.
Dennis
I have Lease-It! in my Palm pilot as well.
I wonder who at Edmunds we can e-mail about the bugs in their calc?
Dennis
2005 Altima 2.5S Auto w/Splash Guard, Protection Pkg & Mats — 24 MONTHS — $199/MONTH — $1,699/INITIAL PAYMENT
Excludes taxes, title, license and options. $1,699 initial payment required at consummation. (Includes $1,500 consumer down payment, $199 first month payment, $0 security deposit).
2005 Altima 2.5S Auto w/Splash Guard, Protection Pkg & Mats (model #05715/05215) subject to availability to qualified lessees through Infiniti-Nissan LT. MSRP $20,620 includes destination charge. Net capitalized cost of $18,542 includes a $550 non-refundable acquisition fee ($795 non-refundable acquisition fee for residents of New York and Rhode Island). $1,128 dealer discount required, which may affect actual price set by dealer. Monthly payments total $4,776.00. At lease end, purchase for $14,227.80, plus $150 purchase option fee (except KS & WI), plus tax, or pay excess wear and tear plus $0.15 per mile for mileage over 12,000 miles per year. Lessee is responsible for maintenance and repairs. See participating Dealer for details. Offer ends 05/02/2005.
MSRP = $20,620 Residual = $14,227.80 means the residual percentage is 69%.
If you plug the net cap cost $18,542 and the payment and residual into a lease calculator and solve for money factor you get 0.00059 or 1.1416%.
There is a $1,500 rebate on the car and I think it can be combined with the lease deal. If so, you should be able to get the car without the cap cost reduction listed here. Actually, it lists a $1,500 cap cost reduction so maybe they assume you are going to use the rebate as that.
You should have done this deal last month, the money factor was about 0.5% for the same car.
Dennis
MSRP 34,320 sorry for not including in my original post. Thanks
Is this something that is one all their websites??
Anyway, I think I'm going to go with the Accord EX-L V6. The Hybrid is nice, but is a terrible car to lease (too expensive and low residual). But I think I'll be happy with my decision.
Ernest
I have already decided to go with the 2005 Accord for my next car. Thanks for your help with that decision!
I am curious about the Honda Element though. I haven't seen it discussed on here. We are also leasing an Odyssey right now but might want to switch to the Element when we replace it. I'm wondering how well the Element leases.
Could you give me residuals and money factors on the following Elements, based on a 3-year lease at 12,000 miles year?
- Element EX 2WD
- Element EX AWD
Thanks!
Ernest
Can you tell me the lease rate and residual for an '05 CTS V series?
I gather the lease rate is 3.95%, but the residual eludes me.
I'm in the Chicago area.
I've been reading through all the posts - thanks for all the great information!
I'm about to lease a V-series and want to make sure the dealer is on the up and up with their numbers.
cheers,
Frank
That is true about Honda Finance, but I would not pay an inflated MF and further line the dealer's pockets in any case. Either get something else (as you are doing) or go some place else (harder to do on an Acura) or get a 3rd party lease.
Dennis
P.S. "Go Colts!"
Room for only 4 - the back seat can't be used for 3 even in a pinch (no seatbelt).
Get in the waterproof seats on a cold day and you will be wishing for the velour or heated leather of the Accord
The hose-it-out interior is fine for some folks, but not as comfy or "nice" as we would like.
I have not seen a Honda lease deal on these, so I will interested in what car_man says. I do know they don't sell that well, so Honda still has 1.9% for 60 months on them and dealers will deal down low on them. Of course, with the current Accord incentives the Accord is cheaper to buy now. The ALG 3/36k residual appears to be 54% on the AWD EX - which is a pretty decent number. The FWD is 52%.
If it is like the CR-V the AWD will lease better through Honda finance as well due to a stronger residual.
I have some friends with one and they love it. But they have a couple of big (messy) dogs so that is perfect for them. They have an S2000 for fun times, and the Element for times when they are taking the dogs some place - or are going to the beach, etc.
Dennis
Both were very hot lease deals (VS a new lease of the same car).
What is your question? Can you do it? Yes. Is it a good deal? Depends on the car and the price. Risky? Not if you have a warranty that goes past the end of the lease.
Dennis
I learnt a lot from you in this board and finally pulled the trigger on a MDX Touring Lease in NJ. The MSRP was about $40,500 and the sellling price $36,750. I did go against your suggestion and put down $999 to lower the monthly payments to $414.50 pre-tax. I agreed with your observation that the Acura Lease Support on this SUV is pretty decent, I was getting similar quotes on the Toyota Highlander ( V6 AWD Ltd ) which are probably not quite at the same level as a SUV as the MDX Touring.
Thank you all in this board, this was my first lease.
Regards.
I was wondering if you could give me the residual value and money factor on a 48month/15k lease on a 2005 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V8 - 2WD for the Southeast Regions - specifically Alabama. Thanks for your help!
I'd greatly appreciate any help you can give me calculating a sample lease on a 2005 Pontiac GTO I am looking at. This is my first lease and want to make sure I don't walk into the dealership empty handed.
Lease terms: 3years/12k miles
MSRP: 33,690
Selling Price: 31,902.78 (this includes the 1,000 bonus cash)
This deal is in Louisiana.
Thank you for your time.
Thanks for the reply.
Actually, after much research and thinking about it- I will lease the new Avalon.
Are you familair with any of the "lease swap" websites out there? There are two primary websites that allow people to list their vehicles and let other's assume the lease.
They point out NOT every financial instituition supports this. Luckily, Toyota Financial does...and for a fee of just $35 from the info I got.
However, I will be double checking with the dealer when I get it.
The bummer is that I'll be moving down the Florida (from NY) end of this month and on the Avalon 2005+ forum it seems all South FL dealers are selling it for $3995 ABOVE MSRP!
I am *hoping* Central Florida will be a bit better. I don't want to pay more than $500-$1000 over invoice for the Avalon Limited. According to North Carolina dealer site where they list Avalon invoice [Florida dealers do not], it seems invoice is appx 10% off MSRP, though I understand this varies by region.
I'd fly out of state, but must keep in mind the vehicle needs to be turned in to that state.
Basically, I ain't paying $4k over invoice no matter what.
I plan to buy last 2 days of this month. *Maybe* that will help a bit...and I am willing to take what they have in stock as well.
Any specific advise regarding a lease on the 2005 Avalon Limited? I really want this vehicle.
Thanks a bunch. Your efforts are gretaly appreciated here, and I'm sure I speak for everyone!
Regards,
Dean
Any info yet on the 9-7X.?
And do you know whether or not GM is currently running its early out lease program?
Have a lease up in July and would like to order either a 9-7X or an Envoy Denali, depending on terms, and early out on current lease. :shades:
I just pulled my credit report through Experian and it's pretty bad. My credit score is 544. How badly will this affect my leasing? Will I have to get a co-signor?
Please let me know.
Thanks much also for the info you gave me on the Honda, btw.
i'm just finishing the first year of a 3 year lease on my BMW 330CI and it looks like i'll be putting about half the milage allowed on this vehicle by the time the lease is done based on my current driving habits (about 6k miles/yr).
my lease is up in 2007 but i would hate to return it 'half-used'. it's been a wonderful car so far and i'm thinking of just keeping it but i'm a little concerned about what the new '07 coupes will do to the market value of the current generation. what would you do?
by the time the lease is up it will have another year of warranty available plus i can extend it for another 2 years for about $2000 with a $200 deductible but i find this expensive. do you suggest i get extended coverage if i buy the car?
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As I said earlier, once you know exactly how much money it is going to cost you to buy your leased vehicle you need to compare it to its current value on the open market. You can find out approximately what your vehicle is worth by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You also may want to stop by the following discussion: "Real-World Trade-In Values". One of our most knowledgeable community members, Terry, frequents that discussion and he is often kind enough to give community members who give him an accurate description of their vehicles with his opinion on their value.
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P.S. AHFC's 3 year, 15,000 miles per numbers for an '05 TL with navigation are currently .00240 and 57%.
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