Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
Options
Lease Questions - Ask Here
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
Can you please supply me with the residuals and MF for a 2005 Pacifica Touring 26S AWD and FWD. It would be for a 39 month, 12k/year lease.
Thanks!
I got "Pre Approved" for the lease on my wife's new Accord, but that was a joke. I had to fill out another credit app, etc at the dealership. With BMWFS you get pre-approved, then once you make your deal your "Assign" the app to the dealership and they get it. You show up to get your car, sign, and drive off - no 2nd app to fill out. I guess I just wasted my time with the Honda online "pre-approval" process.
I guess it is up to you. If you have a car you can drive safely and reliably now, then why not get your score bumped up and wait until you can get what you want? If you just gotta have something now, then just compare what Honda and Toyota can do for you and pick the best deal.
Dennis
Also, they will likely have access to something like "LeaseTrack" - an online system that has a TON of lease banks in there along with what money factors and residuals they offer (the residuals tend to be the same) for each vehicle. The user (lease agent) can sort this list by cheapest for customer, most money for themselves, etc. This way they can give you the best deal on the lease and maybe save money on the cap cost as well. Unless the captive lease bank has a special on the lease, quite often a 3rd party lease agent can do the lease for less.
Of course, YMMV
Dennis
- 4-door, midsized
- lux/near-lux
- prefer a manual transmission
Some cars that fit would be the G35 sedan, BMW 5-series (kind of expensive for what you get), Acura TL (a little on the small side), etc.
Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance
Looking into leasing these vehicles can you give me the 3yr 12000 miles numbers
I live in ny.
Thanks
Gary
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
From what I understand, NJ has a 6% lease tax that is due on the difference between cap cost and residual. So if your cap cost is $20k and the residual is $10k then $600 tax is due when you sign the lease. Most banks will let you roll this into the lease.
I don't know what the 3% could be, unless there is some local lease tax in the city/county where the dealer is located?
Dennis
I am interested in leasing the new Jetta (Value or Package #1) and was wondering if you have seen any numbers (residual and money factor) for either yet. I can't seem to find anything. I live in New York, it would be a 36-month, 15,000 miles/yr lease, and my credit score is 715 (if that helps). Thank you.
The G35 enjoys strong residual numbers so makes a great lease deal if you can get a discount on the car. Good news for you is that Grubbs up in the DFW area is know for making super deals on Infinitis. I think they would have to get you a 6mt from the port, since most dealers sell few and stock few or none. I would guess within a few hundred of invoice price would be the cost.
There are March Infiniti lease numbers for the sedan:
24/30k 0.00179 70%
36/45k 0.00179 60%
3rd party lease bank residuals will not be quite as strong on the sedan so the Infiniti captive lease would be the way to go.
About the only downside is the dated (now) styling which I think will be replaced soon. The interior was upgraded and now looks better, but maybe not quite as nice as the other 2 you mentioned. Back seat is a little tight as well.
It will not lease as well, but the Volvo V60r can be had at deep discounts now and can be had with an manual transmission. The back seat is tight on it as well, but the interior looks better (to me) - for sure if the optional, expensive leather is optioned. Volvo dealers have trouble selling a 300hp hot rod, so there is serious dealer incentive to move them.
You could also look at the "old" BMW 3 series - the 330i or 330i w/performance pack. There is a large ($4,500?) dealer incentive on them right now. They are not any smaller than the G35 in back seat room - and (to my eyes) much nicer looking. They will not lease as well as the G35, though - cost more, higher MF, lower residual.
The current numbers on the 330i sedan:
24/30k 0.00225 61%
36/45k 0.00225 52%
Dennis
My question is, what can I expect to happen when the NMAC person inspects my SUV - both things to prepare for (like having the car detailed) and what the process will entail (time lines, etc.)? I've read some scary stories on the boards about additional costs tacked on by NMAC - so I'm a bit concerned.
My SUV is only at 27,000 miles, and my lease allows for 60,000. The car is very clean and well taken care of - no dings, windshield chips or missing parts. The only thing that is worn out is the driver side floor mat!
Thanks,
Amy
I am still in negotiation with the dealer and he seems to be willing to take an additional amount off of the selling price. So that I am able to calculate the lease rate on whatever offer I can get, can you please provide me with the MF and residual on the car for both 36/12k and 36/15k?
I appreciate your help and your time.
Are your comments on G35 dated styling, based on conjecture or tangible data?
I'm not criticizing - just wondering what changes we might see in 2006 since the 2005 MY is half over.
I am intrigued by the Volvo V60 R, maybe even the V70 R wagon. I think I'll pay a visit to our local Infiniti and Volvo dealers and see what's what. Thanks again.
There are 24 mo promotional leases on both. Are either a good deal?
Saab: 389/mo $2,999 due at signing, 24,000 miles MSRP $37,820.
Audi: 399/mo $3,373 due at signinig, 20,000 miles MSRP $38,820.
Can you provide the residuals and money factor for these if leased in Massachusetts?
thanks
Sorry to mislead you, I must have typed faster than my brain could think.....
Dennis
2005 Pacifica AWD
26U package
Rear Seat Video
17x7 chrome wheels
Power Moonroof
($36,240 msrp total...options included)
$440 per month (39 months)
$589 due at signing (1st payment, doc, title, license)
taxes rolled into lease (6.5%)
12K per year
$32,811 vehicle price
$17,032 residual
Money Factor .00089
Go to carsdirect.com and build a similar car using your ZIP code. When I check with the Atlanta ZIP the price comes up $50 over invoice less the $3k in rebates.
Actually, there are more rebates - so maybe it is $1,750 cash with your lease deal? If so the your price is closer to being "right".
Did car_man verify the MF as the buy rate? I seems cheap enough (2.1%) and the dealer can't change the residual.
You have more patients than me if you spend 3 hours at the dealership. I would do this sort of thing online or on the phone/fax.
Dennis
Thanks,
John
Could you please let me know what the residuals, money factor and payment would be for an 2005 Audi A4 2.0T through their captive lease company ?
The MSRP of the car is $34,120 and the negotiated selling price would be $ 32,700. The terms I am looking at are 24 months / 12K miles per year and 36 months / 12 K miles per year.
I live in California. Thanks in advance !
I plan to lease an Infiniti M35 in the next week. The MSRP is $47,460 and I hope to negotiate to at least $46m. The problem is that I drive a minimum of 25,000 miles a year and lease for three years. In the past I've pre-purchased miles at a discounted rate. What is the best strategy to keep my monthly payments in reach and what do anticipate the monthly fee will be?
I also live in Southern California
Thank you
The numbers I have (I left after he drew up the contract and said I'd be back tomorrow) are MSRP 41940. Gross cap 41825. Net Cap 39825. starting cost 3256, Dealer Rebates 2000 off the starting costs, leaving me 1256 due (of which I only have to pay the first month lease, dealer says he is discounting the rest (-667). 15K /yr lease. Gap Ins included. RV 21389 (51%). MF .00064 . Monthly lease rate 551 +tax = 589/month. He said the RV went from 52% down to 51% since I want 15K instead of 12K..
Does this seem reasonable, or is he hiding some significant inflated profit? Should I pick it up tomorrow or shop around?
I appreciate your time and help on this question. Your forum has been a great help.
-Snaj
So Sedan (x) for me... I wish there were more AWD luxury sports sedans... But this one is definitely the most economical. (Aside from gas)
Also agree with you on the styling - I don't care for the rear end. But I love the front, and the AWD with RWD performance.
One wonders with slow moving inventory - if we'll see some incentives on these cars soon.
Also, I have a trade-in, and I've been told by a number of people that the best way to get a good value for the trade is to tell the salesperson you don't have a trade, negotiate the price of the car your buying, and then spring the trade-in on them at the end. Somewhat underhanded, but then again, so too are many salespersons. Is that the way to do it? Thanks!
I got "Pre Approved" for the lease on my wife's new Accord, but that was a joke. I had to fill out another credit app, etc at the dealership. With BMWFS you get pre-approved, then once you make your deal your "Assign" the app to the dealership and they get it. You show up to get your car, sign, and drive off - no 2nd app to fill out. I guess I just wasted my time with the Honda online "pre-approval" process.
I guess it is up to you. If you have a car you can drive safely and reliably now, then why not get your score bumped up and wait until you can get what you want? If you just gotta have something now, then just compare what Honda and Toyota can do for you and pick the best deal.
Dennis'
Thx! It's such a relief to hear that being pre-approved means I'll most likely get a lease. I wish I did have a car currently. It would be one less thing for me to worry about. But I live in NYC and don't have a car, never really having had the need for the added expense with subways & taxis at my disposal. But my move to Florida changes that whole scenario & I'm now forced to get one. I just wonder if I should buy a used car or lease a car. I don't have that much $$ to spend so I thought leasing would be the quick fix. I guess I'll just have to see how it goes. And either way, I will definitely take more care to keep a close watch on how I handle my credit!
Thanks again guys, you've been great!
vgurl
Go to the Edmunds used price guide here and get trade in value, also check KBB trade in. I check a GLS 1.8 w/43k and it shows only $9,500 trade in value. But you need to check with all the right options, etc and what comes up. This is ABOUT what a dealer might give you for it - in trade for a new car. CarMax might also be interested in buying it, if they have a store in your area.
In most states, sales tax is either paid on the payment or on the depreciation up front. In either case, you never paid sales tax on the whole price of the car. This means if you try to buy and re-sell the car you will have to pay tax on the buy out price. This will further raise the price you need to get for selling the car. In most states someone other than the lessee (you) or a dealer can't buy the car at all - so to sell it to another person you would have to go through a dealer to avoid the extra tax.
You should also check with your lease bank and see if the $12,299 includes sales tax or not. It is possible that they included the tax in the price, since it would have to be collected on the sale. If so, then what a DEALER would have to pay would be less since they would not pay the tax.
The purpose of the pre-turn-in inspection is so you have no surprises and to give you the option of fixing this yourself or paying them. So go to one of those paintless dent repair places (Dent Doctor, Dent Wizard, etc) and get a quote on popping out the dents and any of the other damage they can repair for you. Make it really clear that you are paying for this out of pocket and be prepared to try a few to get the best quote. Most have a money back guarantee - if they can't fix it or you can still see it, you don't pay. I had a BADLY hail dinged car fixed this way and you could not tell it ever had a dent in it after they were done. BTW, your car insurance should have covered the hail dings if you had turned it in at that time. You don't say what the other problems are - bald tires, interior damage, scratches, or what. Buy you might be able to cheaply fix some of these thing yourself and avoid most or all of the charges at turn in.
Car dealers would be interested in buying your car if you are getting a new one from them, or if you can price it below trade in at an auction price. Otherwise, they could get the same car at auction for much lower than "trade-in" value.
Dennis
Thanks,
kmill
within the next 4 weeks. i will let you know how it went
I need to understand / confirm some details on how the GM Smartbuy works - but more importantly, need to understand the flow of formulas/numbers as the monthly payment is determined. Assuming MSRP of the vehicle is 51545, 0 down, taxes (8.625% in NYS, right ?) rolled into the payment, APR is 3.95% (money factor is unknown, but I figure 3.95 / 2400 = 0.001645 (is that right ?), term 36 months, 15k miles. Any clues ? Thank you in advance.
Can you give me the same numbers for the CRV, both the EX AWD and SE AWD versions?
I want to compare it since it's in the same price range, and see if it's a cheaper vehicle to lease.
Thanks again!
Ernest
Can you give me residuals and money factor for an 05 Toyota Corolla LE Auto please? Not sure how options affect residual, but I'm looking at ABS w/ Side-balloons optioned model. Would like:
24mo/30k, 36mo/45k
Thanks :shades:
I'm in Massachusetts - I know Toyota has some funky regional-fu going on.
you say turn it in then buy it back as a BMW CPO but can I still certify it if I buy out the car early from the lease or does this only work for leased cars? should i wait until the car is 3 or 4 years old to certify it?
btw, the guys at the dealership were surprised I knew about this little secret of buying it back as a CPO. they were trying to convince me that the third party warranty by GMAC would be better. some how i think this was a sales pitch.
thanks.
Warning... this might be hard to pull off as well as he did..
pen101, "BMW 5-Series: Prices Paid & Buying Experience" #1215, 30 Dec 2004 7:28 pm
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
If you wait until lease end and turn it in, BMWFS will offer the car to your turn in dealer - NORMALLY at a price that is lower than your buy out price was. This difference can help cover the CPO fee, anything needed on the car to make it pass CPO, and dealer profit. If you were really lucky, it might cover it all.
Like I said, the used car manager at the BMW dealer should be able to give you and idea of what they are being offered and for what amount around the time of your turn in. Then you can work with them on the turn in and CPO buy out.
Dennis
Can you please post the April MF and Res for '05 Honda Pilot EX-L w/ DVD (No nav) for 36 months, both 12 and 15K miles.
Thanks
Gregg
in addition, my current car is up in August, it needs to be inspected in July, does it make sense for Nissan to pick up my Honda payments now ($388) to avoid any improvements I may need to make-
thanks.
Thanks again
Could you recomend me going with this deal?
My original wishlist was either of the following, but they don't have back seats.
S2000
350z Touring Roadster
Otherwise, for a 4-5 seater, I'm looking at:
Ford Mustang GT Premium
Chrysler Sebring Limited
CLK320
325
Any other suggestions? I'm figuring the CLK and the 325 will be a stretch due to the nature of BMWFS wanting to charge premium over the MF. I listed the 2xRoadsters as I haven't yet completely given up that option ... it all comes down to cost. Lease term I'm looking for something with the best overall bang for the buck, so I'm guessing 36-48 months more than likely.
Thank you everyone in advance.