Dodge Dakota - General Topic

bobs5 · March 2001

My 2001 Quad has hood insulation and the light inside the console.
This truck was delivered 11/18/00.

bobs5 · March 2001

I too would like to have tow hooks up front.
If anyone knows if this is possible please share the information.

I agree this is stupidity not to have them. Is this Dodge's way of cost cutting?

weebedna · March 2001

The underhood insulation is only standard on the SLT. I had to order mine from the dealer (the pad was about $45 and the clips about $20.

ohc_baby · March 2001

Actually, the Silencer Pad under the hood on the SLTs WAS standard. New ones don't have them. I checked out my local harda$$ dealer (nice area of town, so they charge what they want) and ALL SLTs on the lot had naked hoods. I'm going to order a 2000 R/T pad soon, as they have a rams-head logo on them to boot.

ayrow · March 2001

Hey guys,

I may have solved the problem with installing tow hooks on my 2001 QC.

I spent the day measuring, drawing, drafting, and designing a couple of specific pieces of steel that will bolt into the existing holes in the QC frame up front.
I took them to a machine shop to have them made.

As a result, if all goes well, I will be able to mount standard tow hooks up there that will pass through the holes that Dodge cut in the facia. They should be plenty strong enough too.

I took the specs to the shop this morning and will receive them probably by Monday at the latest.

I keep you guys updated when I get them.

bcarter3 · March 2001

My friend with the missing insulation for the hood went back to the dealer, pointed out to them that their brochure indicated that it was part of the SLT Package and they installed it today. Now he is having them provide for the light in the console as that is also advertised as being part of the Bucket Seat Option. The dealer could not provide documentation from DC that either of these things had been discontinued. That dealer has received a new fully equipped Quad since the 10th of March and it has the insulation and the console light.

ayrow · March 2001

I've got the original OEM airbox from my 2001 QC for sale on Ebay if anyone is interested.

It is off of the 4.7 V8 Magnum.

The link is:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=571093191

ibhottubn · March 2001

you are right , the dodge brochure does say those 2 items are INCLUDED with the slt & bucket seats. I will be sure they are there tuesday, when I pick up my new quad !!!!!!!!!!

thanks,

tom !!!!!!!!!!!

spike50 · March 2001

FYI - The May 2001 issue of Four Wheeler, an emap-usa magazine, has a nice article about tire treads, pressures, effect of different tires on same truck, etc. Not that its a seminal article, and not that anyone has driven their '00 / '01 QC's long enough to need new tires but this info may help in making your decision.

bpeebles · March 2001

For thoses of you that have missed the Dakota "resident technical advisor" ,I am now back from my trip to Singapore.

After 3weeks of 90-degrees... This shoveling snow and cold is hard to deal with... Perhaps its the jetlag...

I am allready scheduled to go back to Singapore in 2weeks.

Karen_S · April 2001

Welcome back, bpeebles! You've been missed.

KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs

ayrow · April 2001

OK EVERYBODY! Here it is!!!

A bunch of you have been asking me for more information on the Herculiner, Do-It-Yourself bedliner. I added it to my page so you guys can see what it is all about.

Let me know what you think.

http://www.ayrow.com/bed.html

scottieeck · April 2001

Tod,
great pictures (again). You always seem to do a hell of a job on all the mods you've done with your truck. Your description, also is entertaining, and informative. I also LOVE your plywood frame. You might want to consider applying for a patent!
scottie

ayrow · April 2001

Thanks Scott.

The plywood frame is so simple, I doubt that a patent would do me much good.

Thanks again!

Tod

ferous · April 2001

Great job
You convinced me to pay someone else to do it. If you saved $200 dollars for 15 hours of work ($13-14/hr), my wife won't let me work for less than $30/hr.

s4016 · April 2001

I Can't wait for this pair to hit the road in 2003!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm saving my money now,,,,,,,,will make my decision then!

bikenut · April 2001

I know I've seen several posts on this, but don't remember where. I have the black Clear coat, and want the decals off. I tried some WD-40, let it soak about 5 minutes, and... nothing. Still wouldn't come off. Is a heat gun the only way??
Thanks.

PS At 3500 miles the truck is great, but does seem to be developing the "popping" in the front end when turning the wheel over bumpy surfaces.

skylerk · April 2001

bikenut, see Dakota FAQ post #63
skylerk "Dodge Dakota Owners - FAQs" Dec 15, 2000 4:39pm

henne · April 2001

does anyone remember the dealer that has a web site and sells the d/c warranties for about 1k.

any help greatly appreciated

robert

goofyandpup · April 2001

Robert,

This site has been the one most prominently mentioned in these boards. I may have to visit them if/when my Quad shows up. Let us know how it works out for you. I'm kinda interested in the 4yr/75,000 plan myself. Waiting for the dealer offer to see how much I can save.

http://www.chryslerwarranty.com/

henne · April 2001

thank you

ron35 · April 2001

Robert - After doing alot of research on the subject I just took an extended warranty from an outfit called Warranty Direct www.warrantydirect.com my warranty is for a 2000 4.7 4x4 CC and covers the period 7 years or 100,000 miles. The coverage is there Diamond level (highest coverage) and there is no deductible. I paid $1275. Some of the advantages are that I can go to any repair facility (not restricted to a Dodge Dealer) and the biggest advantage I found with them is that the clock starts ticking on the warranty the day you take the policy out, I did not find another extended warranty outfit that offered this. I took my policy out when my truck was 15 months old which means I will be under warranty until the truck is 8 years 3 months old; that extra 15 months might be the period of time when things are most likely to break.

Ron35

henne · April 2001

i actually have them for my truck and my boat. i have just had a few problems with them and not sure how much i trust them. billing has been a nightmare and i have never filed a claim and i have already had problems with them. d/cs warranty is about 600 more so im thinking about it.

thanks

robert

skylerk · April 2001

Robert, I am very seriously considering an extended warranty from WarrantyDirect.com based as on the recommendations from CarBuyingTips.com. Could you please tell us more about the problems you have had with them? Also, I'm confused about how you could have billing problems if you have never filed a claim.

Thanks for whatever real-life experience you can share about this outfit!
Skyler

henne · April 2001

we used there interest free payment plan through electronic funds transfer to buy their coverage because we were listing our boat and truck with them. they double billed us a few times, then didnt bill us for months and cancelled our plans for no payment and tried to charge us a penalty fee for coming back into the program. then when they were all paid up they kept billing our account for a few months and we had to fight that. the manager was hard to get in touch with and never returned a single call and it took us about 6 or so months to get everything correct and paid with no penalties.

i have heard great things about them but dont use their payment plans!

good luck

robert

macminn · April 2001

I'd recommend Warranty Gold. Haven't had a claim yet, but reading some unbiased literature they werre recommended. Main reason, they DO cover wear and tear items (except brakes, etc.
Be carefule with extended warranties.

macminn · April 2001

This is from Warrrantgold.com's website.

Who really owns your warranty? Who really has your money?

You need to know about the "transfer of risk" associated with warranties. A transfer of risk is when the dealer pays money to an administrator that sets up "reserves." These reserves are used to pay for repairs. Why is this important?

Some dealers DO NOT pay into the reserve, they do not "transfer the risk". They are gambling with your money. Your warranty is then only as good as the financial status of the dealership. If they hit hard times, your warranty is in jeopardy.

If the dealer hasn't "transferred risk" to an administrator that maintains an excellent claims paying ability and the dealership is sold OR GOES OUT OF BUSINESS, you're out of a warranty, and you're out of the money you paid for that warranty.

Warranty Gold won't play games with your money.

Back to top

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Why should I care about Vehicle Breakdown versus Wear and Tear?

You should care because you may be covered for one (breakdown) failure and not for another (Wear and Tear) failure with your current warranty.

A breakdown failure occurs when a component or part BREAKS. A wear and tear failure occurs when a component breaks AND/OR fails to perform up to manufacturer's specifications.

For example, piston rings do not break. They wear out. This is wear and tear failure, not breakdown failure.

Another example: Suspension items normally do not break. They wear out. This is wear and tear failure, not breakdown failure.

This is a critical distinction because many manufacturer's warranties and after market warranties DO NOT COVER WEAR AND TEAR FAILURES.

Warranty Gold's Vehicle Service Contract covers breakdown AND wear and tear. It does not exclude repairs due to "wear and tear".

stnick · April 2001

Just for the record, I have seen two 3rd party warranty companies go toes up in the electronics business. Use great caution when dealing with them. After my research I bought the DC 6 yr 60,000 mile with a $50.00 deduct, from www.chryslerwarranty.com on line for 685.00. The dealer is in DesMoines, Iowa. Had a very good experience with the purchase. No claims yet as still under factory warranty, but same rules apply as it is a DC warranty. Might be worth a look see. Stnick.

ron35 · April 2001

I am not a Warranty Direct salesman however, I would like to make a some points regarding recent posts. First of all the wear and tear provisions under Warranty Direct are the same as Warranty Gold so there is no advantage there. Second Warranty Direct has been in business for more than 23 years and they are listed in Forbes as one of the 200 best smalll companies in America so I don't think you are taking much of a risk with them. The third point is in reply to stnick's post; what you are paying for in a 6 year 60,000 mile warranty is basically for an additional 24,000 miles of coverage because the factory warranty, which covers the first 36,000. At the rate you are paying this equates to $28.54 a month plus a $50 deductible. The amount I am paying $1275 for a total period covered (63 months beyond the initial 36 months covered by the factory warranty) equates to $20.23 a month with a zero deductible and the freedom of going to a Dodge dealer or any other repair facility of my choice. One of my other considerations is that there was no CC extended warranty plan that would go beyond 7years or 84 months. However, the clock on my Warranty Direct plan did not start ticking until I signed the contract, at that point my Dak was 15 months old; this means that my warranty will be in effect for a total of 99 months. The way I look at it those additional 15 months just might be the period of time when things might be more prone to requiring warranty work.

Ron35

iowabigguy · May 2001

I have a utility trailer that I'm replacing the wood and repainting. I thought that while I was doing this I might upgrade the wheels/tires. I have an extra set of 15x6 mags from my 93 Dakota that I'd like to use on the trailer. I can find only standatd 4 and 5 lug wheel hubs. I was hoping someone here might know of a source of custom wheel hubs that might provide me with a set that fits a standard trailer axle and would allow me to mount 6 lug wheels. I suppose I might find a machine shop that would weld the holes closed on a 4 or 5 lug hub and redrill it for 6 lugs. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Rick

bobs5 · May 2001

iowabigguy
Sounds like this will have to be a custom machine shop job unless there are adaptors available.
good luck

ferous · May 2001

You will find them on your truck. Just remove the rear axle off your truck and bolt it on under your trailer. Then again, how will you pull your trailer with a truck with no rear end??? Oh well.

bookitty · May 2001

Rick, Northern Tool http://northerntool.com carries a 6 bolt pattern hub listed as item #127. It is rated @ 3000#. Hope that this helps.

Bookitty

willywill · May 2001

Hello i have a 2000 dakota 2 wheel drive and was wondering what is the biggest size of tire i can have fit on on factory wheels.
Thanks
will

namfflow · May 2001

I find that 255/65-15 or 255/60-15 works out pretty good. The 60 is just a touch smaller than the stock 215/75-15 and the 65 is just a touch bigger than stock.

255 is about the maximum width I would put on the OEM rims which are 7"

I have 255/60-15 Pirelli Scorpion Zeros on my 97 and I love them. Stick like glue. A little noisey but I don't care. I like the handling.

ayrow · May 2001

I am almost embarrassed to ask this question since I have done so many things with so many cars and trucks in the past.

I tried to remove the door trim from my 2001 QC to get at the side-mirror from the inside. I started by removing all of the screws. Then I started to pull from the bottom to snap the trim loose. However, it seemed more like I was breaking it off rather than snapping it off.

My question is; does anybody know how to remove to door trim without destroying it? What was I doing wrong?

Thanks,

Ayrow

willywill · May 2001

did u get the screw behind the door handle?
its a torx head screw right behind the door latch
will

myersed · May 2001

The 255 tires which come with the tire handling package are mounted on 8" rims, not 7". Due to the extra width, the 8" rim is not recommended for the 235 tire due to the balloning of the sidewall.

Willwill, you did not mention what size rim you had

namfflow · May 2001

No, No, No, the OEM tires are NOT mounted on 8" rims. I am talking about the standard tires which are the 215/75-15 These are mounted on a 7" rim. A 255 tire is about the widest tire I would put on a 7" rim.

BTW, a 235 on an 8" rim is fine. It just doesn't give the wheel much protection but it really helps stiffen up the sidewall by keeping it straight. In fact for maximum handling using a tire on the widest recommended rim is the way to go. Ask any racer. A 235 tire is suitable for use on rims 6 to 8" in width. In contrast a 255 is approved for widths 7 to 9".

Remember the question was what is the biggest tire that will fit the stock wheel. My answer was in terms of maximum width on the OEM wheel and maintaining close to OEM diameter to minimize errors in the speedometer and the computer. Too much of a change can effect how the computer controls the engine and tranny. The OEM wheel on the Dakota unless you have the tire and handling package or the R/T is 15 X 7 steel (on base models) or alloy (on Sport and SLT)

The 255/60-15 I can recommend based on personal experience. That is what I have on the stock alloy rims, (15 X 7) on my 97 Dakota SLT. Pirelli Scorpion Zeros and they fit great and handle great. The wear pattern is perfect. No excess wear in the middle that you would get if the tire was too wide. Persoannly I like the wider tire on the narrower rim as on the street with curbs and such the sidewall of the tire will protect the rim from minor damage. I will trade the slight edge in handling for a little protection in the real world. Samr reason why I won't go to the 45 series tires.

If you don't beleive me about the tire and rim widths, go to various tire manufacturers websites and check out their data.

ron35 · May 2001

Does anyone have a chrome (SLT) front bumper ( 97-00 CC) for sale or no of a good source for a used one. I checked with the dealership the other day and they wanted $330 - OUCH!

Ron35

iowabigguy · May 2001

I may have one for sale in the near future. I am considering replacing mine with a aftermarket chrome bumper that is completely chrome, it replaces the lower part that is plastic from the factory with chromed metal too! You might want to consider this also. Look at the advertisers in "Truckin" magazine, there are several dealers who sell them. Price for bumper I think is about $325 plus shipping. If you just need the chromed upper piece and not the lower plastic valance check Ebay. I've seen several on auction over the past few months. Rick

ohc_baby · May 2001

Sorry, but I forgot to ask folks about their engine and transmission: Here's the updated version:

Well, there are all sorts of ideas on here and the DML both that relate the limiter to manual/auto, Tire&Handling/base, rear-end ratio, and other stuff. It always seems that for every rule, an exception pops up in the next post, so I'd like to figure this out. Those of you who have hit your limiter, would you please e-mail me with your:

Year
Body (RC, CC, QC)
Engine (2.5, 3.9, 4.7, 5.2, 5.9)
Transmission (Auto or Man. will do, I'll work out model numbers if it proves to be a factor) Drivetrain (4wd, 2wd, Awd)
Rear End (3.21, 3.55, 3.92)
Tire/Handling (Yes, No)
Heavy Duty Service (Yes, No)
Indicated Speed Limit

Also, I understand that Silver's a little faster, so let me know...

Thanks,
Crit in Atlanta
crit@engineer.com

ayrow · June 2001

Ok everybody. Another unique and clever modification that I thought some of you would like to see.

I installed side turn signals under the mirrors on my QC.

Let me know what you think.

http://www.ayrow.com/signal.html

Ayrow

tuvtest · August 2001

For anyone interested, In the Chicago Area, Dodge is offering a "Dodgeville" get together to test drive the new 2002 Rams. I've been to these things offered by Jeep and Chrysler and they are alot of fun. Offroading and autocrossing are usually offered (autocrossing in a Ram?...sounds interesting). This one is happening at the Aurora Airport on Sat & Sun Aug 25&26. You can call 1-877-meet-mayor(1-877-6338-62967...yes, I know, too many #'s, but it works). Typically there isn't too much sales pressure, and a whole lot of fun using(abusing?) the new cars.

mailman54 · August 2001

ayrow: Tod, I like it. It really looks trick! Bet it really stands out at night.

spike50 · September 2001

I would like to hear how others have addressed the problem. It seems that the newer vehicles, like the Dak, have this "micro-dimple" finish in the black plastic door handles and the plastic below the windshield that makes it impossible to clean out any wax that gets on it. I've tried old tooth brushes, etc. with no success. I didn't want to try petroleum solvents because of the plastic.

What have others dome to remove this unwanted wax residue?

ahasher · September 2001

for Wax Stains in those areas. I have been using a product meant for grills. Comes in a small squeeze bottle, called something like Grill Black ( I will check it's name tonight)You apply it with a brush to the grill, but I use an old terrycloth rag ( I tried a hard bristle toothbrush as well), squirt some on and massage it into the discolored areas. Then polish with a clean towel, so it blends into the surrounding area. Works quite well, and gets rid of that white wax residue, but can be a pain if it hits paint; wax or bug-tar remover will fix that right up tho.

Hope this helps...

ron35 · September 2001

spike50 - I have used a Mother's product but I am not sure of the name it might be back to black or black magic. It comes in an orange 8 oz plastic bottle and it works well.

Ron35

bookitty · September 2001

Spike, when we bought our beach house, the wall oven trim was a pebble grain finish plastic material, and had ugly white stains on it. My wife
tried various household cleaners and other products (citrus based), but to no avail. On a hunch I tried Armor All, and it did the trick. I have had to re-apply it only once in 4 years. It may be worth a try.

Bookitty

bpeebles · September 2001

Many professional auto-detailers I have conversed with as well as online detailing sites suggest applying any 'armorall' type of stuff BEFORE doing the waxing. This is supposed to keep the wax from sticking to the plastic in the first place.

Once caution... DO NOT GET IT ON THE PAINT. any silicone on the pant will really mess up your wax-job.

Dodge Dakota - General Topic

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