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Comments
Thanks......John
Ron35
Red Line Gear Oils, with the exception of the 75W90NS, already contain friction modifier required for operation in limited-slip differentials. Additional additive is not required.
Items I needed:3 qts of Redline 75W90, 1 Tube of Mopar ATV.(15 bucks at dodge but it is specially formulated for gear/axle lubes, 1 Can of brake/parts cleaner,1 funnel with thin flexable spout, old kitchen sponge(type with pot scrubber on one side), torque wrench with 1/2 inch socket and about 4 beers.
First I jacked up truck and set on jack stands(I did both the front and rear because I wanted the truck level and you will appreciate the extra head room). I didnt remove the spare but it wouldnt be a bad idea for a little extra room.
I removed all of the bolts except the top two, I just loosened those, and put a wide oil pan under the diff. Just a little prying to break the old seal and let the old fluid drain. After it stopped I removed the top two bolts completely and removed the cover.
Next I used a 2" putty knife to remove the majority of the old ATV on both the cover and diff. Next I sprayed brake cleaner on the cover and using the pot scrubbing sponge I cleaned the rest of the residue off. Repeat procedure for diff(be carefull not to let anything get into housing). Once all of the surfaces were clean I took a damp lint free cloth and wiped down the mating surfaces to remove any of the brake cleaner residue and allowed to dry.
While everything was drying I used a cloth to wipe the magnet and bottom of differential clean. Be sure to use a lint free cloth here.
Next I applyed a 1/4 inch bead of the ATV on the cover, (I did circle the holes but I dont think it was necessary) and replaced the cover on the diff. You must do this within 5 minutes of applying the ATV. Torqued all bolts to 30 ft/lbs in a criss cross pattern and let the ATV cure for about two hours before adding the new fluid.
Adding the new fluid was a bit time consuming and would have been easier without the spare tire in place but oh well. It took about 2 1/4 qts of oil.
Whole job including the 2 hour cure time was 4 hours.
Good luck, John
Bookitty
Did we ever decide, is the adapter needed for the valve??? It's more money, and I remember quite a discussion over it. Who didn't buy it?
Yesterday I heard my front brakes squealing. There is lots of pad left. Looks like it might be time for my brake problems to start...
Robert
Robert
clearance to the skid plates.You can see how much clearance is there on link below.
I had ordered the extension adapter for the extra $6 but did not use it. With valve and the empty 2 liter plastic soda bottle cut to slip over the oil filter, It's a nice clean job to change oil and filter. Ger See http://www.millervision.com/'01TRUCK.html
Robert
Ron35
Looks like it may be a bit tight up there.
John
Fumoto Oil drain valve installed and did NOT need the adapter. The Fumoto Oil drain valve is great! By the way, use the 2 liter plastic soda bottle and it works great. Leave cap on an empty 2 liter plastic soda bottle and then with say a razor cut about 3 inches off the bottom of the bottle. Use your filter wrench and loosen up the oil filter and then slip the open end of the soda bottle up through the access whole and onto/over the oil filter. Squeeze the soda bottle and turn until the filter is loose and falls into the bottle. Lower the soda container with the filter down and out of the access whole. Can tell you filter is pretty hot so I use a pair of latex gloves on my working hand to insulate from the heat.
Bill in NY
I did however have my auto tranny serviced today. $92 for a flush, refill with ATF4. the 2000 has ATF3 but ATF4 is used to refill to get some of the benefits of the improved fluid (so Im told). Dealer had me in and out in less than 2 hours.. worth the $$ since I dont feel I could service it properly at home.
Oh yeah my fernco homebrew CAI still performing great, altho I am interested in options for materials for the pipe.. but no hurry..
my .02 worth here
Have any of you heard or seen anything about the Dayton Timberline series of tires ?
Second question: If i put a 225/75/ 15 on to replace the 215's do i need to have dodge reset any software ? bpeebles or any of you techno savy crew.
otherwise no problems..
thanks
BTW - the rehab brakes are operating like new. The last time, things started to go bad around 18K.
Ron35
The 4.7L V8 uses a "bypass" cooling system. (Flow is always the same thru engine, the radiator is bypassed thru a special circuit during warmup) This special type of cooling system uses a unique low-mounted thermostat that is actually 2 thermostats in one that are tied to a common sensor.(one for the radiator and one for the bypass circuit.)
How does this relate to your flushing question?
It is almost impossable to flush the system properly with the thermostat in place using one of those T-fittings. The idea behind a T-fitting is to force a TOP MOUNTED thermostat closed with the cooler water thus forcing the flow to reverse in the system. However, with the 4.7L V8, as soon as the cooler water hits the thermostat, it will close and stop the flow from where you want it to go.
To thoroughly get all crud out of the system will take more than a simple T-fitting and a hose. Removing the thermostat may be the most vigorous way to do it.
You may find flushing the system easier by doing several drain-fills with clean water. After each one, drive moderatly to allow the thermostat to open and circulate the water.
TSB 18-001-01 is on the big sticker in the engine compartment. Hope this resolves the problem without hurting my gas mileage. On a 200 mile trip (100 mile each way and relatively flat), we booked 18.2 mpg going and 21.2 mpg coming home. 63 mph on cruise control, 4.7L, 5 sp, 3.55 rear, 31x10.5 tires @ 40 psi, tonneau covered bed, 75%/25% split in the tank on minimum/mid-grade gasoline, air cleaner, exhaust, etc. all standard - no mods.
Now I will take on your advice and be replacing teh pads with ceramic raybestos (i believe thats the brand)pads but I will only get my rotors turned myself, (to take a chance, save hard earned $$ and be able to reinstall the tirelugs CAREFULLY) at Advance Auto Parts for $12 ea. My question (to anyone)is any advice in removing the rotors? I believe it has a bolt setup I have not worked with before, as on my Ford Van. Does BOB (2000) have any advice??. yeah yeah. I ought to get one, I know.. ;-)
thanks...
1) Raise and support vehicle
2) Remove wheel and tire assembly
3) Remove brake caliper
4) Remove retainers on wheel studs
and remove rotor
Hope this helps
After checking on the, "specifics of my truck" the tech informs me that because my tranny is the 46RE is must be serviced with the ATF+3. The disagreement started when I mentioned that no, I have the 45RFE tranny as that was the ONLY AT to be mounted with the 4.7L on the 2K model year Dakota (I would assume it still is with the newer models). In the end the tech did not agree and my tranny was, in fact, flushed with the old AFT+3. Not a major problem as I intend on servicing the tranny every 20-25K miles anyway (this was my second AT service), but it sure would be nice to know that I have the superior fluid in the tranny.
Wow!
I now have over 40K on the truck and have been extremely satisfied with the 4.7L/auto tranny combo and with the truck as a whole.
I pointed him to HIS OWN shop manual for my truck and we looked it up together.... When he found that my story matched the manual, he then tried to tell me that the manual is wrong. After I asked for a WRITTEN STATEMENT from the DC about this... he conseded that I was correct.
You COULD use this same tactic about the 45RFE being the ONLY automatic tranny bolted to the 4.7L V8. You could also show him your original window sticker that will indicate that the 45RFE is installed in your truck.
HOWEVER.... My resources tell me that the 2000 45RFE may not be a candidate for the newer ATF+4 fluid. Apparently, it is not easy to flush all of the ATF+3 out of the tranny, torque converter and especially the absorbed ATF+3 in the clutch plates.
QUESTION:
HAS ANYONE SWITCHED THEIR 2000 45RFE TRANNY TO THE NEW ATF+4 FLUID?
The other item is some new Phillips halogen lamps that are supose to be 20% brighter and better in damp conditions. They have a slight yellow tint to them, not blue like the HID wannabes.
Here is the website for Halo
I have never tried them.
I can vouch for using YELLOW light for driving in fog or snowstorms. The ability to see better is significant. I cannot put my finger on specifically why it is better. It may be the depth perception or perhaps that the fog/snow does not reflect the yellow light back at you (so you can see the road better)In any case, yellow foglights RULE over white ones!
I've seen the Philips (yellow) bulbs in action and they sink as full-time headlights. There's a reason why OEM is halogen or the new HID systems, and why yellow fog / rain lights are used only in those situations.
I'd go with a hotter bulb (whiter) than OEM for the headlights. Also look for yellow replacement bulbs for your OEM under-the-bumper driving lights.
Any comments appreciated, Thanks.
Tom
THe baffle is supposed to prevent this goop from forming but alas, it does nothing except to hide it.
Unfortunately, we'll probably have to live with it due to the fact that the oil filler tube is plastic and plastic does not conduct the heat necessary to prevent formation of this goop. Add to that a constant blast of air from the fan and there you go.
Good news is, its most prevalent during cold winter driving. During the summer, you won't see it hardly at all.
My advice (and I have done this already) is to maintain a rigorous PCV change schedule to avoid driving around with a plugged PCV valve.
Well they loved the Caravan and basically had no problems....except one.
Yeah, warped rotors at 8K
Dealer fixed at NC.
I have not been inducted into this club yet due to low miles on my QC, but though it was interesting the problem seems to be on Caravans too!
Greg
Thanks. I'm getting ready to change the plugs and want the best.
Suggest you consider the Bosch+4 (#4418). They have been proven to work well in the 4.7L V8. For less than $50 USD you can purchase these.
Do not forget the antiseeze for the threads and the silicone grease for the coil O-rings.
Anybody got suggestions?
I have used Autolites in past mopars from 4 bangers to big block v-8s. THey gave me good starts, good running, and lasted longer than the Champions. I liked them so much, I ran them in mowers, chainsaws and pretty much any other internal combustion engine 2 and 4 cycle.
Gave a set of 4 (type 216) to a neighbor who had a 1952 Ford 8N tractor. Simple flathead 4 banger that did not like Motorcraft(!) and pretty much puked out on Champions. At the time, we were unable to find AC plugs.
We installed those Autolites and he never looked back. You bet he's a believer now.
Perhaps it is to reduce cost of ownership. Perhaps to maintain a more consistent stronger spark over time so as to keep the motor in emission specs.
GIven the fact that car companies search for ways to save dimes and quarters by them going to more expensive platinum plugs should tell you something.
I looked at the Autolite 5224 which is the recommended plug for the 4.7l. The threads are not plated like the Champion or the Bosch plugs otherwise construction is similar.
I think it must boil down to personal preference because I can't find any credible web sites that show a scientific comparison of spark plugs in a controlled setting.
Why do people drive Chevys instead of Dodges? Why do people use Valvoline instead of Quaker state? Personal preference and marketing, if a product was clearly superior the auto manufacturers would use it.
Rick
Super smooth idle, the champions would shake the whole truck at a light. Noticeably more snap in the throttle response. Of course, mileage was the same, just improved driveability.
Say what you want, Autolite plugs made a major improvement in my 2K 4.7.
Keith
As I stated, I use Autolites for the performance they offer as well as the longevity. I do not use them because of any fantastic claims of HP or MPG gain.
I use them, quite simply, because they work. Whether or not the threads are plated has not made any difference as to whether or not I can remove them from cast iron heads or aluminum heads. Never had one stick.
The were the only plug I could get to run properly in an old International V-8, early 60's vintage.....so I kinda stuck with them due to terrific help a regional rep gave me in finding the right plug.
Unfortunetly nobody on this board can give you real world information regarding the Denso Iridium spark plugs in the 4.7!!! Not bpeebles! Not Mopar67, Not steve234, Not even me!!
What we can tell you is what has worked for us in our specific applications. I myself am very interested in the Denso Iridium plugs, but have been unable to convince my banker that they are a good investment. I currently run autolite 5224's with no problems, but hopefully not for long.
If you are looking for the absolute best spark plug, then I say go purchase the Iridiums! The iridium plugs have proven themselves quite nicely in some very high strung racing engines. As to whether or not that equates into any benefit for our motors (4.7) has yet to be determined, but the 4.7 is a high strung motor and can be very tempramental due to this fact. My guess it that the Iridiums are probably a little better, but maybe not enough to justify the additional coinage.
I am no electrical genius, but it seems to me that a spark is not just a spark. All electrical devices experience some type of benefit when the highest quality components are used. A hot consistent spark is needed just as much as the proper fuel/air mixture, and proper timing. If a plug allows the engines electrical system the ablity to fire the plug without forcing the coil to deviate from its intended voltage, I would think that is a good thing.
I have read several articles (and of course I did not bookmark them! I'm not as organized as bruce!) that stated that the Iridium plugs have shown the greatest improvement in an engine that has hemisperical combustion chambers. Why? Not the slightest clue, but for some reason, that is what they say. Several rice burners are coming standard with iridium plugs. that can't be because of longevity simply due to the fact that they don't really last any longer than a quality platimum. So why would they do it... you can bet that it's not cost reduction!! lol
Iridium plugs do require less voltage to fire (does that mean less resistance too?) than platinum, but that shouldn't be a problem, that should be a blessing. How may hotroders out there have cranked their ignition coils to 2 billion volts to pick up a tenth in the quarter. wouldn't a spark plug that fires with less voltage accomplish the some thing????
Oh what the Heck! Go get those plugs and tell us how they work!!! lol
JMOHO!
sorry for the long post
Blue