I just bought 3qts of Redline 75W90NS for my 2000 Dakota. I've got the 9 1/2 inch rear, 3.55 and no limited slip diff. After reading the back of the bottle i'm not so sure this is the product I should be using. I know I dont require the friction additive but it says that the regular 75W90, (which does contain the additive) is recommended for conventional and lsd rears. My question is will the additive hurt my rear. I think the stuff I bought with the NS at the end is more for a manual transmission, which I guess needs a little friction for proper syncing. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks......John
jhorl - I have saved a number of posts from the Dakota Mailing List relating to Differential Fluid Changes and I have just reviewed them. It appears that the additive for limited slip which you do not need will not affect your differential at all. A number of the DML folks have corresponded with Redline which you may want to do just for piece of mind. This differential change is something I am interested in so please give us a post on any tips after you are done. The Redline homepage is http://www.redlineoil.com/whyredline.htm
Here is a quote from the RedLine website. The "NS" designator DOES NOT contain the friction modifer.
Red Line Gear Oils, with the exception of the 75W90NS, already contain friction modifier required for operation in limited-slip differentials. Additional additive is not required.
Well finally did it today after putting it off for about a year. These were my procedures for anybody who is wondering. Items I needed:3 qts of Redline 75W90, 1 Tube of Mopar ATV.(15 bucks at dodge but it is specially formulated for gear/axle lubes, 1 Can of brake/parts cleaner,1 funnel with thin flexable spout, old kitchen sponge(type with pot scrubber on one side), torque wrench with 1/2 inch socket and about 4 beers.
First I jacked up truck and set on jack stands(I did both the front and rear because I wanted the truck level and you will appreciate the extra head room). I didnt remove the spare but it wouldnt be a bad idea for a little extra room.
I removed all of the bolts except the top two, I just loosened those, and put a wide oil pan under the diff. Just a little prying to break the old seal and let the old fluid drain. After it stopped I removed the top two bolts completely and removed the cover.
Next I used a 2" putty knife to remove the majority of the old ATV on both the cover and diff. Next I sprayed brake cleaner on the cover and using the pot scrubbing sponge I cleaned the rest of the residue off. Repeat procedure for diff(be carefull not to let anything get into housing). Once all of the surfaces were clean I took a damp lint free cloth and wiped down the mating surfaces to remove any of the brake cleaner residue and allowed to dry.
While everything was drying I used a cloth to wipe the magnet and bottom of differential clean. Be sure to use a lint free cloth here.
Next I applyed a 1/4 inch bead of the ATV on the cover, (I did circle the holes but I dont think it was necessary) and replaced the cover on the diff. You must do this within 5 minutes of applying the ATV. Torqued all bolts to 30 ft/lbs in a criss cross pattern and let the ATV cure for about two hours before adding the new fluid.
Adding the new fluid was a bit time consuming and would have been easier without the spare tire in place but oh well. It took about 2 1/4 qts of oil.
Whole job including the 2 hour cure time was 4 hours.
John, one question. With a two hour cure time, and two hour work time, how did you do all this on only 4 beers. Most of us go through that just thinking about the task. Must be a new Dakota Owners record.
I ordered it with the nipple and I think you do need it. I attatched a few inches of hose to the nipple and it hangs about even with the bottom of the skid plate. I just put the pan under and turn the valve and have absolutly no worries about it.
I ordered the F106N valve, N meaning nipple and installed just fine with a few inches of
clearance to the skid plates.You can see how much clearance is there on link below.
I had ordered the extension adapter for the extra $6 but did not use it. With valve and the empty 2 liter plastic soda bottle cut to slip over the oil filter, It's a nice clean job to change oil and filter. Ger See http://www.millervision.com/'01TRUCK.html
John - I appreciated your post on the differential lube change. I have also been puting this off for a while. I am also planning on using Redline 75W-90. Do you have the LSD? My understanding, from reading the Redline homepage, is that the Redline already has the friction modifier needed for the LSD (the 75W-90 as opposed to the 75W-90NS). Also you mentioned that you did both the front and rear differentials but I don't recall you mentioning much about the front differential. Were there any special considerations for the front differential?
I have the 3.55 and no LSD. I used the 75W90 which already have the friction modifier but I dont think it will hurt my rear. Also I didnt do the front yet...Not looking forward to that one. Looks like it may be a bit tight up there. John
I have an '01 Quad Cab with the 4.7L . Have the Fumoto Oil drain valve installed and did NOT need the adapter. The Fumoto Oil drain valve is great! By the way, use the 2 liter plastic soda bottle and it works great. Leave cap on an empty 2 liter plastic soda bottle and then with say a razor cut about 3 inches off the bottom of the bottle. Use your filter wrench and loosen up the oil filter and then slip the open end of the soda bottle up through the access whole and onto/over the oil filter. Squeeze the soda bottle and turn until the filter is loose and falls into the bottle. Lower the soda container with the filter down and out of the access whole. Can tell you filter is pretty hot so I use a pair of latex gloves on my working hand to insulate from the heat. Bill in NY
2001. 8000 MILES 3.9L. SOMEONE OUT THERE MUST HAVE THE ANSWER TO THIS ST INKY PROBLEM.I HAVE SEEN THIS QUESTION AND PROBLEM ON MANY MESSAGE BOARDS BUT NO ONE HAS ANSWERED WITH A SUCCESS STORY. I HAVE HAD MINE TO 2 DEALERS AND THE ANSWER IS ALWAYS THE SAME "CHECKS OK".GRANTED THE ODOR IS NOT ALWAYS PRESENT,JUST 90% OF THE TIME.THE DIFFERENT FUEL THEORY DOSEN'T WORK!THE DEALER WONT CHANGE THE CAT BECAUSE THEY SAY IT "CHECKS OK". HELP !!!!
The smell is sulfur and it is 95% a gasoline problem. Some vehicles are more prone to it than others, but it has nothing to do with engine or catalytic reliability. One problem in many cases, is that most gas stations, particularly in smaller towns, get their gas from the same source. Conoco, Texaco and Citgo will all come from one plant, they just have their own mix of additives which is a minor factor. It also may take several tanks to get rid of the smell even with changing to another source. Try five tanks from one source and then switch to another. That is the best bet. The problem may also go away or get worse when they go to the summer formula this month.
Well I have been away but have seen the topics center on DC quality/brakes(breaks) and such but since I had idle problems and a BBQ fusebox to mentiona couple of things.. I have nothng to add on that subject.. I did however have my auto tranny serviced today. $92 for a flush, refill with ATF4. the 2000 has ATF3 but ATF4 is used to refill to get some of the benefits of the improved fluid (so Im told). Dealer had me in and out in less than 2 hours.. worth the $$ since I dont feel I could service it properly at home.
Oh yeah my fernco homebrew CAI still performing great, altho I am interested in options for materials for the pipe.. but no hurry.. my .02 worth here
It is time for the 00 quad to get new sneakers...! Have any of you heard or seen anything about the Dayton Timberline series of tires ? Second question: If i put a 225/75/ 15 on to replace the 215's do i need to have dodge reset any software ? bpeebles or any of you techno savy crew. otherwise no problems.. thanks
Had the rotors turned down as part of the truck's annual state (PA) inspection and yes I had to take off the the after-market foglights to avoid a rejection. There was a lot of pulsing but no pull to left or right at 27K. Cost $60 to have them done plus caliber lube, etc. Garage says that I'll be able to go through this process 2 or 3 more times before needing new rotors. Really wish that this wasn't a foregone conclusion when buying this truck but it seems that this is the case. If I would want to put non-Mopar rotors on the next time, again, what should I ask for and where should I go.
BTW - the rehab brakes are operating like new. The last time, things started to go bad around 18K.
I have a question on coolant change for the 4.7 engine (2k Dak). I noticed that just to the rear of the pressure cap there is allen nut and the words coolant bleed. I looked in the factory sevice manual and see no reference to this. In the past I have always bled the air out through the pressure cap. Does anyone have any experience with this? Also I have used the Prestone T flush in the past are there any special instuctions or tips for using this on the 4.7?
(ron35) That bleed is just a convienience for burping the system at its highest point.
The 4.7L V8 uses a "bypass" cooling system. (Flow is always the same thru engine, the radiator is bypassed thru a special circuit during warmup) This special type of cooling system uses a unique low-mounted thermostat that is actually 2 thermostats in one that are tied to a common sensor.(one for the radiator and one for the bypass circuit.)
How does this relate to your flushing question? It is almost impossable to flush the system properly with the thermostat in place using one of those T-fittings. The idea behind a T-fitting is to force a TOP MOUNTED thermostat closed with the cooler water thus forcing the flow to reverse in the system. However, with the 4.7L V8, as soon as the cooler water hits the thermostat, it will close and stop the flow from where you want it to go.
To thoroughly get all crud out of the system will take more than a simple T-fitting and a hose. Removing the thermostat may be the most vigorous way to do it.
You may find flushing the system easier by doing several drain-fills with clean water. After each one, drive moderatly to allow the thermostat to open and circulate the water.
With less than 10K to go on the warranty and now that I'm on a two-year break from work, I finally went to the dealer for the flash upgrade and a bum heated mirror. Took delivery in May '00 and by Mar '01 this intermittent year-round problem developed with the rpm's dropping to zero while coasting up to a turn or up to a stop sign with / without the clutch engaged. With no rpm's you had no steering and this was very exciting while attempting "an ever-decreasing radius" turn while facing on-coming traffic. Although I developed a quick reaction time (clutch in, start engine, begin steering again, not die), I was always fearful of my wife (I'm always fearful of my wife for other reasons. HA!) of being in that situation. It never happened to her but she became wary after seeing it happen to me.
TSB 18-001-01 is on the big sticker in the engine compartment. Hope this resolves the problem without hurting my gas mileage. On a 200 mile trip (100 mile each way and relatively flat), we booked 18.2 mpg going and 21.2 mpg coming home. 63 mph on cruise control, 4.7L, 5 sp, 3.55 rear, 31x10.5 tires @ 40 psi, tonneau covered bed, 75%/25% split in the tank on minimum/mid-grade gasoline, air cleaner, exhaust, etc. all standard - no mods.
ok sore subject (mopar67) since I have tried to follow the rotor topic, and understand the frustration. However my rotors now have a slight pulse on braking but mostly a squeal/chirp that would scare roadkill. My attempts at shims and goop to silence the vibration never lasts. Now I will take on your advice and be replacing teh pads with ceramic raybestos (i believe thats the brand)pads but I will only get my rotors turned myself, (to take a chance, save hard earned $$ and be able to reinstall the tirelugs CAREFULLY) at Advance Auto Parts for $12 ea. My question (to anyone)is any advice in removing the rotors? I believe it has a bolt setup I have not worked with before, as on my Ford Van. Does BOB (2000) have any advice??. yeah yeah. I ought to get one, I know.. ;-) thanks...
Just a little venting here. I spoke to my wonderful service technician at the local dealership today regarding the auto tranny (45RFE) on my 2000 4.7L 4x4 Dakota. I have recently read about the new ATF+4 fluid that Chrysler has come out with for the newer AT's. The service bulletin I read recommends the newer ATF fluid be used in 2K and newer when serviced. Being that I just had my truck in for a routine AT service about a month ago I was curious to see if the dealership in fact followed the recommendations to use the new, better ATF+4 instead of the old ATF+3.
After checking on the, "specifics of my truck" the tech informs me that because my tranny is the 46RE is must be serviced with the ATF+3. The disagreement started when I mentioned that no, I have the 45RFE tranny as that was the ONLY AT to be mounted with the 4.7L on the 2K model year Dakota (I would assume it still is with the newer models). In the end the tech did not agree and my tranny was, in fact, flushed with the old AFT+3. Not a major problem as I intend on servicing the tranny every 20-25K miles anyway (this was my second AT service), but it sure would be nice to know that I have the superior fluid in the tranny.
Wow!
I now have over 40K on the truck and have been extremely satisfied with the 4.7L/auto tranny combo and with the truck as a whole.
I have had simular disagreements with my dealer. (ie... how much oil the 4.7L holds.)
I pointed him to HIS OWN shop manual for my truck and we looked it up together.... When he found that my story matched the manual, he then tried to tell me that the manual is wrong. After I asked for a WRITTEN STATEMENT from the DC about this... he conseded that I was correct.
You COULD use this same tactic about the 45RFE being the ONLY automatic tranny bolted to the 4.7L V8. You could also show him your original window sticker that will indicate that the 45RFE is installed in your truck.
HOWEVER.... My resources tell me that the 2000 45RFE may not be a candidate for the newer ATF+4 fluid. Apparently, it is not easy to flush all of the ATF+3 out of the tranny, torque converter and especially the absorbed ATF+3 in the clutch plates.
QUESTION: HAS ANYONE SWITCHED THEIR 2000 45RFE TRANNY TO THE NEW ATF+4 FLUID?
bpeebles. I just had my 2000 45RFE flushed and serviced last Tue. I Specifically asked for the +4 and was told no problem, the +4 can go in after the +3 was flushed (i know, not COMPLETELY). This is also based on that service bulletin that says the same about topping off with +4. I was in and out in about 2 hrs minus $92.
I was wondering if anyone had heard much about a couple of new replacement parts. The first is called a halo sparkplug. It has a ring held at gap from the electrode by three supports. As I understand it, it is being put out by one of the major plug makers. The other item is some new Phillips halogen lamps that are supose to be 20% brighter and better in damp conditions. They have a slight yellow tint to them, not blue like the HID wannabes.
I can vouch for using YELLOW light for driving in fog or snowstorms. The ability to see better is significant. I cannot put my finger on specifically why it is better. It may be the depth perception or perhaps that the fog/snow does not reflect the yellow light back at you (so you can see the road better)In any case, yellow foglights RULE over white ones!
Different weather conditions really drive what wavelength (yellow-foglights, white-halogen, blue-white / HID-Audi, Mercedez, etc.) works best. Also as we age our eyes become less sensitive and we need more light to see the detail you need to drive at 60-70 mph.
I've seen the Philips (yellow) bulbs in action and they sink as full-time headlights. There's a reason why OEM is halogen or the new HID systems, and why yellow fog / rain lights are used only in those situations.
I'd go with a hotter bulb (whiter) than OEM for the headlights. Also look for yellow replacement bulbs for your OEM under-the-bumper driving lights.
Hey guys, I remember somthing about this in the past but not sure. I have a 01 QC 4.7 and changed my oil for the third time today. As I noticed some white goop in the oil filler tube I examined closer and found that if I pulled on the tab in the middle of the filler neck, the whole insert lifts out.... I never saw any notice in the manual to do this. Anyways when I did, holy crap.... there was probably 1-2 ounces of this white goop, ( I am assuming its water and oil mixed, almost like whipped). It took me about 10 minutes to clean it all out and I'll always remember to check by pulling out that insert in the future. Is this normal??, I have never done this prior and have 11k on it. I also noticed a sensor that goes into the filler tube, anyone know what this is for??. Any comments appreciated, Thanks. Tom
Normal for the 4.7 yes, acceptable design material? No. THe baffle is supposed to prevent this goop from forming but alas, it does nothing except to hide it. Unfortunately, we'll probably have to live with it due to the fact that the oil filler tube is plastic and plastic does not conduct the heat necessary to prevent formation of this goop. Add to that a constant blast of air from the fan and there you go. Good news is, its most prevalent during cold winter driving. During the summer, you won't see it hardly at all. My advice (and I have done this already) is to maintain a rigorous PCV change schedule to avoid driving around with a plugged PCV valve.
Synthetics don't make a difference in the amount of white goop in the filler neck. Changed to Mobile 1 about 3000 miles ago and the goop is just as bad if not worse. Rick
As Gtownguy has probably inferred from mopar67's reply, that "sensor" is actually the PCV valve. The service schedule in DC's BOB calls for the PCV valve to be inspected every 60K miles under normal conditions and every 30K for more severe conditions. The procedure looks pretty simple. Details upon request. I had the goop baffle installed per TSB more than a year ago and I have been goop-free ever since. Might be cooking off when I make a 800-mile trip on interstates about once per month.
I saw an episode of Motor Trend TV over the weekend where they talked about a Long Term Update on the Dodge Grand Caravan. Well they loved the Caravan and basically had no problems....except one. Yeah, warped rotors at 8K Dealer fixed at NC. I have not been inducted into this club yet due to low miles on my QC, but though it was interesting the problem seems to be on Caravans too!
Has anyone tried these? They're advertised as being better than copper, silver or platinum... They all advertise that they make plugs for the 4.7, but is it only that the plugs fit. Everything I've read here says it may ruin the engine and or mess-up the performance. One, is it true or just so we don't use another product they don't have a contract arrangement with? And two, is there any place that actually test these plugs out in various engines to see whether the performance is enhanced or degraded?
Thanks. I'm getting ready to change the plugs and want the best.
(rogruthzan) The Denso Irdium plugs are outrageously expensive. (you would spend over $150 USD for the 4.7L V8)
Suggest you consider the Bosch+4 (#4418). They have been proven to work well in the 4.7L V8. For less than $50 USD you can purchase these. Do not forget the antiseeze for the threads and the silicone grease for the coil O-rings.
Thanks bpeebles. I found a website that have the Iradium plug cost at $12 each-- $96. Considering platinums start at $8 a pair, $32, I understand the big cost difference here. I'm willing to pay more if there's a difference that's worth it. I've read lots of good things about different individual plugs from their own sites, but no comparison studies. Are all these just too new? If some are really better than others, I'd like to see the documentation.
I recommend Autolite 5224 (platinum) for the 4.7 v-8. I have used Autolites in past mopars from 4 bangers to big block v-8s. THey gave me good starts, good running, and lasted longer than the Champions. I liked them so much, I ran them in mowers, chainsaws and pretty much any other internal combustion engine 2 and 4 cycle. Gave a set of 4 (type 216) to a neighbor who had a 1952 Ford 8N tractor. Simple flathead 4 banger that did not like Motorcraft(!) and pretty much puked out on Champions. At the time, we were unable to find AC plugs. We installed those Autolites and he never looked back. You bet he's a believer now.
Would someone please enlighten me on spark plugs. My understanding is that spark plugs main purpose is to ignite the fuel/air mixture. The use of platinum and other metals are to slow down the erosion of the electrode and keep the gap at the correct setting for a longer period of time. How can you expect a performance improvement using a different plug with our modern electronic ignitions? To me a spark is a spark is a spark! If the plug misfires it sets a code in the computer and turns on the obd2 lamp so we can't say the Champions are no good because they don't fire consistently. The Champion plugs appear to have plated threads where the Autolite plugs don't. It appears to me that would be an advantage to continue using the Champions. Rick
given the fact that more and more automotive manufacturers are going over to Platinum plugs, common sense would indicate they might be on to something here. Perhaps it is to reduce cost of ownership. Perhaps to maintain a more consistent stronger spark over time so as to keep the motor in emission specs. GIven the fact that car companies search for ways to save dimes and quarters by them going to more expensive platinum plugs should tell you something.
I touched on the platinum plug in my question. The use of the platinum plug keeps the gap in specs for a longer period of time so it extends maintenance intervals. I'm questioning where the performance improvement come with different types of plugs. I seen quotes like " I just put Gorilla Fire plugs in my car and I can really feel the difference". How can a device that only provides the spark for ignition give you additional horsepower as I've seen claimed. Lets take the Bosch +4 platinum for example. We have a platinum center electrode at the tip that is bonded to an internal copper electrode (for heat transfer??). The platinum does not erode as quick as a standard plug so the gap stays in spec longer to allow the 100,000 mile change interval claims. You have 4 ground electrodes however you only will have a spark jumping from the center electrode to one of these 4 ground points, 3 of these points are redundant! I looked at the Autolite 5224 which is the recommended plug for the 4.7l. The threads are not plated like the Champion or the Bosch plugs otherwise construction is similar. I think it must boil down to personal preference because I can't find any credible web sites that show a scientific comparison of spark plugs in a controlled setting. Why do people drive Chevys instead of Dodges? Why do people use Valvoline instead of Quaker state? Personal preference and marketing, if a product was clearly superior the auto manufacturers would use it. Rick
Not to step on any toes here, but I switched to Autolite 5224's about 25K mile ago and I couldn't believe the improvement.
Super smooth idle, the champions would shake the whole truck at a light. Noticeably more snap in the throttle response. Of course, mileage was the same, just improved driveability.
Say what you want, Autolite plugs made a major improvement in my 2K 4.7.
As I stated, I use Autolites for the performance they offer as well as the longevity. I do not use them because of any fantastic claims of HP or MPG gain. I use them, quite simply, because they work. Whether or not the threads are plated has not made any difference as to whether or not I can remove them from cast iron heads or aluminum heads. Never had one stick. The were the only plug I could get to run properly in an old International V-8, early 60's vintage.....so I kinda stuck with them due to terrific help a regional rep gave me in finding the right plug.
a few years ago, someone investigated the improved mileage claims by spark plug makers and found that after the first few kmiles, all plugs gradually lost performance. So just changing to any good plugs would improve performance. The deal with platinum and copper is that platinum is a heavier metal and so will hold up longer under the sparking action. It is also not as conductive as copper and therefore requires more juice to spark. I doubt if platinum plugs would have worked well in the 50's and early 60's cars with the coils used then. This is probably why there is some reports of problems with coil on plug ignitions. As far as the multiple prongs and other new designs, I have heard theories that the when the coil discharges, the time of discharge is determined by the gap and amount of contact area. With this concept, a spark that is hot enough, could discharge faster with multiple prongs. There are pros and cons to this theory, but it is not going to change my preference.
I asked my brother about them since he owns a garage and does diagnostics. He had not even heard of them. He said he'd check them out but hadn't gotten back with specifics. He did say that the main problem would be in the timing if they spark faster per less resistance. He's had lots of trouble with the split or forked gap and preignition. Thus, if these are too good-- they're bad...(?) since it would throw the timing off and lessen the performance. But if the resistor is adjusted for my engine, that it wouldn't be a problem. So I guess that's one of the questions that could be answered. Does a manufacturer list a plug for a specific car mean the resistance is set for the timing (with the right gap) or only that the plug's size will fit the threads?
Unfortunetly nobody on this board can give you real world information regarding the Denso Iridium spark plugs in the 4.7!!! Not bpeebles! Not Mopar67, Not steve234, Not even me!!
What we can tell you is what has worked for us in our specific applications. I myself am very interested in the Denso Iridium plugs, but have been unable to convince my banker that they are a good investment. I currently run autolite 5224's with no problems, but hopefully not for long.
If you are looking for the absolute best spark plug, then I say go purchase the Iridiums! The iridium plugs have proven themselves quite nicely in some very high strung racing engines. As to whether or not that equates into any benefit for our motors (4.7) has yet to be determined, but the 4.7 is a high strung motor and can be very tempramental due to this fact. My guess it that the Iridiums are probably a little better, but maybe not enough to justify the additional coinage.
I am no electrical genius, but it seems to me that a spark is not just a spark. All electrical devices experience some type of benefit when the highest quality components are used. A hot consistent spark is needed just as much as the proper fuel/air mixture, and proper timing. If a plug allows the engines electrical system the ablity to fire the plug without forcing the coil to deviate from its intended voltage, I would think that is a good thing.
I have read several articles (and of course I did not bookmark them! I'm not as organized as bruce!) that stated that the Iridium plugs have shown the greatest improvement in an engine that has hemisperical combustion chambers. Why? Not the slightest clue, but for some reason, that is what they say. Several rice burners are coming standard with iridium plugs. that can't be because of longevity simply due to the fact that they don't really last any longer than a quality platimum. So why would they do it... you can bet that it's not cost reduction!! lol
Iridium plugs do require less voltage to fire (does that mean less resistance too?) than platinum, but that shouldn't be a problem, that should be a blessing. How may hotroders out there have cranked their ignition coils to 2 billion volts to pick up a tenth in the quarter. wouldn't a spark plug that fires with less voltage accomplish the some thing????
Oh what the Heck! Go get those plugs and tell us how they work!!! lol
For what it's worth. My wife's Lexus RX300 came fitted with Iridium-tipped plugs. It also came with a notice. "Use only iridium-tipped plugs and do not adjust gaps for your engine performance and smooth drivability". Not sure of the source of Iridium, Tokyo?
I was contemplating the relevance of the 4 tipped plugs. This is what I came up with: Electricity or a spark will take the path of least resistance. In the case of a spark plug it is the gap of the plug that determines the resistance. As plugs wear, the gap gets bigger and the resistance increases. This is where the 4 tipped plugs come in. On these plugs the spark will jump to the closest tip since this will be the least resistive path. Now as this tip wears, one of the other tips will then become closer or less resistive and the spark will jump to that tip. This cycle will continue as the plug wears each separate tip. Therefore the life of the plug will be far greater than a single tipped plug. Anyone else think this makes sense?
Comments
Thanks......John
Ron35
Red Line Gear Oils, with the exception of the 75W90NS, already contain friction modifier required for operation in limited-slip differentials. Additional additive is not required.
Items I needed:3 qts of Redline 75W90, 1 Tube of Mopar ATV.(15 bucks at dodge but it is specially formulated for gear/axle lubes, 1 Can of brake/parts cleaner,1 funnel with thin flexable spout, old kitchen sponge(type with pot scrubber on one side), torque wrench with 1/2 inch socket and about 4 beers.
First I jacked up truck and set on jack stands(I did both the front and rear because I wanted the truck level and you will appreciate the extra head room). I didnt remove the spare but it wouldnt be a bad idea for a little extra room.
I removed all of the bolts except the top two, I just loosened those, and put a wide oil pan under the diff. Just a little prying to break the old seal and let the old fluid drain. After it stopped I removed the top two bolts completely and removed the cover.
Next I used a 2" putty knife to remove the majority of the old ATV on both the cover and diff. Next I sprayed brake cleaner on the cover and using the pot scrubbing sponge I cleaned the rest of the residue off. Repeat procedure for diff(be carefull not to let anything get into housing). Once all of the surfaces were clean I took a damp lint free cloth and wiped down the mating surfaces to remove any of the brake cleaner residue and allowed to dry.
While everything was drying I used a cloth to wipe the magnet and bottom of differential clean. Be sure to use a lint free cloth here.
Next I applyed a 1/4 inch bead of the ATV on the cover, (I did circle the holes but I dont think it was necessary) and replaced the cover on the diff. You must do this within 5 minutes of applying the ATV. Torqued all bolts to 30 ft/lbs in a criss cross pattern and let the ATV cure for about two hours before adding the new fluid.
Adding the new fluid was a bit time consuming and would have been easier without the spare tire in place but oh well. It took about 2 1/4 qts of oil.
Whole job including the 2 hour cure time was 4 hours.
Good luck, John
Bookitty
Did we ever decide, is the adapter needed for the valve??? It's more money, and I remember quite a discussion over it. Who didn't buy it?
Yesterday I heard my front brakes squealing. There is lots of pad left. Looks like it might be time for my brake problems to start...
Robert
Robert
clearance to the skid plates.You can see how much clearance is there on link below.
I had ordered the extension adapter for the extra $6 but did not use it. With valve and the empty 2 liter plastic soda bottle cut to slip over the oil filter, It's a nice clean job to change oil and filter. Ger See http://www.millervision.com/'01TRUCK.html
Robert
Ron35
Looks like it may be a bit tight up there.
John
Fumoto Oil drain valve installed and did NOT need the adapter. The Fumoto Oil drain valve is great! By the way, use the 2 liter plastic soda bottle and it works great. Leave cap on an empty 2 liter plastic soda bottle and then with say a razor cut about 3 inches off the bottom of the bottle. Use your filter wrench and loosen up the oil filter and then slip the open end of the soda bottle up through the access whole and onto/over the oil filter. Squeeze the soda bottle and turn until the filter is loose and falls into the bottle. Lower the soda container with the filter down and out of the access whole. Can tell you filter is pretty hot so I use a pair of latex gloves on my working hand to insulate from the heat.
Bill in NY
I did however have my auto tranny serviced today. $92 for a flush, refill with ATF4. the 2000 has ATF3 but ATF4 is used to refill to get some of the benefits of the improved fluid (so Im told). Dealer had me in and out in less than 2 hours.. worth the $$ since I dont feel I could service it properly at home.
Oh yeah my fernco homebrew CAI still performing great, altho I am interested in options for materials for the pipe.. but no hurry..
my .02 worth here
Have any of you heard or seen anything about the Dayton Timberline series of tires ?
Second question: If i put a 225/75/ 15 on to replace the 215's do i need to have dodge reset any software ? bpeebles or any of you techno savy crew.
otherwise no problems..
thanks
BTW - the rehab brakes are operating like new. The last time, things started to go bad around 18K.
Ron35
The 4.7L V8 uses a "bypass" cooling system. (Flow is always the same thru engine, the radiator is bypassed thru a special circuit during warmup) This special type of cooling system uses a unique low-mounted thermostat that is actually 2 thermostats in one that are tied to a common sensor.(one for the radiator and one for the bypass circuit.)
How does this relate to your flushing question?
It is almost impossable to flush the system properly with the thermostat in place using one of those T-fittings. The idea behind a T-fitting is to force a TOP MOUNTED thermostat closed with the cooler water thus forcing the flow to reverse in the system. However, with the 4.7L V8, as soon as the cooler water hits the thermostat, it will close and stop the flow from where you want it to go.
To thoroughly get all crud out of the system will take more than a simple T-fitting and a hose. Removing the thermostat may be the most vigorous way to do it.
You may find flushing the system easier by doing several drain-fills with clean water. After each one, drive moderatly to allow the thermostat to open and circulate the water.
TSB 18-001-01 is on the big sticker in the engine compartment. Hope this resolves the problem without hurting my gas mileage. On a 200 mile trip (100 mile each way and relatively flat), we booked 18.2 mpg going and 21.2 mpg coming home. 63 mph on cruise control, 4.7L, 5 sp, 3.55 rear, 31x10.5 tires @ 40 psi, tonneau covered bed, 75%/25% split in the tank on minimum/mid-grade gasoline, air cleaner, exhaust, etc. all standard - no mods.
Now I will take on your advice and be replacing teh pads with ceramic raybestos (i believe thats the brand)pads but I will only get my rotors turned myself, (to take a chance, save hard earned $$ and be able to reinstall the tirelugs CAREFULLY) at Advance Auto Parts for $12 ea. My question (to anyone)is any advice in removing the rotors? I believe it has a bolt setup I have not worked with before, as on my Ford Van. Does BOB (2000) have any advice??. yeah yeah. I ought to get one, I know.. ;-)
thanks...
1) Raise and support vehicle
2) Remove wheel and tire assembly
3) Remove brake caliper
4) Remove retainers on wheel studs
and remove rotor
Hope this helps
After checking on the, "specifics of my truck" the tech informs me that because my tranny is the 46RE is must be serviced with the ATF+3. The disagreement started when I mentioned that no, I have the 45RFE tranny as that was the ONLY AT to be mounted with the 4.7L on the 2K model year Dakota (I would assume it still is with the newer models). In the end the tech did not agree and my tranny was, in fact, flushed with the old AFT+3. Not a major problem as I intend on servicing the tranny every 20-25K miles anyway (this was my second AT service), but it sure would be nice to know that I have the superior fluid in the tranny.
Wow!
I now have over 40K on the truck and have been extremely satisfied with the 4.7L/auto tranny combo and with the truck as a whole.
I pointed him to HIS OWN shop manual for my truck and we looked it up together.... When he found that my story matched the manual, he then tried to tell me that the manual is wrong. After I asked for a WRITTEN STATEMENT from the DC about this... he conseded that I was correct.
You COULD use this same tactic about the 45RFE being the ONLY automatic tranny bolted to the 4.7L V8. You could also show him your original window sticker that will indicate that the 45RFE is installed in your truck.
HOWEVER.... My resources tell me that the 2000 45RFE may not be a candidate for the newer ATF+4 fluid. Apparently, it is not easy to flush all of the ATF+3 out of the tranny, torque converter and especially the absorbed ATF+3 in the clutch plates.
QUESTION:
HAS ANYONE SWITCHED THEIR 2000 45RFE TRANNY TO THE NEW ATF+4 FLUID?
The other item is some new Phillips halogen lamps that are supose to be 20% brighter and better in damp conditions. They have a slight yellow tint to them, not blue like the HID wannabes.
Here is the website for Halo
I have never tried them.
I can vouch for using YELLOW light for driving in fog or snowstorms. The ability to see better is significant. I cannot put my finger on specifically why it is better. It may be the depth perception or perhaps that the fog/snow does not reflect the yellow light back at you (so you can see the road better)In any case, yellow foglights RULE over white ones!
I've seen the Philips (yellow) bulbs in action and they sink as full-time headlights. There's a reason why OEM is halogen or the new HID systems, and why yellow fog / rain lights are used only in those situations.
I'd go with a hotter bulb (whiter) than OEM for the headlights. Also look for yellow replacement bulbs for your OEM under-the-bumper driving lights.
Any comments appreciated, Thanks.
Tom
THe baffle is supposed to prevent this goop from forming but alas, it does nothing except to hide it.
Unfortunately, we'll probably have to live with it due to the fact that the oil filler tube is plastic and plastic does not conduct the heat necessary to prevent formation of this goop. Add to that a constant blast of air from the fan and there you go.
Good news is, its most prevalent during cold winter driving. During the summer, you won't see it hardly at all.
My advice (and I have done this already) is to maintain a rigorous PCV change schedule to avoid driving around with a plugged PCV valve.
Well they loved the Caravan and basically had no problems....except one.
Yeah, warped rotors at 8K
Dealer fixed at NC.
I have not been inducted into this club yet due to low miles on my QC, but though it was interesting the problem seems to be on Caravans too!
Greg
Thanks. I'm getting ready to change the plugs and want the best.
Suggest you consider the Bosch+4 (#4418). They have been proven to work well in the 4.7L V8. For less than $50 USD you can purchase these.
Do not forget the antiseeze for the threads and the silicone grease for the coil O-rings.
Anybody got suggestions?
I have used Autolites in past mopars from 4 bangers to big block v-8s. THey gave me good starts, good running, and lasted longer than the Champions. I liked them so much, I ran them in mowers, chainsaws and pretty much any other internal combustion engine 2 and 4 cycle.
Gave a set of 4 (type 216) to a neighbor who had a 1952 Ford 8N tractor. Simple flathead 4 banger that did not like Motorcraft(!) and pretty much puked out on Champions. At the time, we were unable to find AC plugs.
We installed those Autolites and he never looked back. You bet he's a believer now.
Perhaps it is to reduce cost of ownership. Perhaps to maintain a more consistent stronger spark over time so as to keep the motor in emission specs.
GIven the fact that car companies search for ways to save dimes and quarters by them going to more expensive platinum plugs should tell you something.
I looked at the Autolite 5224 which is the recommended plug for the 4.7l. The threads are not plated like the Champion or the Bosch plugs otherwise construction is similar.
I think it must boil down to personal preference because I can't find any credible web sites that show a scientific comparison of spark plugs in a controlled setting.
Why do people drive Chevys instead of Dodges? Why do people use Valvoline instead of Quaker state? Personal preference and marketing, if a product was clearly superior the auto manufacturers would use it.
Rick
Super smooth idle, the champions would shake the whole truck at a light. Noticeably more snap in the throttle response. Of course, mileage was the same, just improved driveability.
Say what you want, Autolite plugs made a major improvement in my 2K 4.7.
Keith
As I stated, I use Autolites for the performance they offer as well as the longevity. I do not use them because of any fantastic claims of HP or MPG gain.
I use them, quite simply, because they work. Whether or not the threads are plated has not made any difference as to whether or not I can remove them from cast iron heads or aluminum heads. Never had one stick.
The were the only plug I could get to run properly in an old International V-8, early 60's vintage.....so I kinda stuck with them due to terrific help a regional rep gave me in finding the right plug.
Unfortunetly nobody on this board can give you real world information regarding the Denso Iridium spark plugs in the 4.7!!! Not bpeebles! Not Mopar67, Not steve234, Not even me!!
What we can tell you is what has worked for us in our specific applications. I myself am very interested in the Denso Iridium plugs, but have been unable to convince my banker that they are a good investment. I currently run autolite 5224's with no problems, but hopefully not for long.
If you are looking for the absolute best spark plug, then I say go purchase the Iridiums! The iridium plugs have proven themselves quite nicely in some very high strung racing engines. As to whether or not that equates into any benefit for our motors (4.7) has yet to be determined, but the 4.7 is a high strung motor and can be very tempramental due to this fact. My guess it that the Iridiums are probably a little better, but maybe not enough to justify the additional coinage.
I am no electrical genius, but it seems to me that a spark is not just a spark. All electrical devices experience some type of benefit when the highest quality components are used. A hot consistent spark is needed just as much as the proper fuel/air mixture, and proper timing. If a plug allows the engines electrical system the ablity to fire the plug without forcing the coil to deviate from its intended voltage, I would think that is a good thing.
I have read several articles (and of course I did not bookmark them! I'm not as organized as bruce!) that stated that the Iridium plugs have shown the greatest improvement in an engine that has hemisperical combustion chambers. Why? Not the slightest clue, but for some reason, that is what they say. Several rice burners are coming standard with iridium plugs. that can't be because of longevity simply due to the fact that they don't really last any longer than a quality platimum. So why would they do it... you can bet that it's not cost reduction!! lol
Iridium plugs do require less voltage to fire (does that mean less resistance too?) than platinum, but that shouldn't be a problem, that should be a blessing. How may hotroders out there have cranked their ignition coils to 2 billion volts to pick up a tenth in the quarter. wouldn't a spark plug that fires with less voltage accomplish the some thing????
Oh what the Heck! Go get those plugs and tell us how they work!!! lol
JMOHO!
sorry for the long post
Blue