I read that approx 29,000 vehicles are affected with this situation and that it goes back as far as 2000 and for only certain Dakotas and Durangos. I previously mentioned this in #609 on the General Topics thread but, no one had encountered this. At least until now...
Anybody else receiving a Recall notice for this? Best Regards, dataguru
While I was under my 02 QC this weekend changing the oil, I noticed that the end of the transfer case and associated seal were all oily. Not enough to drip, but just a thin film of oil. I just had the rear pinion seal replaced two weeks ago. I'll just have to keep an eye on it I guess.
I think that the limited application of this recall corresponds to wiper motors manufactured between certain dates. The vendor knows the affected population of motors by date. I don't know if they made a slight manufacturing change or if it was a material or design change.
Anyway, the Dodge assembly plant knows the approximate trucks affected by matching the wiper motor change to the range of trucks built with the affected units.
I'm not yet sure what the remedy is, whether they change the motor out or what.
A guy I work with has a '00 that just started leaking at 69K. Others I know have not reported any leakage at the output end of the transfer case -- yet.
Does anyone know what would be causing a low pitch squeal sound coming from the underbody or even the wheels of a 98 Dakota 4x4. Also the steering wheel is loose, and did not know if this has anything to do with the sound.
I have a 1997 extended cab 4x4 with 5.2 engine. It has developed a 'weep' leak apparently at the seam between the transfer case and the transmission. This started about April. After about a month I had a service station which I have confidence in check the fluid levels and they found the levels good and suggested I drive with it due to the minor leakage. I collected the leakage in a pan for a couple months and found about 3-5 fluid oz per month in the pan. (the truck isn't driven much during the summer and only had about 20 miles during this time, sat in the driveway 99% of time) I plan to have the fluid levels checked again before driving out of town, then make a decision on drivability. Does anyone have any experience in this type of leak? Can a condition like this be driven with only periodic fluid checks? I don't have a lot of confidence in the local dealer's integrity and would appreciate any background, suggestions, or cautions folks on this board might have.
Five fluid ounces per month doesn't sound like a lot, but I would say it's above what I would call "normal."
I've seen some leaks from the transfer cases on Dakotas (it's a New Process...er... New Venture Gear unit also used by GM) and I think many of them start to weep a bit with age. But your's may be a little more severe.
A question, though: Does it appear to leak only when parked for periods of time? Is the vehicle parked on an incline? It's possible that you are realizing fluid loss because the vehicle is not on a level surface. You shouldn't get leaking out of any transfer case seal if on a level surface since the fluid level is below the lowest point of any seal when stationary.
I just checked my service manual and they don't talk about a front or input shaft seal. I can't believe there isn't one. There's one for the front and rear output shafts.
If you appear to lose less fluid during periods of operation, I would suspect that you have a seal that's dried out.
Dusty, Thanks for your thoughts. It does seem to leak more in the driveway which is on an incline. On the occasional period it's on the level in the garage it doesn't seem to leak. A couple times I thought it had stopped leaking. It would begin again when it goes back to the driveway. Now I know why. Pat
The stated lubricant quantity in the transfer case is insufficient to come to the bottom of the seals of the shafts when level. So a leak at any of the seals indicates an overfilled transfer case or being parked on an incline.
I have an '00 quad cab 4.7 with the 5 speed transmission that consistently pops out of first gear during stop and go driving conditions. It has done this since new and I initially suspected a clutch problem but dismissed that since it never happens when shifting into reverse. It rarely happens if I downshift and keep the clutch in but if I'm waiting at a light and then place the shifter from neutral into first gear, more often than not it pops out of gear after a few feet. It is as if it doesn't fully engage the gear even though I'm careful to "bury" the shifting lever as far as it will go. I've tried start ups in second gear and never had this problem. From new the dealer was unable to re-create the problem. Has anyone else experienced this?
Assuming the lubricant is the correct type and the transmission is filled correctly, you could have a problem with the gear shift lever itself or the shift tower cover. It's possible that the Shift Shaft, the Shaft Lever, or the 1-2 Shift Fork are defective. Since you had this problem from day one, it was likely defective from the start. You could have a cracked or damaged 1st syncro-ring.
I'd put some more pressure on your dealer. This is a problem that requires the transmission to come out and be inspected. In general these are pretty hardy units. Shift lever pins breaking and front input shaft bearing noise is the most common complaint on high mileage units, but if the lubricant is the correct type and never gets too low, even that would be relatively rare.
I wanted to change my rear end fluid, probably to a synthetic,(mob1). How much does it hold?. Is mobil1 gear oil a good choice? Also I wanted to change my powersteer fluid. Is this any special type? Do I need the dealer product? What is a good kind and how much needed? I have a 01 QC 4x4 auto, 39k miles.
Depending on the rear axle you have, the 8.25 holds 4.7 pints, the 9.25 4.9 pints. That does not include four (4) ounces of friction modifier if it's limited slip.
Mobil 1 gear oil probably is fine, but I would recommend using the Mopar synthetic 80-140W gear lubricant.
Power steering fluid is dependent on the year. Newer Dakotas use ATF+4 automatic transmission fluid. There's some ambiguity on when Dodge switched from Mopar Power Steering Fluid to ATF+4 and I can never keep it straight. I would consult your owner's manual on this one.
Well my '03 Dakota Club Cab popped a malfunction code on me last week, so I took it in for its first service at 23 months.
The PCM registered a P0456, the infamous Evaporative Leak Detected code. The dealer's tech put the DRB on it and instead came up with a P0301, misfire in #1 cylinder. This surprized me since this 4.7 runs almost as smooth as a watch and my fuel mileage has been averaging 17.7 for the last 15 tanks of gas. The service manager at first said it was probably a bad fuel cap since he said the vast majority of P0456 codes are caused by it. But they're indicating that nothing was wrong in the emissions area. Time will tell. They said they found a bad connection at coil number one causing the P0301 code.
The front end groan that I thought would be sway bar bushings turned out to be dry ball joints! They greased them and so far the groan is gone, but I find this a little disconcerting. Dry means friction, in my mind any ways. I wonder how much life I took off of those ball joints driving it around for five months that way. The sway bar bushings are fine, by the way. The tech said that the newer Dakotas have a different bushing and now seldom make noise.
The window on the drivers side began chattering on the upstroke a couple of months ago and seemed to be getting slower, too. Apparently some lubricant fixed that. It now works fine.
Had the D22 recall for the wiper motor.
Since I was at 30,000 miles and seriously lacking the time, I let the dealer drain the 545RFE transmission and replace both filters. Had a coupon that Chrysler sent me that saved me $40.
The dealer's service department addressed all my concerns and my Dakota is just like new, except for the Coca Cola Icy I spilled on the carpet the other night. The truck felt different to me when I picked it up today, but I can't tell what I'm feeling. Maybe the engine is smoother, or the transmission is shifting different, or something else. But there is a difference.
For that Coca Cola Icy, try Tuff Stuff (sp?). I found it at Wal-Mart in the Auto section, and it worked great on the soda stains in our van (right before I traded it on the Dakota).
Wow, it's been a while since I've posted but I do keep track of ya'll. I've recently moved to Florida form Buffalo. I have a '01 quad 4.7 4wd. The AC works here but it takes a while to get cool air out with our heat and humidity. I seem to recall a post from someone (bpeebles?) on insulating the freon return lines to help with the efficiency in hot weather. If anyone remembers the post number or has tried it, please let me know. I'm thinking that the heat in the engine compartment does a number on the refrigerant until it gets circulating a while. Thanks for all your help as usual. I've got to say, I've got 60K on this truck and I still love it. I'll post later on shock, tire, brake upgrades that I've done. Kevin
Yeah, I asked that question. The service manager said they used a special tool that resembles a syringe. I assume it has a larger needle port to shoot in the fairly thick grease.
Someone here said that such a tool is available from AutoZone, etc.
Thanks. I tried to mop it up with a dry towel. In the form of ice it was a rather messy soda-type substance to get up. I got the most of it but the carpet is sticky in a few spots.
I can attest that my A/C blows colder air than before I did this.
One caution: A buddy that is trained in HVAC told me that adding too much insulation to the low-pressure lines may cause the compressor to suck liquid freon.
So, if the compressor sucks liquid freon, would that damage the compressor because it is trying to compress a liquid? Did you put the foil insulation on the tubes first, then cover with the foam pipe insulation? Thanks Bpeebles.
I have a 2003 Dakota Sport Plus club cab,looking for a power seat track for the drivers side. The truck now has a manual seat in it, anybody have any sugestions as to where I can get one? Will a power seat track from a Durango work?
stick-on foil insulation is only on the reciever/drier. The rest of the insulation is NOT foam. (it just looks like foam)
What I did was READ the specs on the various pipe insulations at HomeDepot and selected one that can withstand the high underhood temps. (Foam may melt or burn)
I have a '03 Quad Cab and have been running the air conditioner when it was hot. A couple of days later I noticed a fowl smell inside the cab. After checking and rechecking for a present my wifes dog might have left. I took the floormats out. The front passanger mat was wet. I was wondering if anyone knows why I would be getting what appears to be water under the passanger floor mat? Is this a problem I can fix myself, or do I have to bring it into the dealer? Thanks for your time.
Thanks to all who responded. My 01 qc reqiures power steering fluid and specifically said no to use trany fluid. I bought some at the dealer today for 6.50 qt.. The synthetic 80w-140 rear end fluid was 25.50 qt.. Needless to say, I passed and bought the Mob1 75w-90 synth gear oil (6.40 qt.). I do not have a posi rear end and do not need the additive. However, I do have a question regarding ball joints and "perma-seal" connections. I have always greased grease fittings and obviously on the new stuff like a QC, they are all non-greasable. I once knew a person that owned a "jiffy-lube" and she told me they would spray them with a special spray. (this was 20 yrs ago) Since then I always spray them with silicone, I guess that's what they used, probably to keep the rubber pliable. I recently puchased a set of needles that have a grease fitting on them. They are to inject grease into things I assume. Now, I have heard guys on this board say they inject grease into those fittings, but my dealer knows nothing about such practices. I have also not heard of this anywhere else. Does anyone know if this is an acceptable method????
I just had my '03 Dakota ball joints greased and I was told they used a "syringe-type tool."
As soon as mine reaches 36,000 miles and the suspension components are no longer covered under the factory warranty, I'm going to drill the caps on each ball joint and install a Zerks fitting so that I can grease them conventionally. My son's '93 Dakota with 270,000 miles was greased regularly and is still sporting the factory original ball joints!
It's been a while since I been hear. I have read many past issurs. All the problems are still the same. What amazes me the most is people are still buying these trucks after reading all the problems. Yep, nice looking, plenty of room and power but the quiality sucks. I have 62K miles. Took it to shop at 59K for the 5th brake and rotor replacement. Many Many other problems. It took almost a year, during the first year I got this truck to get anyone to fix anything on it and now that they do fix it, it only last a little while. I've read about clucking noise from the rearend etc. LOL, people talking about, is your gas tank halh full, you will hear it lush back and forth when you put the brakes on. that's so funny. Makes me think some hear has never had a truck or car before the Dak. Well let me tell you about my rearend noise. It sometimes sounded like it was the drive shaft, sterring wheel would wine a little at times when turning, clucking when going from D to R, P are any gear, and when stoping I started hearing clunk in rear then frontend on different side at times. I brought this to their atten; so many times and even reproduce the stuff for the shop after a long ride. They got mad because I got to where, once they got in the truck with me I wouldn't let them out until my problem happen with them in the truck. Always went to shop with a full tank. I not going on and on but my rearend problem started at 5K, got much worse at 15K and I could hardly keep the thing on a wet road when stoping fast due to brakes and rearend. Well at 59K, new brakes, rotors, they said my rearend 3rd member was all broke up. Because of all the brake problems and drivetrain noises, I only used this 25K truck to pull a boat just maybe 5 or 6 times. Never been off road, never spun the tires, my wife drives it most of the time and shes disabled, babys the thing. Rearend was junk and I been driving it like that for 2 or more years like that because dodge would fix it. AAAAAA never mind. I'm not here to put you guys down but I am here to let you and new buyers know that dodge is the worst I have ever delt with. Now I do own a 94 half ton dodge truck with 160K miles. All I ever done to it was a water pump and radior @ 100K and just now put my 3 front pads on and never a rotor problem, and only one se of back shoes. Once someone on this site said your 94 truck has been a good one how can you burn on dodge D/Q/C and talk so bad about dodge. Man they got to be kidding. Got one good one so big deal if they make bad ones now. I bought one at a time. Anyway the good one out does the bad one in every way so the 2001 stays parked most of the time. They may have made a good 94 but these new ones are at lease the Dak. Q/C is nothing but a problem that dodge won't fix, back up are are anything. I hate it. Can't afford to trade it it. I tried and the killer part is Dodge want even give me more than 6K on this 2001 and I paid 25K 3 years ago. Not one scratch, towels on the seat so they still look new, tono cover etc. on this truck. You guys pay this much and have to buy after market stuff to fix it. LOL. Why?. Since I have had so many problems, many many many letters, reports, phone calls, trip to the shop, loss of much time etc. etc. etc., I now tell all my story and hope they don't buy what I bought and get burned. I even pull into Dodge parking lot and tell people looking at trucks and I show them my paper work if they want to see it. Dodge would have been better off to take mine back like I wanted them to at 5K miles or fix the darn thing right. O' on the rear end, the guy at the shop said I could have had an axle come out and don't even see how it was still driving like that with the shape the rearend was. Also on wet roads it would just spin around when hitting brakes kind of hard. Nope, I am done with dodge and I will let all know. Its hard for a man like me to lose 25K and still not be able to use it like a truck. Man I am so mad at them folks. Well I don't have time to spell check are re read this and I don't have the time to debate on this so I may check back in a few days, weeks, months etc. I also want ever believe a Edmunds review cause I did the research before switching to dodge and all the problems didn't come up on this board until after I bought my 2001. All I really talked about today is the rearend and brakes but there is much more. Ya'll have a good night and LOL keep driving those wore out Dakotas form day one. I still can't believe people are still buying them. Funny stuff.
It's too bad that you're unsatisfied with your '01 Dakota. Unfortunately in your zeal to denigrate the product and the company you have managed to insult my intelligence as well as those of us who have had excellent service from our Dakotas. I see why your call yourself "rudedog."
I know many people that own Dakotas of various years as well as other competitive trucks, and from a reliability standpoint the Dakota appears to be holding it's own, despite the myth that Toyota and Nissan are automatically better. Are Dakotas perfect. Nope. But a short perusal through the S10, Ford Ranger, Toyota Tacoma, and Nissan Frontier boards indicates all is not well over there, either.
Now I'm sure you will refuse to believe that most people I know with Dakotas are more than satisfied, but I don't care, unless you want to call me a liar. At this point your note is so notably sour that I doubt you'll ever change your opinion, regardless of facts otherwise, and since your admitted hatred is so obviously compulsive I'm sure Dodge felt they had nothing to lose with you.
Fortunately for you there are a host of competitive product out there. Try one. Please.
I documented my problems here, quite frequently with my Dak. And as Popeye used to say, "that's all I can stands, I can't stands no more". (No I didn't whip out a can of spinach!:))
Thus, I did the most basic thing, I traded it and got a vehicle that so far has held up better than the Dak.
Yes, I agree that all Daks and Chrysler products are NOT junk. MAtter of fact, until the Dakota, I had nothing but good service from Chrysler products. And let me tell you, I pounded those vehicles, hard! Yet they never broke or left me stranded.
I see where this guy is coming from. He vented (and I have too but that was a loooooong time ago). What he needs to do is decide whether or not he wants to get his rig fixed or get rid of it and try another vehicle.
It is a crapshoot these days. I've talked with people who rave about their Hyundais and at the same time, converse with people who have had nothing but problems. So in the end, who is right?
That being said, I may consider a Dodge again when I pay off my zuke. Time will tell on that. ONe thing though, should I decide to try again with Dodge, I will research my [non-permissible content removed] off with respect to the brakes! LOL. If they are still junk, then at least I know aftermarket will be an option.....as others here have posted.:)
Well, I can understand anyone being upset with getting something less than satisfactory, especially when the product is as expensive as a motor vehicle. And I'm not naive enough to believe everyone's Dakota has been as good as mine.
But he crossed the line, in my opinion, when he tried to cast Dakota owners as something less than intelligent for buying one. It is curiously oxymoronic that he bought the same make and model as I did, yet he implies that he was fooled but the rest of us are stupid. It reeks a little of saturated self-indulgent pity. His "story" in reality is a diatribe and as such did not elicit any sympathy from me. He was in effect castigating Dakota owners for owning one. I know the type. He wants everyone to hate Dakotas and Dodge because he does and anyone with something good to say about one becomes a target for ridicule.
Needless to say my first visit for warranty service occurred last week after 23 very pleasant months in my Dak. The problems were minor and the dealer's service was outstanding. At this point in terms of both mileage and time this Dakota has been the best vehicle I've ever owned, bar none. My '93 Nissan was good, but not this good. Our '99 Toyota is as bad as the last Chevy we ever owned, which is pretty bad! Of all the people I know I can only name one that's had less vehicle service time than me and that's on a Kia.
As to the brakes, if I can keep the scuz off of mine they're smooth. My around town driving doesn't help that, unfortunately. But even this isn't a significant problem. I'm at 31K with the factory rotors -- so far. The pads are wearing very well with about 70% pad life left. I'm actually quite happy with this vehicle.
Sir, my intentions was not to insult anyone on this board. Guess that's why they call it proof reading. I was venting a little. Please except my apologies for any miss understanding.
An apology is not required. I have empathy for a person who has a problem with a vehicle that isn't or can't be resolved. The vast majority of Dakota owners I've talked to personally are more than pleased with them. I can honestly say more pleased on average than those driving S10s or Frontiers and Tacomas.
It's unfortunate that you've had problems and even more so that either the dealer didn't back you up or the factory didn't take care of you. No one would blame you for walking away from Dodge if they couldn't get it right. But at the same time there are those that haven't experienced these problems, have had good dealer service and are justifiably pleased with the Dakota.
I will also tell you that I did my share of research before I bought this '03 Dakota. Even though most people I talked to that owned one for a while had very few problems, I was initially suspect of Dodge truck reliability. I am now convinced that the Dakota is probably one of the better trucks on the market. Yes, they had some issues in previous years but I also see that they've been addressed.
When I compare price, value, features, and performance, there is really nothing that equals the Dakota in it's market segment.
I hope your next purchase, what ever it is, is a much better experience for you.
As noted a while back my '03 Dakota gave a Malfunction Lamp indication and a P0456 code. This is a "Evaporative Small Leak Detected." The dealer checked it out but found no such code in the PCM, instead a P0301, "cylinder 1 misfire."
The Malfunction Lamp came on again a few days later. I drove to the dealer and the tech immediately checked it out with the DRB2. He said that a small leak was usually a cracked evaporative return line, either under the hood by the pump or at the fuel tank. But the lines on mine looked good. A "large leak" code is usually thrown when you fill up with gas with the engine idling, or start the vehicle with the gas cap loose or off.
In this case he felt that the gas cap might be the culprit, in part because this was intermittent and also because he didn't like the way the cap tightened. He installed a new one and so far the problem hasn't returned.
One note: the new gas cap is different than the original version. The new one is shaped somewhat differently and medium gray in color. The tech also said that the gas caps are usually the culprit for this type of problem (large leak detected). He said this was the first time he saw one that caused a "small leak" code, however.
He also said that on the '04 Dakota they went to steel lines in the evaporative return system because of this problem.
A friend I used to work with has a sidekick and he's had problems with it. We were shooting the bull one night and I signed onto edmunds as me at his PC. I guess he found the link in his history and saw a forum and decided to post anyway!
i didn't exsperience any rough engine idle etc. after resetting computer. anyway that is the least of my problems as 3 hurricanes &25 tornado's later &3 more hurricanes looming,i am waiting now 5wks to get my beloved dak back from $10,000 damage caused by charlie. it picked the truck up and dropped it on its side, blew out 2 tires &all glass.after the storm we dropped right side up checked fluids &it started right up &we drove 20 miles to dodge dealer for repairs.there was not a panel that didn't have damage.anyway i hope it comes back like new or i shall be trading for a new one. it will be interesting to see if the check engine lite comes on. regards cookie parkes
My 2001 Quad with lim-slip started squeaking while making turns. 50K miles. Changed rear lube with Amsoil 75/w90 + 4oz. slip additive. Squeak is gone. Gonna need a new set of tires soon.
Well after 28,500 kilometres (or 17,600 miles), the MIL light lit up on the instrumentation panel with a P0121 DTC problem code. Does anyone know what this one is? Does anyone know where I can get a list of DTC codes and corresponding descriptions? Are they available in the factory service manual (FSM) if I were to buy one?
Can I resolve this problem myself with limited tools or do I need to take it into a dealership? Mine is a 2003 Quad 4.7 5-45RFE LSD 3.92?
Comments
I read that approx 29,000 vehicles are affected with this situation and that it goes back as far as 2000 and for only certain Dakotas and Durangos. I previously mentioned this in #609 on the General Topics thread but, no one had encountered this. At least until now...
Anybody else receiving a Recall notice for this?
Best Regards,
dataguru
Yes, I remember seeing your note.
I think that the limited application of this recall corresponds to wiper motors manufactured between certain dates. The vendor knows the affected population of motors by date. I don't know if they made a slight manufacturing change or if it was a material or design change.
Anyway, the Dodge assembly plant knows the approximate trucks affected by matching the wiper motor change to the range of trucks built with the affected units.
I'm not yet sure what the remedy is, whether they change the motor out or what.
Best regards,
Dusty
How many miles?
Regards,
Dusty
My Dakota just turned 48K miles.
A guy I work with has a '00 that just started leaking at 69K. Others I know have not reported any leakage at the output end of the transfer case -- yet.
Dusty
Thanks
I've seen some leaks from the transfer cases on Dakotas (it's a New Process...er... New Venture Gear unit also used by GM) and I think many of them start to weep a bit with age. But your's may be a little more severe.
A question, though: Does it appear to leak only when parked for periods of time? Is the vehicle parked on an incline? It's possible that you are realizing fluid loss because the vehicle is not on a level surface. You shouldn't get leaking out of any transfer case seal if on a level surface since the fluid level is below the lowest point of any seal when stationary.
I just checked my service manual and they don't talk about a front or input shaft seal. I can't believe there isn't one. There's one for the front and rear output shafts.
If you appear to lose less fluid during periods of operation, I would suspect that you have a seal that's dried out.
Best regards,
Dusty
Pat
The stated lubricant quantity in the transfer case is insufficient to come to the bottom of the seals of the shafts when level. So a leak at any of the seals indicates an overfilled transfer case or being parked on an incline.
Regards,
Dusty
You have the NV3500 transmission.
Assuming the lubricant is the correct type and the transmission is filled correctly, you could have a problem with the gear shift lever itself or the shift tower cover. It's possible that the Shift Shaft, the Shaft Lever, or the 1-2 Shift Fork are defective. Since you had this problem from day one, it was likely defective from the start. You could have a cracked or damaged 1st syncro-ring.
I'd put some more pressure on your dealer. This is a problem that requires the transmission to come out and be inspected. In general these are pretty hardy units. Shift lever pins breaking and front input shaft bearing noise is the most common complaint on high mileage units, but if the lubricant is the correct type and never gets too low, even that would be relatively rare.
Best regards,
Dusty
I wanted to change my rear end fluid, probably to a synthetic,(mob1). How much does it hold?. Is mobil1 gear oil a good choice?
Also I wanted to change my powersteer fluid. Is this any special type? Do I need the dealer product? What is a good kind and how much needed?
I have a 01 QC 4x4 auto, 39k miles.
Thanks
Tom.
Depending on the rear axle you have, the 8.25 holds 4.7 pints, the 9.25 4.9 pints. That does not include four (4) ounces of friction modifier if it's limited slip.
Mobil 1 gear oil probably is fine, but I would recommend using the Mopar synthetic 80-140W gear lubricant.
Power steering fluid is dependent on the year. Newer Dakotas use ATF+4 automatic transmission fluid. There's some ambiguity on when Dodge switched from Mopar Power Steering Fluid to ATF+4 and I can never keep it straight. I would consult your owner's manual on this one.
Best regards,
Dusty
The PCM registered a P0456, the infamous Evaporative Leak Detected code. The dealer's tech put the DRB on it and instead came up with a P0301, misfire in #1 cylinder. This surprized me since this 4.7 runs almost as smooth as a watch and my fuel mileage has been averaging 17.7 for the last 15 tanks of gas. The service manager at first said it was probably a bad fuel cap since he said the vast majority of P0456 codes are caused by it. But they're indicating that nothing was wrong in the emissions area. Time will tell. They said they found a bad connection at coil number one causing the P0301 code.
The front end groan that I thought would be sway bar bushings turned out to be dry ball joints! They greased them and so far the groan is gone, but I find this a little disconcerting. Dry means friction, in my mind any ways. I wonder how much life I took off of those ball joints driving it around for five months that way. The sway bar bushings are fine, by the way. The tech said that the newer Dakotas have a different bushing and now seldom make noise.
The window on the drivers side began chattering on the upstroke a couple of months ago and seemed to be getting slower, too. Apparently some lubricant fixed that. It now works fine.
Had the D22 recall for the wiper motor.
Since I was at 30,000 miles and seriously lacking the time, I let the dealer drain the 545RFE transmission and replace both filters. Had a coupon that Chrysler sent me that saved me $40.
The dealer's service department addressed all my concerns and my Dakota is just like new, except for the Coca Cola Icy I spilled on the carpet the other night. The truck felt different to me when I picked it up today, but I can't tell what I'm feeling. Maybe the engine is smoother, or the transmission is shifting different, or something else. But there is a difference.
Bests,
Dusty
How did they grease the ball joints? I have an 02 with no grease fittings
For that Coca Cola Icy, try Tuff Stuff (sp?). I found it at Wal-Mart in the Auto section, and it worked great on the soda stains in our van (right before I traded it on the Dakota).
Yeah, I asked that question. The service manager said they used a special tool that resembles a syringe. I assume it has a larger needle port to shoot in the fairly thick grease.
Someone here said that such a tool is available from AutoZone, etc.
Bests,
Dusty
Thanks. I tried to mop it up with a dry towel. In the form of ice it was a rather messy soda-type substance to get up. I got the most of it but the carpet is sticky in a few spots.
Appreciate the recommendation.
Bests,
Dusty
Well, I bet you won't be missing those wonderful Buffalo winters and salt covered roads.
Bests,
Dusty
Here is the link to the photo. (again)
http://hometown.aol.com/peebs4u2/dak1.jpg
I can attest that my A/C blows colder air than before I did this.
One caution: A buddy that is trained in HVAC told me that adding too much insulation to the low-pressure lines may cause the compressor to suck liquid freon.
Kevin
Check ebay.
Let us know how it works out.
Bob
What I did was READ the specs on the various pipe insulations at HomeDepot and selected one that can withstand the high underhood temps. (Foam may melt or burn)
Kevin
However, I do have a question regarding ball joints and "perma-seal" connections. I have always greased grease fittings and obviously on the new stuff like a QC, they are all non-greasable. I once knew a person that owned a "jiffy-lube" and she told me they would spray them with a special spray. (this was 20 yrs ago)
Since then I always spray them with silicone, I guess that's what they used, probably to keep the rubber pliable. I recently puchased a set of needles that have a grease fitting on them. They are to inject grease into things I assume. Now, I have heard guys on this board say they inject grease into those fittings, but my dealer knows nothing about such practices. I have also not heard of this anywhere else. Does anyone know if this is an acceptable method????
Thanks,
Tom.
As soon as mine reaches 36,000 miles and the suspension components are no longer covered under the factory warranty, I'm going to drill the caps on each ball joint and install a Zerks fitting so that I can grease them conventionally. My son's '93 Dakota with 270,000 miles was greased regularly and is still sporting the factory original ball joints!
Best regards,
Dusty
I'm not here to put you guys down but I am here to let you and new buyers know that dodge is the worst I have ever delt with. Now I do own a 94 half ton dodge truck with 160K miles. All I ever done to it was a water pump and radior @ 100K and just now put my 3 front pads on and never a rotor problem, and only one se of back shoes. Once someone on this site said your 94 truck has been a good one how can you burn on dodge D/Q/C and talk so bad about dodge. Man they got to be kidding. Got one good one so big deal if they make bad ones now. I bought one at a time. Anyway the good one out does the bad one in every way so the 2001 stays parked most of the time. They may have made a good 94 but these new ones are at lease the Dak. Q/C is nothing but a problem that dodge won't fix, back up are are anything. I hate it. Can't afford to trade it it. I tried and the killer part is Dodge want even give me more than 6K on this 2001 and I paid 25K 3 years ago. Not one scratch, towels on the seat so they still look new, tono cover etc. on this truck. You guys pay this much and have to buy after market stuff to fix it. LOL. Why?. Since I have had so many problems, many many many letters, reports, phone calls, trip to the shop, loss of much time etc. etc. etc., I now tell all my story and hope they don't buy what I bought and get burned. I even pull into Dodge parking lot and tell people looking at trucks and I show them my paper work if they want to see it. Dodge would have been better off to take mine back like I wanted them to at 5K miles or fix the darn thing right. O' on the rear end, the guy at the shop said I could have had an axle come out and don't even see how it was still driving like that with the shape the rearend was. Also on wet roads it would just spin around when hitting brakes kind of hard. Nope, I am done with dodge and I will let all know. Its hard for a man like me to lose 25K and still not be able to use it like a truck. Man I am so mad at them folks. Well I don't have time to spell check are re read this and I don't have the time to debate on this so I may check back in a few days, weeks, months etc.
I also want ever believe a Edmunds review cause I did the research before switching to dodge and all the problems didn't come up on this board until after I bought my 2001. All I really talked about today is the rearend and brakes but there is much more. Ya'll have a good night and LOL keep driving those wore out Dakotas form day one. I still can't believe people are still buying them. Funny stuff.
I know many people that own Dakotas of various years as well as other competitive trucks, and from a reliability standpoint the Dakota appears to be holding it's own, despite the myth that Toyota and Nissan are automatically better. Are Dakotas perfect. Nope. But a short perusal through the S10, Ford Ranger, Toyota Tacoma, and Nissan Frontier boards indicates all is not well over there, either.
Now I'm sure you will refuse to believe that most people I know with Dakotas are more than satisfied, but I don't care, unless you want to call me a liar. At this point your note is so notably sour that I doubt you'll ever change your opinion, regardless of facts otherwise, and since your admitted hatred is so obviously compulsive I'm sure Dodge felt they had nothing to lose with you.
Fortunately for you there are a host of competitive product out there. Try one. Please.
Thus, I did the most basic thing, I traded it and got a vehicle that so far has held up better than the Dak.
Yes, I agree that all Daks and Chrysler products are NOT junk. MAtter of fact, until the Dakota, I had nothing but good service from Chrysler products. And let me tell you, I pounded those vehicles, hard! Yet they never broke or left me stranded.
I see where this guy is coming from. He vented (and I have too but that was a loooooong time ago). What he needs to do is decide whether or not he wants to get his rig fixed or get rid of it and try another vehicle.
It is a crapshoot these days. I've talked with people who rave about their Hyundais and at the same time, converse with people who have had nothing but problems. So in the end, who is right?
That being said, I may consider a Dodge again when I pay off my zuke. Time will tell on that. ONe thing though, should I decide to try again with Dodge, I will research my [non-permissible content removed] off with respect to the brakes! LOL. If they are still junk, then at least I know aftermarket will be an option.....as others here have posted.:)
Well, I can understand anyone being upset with getting something less than satisfactory, especially when the product is as expensive as a motor vehicle. And I'm not naive enough to believe everyone's Dakota has been as good as mine.
But he crossed the line, in my opinion, when he tried to cast Dakota owners as something less than intelligent for buying one. It is curiously oxymoronic that he bought the same make and model as I did, yet he implies that he was fooled but the rest of us are stupid. It reeks a little of saturated self-indulgent pity. His "story" in reality is a diatribe and as such did not elicit any sympathy from me. He was in effect castigating Dakota owners for owning one. I know the type. He wants everyone to hate Dakotas and Dodge because he does and anyone with something good to say about one becomes a target for ridicule.
Needless to say my first visit for warranty service occurred last week after 23 very pleasant months in my Dak. The problems were minor and the dealer's service was outstanding. At this point in terms of both mileage and time this Dakota has been the best vehicle I've ever owned, bar none. My '93 Nissan was good, but not this good. Our '99 Toyota is as bad as the last Chevy we ever owned, which is pretty bad! Of all the people I know I can only name one that's had less vehicle service time than me and that's on a Kia.
As to the brakes, if I can keep the scuz off of mine they're smooth. My around town driving doesn't help that, unfortunately. But even this isn't a significant problem. I'm at 31K with the factory rotors -- so far. The pads are wearing very well with about 70% pad life left. I'm actually quite happy with this vehicle.
Hope everything is well with you and your family.
Take care.
Bests,
Dusty
It's unfortunate that you've had problems and even more so that either the dealer didn't back you up or the factory didn't take care of you. No one would blame you for walking away from Dodge if they couldn't get it right. But at the same time there are those that haven't experienced these problems, have had good dealer service and are justifiably pleased with the Dakota.
I will also tell you that I did my share of research before I bought this '03 Dakota. Even though most people I talked to that owned one for a while had very few problems, I was initially suspect of Dodge truck reliability. I am now convinced that the Dakota is probably one of the better trucks on the market. Yes, they had some issues in previous years but I also see that they've been addressed.
When I compare price, value, features, and performance, there is really nothing that equals the Dakota in it's market segment.
I hope your next purchase, what ever it is, is a much better experience for you.
Regards,
Dusty
The Malfunction Lamp came on again a few days later. I drove to the dealer and the tech immediately checked it out with the DRB2. He said that a small leak was usually a cracked evaporative return line, either under the hood by the pump or at the fuel tank. But the lines on mine looked good. A "large leak" code is usually thrown when you fill up with gas with the engine idling, or start the vehicle with the gas cap loose or off.
In this case he felt that the gas cap might be the culprit, in part because this was intermittent and also because he didn't like the way the cap tightened. He installed a new one and so far the problem hasn't returned.
One note: the new gas cap is different than the original version. The new one is shaped somewhat differently and medium gray in color. The tech also said that the gas caps are usually the culprit for this type of problem (large leak detected). He said this was the first time he saw one that caused a "small leak" code, however.
He also said that on the '04 Dakota they went to steel lines in the evaporative return system because of this problem.
Bests,
Dusty
Is that Suzuki really holding up better? I got the impression from what I read in the Suzuki forum you were trying for a buyback!
No, its not my evil twin either!
while making turns. 50K miles. Changed rear lube with Amsoil 75/w90 + 4oz. slip additive. Squeak is gone.
Gonna need a new set of tires soon.
Can I resolve this problem myself with limited tools or do I need to take it into a dealership? Mine is a 2003 Quad 4.7 5-45RFE LSD 3.92?
Thanks in advance,
dataguru
Thanks Ger & Best Regards,
dataguru