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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions



  • pentastarpentastar Posts: 4
    I went through the same scenerio last Sunday after Tenefly sent me the wrong part.
    The part number on the sensor is 2898 and looks exactly like the one you have a pic of there.The one they sent had a speedometer shaft sticking out of it.
    You can find the clip to release the connector right on the very top of it,I had fun finding it too but I did release it and separated it so I could clean it up to find the part number on it.
    I have not heard back from Tenefly yet but I am sure they will replace it.My problem is going under the truck twice when I explained it all in the original order to avoid this.
    I am going to look at the part you found and see if I can order it sooner. Ron
  • live77live77 Posts: 4
    I have a 1992 Dakota with the 5.2 engine. The other day driving down the highway with ac on high nice and cold inside the cab, It was about 100 outside. All the sudden It started getting warm inside the cab. I put my hand up to the vents and it was blowing cold air but not very hard. I tried moving the switch for the blower and basically seemed to only blow on low and maybe one notch higher but not enough to keep it cool inside. Today will driving it the ac was blowing great then all the sudden no fan at all. Is this just a blower motor that went out or something else? I have to get this fixed asap as it is going to be near 100 for the next week. Hope someone can help.
  • 68valiant68valiant Posts: 4
    I have 2001 Dakota Quad Cad 4x4 that recently developed an electrical gremlin. The keyless entry, power/automatic locks and dome lights have all stopped working (temporarily). Also the "Service 4x4" light comes on when I start the engine, which starts normally. As soon as I drive a few blocks the light goes out and the locks and the rest start functioning again.

    It has done this 3 times in the last 2 days; all 3 times have been in the evening. I called my local dealer and the Service Manager and I talked about the CTM and other possibilities. He suggested that it could be a loose ground near the CTM under the kick panel, or posssibly a bad battery,as this happens sometimes in Jeeps.

    I had the guys at Schucks check the battery and charging system. I did find out that the battery is about 200 amps down from the 750 amps for starting, but all else tested fine.

    Does anyone have any suggestions? I would prefer to not have to replace the CTM.

  • ron35ron35 Posts: 134
    live77 - It is more than likely that this is a variable resistor, which controls the blower speeds. Not very expensive and easy to replace ($20-$30). Not sure of the location on your vehicle but it might be on the firewall under the hood.

  • Just stumbled on this site and like the idea of a dakota owners forum. I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota club cab 4x4 that I bought almost 2 years ago used. Since then I have had 2 calipers lock up on me and have had them replaced. It has 72,000 miles on it which is not normal to go through that many calipers. I have taken it to shops and the dealer. They have checked the master cylinder as well as the brake lines and cannot find anything. Any ideas? I recently had my ball joints replaced with the recall and was told that this might fix the problem but I don't see how. Any info would be great.

  • live77live77 Posts: 4
    Thanks Ron35 I appreciate the reply. It is going to be tomorrow before I can get it looked at so if there are any other ideas/suggestions please go ahead and let me know.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Well, your post mentioned the immediate things that come to my mind. The battery could do this. For some reason on Dakotas a punky battery can cause the strangest things. Having the chimes go off occasionally is one I've actually seen. If original, your Daks battery is about the right age to have things happen.

    The Central Timer Module will also be a likely culprit, especially in your vintage Dakota.

    Best regards,
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I don't see how a ball joint replacement is going to fix a frozen caliper, either.

    You could have moisture in the brake fluid which will cause the pistons in the calipers to rust internally leading to piston seizure. A complete flush of the brake system will be required to resolve this. If both calipers have frozen, this could be the cause.

    Another more a deterioration of the rubber brake lines going to from the caliper to the steel line. What happens is the rubber absorbs brake fluid and swells, closing off the passage on the inside of the line. When brake pressure is applied, brake fluid will be forced into the caliper. But when the brake pedal is returned the rubber line closes up and pressure is not released from the caliper. If the caliper on the same wheel has frozen twice, I would recommend changing both rubber lines.

    Of course, you could just have leaky piston seals on the caliper and this will cause seizing of the caliper piston.

  • I have no spark going to my distribuator of my 87 dakota. I have checked aand changed everything from my spark contol comp. to my carb, except my distribuator some one please help
  • ron35ron35 Posts: 134
    I have a 2K Dak CC 4.7 5 speed. I have heard some talk on this forum in the past about getting the power steering fluid changed. I don't have any problems right now but I am thinking of getting this done before I do have problems. How much does this cost to have the dealership do this.

  • Alright thanks, yeah it was the same wheel for both calipers so I'll try changing the lines. Appreciate the advice haven't heard anyone tell me that yet.

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Have you checked the pick-up assembly inside the distributor?

  • 68valiant68valiant Posts: 4
    Thanks Dusty. I re-tightened the ground on the CTM and cleaned the battery terminals. It has yet to malfunction. I am planning to replace the battery this weekend. If that doesn't fix it, I will to take it to the dealer.

    Thanks again,
  • moaboveparmoabovepar Posts: 11
    Hello once again! My '02 Quad Cab produces a lot of engine noise when I step on the accelerator. I notice that the RPMs shoot up and engine noise increases louder than normal. This generally happens on really hot days here in Phoenix. I had my T-Stat replaced and radiator flushed and filled twice now and apparently that didn't do it. It doesn't make the noise all the time. I've gotten advice that maybe this is a transmission problem. The RPMs will shoot up to 6 maybe 7000 then it will shift down and run normal, when I do hear the eccessive engine noise, it's only when I accelerate from a complete stop. It's an automatic transmission by the way.

    Any Ideas?
  • moaboveparmoabovepar Posts: 11
    Actually, it's more like 4 to 5000 that it will shoot up it's in neutral.
  • motojaymotojay Posts: 2
    I just bought a used Dakota with 51K mi. Truck is in great shape, bought it private sale. On the test drive, I tried using the directional and it wasn't working. Owner said it was a coincidnece... Drove home, changed 25A fuse and all good. Put about 250 mi. on it so far and last night it blew AGAIN.

    Any suggestions before I start looking for this problem from scratch?

  • motojaymotojay Posts: 2
    Anyone know about stock radio wiring harness compatibility?

    I'd like to swap my AM/FM/Cass stock radio for one with a CD player. Lots on Ebay but I don't know which years might be compat.. Was there a change in 2001?

  • eden818eden818 Posts: 1
    Hi i have a problem. When i start my 99 dodge dakota sport truck up and then put it into drive the truck will accelerate but it hesitates to go into 2nd gear. After the first time it will not do it again. i stop and the go again and it is fine it is just at the beginning of every start.
    Is there any one that has had that problem or knows what i mean can you post a reply to me.

    Josh :confuse:
  • blue99rtblue99rt Posts: 1
    Man i saw your fruxtation with tire kingdom and i was like wow i will never even think of using tire kingdom again. i wanted a simple alignment on my 99 dakota r/t. went in there and asked the guy if they could check it for me he was a smart [non-permissible content removed] about it and i am pretty sure he was the manager he said our guys dont go to school for many years to become certified to be forced to work for free. after they aligned it they told me when i hit a bump it will be out of alinment again. why did they do it if they new it couldnt be aligned? he told me it was the control arm bushings. they shop that changed the bushings for me said there was nothing wrong with the ones i had on there. i went somewhere else and had them done and weht back to tire kingdom to do the alignment since i had a 1 year guarantee on it. so i went to tire knigdom and said i wanted an alignment and they did it. this time they tried to say it had frame damage and thats why it would align correct. luckley the 1st guy i delt with wrote on on the paperwork that it need upper control arm bushings. i showed it to him and he said i can get my money back on the alignment. i still was getting mad with them anbd one guy said if i call the 800 number they will take care of all of ot. he called and they said all i can get back is the moneyu for the alinment. then they assistant manager said give me 24 hours and i will take care of it. he did i got my money back on the alinment and the other shops laber and the parts. then come to fine out it need upoper tie rod ends. after doing that i still heard the noise that i heard the second i drove away from tire kingdom. the shop looked at it were i had the tierod ends done. they said that tire kingdom didnt tighten something up like they were suppose to. tire kingdom sucks and i will never use them again heck i will recomend to anyone that is going to have repairs done not to use them.
  • I have not had any major problems with my truck until now. There are two problems that may or may not be related. The first one is it starts fine, and then after driving for a couple of minutes, it will hestitate, like it is going to quit, and I hear a clicking noise the whole time, then it will run fine. It does this several times a day. I have learned that when it starts acting up, if I shift into neutral, the rpms will rev up, and then it will go to normal idle speed, and then I can shift back into drive and all is fine. It does this more at low speeds than high speeds. The second problem is when I am at high speeds, the transmition acts like it wants to shift. I feel a bump every so often. It does not do this if the overdrive is off.
  • johndakjohndak Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Dakota 2WD auto trans V8, 112k miles The "ENGINE CHECK" light came on this weekend, however the truck seemed to be running fine. I figured ok, the O2 sensor or something like that had gone. I took it to a dealer this morning and they said the check engine light was caused by no drop in RPM when it goes into OD, therefore, the torque converter is going. Bottom line - remove trans, replace torque converter, cost $2000. I am not sure this is a valid chain of logic based on the check engine light indicator. Has anyone else had this same problem? Any thoughts on where I should go from here? Second opinion? Trade? Leave it alone and chance trans failure and additional cost?

    Thanks for any input.
  • My air conditioning stopped working about 15 monthes ago. It would work initially (when cool ambient temp) but would stop when I actually needed. I took it into a garage to get checked out/recharged. The mechanic took a quick look and told me that the AC clutch was burned out ...and could not handle any real load. At some point it stopped even partially working.
    At that time ..... I chose not to fix it.
    But now I want to fix it. I checked out all the circuitry as prompted in my Haynes manual it it appeared to be alright. It had no recommended value for the electromagnet ring but mine showed zero ohms.
    I bought a used guaranteed-good AC clutch and changed it today. AC does still not work. The second electromagnetic ring also reads 0 ohms. I read another message which talked about a 3.7 ohm value for some AC component but did not understand which one.
    So .... what's my problem? Is it the electromagnetic ring or something else?
    Thanks, Greg.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    My guess would be the torque converter clutch is not operating. I'd suspect other problems if the torque converter itself was bad.

    Two-thousand sounds like they want to rebuild.

  • 05 Dakota Laramie 7000 miles and a bad shimmy that peaks around 40mph. I have had it in for service......Turned rotors, turned drums, Rotate & High speed balance. NO resolution. Still shakin. Dealer takes it for a test drive and says its fine and the next time I hop in the vehicle I find myself a 1/4 mile from the dealership heading down the hill for a stop light and Yysyydyyddyydyddyydyd My teeth start chattering...It is not absolutelty consistant. I have had the air bag light illuminate one time while breaking at highway speeds. I hope they can find a solution for all of us.
  • npsltnpslt Posts: 1
    I have the same problem -- What is the part number of the AC clutch?
    -- thanks
  • gunrunr1gunrunr1 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 dakota v-8 5spd 85000mi , I'm experiencing engine noise( knocking-rattling-pinging, etc.), mostly when leaving from a dead stop, and then when I accelerate from low rpms. I use reg-unleaded, and 30w pennzoil. I live in the vegas desert so I hear it more in the summer mo. I'm the 2nd owner, the original owner used the truck to tow a 24ft trl from vegas to denver, I also have a loud squeak when I release the clutch in the lower gears, is this the throw-out bearing?
  • I don't know the part number. I have been dealing with used parts. All the V-8s of that time, seem to use the same compressor/clutch assembly.

    I have determined that the used replacement clutch which I installed is blowing the fuse immediately. Have checked out the circuit extensively and have not been able to locate short. When I plug a light into the circuit instead of the clutch ..... no fuses blow and everything works fine.

    I am blaming the replacement parts and chasing the seller for another replacement.

    I still would like to know the proper resistance of electromagnetic ring. The 2 or 3 ohms that I have on both rings (I initially thought it was zero) seems like a virtually non-existant load. :confuse:
  • cachercacher Posts: 1
    My dealer just suggested this when I went in for driveline service. He said it would cost $79.95.
    Does any one know what is the proceedure to flush the steering fluid myself?
  • bbrain44bbrain44 Posts: 3
    I finally received my speed sensor from the I just finished installing it (took about 20 minutes including the jackup and down)and my problem has been fixed. I don't know how long this sensor will hold up, but it sure beats paying the dealer $50 plus. I would suggest that anyone with a modicum of mechanical knowledge can replace this.
    Thanks everyone for the assist.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have replaced (flushed) my PS fluid several times. If you are not worried about using up a bit of fluid.... then it is VERY simple to do. Just suck the resivour empty and replace with fresh fluid .... then drive for a couple days and repeat. Just keep doing this until you are satisfied that you have diluted the old fluid with enough new fluid.

    Since I had a SPECIFIC problem that I was trying to fix (hard steering at -20F) I went a step further. First, I did the above until the fluid was almost water-clear.

    Then, I purchased RedLine PS fluid. I pulled off the return hose from the resivour and lowered into a bucket. Then turned the wheels lock-to-lock several times remove as much fluid as I could... then installed the RedLine fluid.

    The good news is that FOR THE 1st TIME EVER.... my Dakota will now steer when the outside temp. is below -15F.

This discussion has been closed.