Options
Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
FYI: I have an'01 QC SLT-Plus, 4.7L, auto., T&H package (16" wheels).
GATOR72
I thought I seen a posting on where to get a BTB, other than the place listed in my owners manual. Would appreciate any info.
Also, dealer put 10w30 instead of 5w30, seems like my mileage dropped off some, about 1.5-2 mpg. Think that would make a diff? I'm in S. Fl..
The 318 has some known "problems" that can be diagnosed/fixed once one knows what to look for.
Please review this URL;
http://www.fast4x4.net/
Pay special attention to the instructions about how to diagnose a leaking bellypan gasket and to clean the IAC motor. (Idle Air Compensator) Each step has a digital photo to show you EXACTLY what to do 8-)
Your rig will run much better after perfoming these important procedures.
Thanx Will
Thanks,
Shawn
There was a recall on the 4x4 switch, which was re programmed 2 months ago..No problems!
Got motor oil change last week and as soon as I got home and put the transmission on reverse. I heard this loud "CHUG" then metal grind.
Had it towed back to dealership 2 hours later.
Service Adviser said the "tranny" went out!
Is this common on all 2001 Dakotas Quab Cabs 4x4
Or Was I sold a LEMON?
Signed,
Very Upset Dakota Owner
Samse5
Do you recommend or not recommend including the spare tire in the rotation? Why? If recommended, what should the rotation pattern be?
My Dakota is at 7700 miles and overdue for its first rotation. Just in case it makes any difference in your recommendation, I have a 2001 QuadCab 4x2 with the tire and handling package (255/65/R16) and the spare is identical except for the lack of tread wear.
Drive Safe,
Joe
If you do choose to include it, by all means follow the owners manual for the recommended "pattern" of rotation.
I have chosen to INCLUDE the spare tire in the rotation schedule for the following reasons.
1) My spare is a FULL SIZE spare on an aluminium wheel just like the rest of the truck.
2) Since I have the optional "handling" option, I have HUGE wheels and the big 31" tires.
3) NOT including the spare in the rotation is wasting well over $100 of tire/wheel that I paid for.
4) The overall "wear time" of 5 tires will give me over a year more of driving time before the tires fail state inspection and have to be replaced.
Sounds like your experience is bad manufacturing of the tires themselves. Goodyear should replace them for you at no cost.
I may have to help a friend out and tow his boat to my house. It may be over the 2k lbs.
Would it hurt to tow it one way less than 15 miles without the fluid change? I will definately take it easy on this trip.
Also, should a person get the front axle fluid changed as well, if it is a 4x4?
Thank you for any input.
Bob
1. I'm doing the work myself and I have to incorporate to spare while I work my way around the truck. It seems silly not to bolt the spare up tight and get the task over with ASAP.
2. I've heard that its not good to mix different tire treads on a 4x4. Because I have a 4x4, I want all five tires to basically wear out at the same time. That will give me a clean decision point in the future to determine if I want to continue with the Goodyear RT/S or try something else.
3. By incorporating the spare in the rotation, I'll be able to go more miles prior to having to buy those 5 new tires when the time comes.
If you accellerate REAL SLOW... the load on the differential will be minimised (your final roadspeed is almost irrelevent.) Keep in mind that the BEARINGS take the bulk of the weight of the load... the Differential only PULLS the load.
Everyone should know that there have been reports of moisture (ie water) damage in some Dodge truck differentials. Apparently the factory-fill was found to be contaminated in several Dodge/Jeep trucks as of late.
Towing or not... We all should consider changing the differential(s) lube.
What is the best way to include the spare into a tire rotation scheme? that is ( X ) the tires and place the spare Where? or it doent matter?
Presently I simply rotate front to back, 2 times sofar with 10,200 miles, Without including the spare!
anybody have any ideas? its possible that i got lower quality gas, so im hoping once this tank is gone the problem goes away....
ive already reset the computer by disconnecting the battery, and the light has gone away, but the engine symptoms still exist....
anybody have any ideas?
This is the first I heard about contaminated rear axle fluid out of the factory.
Do you know which build dates are affected?
Thanks,
Bob
Service Bulletin Number: 030200
Bulletin Sequence Number: 105
Date of Bulletin: 0003
NHTSA Item Number: SB610618
Make: DODGE TRUCK
Model: DAKOTA
Year: 2000
Component: SUSPENSION:SINGLE AXLE:REAR
Summary: SUBJECT PERTAINS TO 9.25 AXLE GEAR MARKING COMPOUND CAUSING A MILKY-LIKE APPEARANCE TO THE AXLE FLUID. *TT
I rotated the spare in at the passenger rear position and removed the driver front to become the new spare.
It's not rocket science...
On another note:
What is with the synthetic-in-the-rear thing? Do rear ends suck so bad nowadays that they force you to put in synthetic oil if you're going to tow at all?? What about all the years were there was no synthetic, those rears did just fine. Really makes you think about the quality of manufacturing these days. Synthetic, albeit better, sounds like a band-aid for a cheaply manufactured differential - another way for manufacturers to cut costs.
Just a thought.
Any hints for my local body shop on how to mount 31x10.5 tires on my new Aluminum wheel without scratching the finish on the wheel about two inches out from the center cap? They have wrecked two new wheels in a row for my 2000 4x4 Quad after a January encounter with a parking lot snow plow gouged the original wheel.
On their second try they baked the wheel in their curing oven because they thought maybe the finish was too soft and put cardboard between the mounting tool and the wheel. (Maybe the cardboard makes things worse?)
Thanks,
Dave
-fvracer
Shawn
Consider that without a drain plug, the entire differential cover must be removed to properly drain the oil. Then, the inside of the diff. (the gears and yoke) should be "hosed down" with the proper cleaning fluid. Only then can the cover be re-installed with silicone gasket maker and re-filled with the new synthetic fluid. (And friction modifier if this is an LSD)
The above "hosing off" procedure is only needed when switching from dyno to synth lube to avoid mixing of incompatablies. After that, one could use a "suction hose" to remove the the lube for replacement.
TIA,
-----Alex-----
Thanks for the mounting info. I will pass it on.
Dave
between Mobile 1 oil changes. Made the switch
to Mobile 1 and Mobile 1 filter yesterday at 4,600 miles on QC's odometer. Appreciate your input. Bill in NY
http://www.auffarth.com/dodge.html
You may opt to go with "schedule B" of you wish. (ref documents in glovebox)
How may thousand miles are you expecting to get from your truck... 100K 200K...more?
The common 3000-mile oil change is only suggested by people that get PAID to change your oil. It is a waste of your time and $$ to cange your oil that often.
If you WANT to change engine oil more often than 7500miles... every 5000 is a good chioce and will not cost nearly as much as every 3Kmiles.
HERE IS A GOOD QUESTION... HOW MANY FOLKS HAVE EVER WORN OUT AN ENGINE?...anyone?
(I have racked up over 100K miles on many vehicles and NEVER wore out any engines )
ALl my engines were running fine, even that old Mercury (351W)
The rest of the vehicles certainly needed work, but engine wise, they were all running fine.
Only engine I recall getting worn out was the 71 Olds 98 my pop drove for years, it had 312K on the clock when he parked it (a little rod knock and very burnt valves) and a badly slipping turbo hyramatic 400 tranny.
I am having the fluid changed tomorrow. Should I expect any differences with the Synthetic or will this be largely transparent to the operating of the truck?
Shawn
You may notice the slightest improvement in MPG, but that's about it.
Jim H
Too bad you did not cordinate this with the switch to synth lube. Much of the cost is just opening the unit up to install the parts.
Check out this URL;
http://www.ring-pinion.com/index.html
There's no clear answer on whether this is really a problem or just within tolerances. No definitive answer from DC customer service e-mail as to specs and different wheel sizes, etc. It looks more level from the rear, but doesn't measure out even. Nothing done to front torsion bars.
After much discussion, I like it as is. Leaning, not leaning, whatever. ahasher, how did you manage not driving your QC for so long? Mine was in for 1 day and it was too much.
Advice: Don't bother about leaning unless cause and solution are clear.
I hope you get your leveling issue resolved to your satisfaction. While i dont have the "leaning" problem and other underside problems (popping suspension, punpkin whine) discussed here lately, my idle and fusebox transplant issues were enough for me to understand the frustration of havign an ongoing problem you are trying to resolve.
The main concerns about compatability are more with the additive package that the differing oil brands contain. Many use sulpher-based additives...(this is why many gear oils are so STINKY smelling)
As for possible problems if there is some mixing? I am not sure of the concequences.
One way to reduce the possibility of mixing without doing a complete "rinse down" of the guts is to allow PLENTY of time for the old oil to drain out. Being very viscous... overnight would not be too long to really drain it well.
Anyway, the Dakota did just fine. Returned 18.2 this time on Amoco 87 gas from PA. AC on and running about 70 or so on I70.
Even the 45RFE shifted well on this trip, hard or soft; am I finally seeing the light here? Is it learning? Or am I learning? Bpeebles? Ahasher?
Bueller? Biglucy? Bookitty please join in, I am getting lonely here!
For kicks and grins, I pulled #1 plug, looked at it, marvelled at how clean it was and put it back. Electrode wear looks mimimal to the naked eye. No oil used since the last oil change at 16,567 (18,209 on it now) and the mobil 1 still looks clean.
All in all a good trip although I have been drafted into a labor camp of sorts. Oh what the heck, dad needed help.
PS I just checked Ebay, check this item out, 1997 - 2001 Dodge Dakota Lower Valance, Item # 593295269. You can contact this guy and see if he can help. His sale sheet says chrome or painted upper bar also available. Rick
9606 for 2000 and up vehicles
It may be the case for some of you. You can probably check it by playing around with it.