Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
Lease Questions - Ask Here
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
Thanks for the response and the pointers. I read the articles and they are very very informative. The MSRP of the car is $33670. The selling price for the car is $30,200 (500 dollars below invoice).
Thanks in advance for your help.
Man Washington state has a 9.1% sales tax! Yikes. I hope that there isn't any state income tax. I am not personally all that familiar with how sales tax is calculated on leased vehicles in your state, but you may be able to find out by visiting one of the following sites: Washington State Department of Licensing or Washington State Department of Revenue.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
Of the three leases that you provided details of in your post, the third one looks the most reasonable to me because its money factor is the closest to Lexus Financial Services' base lease money factor for this truck. I am not sure what the "Cap Cost--$5,189.30" that you mentioned means though. Do you mean that this money is a capitalized cost reduction aka down payment? If so, I suggest that you rework this deal using the same prices and money factor, but no cap cost reduction. It is in your best interest to put as little money down as possible when leasing.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
Thanks for putting the quoted MF into better perspective for me.
Unfortunately I am coming off-lease in mid-Sep, which will probably not be long enough for me to realize any appreciable savings on this hot new model.
Speaking of hot new models, I would also like to consider the 2006 Lexus IS for my next car, but it has an Oct 1 launch date as of now. I have inquired about extending my 2003 Infiniti G35 lease, but the lessor, Chase, will give me no more than 1 month. I saw the new IS at the NY Auto Show last month and just about fell in love with it. Of course looks aren't everything. There is also promise of 300+ horsepower. I expect that this second generation Lexus IS will be much more comparable to the performance and road feel of the sports sedan benchmark BMW 3-Series. At the same time, I expect the new Lexus model to be far more reliable than the new BMW model.
David D
If you were to lease a 2005 Toyota Tundra 4WD (not the Double Cab version) through Toyota Financial Services in your area in May for 36 months with 12,000 miles per year, its base lease money factor and residual value should be an extremely attractive .00001 (that's about as close to an interest free lease as one can get) and 62%, respectively. TFS calculates leases on vehicles a little differently than most captive finance companies do though because it places strict limits and caps on the options that can be and the residualized.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
0.00125 and 60% for 36/36k on the 2005 530i
At 1/2 the MF sure makes the 05 appear to be an option....
Dennis
buy 28995 36/39 months 12k mi year 795 aquistion fee.
I've just found this page and I would like to check if I did a good deal and help anyone looking for the same type of car and deal.
Trade in:
2003 Audi A4 Avant 1.8T Quattro Tip. Cold, Premium and 16" wheels. Metallic Paint. 32K miles.
Payoff: $20,700.00
New car:
2005.5 Audi A4 Sedan 2.0T Quattro Tip. Cold, Premium, Sport, Lighting, Navi, Dark Wood, Bose, Metallic Paint.
Deal:
32K Miles;
Contract: 24 Months
No Money Down + 23 x $576.00
Money Factor: 0.00135 (3.24%)
Residual Value: 66%
Do you think it was a good deal?
BTW, for those looking for some information about the new Audi:
Most have:
Sport Package (All Season);
Bose
It's a great improvement over the B6 platform.
Thanks!
I'm self-employed and my accountant has recommended leasing for tax deduction purposes. Never leased before, interested in 05 Subaru Outback 2.5i Ltd and trying to estimate what we might expect to pay per month. Wondering about money factor, residual value & lease term options.
Accountant we should get 48 month term instead of 36, bc it will keep mnthly pmts low and bc it's very unlikely car will require mech repairs in that last year past warranty term that will exceed what we'll save in monthly pmts (I work from home and drive very little, usually under 10k mi per year, but planning to get 12k mi allowance). All tips on edmunds say don't get lease term that extends past standard warranty. Who's right?
Also wanting to know if we face penalties for turning car back in after 48 v 36 months.
FYI, just put out call for buy price quotes via edmunds "get dealer quotes" function (understand it's better to do this than start with lease quotes) . Waiting to hear from dealers.
Help?
Looking at leases for '05 SRX (V6) through GMAC in the Washington DC area.
Basic contours of lease offer from various DC dealers:
3 year lease
12,000 mi/yr
$389/mo
$3,579 due @ signing
$99 processing fee + tax and tags
Is the down payment a negotiable term in leases through GMAC or are these figures set in stone by GMAC?
I am aware that GM is currently offering $1,000 Hot Button Cash which I believe can be used to reduce capitalized cost but not the down payment. Is this correct?
Are there other GM cash offers or financial incentives available in this area to help bring the capitalized cost down?
Assuming a purchase price of $36,000 for the '05 SRX I want to lease what would be an acceptable residual value for this vehicle at end of lease.
Thanks in advance for any feedback
I just found this site. I live in NJ. I am currently looking at Audi A8L. I would like to lease the car for 42 months. I am new to lease. What should I look for in lease? What are the current lease rates for A8L? I would appreciate if you tell me what if I go for 48 month lease.
Thanks in advance.
Jiten
The "cap cost" is the down payment that I am willing to put down to keep the monthly payment under $500. Would making additional security deposits get me to this point as well? They have a lease program that would allow me to make 9 additional security deposits. What is the correct money factor for someone with Tier 1 credit?
Also, is the $39,500 or $39,146 a good selling price if the MSRP is $43,683 (includes everything except Mark Levinson system and rear ent. system) or could I do better. My main concern is the selling price and the money factor and trying to keep the monthly payment under $500. Is this doable?
liltash, if you have a major repair in the last month of the lease, will your accountant pay for the repair?
My recommendation is to make sure you have a warranty that covers the full term of the lease.
This is a follow up question to a response you gave me a couple weeks ago...
I am moving to New York in a few weeks and wanted to lease a car in MA before I move so that I don't have to pay the NY vicarious liability charges (because of vicarious liability I don't think you can even lease a Subaru in NY). However, will I have to pay anything towards vicarious liability coverage when I do move? Will the leasing company give me any trouble if I want to move to NY state, or are out-of-state leasing companies not held to the NY vicarious liability charges, even if the car they are loaning is being used by someone in NY?
Thanks!
For 3 years a dealer quoted me a residual value of 56% .
Hey Car_Man could u check my math on these numbers for me, new to all this trying to get everything straight.
Plan on paying title/reg/all other fees up front..
Audi A4 Quattro Lease (Premium/Sport/Bose/Paint)
Money Down 1500(includes 1200 for trade)
Sticker Price $35,670.00
Residual Value Percentage 0.56
Total Residual Value $19,975.20
Invoice Price of Car $33,140.00
Net Cap Cost $31,640.00
Residual Value $19,975.20
Depreceation over 36 Months $11,664.80
Term of Lease (months) 36
Monthly Depreceation Payment $324.02
Net Cap Cost (A7) $31,640.00
Residual Value (A5) $19,975.20
Total $51,615.20
Money Factor 0.00135
Money Factor Payment $69.68
Monthly Depreceation Payment (A12) $324.02
Money Factory Payment (A18) $69.68
Bottom Line Monthly Lease $393.70
RI Tax $27.56
TOTAL Montly Lease Payment $421.26
Is this 1) right, lol and 2) optomistic or flat out wrong.
Thanks
Michael
Could you provide me with the latest numbers on a lease for an M35x for 39 months/15,000 miles and 36months/15,000? Thanks
The lease on my 2000 BMW 740iL is about to end and I would like to lease
another two year old (i.e., 2003) 745Li. Can you give the me the various lease
variables I should expect to see for a fair lease in New Jersey; also any strategies I should use. I usually get a 36 month, 12k miles per year. Also I noticed that two year old 745's are $5-10k more than the two year old 740iL I leased three years ago and to boot they seem scarcer. Do you have any reasons for the higher price and lower inventory of 745Li's? Thanks in advance for your help.
Rich
I would greatly appreciate your advice as my lease ends in a few days and I'm not sure what to do. (I'm in NYS)
The 36 mo lease on my 2002 VW Passat ends May 31st and I'm a little more than 16,000 miles under the 45,000 miles allowed! I want to be as economical as possible but I'm not sure what to do in terms of leasing another Passat to take advantage of any incentive they might give me since I'm returning way under the mileage or leasing a different car. (I know - I should have done my homework before now.) I love the Passat but I think I want a different car for my next car. I really like the Audi A4 and am wondering if you think I can work out a good deal - no cap cost reduction and monthly payments under $400 for a 36 month lease, 12 or 15k miles/yr?? What does VW or Audi do in terms of loyalty incentives?
I am also considering the Saab 93 2.0T - can I do anything with them to take advantage of the low mileage on my Passat?
Also, when visiting a dealership, do I mention straight out that I have a Passat lease ending and am way under the mileage or would that be something to negotiate after negotiating the cap cost of a new car?
Thanks very much for your help.
Would you kindly supply me with the following lease information for a 05 Acura TL w/ std options @12k miles. MSRP is $33,100+$570 (delivery)
1. Residual @36 months?
2. Residual @48 months?
3. MF I should expect to receive? Is this negotiable?
4. How much should I try to negotiate below TMV?
One dealer quoted me:
Residual 51% @48months
Edmunds TMV price
MF .0023 (5.52%)
I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. BTW, I have excellent established credit.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Richard
Also, you might see if you can find a private buyer for your car if it is so under mileage and see if you can get more than buyout on it. I was able to do this once, and even used the dealer to complete the private sale transaction. Why? Because they could handle the money matters, they inspected the car for $100, and they helped the new buyer finance it rather than pay cash. They got a good deal out of it (two financing deals, not one) and everyone was happy.
YMMV.
Hello. I was wondering if I could get a sample lease on a base M35. I keep getting high monthy payments when I figure it out. I also dont really want to buy the vehicle after the lease. I have a trade in. What bothering me is i have a 2003 Dodge Ram that cost me 34000 (36000 with tax) . I put 0 down and my payment is 585 with tax. Some of the lease figures i am gettig and seeing are alot higher. Thanks for any help
Aloha,
Cyn in HI
There is no such thing as a "lease consultant - deals directly with the manuf" .... they either work for a dealership or they are the dealer principle for that particular manufacturer ..... sounds like a broker who's charging $299 ..
Terry.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
You never mentioned the selling price or MSRP of the FX35 that you are interested in leasing. These are important number for you as a consumer to know for two reasons. First, the selling prices of leased vehicles can be negotiated, just as if you were paying cash for them. Without knowing this vehicle's selling price in relation to its MSRP you don't know how much of a discount you are getting on it. The second reason is that one needs the selling price and MSRP, including the destination charge, of a vehicle to calculate its lease payment. I would be more than happy to work up a sample lease payment on the FX35 that you are interested in for you if you let me know what these numbers are as well as how many miles per year you need to be able to drive it.
In order to determine whether you should purchase your vehicle at the end of your lease, you need to compare its purchase price at that time to its value on the open market. Even though it states your car or truck's purchase option price on your lease contract, you should place a call to the bank that you are leasing it through just to make sure that you have the correct figure. When you do so, it never hurts to try to haggle with them. Some banks will negotiate the lease-end purchase prices of vehicles. If your initial contact at your bank is not willing to lower your vehicle's purchase price, you may have better luck if you work your way up the ladder to a manager. There is a good chance that they will not lower your vehicle's price, more often than not they will not, but you don't have anything to lose by asking. All of this has to happen several years down the road at the scheduled end of your lease.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
What is the money factor for the same lease, if prepaid?
thanks,
kyfdx
(Car_man rocks!!)
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
You should KNOW how many miles you need on the lease and do not try to reduce your payment to suit your budget by getting fewer miles than you need. At lease end, you have to either buy the car or pay $0.15 (or so) for every extra mile. Much better to get the proper lease miles up front.
Dennis
Compare that number with values you find for trade in and private party sale here at Edmunds, KBB, and NADA, etc. Be sure to factor in the condition, option, and miles. You can also ask in the Real-World Trade-In Values Forum .
If the car is worth more than residual to a dealer or trade in, then you can probably get a dealer to take it off your hands where you make a little profit. If the reality is that it is not worth that much to a dealer, then you can try to sell it private party or just turn it back in.
Find all this out before you go car shopping - since playing trade in can get you a bad deal. Once you know what the old car is worth, then decide to try to trade/sell it or turn it in. If you are going to try to trade, then work the price down on the new car then work the deal on the trade - keep the two deals distinct.
Dennis
Say you lease a car for 36/36k. At the end of the lease you have some parking lot dents and dings and some scratches - something the lease bank may hit you up a few hundred for. If your car is way under miles, say 25k on the clock, are they likely to "forgive" the condition problems or still charge for them?
Normally un-used miles are just "tough luck" for the lessee, but...
My logic was: You agreed to return the car to them at the end of worth the residual. So a perfect car with 36k miles on it would be worth the residual, in theory. If you had a less than perfect car with 25k miles on it - then it should be worth as much or more than the perfect car.
Right?
If you ran the Edmund and KBB values for both noting condition and miles, wouldn't this be a wash? If so, couldn't you avoid having to pay to the problems since you were real low on miles?
Never heard of this, but I was wondering if "the collective" had....
Thanks,
Dennis
Thank you!
The trade-in value is slightly lower than the residual. The retail value, however, is about $2100 higher than the residual - can I make any deal on that basis?
I don't want to sell to a private party (time, hassle) so I'm either going to just turn it in or try to trade in on a new lease, either on a new Passat lease or another car lease. I wasn't sure how to broach the trade in subject with a dealer who I might want to lease from and wasn't sure if I can actually "trade in" a leased car from another mfr.
Although I love the Audi A4 and the BMW 325xi, for economic reasons I think I would either get a new Passat or the Saab 9-3 2.0T. I'm stuck car shopping this weekend now since my lease expires on Tuesday.
Do you know the money factor and residual on a 15k mile, 36 mo lease for each of the 2005 VW Passat GLS 4Motion 1.8T and the 2005 Saab 9-3 Linear 2.0T?
I'm trying to pay 0 towards a cap cost reduction and keep my monthly payments under $400 (preferably no more than $369/mo).
I greatly appreciate any help you can give me.
Thanks very much.
I would like a change from the Passat (although I love the car) and was considering the Audi A4, BMW 325xi or Saab 9-3. I want to keep my monthly payments under $400 and don't want to pay anything towards cap cost reduction so I think my only option is to go with another Passat or the Saab. Any opinions/suggestions?
I posted another message asking if Dennis knows the money factor and residual for each of the Passt GLS 4 Motion 1.8T and the Saab 9-3 2.0T. If you know that information, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thanks for your help.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Basically, what you want to do on your new car is buy a low as possible - right above invoice or less if there is dealer or rebate money. If you do this, then no dealer will give you more than auction or low trade money for your car. You are getting your new car for wholesale so expect wholesale for your trade.
If you had something to trade that the dealer could put on the lot and sell, then you could get more money. Otherwise they will either auction it or wholesale it to a used car lot - and neither of those pays much. The odds of them wanting your trade go up with it is a popular model or perhaps if you trade for the same make - then someone who can't afford (or get financing) new could take your low mile used car.
Get your best price from a number of dealers on the new car, then see what they will do on the trade. If the trade makes you money do it, otherwise turn it in.
Dennis