Dodge Dakota Accessories and Modifications

gregp5 · August 2001

I'm trying to change out my headlight bulbs as I know a few of you have already done. Now I found and removed the 2 10mm screws that are close to the radiator side of the headlight asembly and the black rubber part that pushes in from on top of the fender, but I still can't seem to remove it. It feels like another fastner somewhere on the corner lamp, but I don't see anything.
Can someone please enlighten me ? Before I break something,

Part 2

Just came back from Linex dealer, he did a nice job and the truck looks great ! So thanks to the guys who encouraged me to pay the extra money and get a Linex, I feel it was money well spent...................now if I could only get that headlight out......................

bpeebles · August 2001

(gregp5)Just open the hood and reach behind the headlamp assemblies... No tools needed.

You will be "working blind" and not see what you are doing but esssentially do the following.

1) remove the connector (squeeze the release tab first)
2) 1/4 turn counterclockwise (looking from drivers seat!) of the lamp retainer.
3) retainer pulls off (place it somwhere safe)
4) bulb pulls straight out (observe the "keying" of the tabs on the bulb)

Do not forget to clean envelope with IPA and NEVER touch it befor installing. (finger oils will cause premature failure)

gregp5 · August 2001

We must have some differences between our trucks because on the passenger side there is a metal box with a heat sink blocking access to the headlight from the inside. I started to remove the metal box by removing the 2 screws I saw, but when it wouldn't budge I found a third hidden behind the air cleaners snorkel. I tried to remove the snorkel, but could't pull it out from the air cleaner box so I put everything back together again. So I looked at the driver side and couldn't get my arm in there because of the huge battery and didn't want to remove it because I read it affects the computer. Jeez I only wanted to change the bulbs !! Bpeebles or others, any ideas ? I really don't want to bring the truck somewhere for this. BTW Its a 2001, heavy duty everything and towing and handling package...........maybe this makes a difference.

bpeebles · August 2001

That sounds like your TCM (transmission control module) I do not have the automatic so that area under my hood is (was) empty (I installed my air-horn compressor in that space)

In any case... I am SURE there is a way to replace headlight bulbs without removing the headlamp assemblies. (and disturbing the aiming)

Noone said it was easy...I have replaced my bulbs. (even the one behind the huge battery) Being a contortionist makes it a bit easier ;-)

ahasher · August 2001

When I replaced my pass. side bulb, I had a bit of trouble as well. I have the 4.7 auto so i have the bpeebles identified control module in the way. I had to completely remove the breather box assembly. Not too difficult actually. Undo the C clamp and 2 retaining caps inside the box. It pretty much popped out with a little manipulation of that air cone around other lines. Then I had to reach around to the back of the headlight assembly and blindly undo the bulb. Took me about 30 min start to finish. Not something I would like to do if I was not in my garage with a cold one nearby as a reward. But as bpeebles mentioned, keep the bulb CLEAN as you manipulate back into place and it should last a long time. Good luck..

Oh yeah, the driver side was easier.. except for a donated layer of knuckle skin to the project. (refer to that beer reward)

earl1z19 · August 2001

The box you are speaking of is the transmission control module. The headlight is still easily replacable. First remove the snorkel on the air filter box then just reach around to the bulb which
is right where the intake snorkel was. ( the snorkel will just rotate out of the way )
The drivers side is even easier, just reach in front of the battery and remove the bulb!

poolguy1 · August 2001

Just purchased an 01 QC that was a dealer demo - had about 2600 miles on it - has about everything I wanted on it except for foglights and a sliding rear window. The salesman tells me there is not a factory switch out for the 01's, they would have to install a toggle switch. Is that right? Also quoted me a price of about $350 to install a Mopar sliding rear window, is that a good deal?

bobs5 · August 2001

My 2001 QC was ordered with the fog lights and sliding rear window.
The headlight knob pulls out to activate the fog lights.
There should be a proper switch from mopar to replace the headlight switch in your truck. I don't think a seperate toggle switch is necessary, if the proper replacement switch can be located.

I am not sure about the sliding rear window replacement price. It may be the going price for the window and labor.
Good luck,
Bob

stnick · August 2001

My 2000 quad didn't have fog lights either. I purchased the mopar fog light kit from the dealer parts dept. for I believe $136.00. I installed it myself in a couple of hours. The kit comes with a new headlight switch assembly to replace the existing one. But, you have an 01 with the new dash so check with your parts dept on your model year. good luck, Nick

earl1z19 · August 2001

Is this board still alive?

bpeebles · August 2001

Only if you have something valuable to discuss.... ;-)
We all have it in out message center and follow it diligently anytime there is a new entry!

spike50 · August 2001

There were slow periods last summer right after Dakota Owners group formed. Maybe everyone is going on vacation. BTW, at that time, there were only two owners groups on Edmunds - Dakotas and Cougars.

When I tested a new headlight bulb in my '00, I removed the whole assembly. There is a ball and socket (pivot point) that with a sharp pull while protecting the paint by using a soft flat piece of wood, pops out. With the headlight assembly out, you have easy access to the bulb. This is more difficult to preform in the cold of winter because the plastic ball and socket don't flex easily.

This process did not change the aim of the headlights. Also my more expensive special order Blue Vison Philips bulbs were no different than the factory originals. I don't think that you'll ever get a long lasting, significantly brighter, HID look by simply replacing the factory bulbs. Aren't HID systems $1,000+?

rhyswf · August 2001

Was thinking about getting a set of Putco Bed Rail Caps for my 2001 Quad. Anyone else have these? Any comments? Any suggestions?

redqcslt · August 2001

I'm trying to install a set of driving lights in the fog light cutouts of my 00 SLT Quad 4.7 man. I want to be able to turn them on or off when I am using the high beams only. The wires going to the headlights are energized all the time (must ground thru relay?) so that wont work to power the driving lamps relay. I need a wire that goes to 12v when just the highbeams are on , any ideas. Thanks in advance.

bpeebles · August 2001

(redqcslt) You can do it either way you wish. You just use "negitive logic" to wire it up. (I have been working in electronics for over 30 years... does anyone else remember the 1'st IBM PC that started it all? 2 floppy drives... NO HARD DRIVE AT ALL!!)

Many of the auto relays I install are like this. It uses MUCH less wiring to go from battery+,thru fuse, thru relay coil, thru firewall, to switch and ground the other end of the switch under the dash. This completes the relay-picking circuit.

From there, you may wire the relay contacts as you wish to perform whatever action you want.

Just spend some time with a DVM to determine what is the best way for you to wire the pick line for your driving-light relay. All you need is a switched circuit to hook up to. Use "negitive logic" if required.

gregp5 · August 2001

Just a note of thanks to the guys who answered my call for help in replacing the bulbs.
I followed your instructions and with nominal skin loss to my forearms was able to change them.
Your help is appreciated.

zporty · September 2001

I saw an F150 drive by me doing about 80 on the Interstate the other day with a hard tonneau cover I've never seen before. It was about 5-6" above the box for the first 5 1/2 feet of the box, then tapered down to the the tailgate. Also had what looked like a hinged and lockable trunk area maybe 2 by 4 feet into the cover on the back tapered end. I couldn't see any namebrand labels on it. Anyone know what I saw? It looked kinda interesting. Might want to check it.

ayrow · September 2001

Thinking about putting a small lift kit on my 2001 QC to give it a meaner look.

Have lots of questions though...

Anybody attempt this on a newer Dakota???? (2000-2001)

Body lift or suspension lift??

Only thinking an inch or two.

Would larger tires work without a lift?

Thanks,

Ayrow

http://www.ayrow.com/truck.html

victx · September 2001

I think you're only option on lifting your truck is a body lift. I believe there are no suspension lifts available for the 2000+ dakotas due to the rack & pinion steering. All the lift companies have been 'working' on a kit for the Dak since the 2000 model came out, no one knows if and when there will be something available.

I am running 32" (actually LT265/75/16) BFG AT KOs on my 2001 4x4 QC with no problems. There might be a tiny rub on the front/lower corner of the wheel well on the front tires. I can't tell because my lower valence is a little loose and has some play from getting stuck in the mud one time. The original tires that came with the truck, 265/70/16 translate to approximately a 31" tire.

mrjake · September 2001

I am running 32" BFG Mud-Terrains on my 2000 CC. There was only occasional rubbing when the tires where mounted on the factory wheels. Mostly just when backing out with the wheel at full turn. After getting new wheels that are only offset 1/2" out, the rubbing was constant and I had to zip off the inner tips of the plastic lower bumper valance since that is where the rubbing was occurring. No big deal, can't be seen unless your looking for it. Just remember the speedometer issues and the overhead computer being off due to the new tire diameter. It sure looks better though. I am also interested in hearing about lift possibilities, dakota would look real tough then.

victx · September 2001

I sent you a link for some pics with my tires, but the email was returned. Here's the link:

http://carrola.home.texas.net/dodge/PicsDec2000/PicsDec2000.html

mrjake, you got any pictures....I'd love to see a Dak with the MTs.

rockymtn4x4 · September 2001

Check out the following picture. It is from "dodgedakotas.com" out of their photo album. I do not know the owner but it is just what I am looking for in a lift. Apparently this truck has a 3" suspension and body lift.

http://www.dodgedakotas.com/albums/viewer/093.htm

Anybody recognize this truck? Would very much like to learn more about the particulars of this lift.

My compliments to the owner.

Rich

bobs5 · September 2001

check out the new "EVENTS" discussion.
KarenS "Dodge Dakota Owners: Events" Sep 24, 2001 8:16am

tcb741 · September 2001

I bought my 2001 quad Cab last month and love it! It has heated outside mirrors but no rear window defogger. Has anyone added one to their truck? I am hoping that maybe the wiring is already there and I could just plug into the harness. I assume that this is available from the dealer but haven't inquired yet.Thanks in advance for any information. This forum was really helpful in making the decision to buy the Dakota and has been an invaluable source of knowledge as I get to know my truck.

Tim in Atlanta

bpeebles · September 2001

(tcb741) Many of us carry a load, have a cap or other obstruction at the rear window. This is a a TRUCK! Learn to use the side mirrors for all driving and backup activity.

You will quickly find that the rear window is not needed... thus a defogger for a un-needed piece of glass is too.

My rear glass slides open to reveal the interior of the cargo bay. Besides... I rarely see any condensation on the rear glass anyway.
Pointing the center vents twards the rear glass should clear it very nicely. Remember to THOROUGHLY dry all carpeting with plenty of hot airflow. It is the moisture in the carpeting that evaporates and re-condenses on the interior glass. (Over 25 years of Vermont winters has taught me a trick or two)

If you REALLY want to add a defogger to the rear glass... you may need to install it yourself.

ahasher · October 2001

Ok I saved the pix of the application, but I cannot recall who here has it installed. I have been looking into this mod, and since K&N seems to not nave the application for my 4.7 QC, Mopar is the next in line. A couple of obvious questions please: Was it worth the $$ for some performance improvement? How does the 4.7 perform overall with this, since it's SOOOOO tied to the PCM? What about the PVC hose the stok box has?

Thanks for the update on the kit..

dodgetrukn · October 2001

Found my IAT connector, but could not find the sensor..says on the passenger side front intake. Can someone tell me where the sensor is..next to,,etc..gotta remove air hat to see it??
Was getting a bit dark and the wife yelling that dinner was cooked, had to run!
Will look again tomorrow..and location details may help my quickest install..besides
circulating my 'cooler'...Thanks in advance.knowing lots of guys here have them installed..
Ger

kwanderi · October 2001

The IAT sensor on the 4.7 is located on the top of the intake manifold by the throtle body on the drivers side.

dodgetrukn · October 2001

Duh..Had a brain freeze..focus focus focus...seen the connector..and...well...
appreciate the kick in the pants...Ger

96g11 · October 2001

I installed a performance auto accessories 3" body lift about 1 year ago. 2000 quad cab 4x2. I put some 32.115 tires on the stock rims and the truck looks just like a 4x4 (sans cost and complexity/weight of the 4x4 system that I don't need).
Install was easy, bout 6 hours but I have a well stocked garage. To hide the frame, a set of westin nurf bars will tuck up nicely to the body if you swap the mounting brackest front to rear and left to right, placing the front bracket between the body and top of the body lifting block.(just notch the now front bracket mountng hole about 1 inch to make them adjustable).
Fabtech Motor Sports makes a 3" suspension lift but you must buy new rims (16" with different backspacing to clear the brakes) and this adds to the total cost.

spike50 · October 2001

My defogger equipped solid rear window came in a package with the heated 6x9 mirrors. Maybe if your truck has one piece of the package it may be easy to get the other. I run with a tonneau top so I use all three mirrors.

tcb741 · October 2001

Thanks for the reply Spike, that is what I am hoping. I have the switch in the dash and the heated mirrors, but no grid on the rear glass. I am hoping the wiring harness is in place so I could just add the grid to the glass and plug it in. I plan to add a tonneau cover and have solid rear glass. My truck doesn't spend too many nights in the garage so the glass gets frosted a good bit in the winter, even here in Atlanta.

Tim

jhorl · October 2001

I have a 2000 QC 4x4 SLT and I do not have the upper console trip computer/MPG/temp/compass..etc Is it possible that for simplicity Dodge ran the wiring harness up into the roof liner anyway. If its just a matter of replacing the console and plugging in the computer I would do it but I'd rather not have to run a complete wiring harness. Thank You John

flyboy01 · October 2001

Have about 10K mi. now on my '01 4.7 Dak 4x w/ AWD option. SLT CCab, and I love it, not a single problem! Carry 1600# (wet) pop-up, cab-over camper in it, no sweat w/ truck's 1870# stock P/L package (bigger tires, stiffer springs, 3.92 diff., etc). 4.7 does very well (can't tell difference compared to 5.2/318 I drove for years in Gr. Cherokee) and gets 18mpg at 80 mph w/o camper, and 13 at 70 mph w/ camper, and handles grades well, but I'm wondering about helping it, at least, breathe better.

Anyone know about K&N, or equally good, induction for 4.7 yet? If so, how's it working? Noticable improvement? How about any other performance ideas that that are cost-effective and WON'T affect warranty?

Thanks & Happy Trails from the Crossroads of the West and Home of the 2002 Winter Olympics!

jhorl · October 2001

I installed the K&N air filter on my 2000 Quad 4.7
I forget the exact filter model but the one i got is for the 2001. The difference is there are three tabs on the filter which fit the housing better and create a more air tight fit. The model for the 2000 does not have the tabs and just lays flat in the housing. Cant say that I have seen a huge improvement in performance or MPG but it is the piece of mind knowing that I have one of the best filters protecting my engine. John

nortx01qc · October 2001

you probably told me before but ---- where did you get your reese hitch?

Thanks
Keith

bpeebles · October 2001

I was at NED (New England Dragway) this weekend to watch the ricers....or races. All 4-cylinder cars mostly Honda, Toys, Mitsi, Eagle...etc.

DODGE TOOK THE TOP SEVERAL SPOTS with a Reliant K-car doing 10.5Sec at 130MPH (the Ricers rarely bettered 13 seconds.)

Why am I telling you this in a DAKOTA forum...

There was a guy with a 4.7L dakota that has obviously been down the track a few times in the past. His ONLY upgrades were a drop-in K&N and a DYNOMAX 3inch catback. He said that the pull above 3000 RPM was noticably improved.

I asked him if he would start it up so I could hear it. I was pleased that it WAS NOT extremely loud.

victx · October 2001

I bought the hitch @ www.weathers.com. The hitch I bought was the hidden hitch model 44018. Good price, excellent customer service.

BTW, I've added a couple of new pics to my website and hope to put more up in the next week or so.

namfflow · October 2001

After munching the front end of my new 01 Dakota I decided it wouldn't hurt to put on of these thing on. Any ideas for a good strong Chrome 1 pieve design? I am wanting to protect the grill and front end for minor mishaps

Is the Mopar accessories one any good? Any other ideas? Westin has some nice ones but not in Chrome for the Dak.

kruzer · November 2001

I took the plunge with a Cat-Back system. Went with the Magnaflow. Very impressed with the quality and sound. Didn't want obnoxious-loud and got a really nice tone. Especially inside the cabin.

BTW. If you are in the Metro Atl area, "Lords" is the place to go. A couple bucks more than the cheapest, but worth it!

Travis

ritzoid · November 2001

I've got a 2001 QC 4.7, 2wd, 5sp with about 12k miles and I just installed a k&n filter (33-2175). Here's what I've noticed -- a little more rumble in the exhaust tone and, in the past two tanks of gas, slightly better than a one mpg increase in mileage. (Now better than 19 mpg.) I will continue to monitor the gas mileage; but, I've been pleasantly surprised with the outcome thus far. Regards, Steve

slickwilliedj · November 2001

did you just chg the element or did you install the fuel injection model kit? what did you pay? and how long to install?

ritzoid · November 2001

slickwilliedj, The part that I installed is the air filter element replacement. It's a drop in replacement for the paper filter element. It took all of about five minutes to swap out the old, install the (included) adhesive-backed air box gasket, drop in the new element, and close the box back up. The cost was $48. Regards, Steve

ahasher · November 2001

I put the K&N finter on my 4.7 over a year and a half ago and the box only had the filter. I have seen comments about airbox seals and these filters, so can U tell me what the "adhesive-backed air box gasket" is? Does it help the airbox seal on the K&N?

ritzoid · November 2001

The gasket was new to me, too. I installed a k&n filter in my Subaru a couple of years ago and there was not a gasket included. My suspicion is that the gasket provides a better seal on the air box. It's nothing more than a foam rectangle with a peel&stick backing that fits around the inside of the air box perimeter. Regards, Steve

jbardram · November 2001

Seems like the 4.7 filter box has a pretty good seal built into the design...

iowabigguy · November 2001

Well my factory fog lamp lenses are fractured in star like patterns from gravel impact and my drivers side bulb has burnt out. I am considering a aftermarket lamp and would like to know what worked for YOU. I would like something engineered for the Dakota and I will use the existing wiring/switch to either power the lights directly or to control a relay if the power requirements exceed the capability if the factory wiring. I am also leaning toward driving lamps rather than fog lamps. I realize the low mounting is not optimal however I need something to reach out on those darknights on 2 lane blacktop roads. Bambi is just waiting to run into my Quad again. Rick

PS
As an aside several weeks after I got my Quad a large Buck ran into the drivers side of the bed and put in some rather large but shallow depressions into the metal. We had some hail damage on our other cars this summer that we had repaired using the paintless dent repair process. I was so impressed with the results I allowed them to work on my Quad. It is just short of amazing how they manage to restore the metal to its original shape with absolutely no external indication it was repaired. So now that my Quad has been repaired it has turned into a "deer magnet" again. Rick

enfurio · November 2001

Last weekend I put a complete set of X-pel headlamp film on the front end of my QC. There are 8 pcs in the kit (2 headlamp, 2 sidemarker, 2 turn signal and 2 fog light) and they are cut to fit perfectly. The price was around $30 through Cabela's, but I've seen them at other on-line stores. The film is a wet application, adhesive backed, optically transparent 40 mil thick "sticker" that protects your expensive lighting from those damn gravel trains. It was pretty easy to put them on and they appear super tough and impact resistant, I highly recommend such cheap and easy protection.

Now I just have to figure out how to keep stone chips off of my grille and hood leading edge. Has anybody out there installed a full or half bra? The half bra looks OK and appears to protect the areas that usually get the most damage. What about bug/stone guards? I am looking at the EGR wraparound right now and I think it looks the best. Any experience would be appreciated.

jl130661 · November 2001

any recomendations for rubber/plastic all weather floormats and waterproof seatcovers? i like the looks of husky and catch-all floormats and duragear seat covers in pics but want feedback before online purchase. anyone suggest another brand worth looking at?

ja812 · November 2001

jl130661-I purchased the catch-all floor mats and bought some throw rugs from kmart to place on top of them....also bought the Mopar seat covers and like them alot although it took a little getting use to at first

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