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Comments
I have the silver also. It looks great! A nice color choice by DC for the 2001 model!
James
Does any one know what the dealer is required to fix when it comes to a paint job?
Here is another idea:
Home Depot & other HW stores sell a flexible power-driver (bitholder) extension, for around $10. I use this attachment whenever I need to drive screws or drill in cramped spaces.
Of course, you will need a bitholder-compatible drillbit.
Good luck,
/BOSI
I
Thanks for the reminder!! I would have never thought of the 600 miles going against the warranty!
I will remind the dealer of that today, thanks!
The truck is leaving Oregon for Washington today, but they promised an older gentleman is driving it. Sure! : )
Brian
Another very good reason to run with lights on is those drivers who have a silver, dark/light blue, or gray vehicle. Picture this: Rainy, overcast day, asphalt road, and car spray added to the rain. If you drive one of the vehicles colored as above YOU ARE INVISIBLE!!! Look at the next car of your color coming toward you out of the mist. See how difficult it is to see them; now add the headlights ....... BIG DIFFERENCE!
Canada made daytime running lights mandatory a cpl years ago but, unless our NHTSA or some other federal office gets into it, Detroit iron seldom has non-MANDATED safety features.
Just a suggestion BUT, don't be invisible out there folks, ESPECIALLY if you are driving a QC (silver/gray/blue). Would like to see many more of them on the road, not in wrecking yards.
Ron
Bookitty
On my next day off, I'll install the Splash Guards and let you know easy/difficult it was.
THANKS AGAIN!
GATOR72
The more visible you are, the better your chances of avoiding an accident.
There is ANOTHER benefit of using your headlights during the daytime. If you're driving into the sun, you are just a sillouhette to the driver behind you; making it difficult to judge their distance from your rear-end. BUT, if your headlights are on, your TAIL lights are ALSO on - thus helping the driver behind you judge their distance from your rear-end. I don't know if I explained it the right way. But, I think you get my drift.
GATOR72
Just wanted to share a couple problems I have
had with my 2000 QC. Developed a leak in the cab.
Dealers body shop had it for a week .They said
it was splash shields around the speakers in front doors which explains radio shorting out when it rains.Well any way they fixed the leak
and replaced carpet.Now speakers sound like crap.
I have the infinite system. Sounded great before.
It goes back on Thursday. Anybody with similar problem? Thanks Leigh
if you change gears. 3.92's would be easy as it's a
factory ratio. 4.10's might be a bit more
difficult to find. I have not researched what
ratios are available for the Dak's diff. There are
only a few bearings,crush sleeves, and shims that
you would have to use new on this change. It is
definatly a no beer job as, personally I would not
want the alcohol to impair my consentration. The
swap is time consuming if you have not worked on
rear ends before, ( no, I mean differentials) and
does require a few specialized tools. It is not
impossible for the backyard mechanic to do though.
AMEND1- I have heard good things about Auburn,
although nobody I no has done this application. the
job description for OHC_BABY above would apply
here too. I have done Diffs before and while slow
going at home, not impossibly or really very
difficult. The important things are to make sure
your mesh patterns are right and setting backlash
which may take several assembly/disassembly cycles
In Atlanta
You had me for a second!! LOL
First, the window molding on the left rear door isn't seated properly. Should be simple to fix.
Second, the 4.7 is too damn strong! I have to drive in fairly heavy traffic to and from work (10 miles each way) and I have to feather the gas the whole way. I just want to romp on the accelerator and feel the power!
Love this truck so far.
Bookitty - I ordered an A.R.E. and used the internet coupon, thanks.
I haven't discovered any major flaws yet, and I wanted to thank everyone who has posted here about their experiences. It certainly helps to have an idea of what to look for and what to expect.
The Kelly Blue Book (Retail) value for the truck is $25,195. Trade in is approximately $21,000. I am asking $24,000.
The truck is in Knoxville, Tennessee. If you, or anyone you know is interested in this truck please send me an email.
grokg@mindspring.com
grokg@btinternet.com
Bummed,
grokg
Is it necessary on modern trucks?
If you did, was it dealer installed or a do-it-yourself project.
Thanks
When should the first oil and oil filter be changed?
The manual seems to indicate 7500 miles.
I have a 24 month easy care maintenance plan which is for 6 month, 6k miles,which covers oil & filter change. Having this maintenance plan, I assume the first change will be at the 6 month mark.
Washing and waxing:
How long should one wait before attempting this?
Does the paint need to cure for awhile?
Which product do you use for washing?
Which wax do you use?
I am looking for a one application product for waxing.
200 miles now and loving life!
Please enter your name and info within the "Meet Your Members" topic if you have not already done so. Again, happy motoring.
Bookitty
BOB- it is a comprehensive service manual used by the technicians to repair your truck. It is written by the factory and can be ordered by anyone. I don't remember the Phone #, but your sevice/parts dept. should have it. for 2001 ist is actully a BTB (bug teal book) and runs $105. It is worth every penny.
OIL- Every person on this board has their own opinion on this one, here's mine. I change the oil at 500mi,1000mi,2000mi and every 2k after that. New motors have a surprising amount of contaminants in them ranging from assembly lubes, breaking oils, machining oils,moisture,and sometimes enven some sand left from the casting process if the block wasn't compleatly cleaned. I feel that frequent oil changes are the cheapest insurance against engine failure. I use 5w-30 dino oil as that is what this engine was designed around. Many others prefer synthetic and it has it's advantages, but should NOT be used for the first..maybe 3k mi..as it prevents rings and bearings from seating properly. Unless you fit into the extended service schedule perfectlyu, I would not go more than 3mos/3k mi std.
WAX- Youshould wait a couple months before waxing to allow the paint to fully cure ( easy to say, though to do) Any major brand of high Carnuba content wax is the best for the finish. I prefer Meguire's pro line (tan bottles) or Zymiol.
OOPS! sorry for the long posting, once I start going....
My last car had undercoating, and seemed to rust beneath the coating. Actually hid any indication of rust until it was really bad.
I will call the service manager and see what response is given about the first oil change.
As this is my first brand new vehicle, I don't want to do anything which will void the warranty.
Which brand of oil do you use?
Did you stay with the factory oil filter or use an aftermarket one?
After about 12K miles, my transmission started burping fluid out of the fill tube onto the motor. This made my travels very smokey & smelly. After the second trip to the service dept, I fianlly convinced them it may be related to the recall on the transmission vent hose. Yes, I'm one of the lucky 20,333 drivers. The dealership replaced the faulty hose.
What bothers me is a comment one of the service men said over the phone. He said replacing the hose may not fix the problem. RED FLAG TIME!!! I picked the truck up tonight only after many repeated assurances that the problem was 100% fixed because the kinked vent hose was now replaced. The service man I spoke with over the phone also said it was fixed.
Posting #984 refers to a similar problem I have/had. Are there other reasons my trans fluid would be burping out of the fill tube?
Since flammable transmission fluid and hot manifolds don't necessarily go well together, I am still very concerned.
Has anyone else had similar problems?
Sorry for the long post length.
Thanks, Paul
Undercoating is usually a thick, rubbery-or-greasy coating that deadens sound. Rust-preventions is secondary. Years ago, this was used to reduce the road-noise that is heard from inside the vehicle.
Rustproofing is associcated with drilling holes and inserting a 'wand' to apply waxy or oily gunk inside the doors, fenders and other enclosed areas.
Modern vehicles have much, MUCH better corrosion protection from the factory. Instead of a 3-year lifespan in Vermont, modern vehicles go almost 8 winters before showing signs of rust-holes.
I know some people that get an oil-undercoating in the fall then drive on dirt roads to produce a nice-greasy coating. It looks aweful and your pants get dirty as you get in/out of the vehicle... but it seems to provide some protection from the road-salt that is used here in VT.
I would never, ever suggest rustproofing......the manufacturer warrants the paint. These packages that the dealer tries to tack on at the end of the deal are basically worthless....except for the undercoating. It is almost pure profit for a dealer and generally they charge $500 for the "sealant package" of which all items are unecessary.
Undercoating is a personal preference and does no damage to the bottom of your vehicle. If anything, it protects it a little bit more from rocks, gravel, etc.
In my mind I was thinking rustproofing.
Who says an old dog can't learn new tricks.
16 mpg for around town driving.
Thanks
Jim H
You do have to spend time with it to get how its laid out. 90% of what you want to know is in there but there's no substitute for this owner's group to bounce ideas / questions off of to benefit from their experiences.
Brian
Anybody have a clue? Thanks!!!
Brian
Bookitty