Marshall, the key word here seems to be agreement. Your deposit carries with it, "good faith." The dealer accepted the deposit, signed an agreement, and any problem he may face is not with you, but with the manufacturer. This sounds more like someone in the dealership made a deal that the sales manager and/or owner is not happy to conclude. Rather than hire a lawyer, I would approach a consumer advocate agency (there are plenty in South FL) and let them deal with it. But first, I would inform the dealer that this is the direction you are taking. In the meantime, check with other dealers in the area and also call Daimler/Chrysler Customer Service (800-992-1997) to confirm this "price increase." Car dealers enjoy a seamy reputation which they have gotten the old fashioned way; They've earned it! Good luck and keep us "posted": We care.
It sounds like the molded splash guards are working well for you. Does your truck have the factory wheel well moldings? does the shape of the splash guards conform well to the existing moldings? Thanks, JimT
Also, you are right-on about that dealer! The price on my 01 increased during order time and dealer absorbed increase without question. This was a dealership in Ft. Lauderdale, FL area.
Does anyone have any opinion on buying extended warranties on the 4.7 QC. I have been thinking about it but don't know if I should. In the past ( years ago ) I had bad luck with extended warranties. Probably because of the dealers I had to deal with. The one I'm thinking about getting is the 5/75 powertrain with $100. deductable. The cost is $675. Anybody have any comments. Thanks.
My Quad sport 4.7, Pat. Blue, 4x4, leather, power everything, limited slip rear diff, 4-wheel anti lock brakes, tow package, HD service package, skid plates, rear defrost, . . . everything but the 3.92 ratio . . . will be here soon (ordered on the 14th of Feb. built on the 6th March) . . . I live in Wisconsin and it was shipped yesterday from Mich. by truck. I got Invoice plus rebates . . . total price with tax and title $26400 . . . MSRP was over $31000! I believe I got a good deal! Wish me luck when I take delivery!! Hopefully their were no disgruntled factory workers when my truck went through the line!!!
Danny, look into some aftermarket extended warranty programs as well. You can research them on the Internet. All extended warranties are nothing more than an insurance policy. Like an insurance policy, one hopes not to use it. The price you mentioned seems a bit high considering that it protects only the powertrain. Some others extend protection to just about anything but might carry a higher deductible. I have a 7 year 75K maximum care bumper to bumper with a $100.00 deductible. It is a D/C product and cost me $700.00. My wife obtained the same deal on her 4Runner by showing the dealer my agreement (my deal was actually special because of some problems encountered at the dealership). But, just like anything else, it is negotiable. I think that it is a good thing to have, and it does offer peace of mind. However Danny it is something else to shop for the best deal. General Electric and other reliable long term companies offer extended automobile/truck warranties on a third party basis.
Stick the $675 in a savings account and a couple hundered more and let it sit . . . if any thing goes wrong you have the money there earing interest to use for repairs. After 36000 mile warranty is up take your truck to someone other than the dealer to fix it will be much cheaper! That 36000 is enough for anything major to wrong . . . like the TRANNY!! or the Transfer Case . . . Past that 36000 you probably wont have many problems!! TAKE THE CHANCE . . . I was sorry when I got an extended warranty on my NEON and never had to use it!!!
Yes. My truck came with the wheel flares "wheel well moldings" and I had the dealer throw in the deluxe splash guards and wheel locks... but in retropsect I should have told them to throw in the BOB too. The wheel flares do have a gap around the body, it's thin on the top, but larger where the flare makes the turn around the wheel. My Dad suggested to fill in the gap with silicone and a Dodge mechanic also said not a bad idea, but probably not necessary, but the rain does get down there. The splash guards fit fine against the wheel flares and I was happy not be the one to be drilling the five holes each to install them ;j] I was thinking of "highlighting" the ram's heads on the splash guards with a little color, They're not terribly noticeable from below.
yi 2001 4x2 q/c 355 rear end with ltd 3600miles. some posts ago some of u may be familar with this problem...... seems the right rear axle is off set farther then the left.(thus it protrudes farther out of the fender wells) also the left front end sits lower then right. this passed monday i had takin the truck to the dealer for the 3 rd time and finally was able to meet with zone factory rep and service mng. after a long talk and a alot of explaining they agreed to put the truck on a frame machine to take some measurements off the frame. prior to this i had takin the truck to a aliginment shop for a second opinion+ whom i'm friends with the owner. he spent about an hr looking the truck over tring to find the problem. he agreed there's a prob the rear end is offset and the truck is leaning but was unable to pin point the exact problem. he'ssays the truck is not square and i should req the specs from the dealer for the truck and have them do a alignment and compare the 2 and get a copy. monday service mng wanted the frame measured first so i agreed.turns out the right rear is sitting higher then the left thus pushing the left front down. body guy says its off by 5mm on the right and 1mm on the left.how this happened i don't know! a different body shop adv me that sometimes when the trucks are loaded on the carriers the drivers over torque the chasis thus actually tweaking the frame causing this prob?? now the service manager has to forward the measurements to the dist manager for d/c then he has to forwarded it to d/c enginering dept to see want they want to do. body guy says its a simple adjustment but i'm concerned ......... any opinions on what i should do,,, also if you've exp a similar prob info and out come would be great... thanks! slick.
i am still undecided on a tonneau cover though. i like the roll n lock, but not the locking bar that drills into the tailgate, the pace edwards is good, but it drills into the bed rails & has no way to lock the tailgate, the a.r.e. covers are great, but it takes 2 people to remove it. looking for input on the covers ???
Thanks everyone for the good advice. It is great knowing that I have some good people to help me through this experience of buying a new Quad Cab. I have found another Dodge dealer about 60 miles up the road and gave him a list of all the same options I had signed the agreement with here in Fort Myers and he has offered me a real $100 over invoice and says he will stick to it. I am going up Saturday to sign the deal and get it ordered. I was about to think maybe it just wasn't meant for me to buy a Dodge, I have been a Ford man all my life but after several test drives in the Quad Cab with the 4.7 I was lured in. I hope I won't be disapointed Thanks for all the support.
The following web page has a lot of good information about Extended Warranties, especially the differences between dealer warranties and aftermarket warranties:
i agree, the advance cover is the path i was heading down also. my question is, does it lock the tailgate & how if it does ?? i'm calling them today to find out a few more details !!! thanks !!!!!!!11
Hi all. I ordered my flame red 4.7l/5spd/4x2/lsd/sport with T&H/HD service pkg on 06 Feb and took delivery yesterday. Thanks to everyone for the advice in this group -- the comments here helped solidify my decision to go with the manual transmission. It is really sweet. I told my kids (4 and 6) that we should call the truck "Clifford" - the big red Dodge. :-)Happy Motoring.
I will check out some of the links on the extended warranty. I appreciate all the help and advice I get on this site. Its great to have a place like this.
I wonder if this is the same manufacturer of Mopar's multi-panel folding cover. The two panel cover seems like a smart idea similar to the cover used on the Ford Sporttrac. However, I'd be curious to learn how well it keeps out the water, as I understand the mult-panel cover is not very waterproof.
I love the gullwing cover on my QC, especially b/c the gullwing is very convenient for day-to-day use, it is water/weather proof, and is as secure as these things get. Of course, the Advance Cover would be more convenient for those who routinely carry large items in their bed.
I created a segmented and compartmentalized area under each gullwing and the main cover using some wood and two wire baskets which has allowed me to store smaller items like briefcases, gym bags, etc. under each gullwing while leaving room for larger items under the main cover. The bed extender also further helps to compartmentalize the main section of the bed from the gullwings.
I paid just over $800.00 for mine due to a discount from the dealer (bought it at the saleman's "cost"). The 3rd party shops I spoke with about covers (Roll-N-Lock, ARE, etc.) thought that was a pretty good price, and since the actual manufacturer of the gullwing currently doesn't sell it through any channel other than Mopar, I decided to go with it. Like I said, it suits my needs perfectly. But I also like the idea of the 2 panel Advance Cover, as long as it is fairly weatherproof and can lock the tailgate. Otherwise, I guess you'd need to install a Pop-N-Lock type product to lock the tailgate.
Once you've ordered a QC through a dealer, is it possible to track the status of the turck? Can you contact the manufacturiing site, and get an estimate on when the truck will be finished and shipped. Or do you have to rely on the dealer and call him/her after a month or so? Is it possible to check the status of the truck on-line?
Just ordered (well, a week ago anyway) a 01 flame red/silver 4x4 QC 4.7 auto lsd SLT plus leather etc etc.. I've enjoyed lurking here for a couple of weeks, now that I've ordered I decided to say hello. This is my first American vehicle in 15 yrs and I really hope it's half as reliable as my foreign cars were. This thing sells itself, it's PERFECT for a family man do it yourselfer. I saw a display for the fold a cover (which I plan on getting) and it locks the tailgate with a small handle that screws into the top inside of the tailgate. Unfortunately this handle seems like it would interfere with sliding things on and off the truck; I may look into wing nuts or something so I can quickly remove the offending handle when I need to. brake4me, if you have a VON (vehicle order #??) you CAN track the progress of your vehicle. It's been posted in these forums somewhere along with the codes that tell you what stage your vehicle is at in the process. PS, The durango plant is about a mile from me, so managed to order the QC using a DC employee's friend and family discount, 2% under invoice. Gotta like that!!
You should be very happy with your QC. This is my 1st Dodge after driving Ford trucks for about 20 years. I have a Medium Bronze QC SLT+ and am about 4 miles from the Darango plant. I removed all the decals and badges except the Rams Head on the hood and have a set of black Westen step bars. So I should see you around Newark in a month or two.
Back on windows and the "drumming" - Since I have a solid rear window with the defrost wiring my only option to try and get the summer heat out was to run through every combination of window adjustment but I always had the drumming problem. That is one reason why your sunroof looks so appealing. I also like the looks of it.
Why don't you ask the installer if he'd be willing to do prearranged one-day jobs. If so, post the name and number. I'm thinking that some of us wouldn't mind driving there, get one installed, and then staying in the area for some R&R overnight before coming home.
On the bed cover - I have a vinyl TekStyles cover and like it because I can pull it loose to load x-mas trees, rototillers, furniture, motorcycle parts, etc. Only problem I have is trying to snap it back on the frame in the winter. I've had to leave an electric hair dryer running inside the partially covered bed to warm up the vinyl until I could stretch it enough to finishing snapping.
You'll only see me if the slavedrivers I work for let me out of my cage, and that doesn't happen too much! I'll be on the lookout for you, might be nice to grab a brewski sometime with a fellow QC owner; only thing I see around here are Durangos. I guess that kinda figures, though...
I installed two new products on my QC today. First, after much deliberation, I finally decided to replace my front & rear Ventvisors with Weatherflectors. While they don't look as aggressive as the Ventvisors, the Weatherflectors are arguably sleeker looking. In any event, the Weatherflectors definitely solved the only complaint I had about the Ventvisors -- the extended blindspot of the A pillar caused by the Ventvisors' dark tint. Since the Weatherflectors have a lighter tint, I can now see better around corners, etc. The only thing I'm worried about is that the rear edge of the front window sort of makes contact with the rear part of the Weatherflector when the window rolls up (unlike Ventvisors, Weatherflectors are installed inside the window channel). This contact spot is bevelled and the windows have gone up with no problem thus far. But if the Weatherflectors ever become loose while the windows are down, I could see a potential clash when rolling the windows back up. Only time will tell.
I also bought a Jet Stage II chip which is allegedly designed to work with the cold air induction system and catback system I have on my 5.9L engine. Since Performanceproducts.com has a 30 day return policy, I figured I have nothing to lose. The chip took about 1 min. to install. First I tried it with the remaining few gallons of 87 octane gas I had in the tank to see if it would cause the engine to ping. Suprisingly, it didn't, even under WOT conditions. I then filled up with 93 octane gas to see if I felt any performance gains. Unfortuately, there was too much traffic this afternoon to really put the chip to the test again. But I guess I have 29 more days to see if this thing really works and is worth the $$ I paid for the supposed 18 hp gain I'm supposed to get. I'll keep ya'll posted. Have a good weekend!!
hi i took delivery of my 01 qc slt+ 4.7 auto in agust and had a remote starter put in in dec .it worked fine untill it got to be below 20 out then the check engine light came on. when i took it to the dealer they said [check for D.T.Cs P1698 no CCD message from T.C.M and at cold start up there is no communication between P.C.M and T.C.M for temp setting].the starter is a VALET #552T if any one knows what this means it would be a big help since the dealer charged me 1hr labor saying the problem was the starters fault and not covered under warrenty.anyway the truck has been great so far. i have 3 kids and theres plenty of room.at 6500 it gets 15 mpg mixed driving.only other problem was 2 lines on rear defro didnt work that was an easy fix, and dealer put baffel in the oil fill.has any one tried the wood dash kits from ebay yet? how do they look?.thanks p.s. when did dodge get so cheap they couldnt put a light under the hood or V8 emblems on the fender!
I can't answer your questions re: the remote starter. But regarding the light under the hood, my 2000 QC SLT+ 5.9L does have a light under the hood. You might check with other '01 4.7 owners to see if they have one too. It could be that DC owes you one!
I couldnt believe it either!! When I opened the hood and there was no light I thought they had forgotten to put it in. I looked in the manual and there is no mention of it. Is there any aftermarket lights that can be put in??
Regarding my evaluation of the Stage II chip thus far using my "butt dyno", I can't say I'm overly impressed. I was hoping to get better response in those WOT situations at merging speeds (ie. from 35 mph to 70 mph) but I can't honestly say there's much of an improvement. My off-the-line performance is really good, but that's always been the case. I also notice more of a surge in torque around the 3000 to 4000 rpm range and from 70 mph + speeds, but I started noticing that after I installed my Gibson catback, so I can't necessarily say the chip has contributed to or enhanced that performance aspect.
The things I have noticed are: 1) for some reason, I'm getting slightly better gas mileage on my 1st tank of gas using the chip (but I've only gone through 1/4 of a tank); and 2) my transmission upshifts are slightly more delayed --which is my preference. With respect to the transmission, I've been advised by Ron Wong on the DML that I may have reset my PCM while installing the chip, which could account for the change in the shift pattern.
I figure I'll go through 2 tanks of gas on the chip and evaluate the overall results, then go 1 tank without and see if I can feel any difference. I'll keep you posted.
I hate to keep asking dumb questions, but in my continuing effort to find an honest Dodge dealer in South Florida, I thought I had found ond in Sarasota, the offer sounded good over the phone but when they wrote it all up they had the two following charges that I do not get a sensible answer to. Listed under FUNDS: Code A42 PPA=$160, and Code T42 PPA =$300, none of the other dealers tried to shaft me with these charges, they had other ways. Does anyone know of an honest Dodge dealer in the state of Florida that will give anyone a good honest deal without trying to shaft them when they write everything up?? I am about to give up and go back to Ford.
Marshall, those I believe are the infamous advertising (regional and national) that Dodge tacks onto the invoice to make the customer pay for suffering through advertisements and mailers. To my knowledge, they do not constitute an illegal endeavor only an amoral act. I believe that they are explained within the Edmunds' site when you look at invoices for new vehicles. I'm not certain as to what the codes are, but I believe that is what they average out to be in dollar cost (geographical areas are priced differently). As far as "legitimate", they are that, but the dealer representative should be able to clearly define what these codes and costs indicate. I, along with most others paid them, as they are imprinted upon the invoice. I also believe that other manufacturers have these costs buried within the invoice as well. Don't be upset, check it out and have it clarified.
I have a 2001 quad cab W/ 4.7L and 5-spd. manual. Not that I need it but should the shift light arrow come on that is located in the middle of the tach. when it is time to shift? The owners manual alluded that it is not used on every model. Also what is a good break-in procedure for a new engine. The owners manual was rather vague. Thanks
I have a loaded 01 and it does not have a light under the hood either. i have to suspect that it was discontinued for the 01s. When I first noticed it back in August, I thought 'gyp', but upon reflection, I realize that the lights on all my previous trucks have never been satisfactory. Not enough power or direction. I have a magnetic base light that I got from Wal-Mart for $5. It is in the camping section and is great. It rides in the bed where I use it most and can be put under the hood if needed. Its a lot more powerful than any factory unit and more functional.
On the mud flaps, the low cost mud flaps ($13)to me seem to fit the flare pkg better and they are hte ones that have the ram's head in different colors. Probably most dealers keep the silver in stock, which will look good on many applications, but they are also available in many other colors. I could have gotten the emblem in bronze thru my dealer, if I had wanted. Everyone is different, but I love the look with the flat flaps better than the molded flaps.
I only have about 600 miles on my truck but notice that when driving around 60 the engine is running about 2000 rpms. Once I get up to 65 it will shift to about 1600-1700. Is this normal?? The only reason I ask because it feels like the engine wants to shift at 60. BTW it is an auto 4x4 if it makes a difference.
I don't know what your final drive ratio is (3.55 or 3.92), but that RPM seems relatively high at 60 MPH unless it is in a gear other than the overdrive gear. The 1600 @ 65 MPH seems on the other hand to be fairly low. Are you reading your tachometer correctly, or is it eratic in some way? The other situation would indicate that it wants to shift into overdrive @ 60 and for some reason or another it fails to do so. You didn't mention if you were cruising on relatively flat terrain and doing so for a reasonable amount of time to allow the transmission to engage overdrive.
I have 3:55 gears T/H package..I do mostly city driving but I went out tonight an paid better attention to the tach and it looks like when Im at 65 Im running 1800 rpms. I did notice however that on the expressway it does shift a lot sooner than on a city/country road. The lower gears are very smooth. What do you think??
TD, after re-reading your post, I noticed that you have only 600 miles logged on your odometer. In addition, your second tachometer readings are in synch with your drive train. I have the same drive train with the exception that I have a 5 speed manual. Remembering prior postings, the multispeed automatic has a double faced learning curve associated with it. The on board computer is trying to learn and read the operator, while the operator is trying to get better acquainted with this particular transmission. Next time you are traveling on the highway @ 65MPH and the tachometer is reading around 1800 RPM (in cruise if available) drift down to 60 MPH and the tachometer should drop RPM. This should be on relatively flat terrain, as uphill movement would cause the transmission to demand more power (RPM) from the engine. I personally feel that all is well and that there is no problem. If you are not satisfied, and feel uncomfortable with the truck, take it in for service and insist that you accompany the technician on the test ride.
That is my only concern about the engine..other than that it is a very smooth machine. I wll wait until I get more miles looged to see if there is a problem. I think once the computer is done learning it will be better..
I was checking out everything under the hood and noticed a cable with some kind of connector on the end of it. It was just hanging near the electrical fuse box uner the hood. It had grease smeared on the end of it and I cant figure out what its for. I figured Id ask here before calling the dealer. Any ideas??
Posted a message a while back about the whine in the rear. What I have found is it has nothing to do with being in 2X or 4X or road surface. I've tried putting the trans in neutral and rolling at 40MPH and I still get the whine. So it is either the axle or the tires.
I saw in Dakota Problems, someone suggested it is in the axle.
As far as the noise in the front I have noticed it is getting worse. I agree with someone elses analogy that it sounds like ball joints popping.
Someone said that the dealer was replacing the stailizer bar bushings. Has anyone heard what the results of that were.
I am takin ghte Quad in for the first time for repairs. The passenger side rear door weather stripping came off. The other thing is a very noticeable shudder when braking. The front end of the truck kinda shimmies up and down when coming to a stop. Seems to be warped rotors or something. I thought it might have been the tires but I just replaced them with new ones and it still does it. Anyone else have this problem with their Quad??
i have similar problem with front end. however it seems to come and go. had takin truck to a guy who does nothing but suspension but the truck refused to make the noise for him. he said depending on the weather humid day or dry day could be a result of the noise. i'm going to try to swing buy his shop one day when the noise is active again so he can try and pin point it.having some other issues as well with mine as you might have read in previous posts.left front sits lower, rear axle offset..
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Your deposit carries with it, "good faith." The dealer accepted the deposit, signed an agreement, and any problem he may face is not with you, but with the manufacturer. This sounds more like someone in the dealership made a deal that the sales manager and/or owner is not happy to conclude. Rather than hire a lawyer, I would approach a consumer advocate agency (there are plenty in South FL) and let them deal with it. But first, I would inform the dealer that this is the direction you are taking. In the meantime, check with other dealers in the area and also call Daimler/Chrysler Customer Service (800-992-1997) to confirm this "price increase." Car dealers enjoy a seamy reputation which they have gotten the old fashioned way; They've earned it! Good luck and keep us "posted": We care.
Bookitty
Also, you are right-on about that dealer! The price on my 01 increased during order time and dealer absorbed increase without question. This was a dealership in Ft. Lauderdale, FL area.
I have been thinking about it but don't know if I should. In the past ( years ago )
I had bad luck with extended warranties. Probably because of the dealers I had to deal with.
The one I'm thinking about getting is the 5/75 powertrain with $100. deductable. The cost is $675. Anybody have any comments. Thanks.
encountered at the dealership). But, just like anything else, it is negotiable. I think that it is a good thing to have, and it does offer peace of mind. However Danny it is something else to shop for the best deal. General Electric and other reliable long term companies offer extended automobile/truck warranties on a third party basis.
Bookitty
That 36000 is enough for anything major to wrong . . . like the TRANNY!! or the Transfer Case . . . Past that 36000 you probably wont have many problems!! TAKE THE CHANCE . . . I was sorry when I got an extended warranty on my NEON and never had to use it!!!
Bookitty
The wheel flares do have a gap around the body, it's thin on the top, but larger where the flare makes the turn around the wheel. My Dad suggested to fill in the gap with silicone and a Dodge mechanic also said not a bad idea, but probably not necessary, but the rain does get down there. The splash guards fit fine against the wheel flares and I was happy not be the one to be drilling the five holes each to install them ;j]
I was thinking of "highlighting" the ram's heads on the splash guards with a little color, They're not terribly noticeable from below.
this problem...... seems the right rear axle is off set farther then the left.(thus it protrudes farther out
of the fender wells) also the left front end sits lower then right. this passed monday i had takin the
truck to the dealer for the 3 rd time and finally was able to meet with zone factory rep and service
mng. after a long talk and a alot of explaining they agreed to put the truck on a frame machine to
take some measurements off the frame. prior to this i had takin the truck to a aliginment shop for a
second opinion+ whom i'm friends with the owner. he spent about an hr looking the truck over tring
to find the problem. he agreed there's a prob the rear end is offset and the truck is leaning but was
unable to pin point the exact problem. he'ssays the truck is not square and i should req the specs
from the dealer for the truck and have them do a alignment and compare the 2 and get a copy.
monday service mng wanted the frame measured first so i agreed.turns out the right rear is sitting
higher then the left thus pushing the left front down. body guy says its off by 5mm on the right and
1mm on the left.how this happened i don't know! a different body shop adv me that sometimes
when the trucks are loaded on the carriers the drivers over torque the chasis thus actually tweaking
the frame causing this prob?? now the service manager has to forward the measurements to the
dist manager for d/c then he has to forwarded it to d/c enginering dept to see want they want to do.
body guy says its a simple adjustment but i'm concerned ......... any opinions on what i should do,,,
also if you've exp a similar prob info and out come would be great... thanks! slick.
i like the roll n lock, but not the locking bar that drills into the tailgate, the pace edwards is good, but it drills into the bed rails & has no way to lock the tailgate, the a.r.e. covers are great, but it takes 2 people to remove it.
looking for input on the covers ???
thanks,
tom !!!!11
Thanks for all the support.
I, too, had trouble deciding on a cover for my bed.
I found something that seems like the perfect solution. It is called the Advance Cover.
Check it out here:
http://www.advancecover.com/2fold.htm
http://www.carbuyingtips.com/warranty.htm
i agree, the advance cover is the path i was heading down also. my question is, does it lock the tailgate & how if it does ?? i'm calling them today to find out a few more details !!!
thanks !!!!!!!11
tom !!!!!!!!!11
I love the gullwing cover on my QC, especially b/c the gullwing is very convenient for day-to-day use, it is water/weather proof, and is as secure as these things get. Of course, the Advance Cover would be more convenient for those who routinely carry large items in their bed.
I created a segmented and compartmentalized area under each gullwing and the main cover using some wood and two wire baskets which has allowed me to store smaller items like briefcases, gym bags, etc. under each gullwing while leaving room for larger items under the main cover. The bed extender also further helps to compartmentalize the main section of the bed from the gullwings.
Just my $0.02
the gullwing cover does seem to be the most convenient of any hard cover I have researched so far. My dealer is set on $960.00 for it though.
THANKS,
TOM !!!!!!!!!1
I've enjoyed lurking here for a couple of weeks, now that I've ordered I decided to say hello. This is my first American vehicle in 15 yrs and I really hope it's half as reliable as my foreign cars were. This thing sells itself, it's PERFECT for a family man do it yourselfer.
I saw a display for the fold a cover (which I plan on getting) and it locks the tailgate with a small handle that screws into the top inside of the tailgate. Unfortunately this handle seems like it would interfere with sliding things on and off the truck; I may look into wing nuts or something so I can quickly remove the offending handle when I need to.
brake4me, if you have a VON (vehicle order #??) you CAN track the progress of your vehicle. It's been posted in these forums somewhere along with the codes that tell you what stage your vehicle is at in the process.
PS, The durango plant is about a mile from me, so managed to order the QC using a DC employee's friend and family discount, 2% under invoice. Gotta like that!!
Why don't you ask the installer if he'd be willing to do prearranged one-day jobs. If so, post the name and number. I'm thinking that some of us wouldn't mind driving there, get one installed, and then staying in the area for some R&R overnight before coming home.
On the bed cover - I have a vinyl TekStyles cover and like it because I can pull it loose to load x-mas trees, rototillers, furniture, motorcycle parts, etc. Only problem I have is trying to snap it back on the frame in the winter. I've had to leave an electric hair dryer running inside the partially covered bed to warm up the vinyl until I could stretch it enough to finishing snapping.
I posted a new picture of my QC with the Weatherflectors on at: http://www.geocities.com/txqc2000
The new picture is on page 4 of the picture link.
I also bought a Jet Stage II chip which is allegedly designed to work with the cold air induction system and catback system I have on my 5.9L engine. Since Performanceproducts.com has a 30 day return policy, I figured I have nothing to lose. The chip took about 1 min. to install. First I tried it with the remaining few gallons of 87 octane gas I had in the tank to see if it would cause the engine to ping. Suprisingly, it didn't, even under WOT conditions. I then filled up with 93 octane gas to see if I felt any performance gains. Unfortuately, there was too much traffic this afternoon to really put the chip to the test again. But I guess I have 29 more days to see if this thing really works and is worth the $$ I paid for the supposed 18 hp gain I'm supposed to get. I'll keep ya'll posted. Have a good weekend!!
Which wax is best to repel tree sap?
Thanks,
Bob
TD
I guess I wasn't alone missing underhood light! Seems odd for Dodge to discontinue item.
Tx - Bobkitty
The things I have noticed are: 1) for some reason, I'm getting slightly better gas mileage on my 1st tank of gas using the chip (but I've only gone through 1/4 of a tank); and 2) my transmission upshifts are slightly more delayed --which is my preference. With respect to the transmission, I've been advised by Ron Wong on the DML that I may have reset my PCM while installing the chip, which could account for the change in the shift pattern.
I figure I'll go through 2 tanks of gas on the chip and evaluate the overall results, then go 1 tank without and see if I can feel any difference. I'll keep you posted.
endeavor only an amoral act. I believe that they are explained within the Edmunds' site when you look at invoices for new vehicles. I'm not certain as to what the codes are, but I believe that is what they average out to be in dollar cost
(geographical areas are priced differently). As far as "legitimate", they are that, but the dealer representative should be able to clearly define what these codes and costs indicate. I, along with most others paid them, as they are imprinted upon the invoice. I also believe that other manufacturers have these costs buried within the invoice as well. Don't be upset, check it out and have it clarified.
Bookitty
break in, go up a several posts as this was recently covered.
On the mud flaps, the low cost mud flaps ($13)to me seem to fit the flare pkg better and they are hte ones that have the ram's head in different colors. Probably most dealers keep the silver in stock, which will look good on many applications, but they are also available in many other colors. I could have gotten the emblem in bronze thru my dealer, if I had wanted. Everyone is different, but I love the look with the flat flaps better than the molded flaps.
TD
The other situation would indicate that it wants to shift into overdrive @ 60 and for some reason or another it fails to do so. You didn't mention if you were cruising on relatively flat terrain and doing so for a reasonable amount of time to allow the transmission to engage overdrive.
Bookitty
TD
and that there is no problem. If you are not satisfied, and feel uncomfortable with the truck, take it in for service and insist that you accompany the technician on the test ride.
Bookitty
TD
TD
I saw in Dakota Problems, someone suggested it is in the axle.
As far as the noise in the front I have noticed it is getting worse. I agree with someone elses analogy that it sounds like ball joints popping.
Someone said that the dealer was replacing the stailizer bar bushings. Has anyone heard what the results of that were.