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Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab
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Comments
Good luck and lube up.
robert
What ever is needed to be fixed with the TC module will be done at the dealer during new car prep.
So, check for console light, offset axle, TC activity, etc, geez DC, where is this German efficency and quality control you were suppose to bring to the table after buying Chrysler?
FWIW, Customer Service seems pretty good though...
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 01V077000
Component: POWER TRAIN TRANSFER CASE (4-WHEEL DRIVE)
Manufacturer: DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORPORATI
Mfg. Campaign #: 975
Year: 2001
Make: DODGE TRUCK
Model: DAKOTA
Potential Number of Units Affected: 85400
Manufactured From: JUL 1999 To: JAN 2001
Year of Recall: '01
Type of Report: Vehicle
Summary:
Vehicle Description: Light duty trucks and sport utility vehicles equipped with 4-wheel drive. The electric shift transfer case may not fully engage into gear when the operator moves the transfer case selector switch.
This could cause the transfer case to end up in the neutral position unexpectedly and allow the vehicle to roll away if the parking brake is not applied.
Dealers will reprogram the transfer case control module. Owner notification began April 9, 2001. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact DaimlerChrysler at 1-800-843-1403. Also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
I hope we bought a quality vehicle, or we're all @#!$!* !!! Taking away the truly expensive QC badge is not a good sign. I didn't know that a console light was ever available?
Thanks for the info on the Recall.
*** I noticed a green slime weeping out of my front differential-long axle side. Anyone know what this green stuff is... thread sealer/lubricant???
ayrow - as usual, excellent job with the Herculiner, nice quality job you did. I would have liked to seen the picture of the bed completely stripped, at first was it kind of like doing surgery on your own child?!? (untill you start sweating and cussing, then all bets are off
dhoag - The rustproofing issue sounds like a scene out of "Fargo" and way slippery to me. I didn't have any -proofing- sold to me when I bought my truck and in my opinion, it's a dealer scam.
ferous - DC states that removing the tailgate improves gas mileage!!
ford_bii - My salesman also quit the day after he sold me the truck... hmmm. I've often wonder if that was just another dealer mindgame?
FYI: Mine DOES have the "Quad Cab" badges.
Why aren't the HEAD RESTS ADJUSTABLE??? I'm 6'3" and the head rest comes to the BOTTOM of my neck. Can you say "Whiplash"? How much could it cost to add adjustable headrests? I'd gladly pay the difference.
PS. My right-front wheel still makes the popping/squeaking sound when making right turns while applying brakes. As soon as I get a break at work, I'll take it in for the 1st oil change AND get this fixed.
GATOR72
I share(d) you feelings about the headrests. It is an absulte ridiculous thing the way Dodge designed these seats. Even the more expensive bucket seats are not much better.
I did solve the problem, however.
You can see what I did here:
http://www.ayrow.com/seats.html
Good Luck
I bought my truck about two months ago and I am still waiting for the dealer to get the paperwork back from Chrysler. Then, and only then, would they cut me a check.
What a pain in the [non-permissible content removed].
I cannot stand seats with the dorky adjustable headrests. Imagine how much fun the manufacturers have making the public happy. I have never found one that I have felt comfortable with. Also, I have mentioned this several times before, THE BUCKET SEATS ARE THE SAME AS THE BENCH SEATS. The only difference is what is between the seats. The leather/electric seats maybe different, but I doubt it. If you want different seats, you will have to get some Durango seats or something like Ricaros.
Question then, is the dash light operative, where i can add a switch on the tailgate, and tap into the wiring somewhere to get the desired function?
Just kidding April 1st has past.....
My quad has done this twice (less than 6k miles on quad). The first time they had to replace the instrument panel. Claimed an incorrect fuse was installed. Second time... Lets just say I am waiting for a new local dealer to open soon to see if they have a better service department.
To let you rest a little easier, they told me it wouldn't hurt anything the first time and it took the two weeks to get the new panel last time. One hour to install.
I only have 500 miles on my 2001 AC 4.7L and I noticed that my transmission is leaking in the location where the drive shaft connects to the transmission. It is going in for service tomorrow, they said they hadn't had this problem before.
I love my QC, but, it does need a more functional headrest; either adjustable or a higher "solid" version.
I looked at the Durangos. Better seats BUT, the headrest is the same as the Q/C.
BTW... what are you doing UNDER your truck?
using my calculator produced a resulting 19+ some minor decimals. There were of course lots of road repairs and backed up traffic scenarios and the usual heavy stop and go through York. The trip home yielded 20.4 on the overhead, but I did not refuel so there was no manual calculation. I did 60 in the 55 zones and 70 in the 65 zones. Cruise Control all the way. I am quite satisfied with the performance of my Quad. 4.7, 4X4, 5 speed, 3.55 and tire and handling group plus a lot of other stuff. A.R.E. LSII fiber glass tonneau.
Bookitty
Are you trying to tell us they repair roads in Pennsylvania??? Actually they were putting pot holes in the few smooth spots of pavement left.
Rick
atokaD
It says that "A long break-in period is not required... Drive moderately for the first 300 miles."
Does this mean that engine is fully broken-in at 300? I'd always assumed is was at least 3000.
It also states "While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration , within the limits of local traffic laws, (oh sure) contributes to a good break-in.
Are they talking about highway type cruising?
Is full-throttle best achieved by pushing pedal quickly and firmly to floor, or smooth and slow?
Mashing pedal would seem to be hard on tranny--with such a forceful downshift-- but a slow build of speed will perhaps not allow as full a stroke to seat rings(?)
BTW, hit 100 MPH engine cut-out using the "slower pedal" method --heart skipped a beat--never experienced such a feature before!
Thanks for the help.
Yes you guys are right, there needs to be a head rest. The Durango seats that I put in my QC are much more supportive and the headrest is about 3" higher. I am only 5'8", so it is high enough for me. However, I could see how a taller person would not benefit from the entirely.
Thanks for the info on the green slime. I wiped it away from the axle threads and will check it again by getting UNDER my truck once more after I run in 4 wheel drive for alittle bit.
quaddub - so it is said that engines these days are broken in by the time they hit the sales lot. The advice I received was to run the truck at different speeds for the first 300-500 miles. Truth, I dunno, but I wouldn't go full throttle from a dead stop. Get your truck to cruising speed and then let'er rip, not breaking any traffic laws of course Bv} . This should be enough friction to get the oil working the rings.
Bookitty - I hope your friend recuperates quickly. Shame on you non-Pennsylvanians (iowabigguy!) making fun over our potholes, so what if we have the worst roads in the US. If you think that's bad, you should try hiking on the PA Appalachian trail (rocks, rocks, and more rocks)!
victx - I'd be interested to know how you make out with your subwoofer installation. Can you take pictures of the process, there's been alot of talk on the forum about replacing speakers and I'm sure alot of folks would like to see how you do it!
Bookitty
I for one have no problem with the headrests in my Dakota. My last several mopars had fully adjustable head rests and I didn't really care for them. It seems that whenever someone left the back seat (even though it was a 4 door) they would "tweek" the headrest and I would have to adjust it every time I got in the car.
I would just as soon have low back seats with NO headrest.
At least these fixed headrestrs aren't as much a bother as the ones from my 70 Challenger and Barracuda.
scottie
Rick has grown envious. Let's take up a collection to help send this boy to camp in the Adirondaks,
Bookitty
SEE WHAT YOU DID, RICK !!!!
the new truck will be a 2001 red quad sport, pt4x4, 4.7, auto, 3.92, sure grip, cassette and cd in dash, overhead computer, basically loaded with everything but buckets, leather and no awd.
i have to admit d/c has been great to deal with so far on this deal.
wish me luck on my 2nd truck.
robert
Bookitty
Cold Air Inductiion - Intense Performance Stage II
http://www.intenseperformance.com
Jet CHIP/PCM
180 Degree Thermostat
Gibson Swept Side Exhaust
http://www.gibsonperformance.com/index2.html
For the above, do I have to wait for the 4.7L to break in, say after 300-500 miles, or can I install the cold-air induction and Gibson Exhaust on the same day I take delivery of the truck?
Suspect I'd want to wait on the JET Chip and 180 degree thermostat, right?
Changing subjects, anyone know of a OEM vendor who makes roof racks for the QC? For the Mopar rack, my dealer wants $200, $325 to install, and won't paint it flame-red to match body color...what are my other options?
Also, anyone have experience with the LUND X-Step running boards?
Thanks in advance.
Also, I wouldn't add the Jet Chip until you've done the intake and catback 1st. Then use the Stage II chip to get better performance, if you even need it at all. I'd also wait on the 180 degree thermostat to see how hot the chip really makes your engine run. On my 5.9L, during hot days and in stop and go traffic, my thermostat needle has yet to break 210 degrees with my Stage II chip. Although the thermostat part is inexpensive ($5.00 or so for a Robert Shaw 180 degree thermostat), it is a real pain to install, at least on the 5.9L engine, so if you have a mechanic install it, the service charge could be 15x the price of the part. Also, Mopar and Mike Leach & Co. have told me that with their HP PCM's, you don't need to change out the thermostat.
Regarding the roof rack, I was wondering if you considered using a part-time rack like the Yakima? I believe it can hold more weight and you'd have tons more accessory options. Just a thought.
The stage II Jet Chip does say it is for use after some engine mods, so will break in the engine, throw on the IP Stage II cold air intake and the Gibson Cat back, then the chip, will wait on the 180 thermostat.
I'm gonna see if I can get the dealer to come down some on the price of the roof rack. BTW, there is some drilling into the roof involved with this, right?
Anyone know if the Mopar fiberglass tonneau cover is the LEER LT2000? A 3rd party instller believes so...he's also $200 cheaper for part and install.
Looking at the MOPAR side steps as well -vs- LUNDS X-step, and shopping MOPAR's Deluxe Tubular Brush guard -vs- others...price, price, price...they're so high and parts and install cost.
Thanks again...
Oh and here is a page about my truck:
http://home.mindspring.com/~tommat1/index.html
On the Tonneau, are you talking about the 1 piece or the gullwing? I know that the gullwing is not manufactured by ARE, but I don't recall who the real manufacturer is off the top of my head. In any event, when my 4x4 accessories place contacted them 3 months ago, this vendor said they were only making the gullwing for Mopar.
On the side steps and brush guard, you'll definitely save $$ by going 3rd party. Have you considered the Westin nerf bars? Also, if you prefer a lower profile brush guard, you might consider the Waag Sportster brush guard. I love the one on my truck. You can click on the link below to see pics. of the brush guard, Westin nerf bars etc. to get an idea what they look like. Good luck!
'00 Quadcab SLT+ Garnet Red 4x4 (AWD) 5.9L 46RE 3.55 LSD. For list of modifications to my QC, see my profile:
http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Vof5jrNb0pR1M/
For pictures of my QC & Accessories: http://www.geocities.com/txqc2000
When left work yesterday I heard noise when I moved the trans selector from reverse to drive. When I got home, same thing putting into park. It was the starter. When I moved through neutral the starter was engaging and running. Same thing when it was in park. You could here the starter motor spinning like crazy as the truck sat in park. Turned the engine off, and took the key out of the ignition - still running.
Drove straight to the dealer, parked the truck, in drive, with the e-brake on and got my salesman (service had gone home). Sure as s**t, as soon as he came out, it stopped (I kid you not).
They've had the truck all day and can't find the problem. I told them to check the neutral safety switch (prevents starting in gear), and the ignition switch. They said they did all that, blah blah blah...
Anyway, I'm stuck with it until it does it again.
Has anyone seen this before? I ordered mine, and it was built the 4th week of March.
depressed in Pittsburgh,
ryan
another amusing thing - the service dept. called me this morning and attempted to explain the principles of electric fans on cars, and that they run sometimes after the vehicle's been shut off (they're killing me)
I have not encountered this problem with my truck.
If it is the starter engageing at will, the service people will eventually find the problem, after the teeth of the starter and flywheel are completely worn away and they actually LOOK for a problem.
I used to have a 83 ford ranger. One time when driving 55 mph on the highway, the starter decided to engage on it's own. A very impressive grinding sound was heard. I pulled into a parking lot and shut it off. The starter continued to run while the keys were in my hand. I cycles the keys in the ignition and finally the starter stopped. Then went to restart truck and the starter tried to engage, but there were no teeth left on the starter as they were worn away. Replaced starter, and this event did not re-occure. weird.
Expecting my QWD QC in around 4/24 (order went into the system 3/19)...shopping time for all those cool things to put in and on
Thanks
As to the oil flush. As an old timer I would be leary of this. For one thing there shouldn't be any sludge built up at only 15K miles unless you are using an old parafin based oil. The modern oils run pretty clean if you change them according to schedule. Besides, they want to pump a heated solution in there? Heated what? How are they going to clean that out? I'd be concerned about whatever chemical may be in this solution.
I personally would pass on this and insist to your dealer that you only want the services specified in your owners manual.
If fact that is a good overall recomendation. If it ain't in the book, don't get hooked.
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I was darn near blown off this bridge with a wind gust. To this day I hate high places.
I do in fact remember the potholes on the trip to PA.
When you stopped hitting potholes, you were out of state.
A land where the potholes outnumber the population by 1000 to 1 per mile.
A skill when learned, created the Olympic game of the pothole slalom.
If I remember correctly, Rock climbing gear was mandatory to have in the car in order to climb out of the pothole and call a tow truck.
Swedish rock climber guides were an option when buying a car in PA. he hee