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Comments
What has been your experience with how long it took from the date your vehicle began to be built to the date you received it? I realize there probably have been a wide range of experiences, I just wondering what I might expect as a rough average.
Thanks.
Thanks
Nathan
I did not keep track of the entire process of the assembly line.
Did have the dealer make a search at about the 4 week mark, which is when my car had to be retired. At that time it was on the train at about the half way point to destination.
What a great truck and so far so good.
http://www.speedtweaks.net/bedrug_group_buy.htm
$280 includes shipping.
I put in an order for one.
If anyone is sitting on the fence, this price is hard to beat.
They need a couple more people to order for the group order to go through.
Bob
With less than 4000 miles on my truck, my brakes are starting to feel spongy. When my truck was spankin' new I believe the brakes were much "touchier" and that's the way I like them. So I guess the pads are starting to wear down a tad. I'm hard on the brakes so I've been thinking about putting in more heavy duty rotors and pads. I know this subject has been covered at length in previous posts regarding wimpy rotors and the like, but I would really appreciate it if anyone can give me suggestions as to where I can buy the best rotors and pads. Do you guys think it's too early for me to switch parts or if anyone has any advice at all it would be really appreciated!
So if your truck runs fine after the fan clutch disengages, leave it go, it's fine.
The fix is an update to your PCM (i.e. computer) I had the exact same problem as you and it took three updates to finally get it fixed. Apparently the PCM reads pre set values when in open loop mode (this is during startup) and DC did not get the programming correct. This has afflicted Jeeps and Durangoes as well (all which have the 4.7 v-8) You need to go to your dealer and CAREFULLY explain what is going on. They may want it overnight, that is fair since the problem happens during cold start. Don't let them BS you into thinking its gas related, its not.
I'll wager 20 bucks you don't have this problem during a hot restart?
Also check Maintenance forum here in town hall and you'll see a lot of discussion between me and a fella named ahasher. I think Ahasher has the TSB or at least the update information. There is nothing on my workorder other than "flash PCM" so I have no idea what the program is or was used.
Finally, I can tell you this, once the PCM was updated, I have no more problems with the idle.
Best wishes hope your dealer has some degree of intelligence and cares about your problem.
I have a 2000 4.7 4X4 with 12,000 miles that has recently started doing the same thing. Not every cold start, but maybe 2 out of 5. It starts right up just like it always did, but after it idles for about 10 -15 seconds it stumbles and the idle gets rough and drops...sometimes low enough to stall, sometimes not. It only recently started doing this and I have had it since August 2000.
Did you say you were getting 18 MPG city and 25 MPG HWY? If my QC were getting that kind of mileage, I don't think I would let ANYONE tinker with anything on it. I don't think mine would get that kind of mileage if I put it in neutral and towed it. You either have a very special 4.7 QC or you have miscalculated.
I quickly climbed to 100. But, the instant I hit 100, it was like someone slammed the brakes!!
I figured it was a "fluke". So, I went to 100 again. Same thing.
Seems as though I read about this in posts past.
Is this a Dodge, D/C thing? Is it a "governor" or a "computer" thing. Can it be legally "corrected"?
FYI: I got 19.9 mpg; mostly at 75~85 mph. Not bad considering I kept my foot in the firewall.
GATOR72
Still got the loud pop/creak from right front when turning right and applying brakes. Since Service Dept. can't/won't fix it, put in several calls to dealer/owner. Over 1 week; still no call back.
When I was washing truck today, I looked thru the front wheels and saw the disc brakes. Both of the rotors have several pronounced grooves; looks almost like the old 45-rpm vinyl records; only deeper! I've never seen disc rotors look like this on a new vehicle. This can't be a good thing. Anyone have any ideas out there???
GATOR72
or 4 years, but the real estate market is becoming very active in this area since Money Magazine pronounced it to be the fourth best place to live in America, and the first best place in any area without snow. So, it looks like we are on our way to becoming traffic stopping restaurant crowding official snow birds. Your trip sounded great, and am happy that you are enjoying your Quad Cab. You did well on mileage considering the 3.92 differential.
Bookitty
A jester who wants to see better in the morning :-)
ja182 - I have the Gibson Singleswept 3" catback system and absolutely love it. It sounds great OUTSIDE when you turn the ignition and when you stomp it, but INSIDE, the sound difference/resonance is hardly noticeable. I've been told by the Flowmaster dealer who installed my Gibson for me that the Flowmasters are much noisier inside and outside.
i've got the 4.7,5 spd.,2wd...with 24,000 miles.i feel a shudder or release sensation when i come to a stop.then slowly ease back forward .
Could this be early rotor disease or the start of some play in the front end assembly?
otherwise...the rest is cool!!!!!!!!!!!!
good luck bookitty. we spent some time looking in the golden triangle of texas last week.no snow there either!
stephen
I've had my 4.7 4x4 up to 108 mph, and it was still pulling like a mule.
Since FLA is full, try Texas. There are some wonderful towns that are still "undiscovered". They provide great "quality of life", more "bang" for the buck, reasonable property values, and close to major medical facilities; (especially important for us "middle-aged" guys). PLUS, Texas has no State income tax.
Check out the following places - North of San Antonio:
- New Braunfels
- San Marcus
- Brenham
Austin is good; but, too many people moving in. It's becoming just another "big town". Property values thru the roof!
GATOR72
Bookitty
I *think* I saw a post awhile back that said the stock PCM speed limiter is programmed for around 97-100 mph for automatics and around 115-118 mph for manual transmissions.
Can any of you guys with a BOB or BTB tell us if it says anything specific about the stock PCM speed limiter specifications? Are there any other variables besides transmission type?
Tom Cruise would be proud of you all . . . morons!
Trippinglizard - wooah buddy, relax. The only time I hit 108 was when I was down in West Virgina 2 weeks ago. If you're not familiar with WV, (which I wasn't) it is all HILLS. BIG ONES. If you're not going up a hill, you're going down one. Their road quality is far superior to PA. Anyways, on one of the really big down hills, I punched it a little in overdrive, and hit the 108, just to see if all the 100 mph rumors were true.
I will say, the truck was damn smooth at 100+. But I don't think I'll be going there again.
I too have the AWD system and it has worked great thus far. No problems whatsoever. But I don't get near the gas mileage that you do. Probably b/c I have the 5.9L engine.
I bought mine from him for something like $225 including the shipping cost. I also believe there is a group buy being organized through him via the DML (www.dakota-truck.net).
Good luck.
The bedlight has been very useful since I have the gullwing tonneau cover, and it can be rather hard to find stuff under there unless you have a light. Mine is hooked into the interior lights via a separate relay instead of the cab light switch that Mopar intended. So when I hit the remote control FOB the light inside the bed comes on while I'm retrieving my stuff.