Thad, if indeed Toby is already pulling a trailer, another option would be outfitting that trailer or another to accommodate his needs. My friends have a trailer (enclosed) that hauls a car along with tools, spares, etc.
Thanks for the feedback. As Ferous guessed, I am already pulling the car on a trailer -- it's just a little one, 14x7' deck. I'd love to have a big enclosed monster with workshop-type space and storage but I'm not too certain the QC would be happy pulling it, and it would be a bunch of $$$.
I am considering selling the existing trailer and just getting a slightly larger one -- say 18' or so -- so I can sit the car farther back and reduce the tongue weight. But if I then attach a whole bunch of stuff to the front of the trailer (tire racks, lockable cabinets, etc) then I'm eroding that advantage.
My basic question was quite straightforward -- does anyone know what's involved in removing the bed? If I go this route I'll put together a flatbed config with lockable storage for all sorts of stuff and a level roofline so I can put big things on top like I would have put in the original bed. I'm already investigating the various helper spring options (air & rubber springs seem to be the prevailing options) and I'll probably end up with a weight-distributing hitch.
I think firmer shocks are also in the cards -- both the Edelbrock IAS and the Rancho 9000 adjustables are now available for the Quad.
Robert, The service manual indicates that only the lower ball joints on 4x4's require lubrication. There are no lube points on the suspension/drivetrain of the 2wd's. There isn't even any service procedure for the front wheel bearings. "Remove and replace" is the name of the game.
As a relatively new QUAD owner ('02, 4WD, 4.7, Flame Red) and I guess pickup owner for that matter, I need some feedback from you seasoned veterans out there. Here's the scenario: my wife was picking up some landscaping material yesterday and as the employees loaded some metal edging, they put a 6 inch scratch (down to the metal) right down the middle of the tailgate. She was quite upset b/c it was avoidable, but she didn't cause a scene or chew anybody out. Both of us are quite bummed about this nasty scratch, so should we A)demand that the business pay for fixing the scratch and continue with my bellyaching, OR should I get a life and quit acting like a yuppie and accept that this is a PICKUP TRUCK and that the damned thing is supposed to get scratched,dented and beat up. (it's such a nice looking truck though!) Any feedback would be appreciated.
Is the scratch on the outside or inside of the tailgate. If on the inside, I would fix it myself with primer and paint and then purchase a bed mat for the tail gate. I bought the one from the dodge accessory catalog and it looks good and functions to eliminate life's little boo boos. I'm not sure the store would be liable because they are doing you a favor by loading it in a way and you may be waiving liability since you permitted them to do so but if they want a happy customer, they might meet you half way or more. A professional body detailing shop might be able to remove or diminish the mark. About 3 month's after I bought my truck, I was hooking up my boat the "new and improved" way that I thought of. Since I was by myself, I had the bright idea to pick up the boat trailer tongue and move the boat to the hitch rather than the other way around. As soon as I picked up the tongue of the trailer, the incline of the slight hill took over and gravity reared its head and I preceded to ram the tailgate with the trailer tongue and then as if the crushed-in area was not bad enough, I created a 20" long scratch horizontally across the tailgate trying to separate the two. I was so sick after what I had done that I went to bed and covered up myself and head and sulked. $350.00 to the local body shop the following day fixed this 10 second mistake.
I installed (screwed) the rubber tailgate mat to the inside of my tailgate and I just love it. I also have a stainless steel tailgate cap that fits on the top of the tailgate. The two of these protection devices allow me to slide or drag anything in and out without causing any damage. I also have the rubber mat for the truck bed (no liner). When I ordered my truck (1/2000) they didn't have rubber mats available for the QC Bed, so I ordered a CC mat which gives me an extra foot of material that I just turn up the front of the bed. Makes for great protection when objects slide forward for what ever reason.
My '01 has the 3.55 LSD, I am curious about what would be involved in swapping in the 3.92? Is the LSD a clutch-type, is it somehow separate from the ring & pinion? Should I just find a complete rear axle assembly from a yard somewhere?
With the problems that I myself and many others I know personally and on here, I would have to say if you have a axle that is quiet, I wouldnt change it. Ill put it another way. My 2000 was bought back by Dodge because after 6 trys including 2 new axles they never got rid of my very loud whine. My 2001 replacement is quiet and I wouldnt touch it except changing the fluid. I am not the only one with multiple axle replacements and subsequent buybacks.
Well now I don't feel so bad after hearing your story about the boat ramming your tailgate. My scratch was also on the outside of the tailgate. I have a Line-x on the inside so I don't have anything to worry about there. My scratch isn't as bad as yours so I'll just have to get over it. On the bright side, 8500 miles and it's still running w/o any problems. Don't even have that white goo in the oil filler that a lot of people on this board have had problems with.
2001,4.7, auto, QC, 3.55, Bright White. 29,400mi. Have had no problems since delivery till the other morning in a rush to go to work had that sickening very slow crank....barely got it started....checked the battery...indicator was black...bad cell. My dealer replaced....3 year/36K free replacement per warranty...of course he replaced it with a generic piece of &*%$. but it was a FREE piece of *&(%. I'll get myself an Interstate when this one goes....I give it a year in the Arizona 105 degree summers....An interesting side note I had the dealer do a brake insp / adjust while replacing the batt. I have read here numerous times of brakes going quickly....I am happy to report they were in great shape and at 50% life both front and rear.......not bad for almost 30K...and I don't drive like a granndpa either.......Next week I get to do the 30K service.....spark plug time.....
Just checking in. 10,500 miles on the truck now. No problems.
Been doing construction work, and have carried a lot of building materials without too much trouble. Have utilized the notches in the bed sides for the horizontal lumber supports in order to carry 4'x8' size material. FYI: sheetrock will be better supported if a piece of plywood is used before stacking sheetrock. Without the plywood, the sheetrock seems to bend too far past the rear horizontal lumber support, and could possibly crack.
The short bed is a challenge at times when hauling long items. I have carried 16' moulding, lumber, and vinyl soffet material, by sliding it through the rear sliding window.
Have had the bed FULL of old asphault shingles and roofing material, which were hauled to the recycle center. The truck was probably at the maximum weight limit. First time I saw the rear end sag a bit. It hauled it well. The 3.92 axle ratio would have been better suited for this application. With the 3.55"s that my truck is equipped, accelleration was slower than normal, otherwise, I really did not notice there was any load at all.
Have carried 4 passengers, (this is the maximum amount of passengers this truck will carry as equipped), no complaints at all about comfort. The only complaint I heard from the passengers,is that, it was not their truck.
I've been been building a carport/deck and it has to be big enough to cover 2 Neons. Have to protect them from the large hail that is becoming commonplace in the Mid-West these past few years. Had 4 1/2" hail 60 miles from Omaha last week. Anyway I have to free span 17" because I don't want posts in the center for my kids to hit. I've hauled 2"x10"x18' and 2"x4"x20' on my quad. I've got the Leer topper they show in the Dodge brochure. When I ordered it I had them install brackets that allow me to use a Yakima rack. I can attest to the strength of this combo. I have had 4 wet green treated 2"x10"x18's and 3 4"x4"x12's on top at once with no problems at all, as well as a dozen bags of concrete mix in the box. Rear bumper dropped about 2" when handling this load. 16,500 miles and no problems either! Rick
Rick, I've been looking into the Yakima racks for the top of my QC, so I have a question for you. Do you have both cross bars on the cap and none on the cab, or do you have 1 on each? I want to carry ladders, canoe, etc on top of my QC so I have been looking at 1 on top of my Century cap and one over the front door section of the cab. What are your comments?
ferous. I have both on my cap. Spacing between bars is about 4 foot so the load if long you have to be careful of how you balance and tie the load down. For ladders and canoes I'd recommend one on the cap and one on the truck. Best yet would be two on cap and one for the cab when you need to haul the log stuff. Rick
I'm getting a mid rise Arrow. I've heard and seen applications with one or two on canopy and one on roof. I'm getting the canopy and racks (installing myself) tomorrow. Bright silver to match 2002 2wdQC4.7.
The only thing I'm uncertain about is tying down a long heavy load to all three racks. Could the flexing of the bed/frame cause the fiberglass canopy to crack at rack mounting points? I'm considering using the back and cab rack for canoe, then the canopy racks for bikes or car top carrier.
iowabigguy, Sounds like you have right configuration for hauling stuff. My truck and cap do not have racks, so long items are slid through the rear sliding window.
Guys, I have been searching for an "over the cap" ladder rack. I believe there are 2 which will fit.
One is from hauler racks, MODEL C-7-R, which runs about $500. It is suppose to carry 1000 lbs with the camper brackets.
The other is a universal type called the Renegade XT, made by Crosstread. It is available from different suppliers. It is suppose to carry 750 lbs with the camper brackets.
Still have to decide on which one to buy.
I am kind of leary about having racks on the fiberglass cap, as I do not know how much weight it will hold.
Hi All, Thought I'd throw in my 2 cents worth.. my 00/4.7/5 speed/2wd is still running fine at 44k. ran from east Texas to Guadelope river in central Texas pulling a trailer and all the camping gear with no problems.a/c ran fine,mpg's were prob 17-18.my new dayton tires were quiet yet griped like crazy in the rain and on the campground dirt roads. I will need to do spark plugs soon and will go with the wisdom of the group. has the rumor of the demise of the dakota been laid to rest? around here (houston)you can buy the ram 1500 with those four puny doors for thousands less than the dak..will wconomics kill us ? all for now,...steve
My 00' 4.7, 5 spd, 3.55, 2wd is still running fine at 52K. Still getting around 22-23 MPG. I haven't seen any decrease or increase in fuel economy since 7K miles. I just changed my spark plugs at 50K. I put Champion Platinum plugs in. I found the plugs harder to change than I thought they would be. Took a total of 1 hour / 1 beer. You have to remove all of the air intake system. (Good time to change the air filter) Make sure you use a real spark plug socket not a deep socket like I did. I had to use needle nose pliers to remove the plugs from the deep hole that they sit in. I also found I had to stand on the front bumper to get enough leverage to push the coils back on the new plugs. I'm a light weight.
Do you drive a Chevrolet Suburban or the Dodge Dakota Quad Cab? If so, and if you're willing to talk with a major daily newspaper about your truck, please send your vehicle info and contact info including phone number by noon Eastern on Tuesday, July 2 to jfallon@edmunds.com. Thanks!
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
My thanks to Ferous for those encouraging words of plug wisdom!!! i will do all the needed maint. soon and let you guys know how i made out.can not do truck work and have beer....lose too much skin on my knuckles!!
Hi all. I have a 2002 Quad Cab. Pat.blue, 5speed manual, 6 cyl, 2WD, air, cruise, tow, manual locks and windows. We bought it in December '01. In April '02 at about 9000miles, I brought it in to the dealer because the clutch squeaked (sounded like I had doves in the car), because there was a loud clicking sound like when you run out of oil - except there was plenty of oil and because the digital clock was running fast by about a minute per week. They found excessive heat damage and wear on the clutch and had to replace the clutch cylinder. No I don't ride the clutch. AND they discovered that the lifter bores were machined incorrectly at the factory and had to replace the lower engine block. Okay, we had that done. Picked up the truck Tues. night. Drove into work Wednesday morning with two kids in the back and twelve miles into my 30 mile trip, we were stuck on the side of the road with a really bad smelling vehicle. It had a bad piston in the new engine. So they replaced again. I also had a sick feeling when I stomped the brakes in traffic the other day. I don't know if I'm just paranoid, but they didn't feel quite right. I have the willies about this truck, so the dealer has found another 2002 for me and I was going to exchange, when he told me the new truck had arrived without a reverse, and they had to put in a new transmission. So does Dodge make a Dak that can drive, or do I just have the worst luck on earth? I really like the truck as far as how it carries my kids and my stuff, and how it looks. Any comments, and what should I do? Keep the truck with its third engine or take the truck with it's 2nd transmission??? Thanks so much for your help.
I would go with the 2nd one. I am on my 3rd and will never go with another one. D/C has been helpful in replacing the 2nd one but on the first one they were hell to deal with. My third one has already had issues with the tranny and the rear main seal on the engine and as for now it is doing fine but it will be my last D/C vehicle.
I would check your state's "lemon law" details. My guess is, just because the dealer found this particular truck, doesn't mean you MUST take the one they offer. You should be able to refuse it as it doesn't fulfill the requirements as a replacement as it is damaged as well. Make the dealer look for another truck that is not damaged. There are still plenty out there. If necessary (and it pains me to say this because I don't like lawyers) have an attorney be your advocate with the dealer, most dealers are rightly afraid of them and will be more receptive to offers rather than from a customer.
anybody having problems starting the 4.7 in this hot weather? Just curious. Maybe my pump is going? any ideas? thanks quaddub for the comeback on #4121.
Anyone taken down their headliner? I have a '00 Quad and want to put some sound deadener in my roof but not sure where to start. Is it that hard. (Siren makes too much noise, Firefighter) Thanks, Eric
Have 4000+ miles on my Quad since received beginning of April. So far except for paint blemishes from factory, no problems. 4.7L, 5 spd,3.55 LSD,2WD, Loaded, added Dodge heavy rubber mud flaps, K&N drop-in, 3" dynamax cat back, ARE LSII tonneau, Smittybilt nerf bars. So far still getting 16-17 mpg combination driving. Took a day trip up to LA, round trip of 355 mi's. 20+ mpg on trip up from San Diego with a/c at 70 mph. Trip home was spent in traffic jams of up to 30 mph for 30% of the time, again with a/c on ended up avg of 19.4 mpg for entire trip. I've been very happy with performance and mpg. My '98 with 5.2L same equip as '02 was not as smooth and was very easy to break the tires loose even running a taller wider tire.'02 seams to always keeps good traction even with stock Goodyears (handling package). So far not even counting extra space in the Quad the 4.7L beats the 5.2L my opinion hands down, I can now see why everyone is so happy with the 4.7 even with the problems with other things (brakes,wipers, heater-a/c air etc.)
that is it for now hope everyone has a great 4th, and be safe!!!! So we can all talk later!!!
Eric: From the Service manual, 1. Remove sun visors and visor hooks 2. Remove coat hooks 3. Remove overhead console 4. Remove A-pillar trim 5. Remove quarter trim/B-pillar trim panels 6. Remove dome lamp 7. Separate headliner from roof panel 8. Extract headliner through door opening
I had to pull my headliner partially down to troubleshoot a windshield leaking. It appears to be a fiberglass shell with the foam/fabric glued to it. Hope this helps, Dick
It's been a while since I've been here. With 13K miles including 2 trips from Chicago to South FL, my '01 has been running well. I added a color-matched ARE top and a bedrug which makes for nice large enclosed cargo area.
However within the last week I started to get a "knocking" noise and feel which appears to be coming from the steering column. It seems to occur at the beginning of any acceleration or deceleration. It definitely was not there previously. I plan to take to the dealer, but I'd appreciate any comments or advice.
I'm sure there are posts here about this issue, I just didn't want to wade through the thousands that here now.
I also have an ARE cap and the bedrug, sure is nice. No knocking from my truck, so can't help you out there. Dealer should help you out about your concerns though. Good luck, Bob
Someone else recently posted about difficulty starting their truck in hot weather. I don't know if my issue is related to the heat or not, but in recent weeks the truck has developed an irritating habit -- if it's left to sit for anything more than a few minutes, it needs to crank for a few seconds before it starts (4.7L). It used to catch and fire pretty much instantly, so the difference is quite striking. It seems to me like the regulator isn't holding pressure in the fuel circuit when the engine's off, so it needs to pressurize the line again, but I could be way off. Once started, runs fine, no hesitations or other obvious fuel-related problems.
I'll take it into the dealer next week but wondered if anybody had any thoughts on the subject.
I passed up the 10K (actually have 12K now) mile mark last weekend on an 1800 mile round trip to South Dakota and have a few observations in case anybody's interested(4.7,4WD,Auto,3.55). First of all, the truck hasn't had any significant problems yet. I did get the front end aligned last week as there was a pull to the right. Now for my 1800 mile round trip.... - I averaged 14.5 MPG doing anywhere between 65 and 85 MPH. During one 400 mile stretch I got 18.5 MPG but that was with a tailwind. The rest of the trip I was fighting a 30 MPH headwind. I was a little disappointed with the MPG but maybe that's to be expected fighting a constant Nebraska wind. - I used a quart of oil which surprised me. Previously I had not added any oil between oil changes. Maybe this was due to the engine working harder to maintain 80-85 MPH on I-80 with the headwind. - The cruise control struggled to keep the speed constant at 80 MPH in the headwind. I figured this beefy engine could handle this speed. My old '90 Nissan Maxima 3.0 never struggled (might not be a good comparison) - I drove for 12 hours straight and was quite happy with the ride and the comfort inside the cabin. There were 3 of us in the cab plus we had one back seat folded up for luggage storage. we had 3 dogs in the back along with more luggage and 3 bikes on the trailer hitch. (What an awesome truck) - So far no brake problems.
furydog: If your running 80 to 85 in your dakota, you need a lot of power to push the flat nose through the air. I have notices a significant decrease in mileage when you exceed 70 mph. Don't forget that you have four big tires and the drag coefficient of a garage door.
I would be kind of worried about a quart of oil being consumed. I will be interested to hear if anybody else has had this engine consume oil with as little as 10,000 miles.
I have 53K on my 4.7, and have never seen the oil level on the dipstick change. I have even pulled a pop-up camper 1K miles and have never used any oil. I do use a synthetic oil.
Neglecting mechanical drag (a very bad assumption, but we don't have the room here for the full calculation), driving 80 into a 30mph headwind requires about 2.5 times as much force than driving 70 mph on a calm day, so don't be disappointed by the reduced gas mileage on your trip. I recommend driving down-wind more often ;-)
I have an '02 4.7L 5-speed quad, and I added an ARE lid (tonneau) . . . what a great truck . . . got it Jan 6 and already have 14k on it! As for mpg, I routinely get in the 19's on the highway and 17's in town, unless I'm really getting on it . . . you gotta love that 4.7 when you punch it!
Overall, I'm very happy with the truck, except I can't believe that they only put one drink holder in the front (sheesh!). Also, the left-right deflecting capability of the air vents really sucks, but I guess it *is* a truck.
I needed more than one cup holder too with the 5-spd. manual setup and found a good solution at Walmart of all places. It fits nice and snug on the floor between the seat cushion and the plastic housing on the floor. It is called "SpillMaster" and holds two drinks and is adjustable to hold many different sizes. It can be velcro'd down or screwed down but the fit is snug so I let gravity do the work and that way it can be easily removed for the occasional cleaning. Unlike most products today, it is made in the good ole USA.
I should probably clarify the quart of oil I used on my 1800 mile trip. It's definitely not completely accurate b/c the oil when I left on the trip was right on the "safe" line and was just under the line halfway through the trip. I added a half a quart to get it back up and at the end of the trip it was back at the safe line so I added the last half quart of oil. So I added somewhere between a half and whole quart. I don't think it will be a big deal.
Last week I bought a set of new rotors and pads from Pep Boys for my '01 QC. Both were Raybestos. Rotors were ~$60 ea, pads were ~$45 i think? anyway not too outrageous.
Installed them and, as expected, the nasty vibration under braking went away. The new pads have a slightly higher initial bite but are also even dustier than the stock pads! I'm surprised about that. My front wheels are almost black now.
Anyway it was a relatively cheap fix. My local dealer wanted to charge me $165 just to resurface the existing OEM rotors. So for basically the same money i've got all new parts. Incidentally after 26k miles, the OEM pads still had LOTS of life left, so i've kept them as spares for now.
I can tell you this for certain. Having owned 2 Dak QC trucks,a 2000, and now an 02, both 4x4 4.7L autos, and the 02 is AWD, AND I LIVE in Nebraska,(some of the worst winds ever this year), you best believe that the wind will drive down your mileage by 2 to 3 miles per gallon easily. Also as mentioned by others, over 65 to 70 mph takes its toll as well. My biggest surprise so far with this 02 AWD compared to the 2000 truck is that it is averaging .5 to .75 mpg better all around with 2600 miles on it than the 00 did. Without 30+ MPH head winds the 02 is running 17 to 17.5 mostly short highway trips. 18.6 is the high so far. On the oil part, the 00 had 23,000 miles on it and never used any oil between changes, and so far the 02 hasn't either yet. Nick.
(tegwj) You must have selected the CARBON-based pads that Raybestos offers. I opted for their CERAMIC-based pads (QuietStop line) which have far less dust than the OEM pads.
Have you been following these guidelines for new Rotors/Pads? This will help reduce chances of warping your new rotors before they are seasoned.
01q/c sport 4.7 auto,2wd lsp. I haven't posted in here for awhile. so for the most truck has been problem free. Most recently HOWEVER,the MIL light has come on. this is the light that looks like a engine has to do supposedly with emissions. well has to the dealer twice already first time i was told my gas cap was not tight and that caused a vacume leak so they reset the light cause it will not reset it self like some trucks ): following week light is on again, repeated visit to dealer they said the can find no hard code in computer specify a specific component thats bad. they said its possible that the one of the vent lines coming off the tank maybe leaking or kinked etc and they want to drop the tank to perform a test where they blow smoke into the tubes to see if there is a leak. ** anyone else experience this problem or something similar***?
Probably right, I just bought what pep boys had in stock.
Yes, I was most careful in seasoning the new rotors. The one thing about this which bugs me is that I don't recall exactly when I warped the OEM pieces, what driving conditions I was in, that sort of thing. So I don't know if it was genuine poor components, or I reefed on the brakes at some point and cooked 'em.
Comments
Bookitty
2) are there any grease fittings on the 2001 Dakota?
thanks in advance
Thanks for the feedback. As Ferous guessed, I am already pulling the car on a trailer -- it's just a little one, 14x7' deck. I'd love to have a big enclosed monster with workshop-type space and storage but I'm not too certain the QC would be happy pulling it, and it would be a bunch of $$$.
I am considering selling the existing trailer and just getting a slightly larger one -- say 18' or so -- so I can sit the car farther back and reduce the tongue weight. But if I then attach a whole bunch of stuff to the front of the trailer (tire racks, lockable cabinets, etc) then I'm eroding that advantage.
My basic question was quite straightforward -- does anyone know what's involved in removing the bed? If I go this route I'll put together a flatbed config with lockable storage for all sorts of stuff and a level roofline so I can put big things on top like I would have put in the original bed. I'm already investigating the various helper spring options (air & rubber springs seem to be the prevailing options) and I'll probably end up with a weight-distributing hitch.
I think firmer shocks are also in the cards -- both the Edelbrock IAS and the Rancho 9000 adjustables are now available for the Quad.
twj
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Robert
twj
Just my opinion and alot of others I know,
Good luck.
Robert
10,500 miles on the truck now.
No problems.
Been doing construction work, and have carried a lot of building materials without too much trouble. Have utilized the notches in the bed sides for the horizontal lumber supports in order to carry 4'x8' size material.
FYI: sheetrock will be better supported if a piece of plywood is used before stacking sheetrock. Without the plywood, the sheetrock seems to bend too far past the rear horizontal lumber support, and could possibly crack.
The short bed is a challenge at times when hauling long items. I have carried 16' moulding, lumber, and vinyl soffet material, by sliding it through the rear sliding window.
Have had the bed FULL of old asphault shingles and roofing material, which were hauled to the recycle center. The truck was probably at the maximum weight limit. First time I saw the rear end sag a bit. It hauled it well. The 3.92 axle ratio would have been better suited for this application. With the 3.55"s that my truck is equipped, accelleration was slower than normal, otherwise, I really did not notice there was any load at all.
Have carried 4 passengers, (this is the maximum amount of passengers this truck will carry as equipped), no complaints at all about comfort. The only complaint I heard from the passengers,is that, it was not their truck.
So far so good!
Keep on trucking,
Bob
I've been looking into the Yakima racks for the top of my QC, so I have a question for you. Do you have both cross bars on the cap and none on the cab, or do you have 1 on each?
I want to carry ladders, canoe, etc on top of my QC so I have been looking at 1 on top of my Century cap and one over the front door section of the cab. What are your comments?
The only thing I'm uncertain about is tying down a long heavy load to all three racks. Could the flexing of the bed/frame cause the fiberglass canopy to crack at rack mounting points? I'm considering using the back and cab rack for canoe, then the canopy racks for bikes or car top carrier.
Sounds like you have right configuration for hauling stuff.
My truck and cap do not have racks, so long items are slid through the rear sliding window.
Guys, I have been searching for an "over the cap" ladder rack.
I believe there are 2 which will fit.
One is from hauler racks, MODEL C-7-R, which runs about $500. It is suppose to carry 1000 lbs with the camper brackets.
The other is a universal type called the Renegade XT, made by Crosstread. It is available from different suppliers. It is suppose to carry 750 lbs with the camper brackets.
Still have to decide on which one to buy.
I am kind of leary about having racks on the fiberglass cap, as I do not know how much weight it will hold.
Any suggestions or advice are welcome.
Bob
Thought I'd throw in my 2 cents worth.. my 00/4.7/5 speed/2wd is still running fine at 44k. ran from east Texas to Guadelope river in central Texas pulling a trailer and all the camping gear with no problems.a/c ran fine,mpg's were prob 17-18.my new dayton tires were quiet yet griped like crazy in the rain and on the campground dirt roads.
I will need to do spark plugs soon and will go with the wisdom of the group.
has the rumor of the demise of the dakota been laid to rest? around here (houston)you can buy the ram 1500 with those four puny doors for thousands less than the dak..will wconomics kill us ?
all for now,...steve
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Review your vehicle
i will do all the needed maint. soon and let you guys know how i made out.can not do truck work and have beer....lose too much skin on my knuckles!!
steve
I had a couple of small issues when my truck was new, all fixed under warranty. A bad window regulator and 2 different recall notices.
It is up to you which truck to go with.
They will still be covered by the warranty.
It is a pain in the neck to get the bugs worked out sometimes.
If it were me, I would go with truck #2.
Also, with either truck, try to get a free extended warranty and maintenance contract for all your trauma in dealing with the first truck.
Good luck,
Bob
Good luck,
Robert
good luck.
any ideas?
thanks quaddub for the comeback on #4121.
Thanks,
Eric
4.7L, 5 spd,3.55 LSD,2WD, Loaded, added Dodge heavy rubber mud flaps, K&N drop-in, 3" dynamax cat back, ARE LSII tonneau, Smittybilt nerf bars. So far still getting 16-17 mpg combination driving.
Took a day trip up to LA, round trip of 355 mi's. 20+ mpg on trip up from San Diego with a/c at 70 mph. Trip home was spent in traffic jams of up to 30 mph for 30% of the time, again with a/c on ended up avg of 19.4 mpg for entire trip.
I've been very happy with performance and mpg. My '98 with 5.2L same equip as '02 was not as smooth and was very easy to break the tires loose even running a taller wider tire.'02 seams to always keeps good traction even with stock Goodyears (handling package).
So far not even counting extra space in the Quad the 4.7L beats the 5.2L my opinion hands down, I can now see why everyone is so happy with the 4.7 even with the problems with other things (brakes,wipers, heater-a/c air etc.)
that is it for now hope everyone has a great 4th, and be safe!!!! So we can all talk later!!!
Lee
From the Service manual,
1. Remove sun visors and visor hooks
2. Remove coat hooks
3. Remove overhead console
4. Remove A-pillar trim
5. Remove quarter trim/B-pillar trim panels
6. Remove dome lamp
7. Separate headliner from roof panel
8. Extract headliner through door opening
I had to pull my headliner partially down to troubleshoot a windshield leaking. It appears to be a fiberglass shell with the foam/fabric glued to it. Hope this helps, Dick
However within the last week I started to get a "knocking" noise and feel which appears to be coming from the steering column. It seems to occur at the beginning of any acceleration or deceleration. It definitely was not there previously. I plan to take to the dealer, but I'd appreciate any comments or advice.
I'm sure there are posts here about this issue, I just didn't want to wade through the thousands that here now.
Thanks.
No knocking from my truck, so can't help you out there. Dealer should help you out about your concerns though.
Good luck,
Bob
I'll take it into the dealer next week but wondered if anybody had any thoughts on the subject.
thanks,
twj
- I averaged 14.5 MPG doing anywhere between 65 and 85 MPH. During one 400 mile stretch I got 18.5 MPG but that was with a tailwind. The rest of the trip I was fighting a 30 MPH headwind. I was a little disappointed with the MPG but maybe that's to be expected fighting a constant Nebraska wind.
- I used a quart of oil which surprised me. Previously I had not added any oil between oil changes. Maybe this was due to the engine working harder to maintain 80-85 MPH on I-80 with the headwind.
- The cruise control struggled to keep the speed constant at 80 MPH in the headwind. I figured this beefy engine could handle this speed. My old '90 Nissan Maxima 3.0 never struggled (might not be a good comparison)
- I drove for 12 hours straight and was quite happy with the ride and the comfort inside the cabin. There were 3 of us in the cab plus we had one back seat folded up for luggage storage. we had 3 dogs in the back along with more luggage and 3 bikes on the trailer hitch. (What an awesome truck)
- So far no brake problems.
Overall I am very happy with the truck so far.
I would be kind of worried about a quart of oil being consumed. I will be interested to hear if anybody else has had this engine consume oil with as little as 10,000 miles.
Blue
Neglecting mechanical drag (a very bad assumption, but we don't have the room here for the full calculation), driving 80 into a 30mph headwind requires about 2.5 times as much force than driving 70 mph on a calm day, so don't be disappointed by the reduced gas mileage on your trip. I recommend driving down-wind more often ;-)
I have an '02 4.7L 5-speed quad, and I added an ARE lid (tonneau) . . . what a great truck . . . got it Jan 6 and already have 14k on it! As for mpg, I routinely get in the 19's on the highway and 17's in town, unless I'm really getting on it . . . you gotta love that 4.7 when you punch it!
Overall, I'm very happy with the truck, except I can't believe that they only put one drink holder in the front (sheesh!). Also, the left-right deflecting capability of the air vents really sucks, but I guess it *is* a truck.
Regards,
Greg
I needed more than one cup holder too with the 5-spd. manual setup and found a good solution at Walmart of all places. It fits nice and snug on the floor between the seat cushion and the plastic housing on the floor. It is called "SpillMaster" and holds two drinks and is adjustable to hold many different sizes. It can be velcro'd down or screwed down but the fit is snug so I let gravity do the work and that way it can be easily removed for the occasional cleaning. Unlike most products today, it is made in the good ole USA.
Installed them and, as expected, the nasty vibration under braking went away. The new pads have a slightly higher initial bite but are also even dustier than the stock pads! I'm surprised about that. My front wheels are almost black now.
Anyway it was a relatively cheap fix. My local dealer wanted to charge me $165 just to resurface the existing OEM rotors. So for basically the same money i've got all new parts. Incidentally after 26k miles, the OEM pads still had LOTS of life left, so i've kept them as spares for now.
twj
Have you been following these guidelines for new Rotors/Pads? This will help reduce chances of warping your new rotors before they are seasoned.
http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part1.html
** anyone else experience this problem or something similar***?
Yes, I was most careful in seasoning the new rotors. The one thing about this which bugs me is that I don't recall exactly when I warped the OEM pieces, what driving conditions I was in, that sort of thing. So I don't know if it was genuine poor components, or I reefed on the brakes at some point and cooked 'em.
Oh well, only time will tell.
twj