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Anyway net net is that it doesn't seem to have been weather/heat-related. Hopefully this will fix it...
twj
You should be thankful if they are paying for the replacement. I have a friend with a Ram that had to pay for his out of pocket. He was just barely beyond the warrantee period.
twj
BASICALLY:
1) Pump up a slight pressure in the fuel tank and seal it... check that it can hold this pressure.(The pump can be heard as a "clicking" under the hood for about a minute when engine is first started.)
2)bleed the pressure thru a specific-sized orfice and time how long it takes.
3)go back top "normal" operation of allowing the charcoal canister to store fuel vapors and then feed them into the intake manifold for burning.
Please refer to the shop manual that contains several pages of description about the EEC tests.
It is interesting that there is a definition of a "TRIP" which is the basis of most of the OBDII tests that take place. Without a complete "TRIP" many of the tests are void.
1) Flecks of debris in the paint finish upon delivery. Most of these seemed to buff out, but still very disappointing.
2) Transmission sometimes "clunks" as I accelerate from a stop. Seems to happen before I hit 40-50 km/h. Dealer service claims this is normal.
3) Ventilation blows a musty smell for the first 5 minutes or so. Happened with the heater in the winter and with the a/c this summer - worse in winter though. Seems to be fine once the truck warms up. Dealer service said it is probably bacteria and sprayed for it - smelled nice for a bit and then started happening again.
4) Vinyl panel on driver's leather seat (the piece you look at when the drivers door is open) developed a couple of cracks and split open. I was especially disappointed with this because I thought I bought leather seats. Dealer said he would patch this - I just need to make an appointment.
I noticed some TSB's since last year. Should any of these concern me? Especially interested if anyone has info about the harsh upshifts/downshifts.
18-003-02 JAN 02 Engine - Rough Idle/Hesitation/Spark Knock
18-025-01 OCT 01 A/T - 45RFE/545RFE Harsh Upshifts/Downshifts
11-002-01 SEP 01 Evaporator Drain/Exhaust - Hissing Sound
24-011-01 SEP 01 Defroster Outlets - Whistling Sound
19-007-01 AUG 01 Power Steering - New Fluid Type
For the most part I'm satisfied with the truck. I really like the response of the V8 engine and the Quad cab seat is great for passengers.
Thanks for the EEC information. Whenever I've had a "Check Engine" light come on for an EEC problem, it has happened within 2 miles after a start-up. Could be a problem transitioning from one mode to another.
In an unrelated "what are some people thinking" topic I saw a late model Ford Taurus sedan towing a 22-23 ft 15-20 year old travel trailer. The trailer has to weight 3500-4000 lbs. The car appeared to have either a class I or II hitch, so no weight distributing gear. The back end of the car was almost touching the ground. If I remember correctly, the Taurus probably has a tow rating of 2000 lbs or less. Although I couldn't verify it, I would be willing to bet the trailer's brakes weren't even hooked up. This had impending disaster written all over it.
The amount of shock seems to change based on geography and weather conditions. The humidity in the air is the biggest factor. When it's dry there's more static.
I cannot remeber all the remedies, but some that come to mind are spraying the seats with static guard spray, or maybe rubbing them down with a bounce sheet. Changing to a tire with a higher carbon content would be an expensive fix. Some research here on Edmunds or elsewhere for fixes used on the Hondas would work for you as well.
i'm considering a performace upgrade including fipk kit,exhaust system, and performace computer or chip.
Called the service desk at the dealer and had them look it up -- "Major Evap System Leak" or something to that effect. i.e. the you-didn't-screw-on-your-gas-cap code. Which is kind of odd, since the last time the gas cap was off was Saturday (today is Wednesday) and the Truck has been driven most of 75 miles since then.
My fear is that the replacement fuel pump module might have a leak somewhere, but I'm unclear on whether that could throw the code as well?
Any thoughts? Truck is an '01 4.7L 2wd, in case anybody has a directory of codes handy.
twj
It is possible that it has taken since Saturday for the requirements of a complete "trip" to be satisfied. The EEC tests are only run under specific conditions which may be several days in between.
YES! it is likely that the fuel-pump assy may not have been seated, a hose not clamped, or some such thing. It does not take much of a leak to throw a code.
Your dealer has special tools to "manually" run the EEC tests and locate the leak. I have had several problems such as this (due to a porkupine nibbling on hoses at night) and my dealer was very efficent at locating the leaks quickly.
Mileage is 14,932, trip cpu avg mpg say: 13.9mpg Really is 9.927mpg presently,,,, as I only have a drive of 3.6 miles to work 1 way...
any suggestions?
http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/per/4634.html
According to this individual, K&N stated the hp increase to be a maximum of 7.3 hp at 4700 RPM. This is probably at the rear wheels, so 10 hp at the crankshaft might be plausible. I've poked around the K&N website, but a can't find any reference to a 16 hp gain for the 4.7L FIPK. Did K&N send you these numbers?
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/bl-obd-main.htm
P0161
Oxygen sensor 2/2 heater element performance or rationality malfunction.
the first part of this description is clear however WHAT DOES (RATIONALITY MALFUNCTION) MEAN?
THIS WAS TAKEN FROM THE FOLLOWING WEB SITE http://www.obdii.com/obdii.html
P0161
Oxygen sensor 2/2 heater element performance or rationality malfunction.
the first part of this description is clear however WHAT DOES (RATIONALITY MALFUNCTION) MEAN?
THIS WAS TAKEN FROM THE FOLLOWING WEB SITE http://www.obdii.com/obdii.html
Robert
I hope this thing holds up. I read on dodgedakotas.com that other people say their transmission clunks as well. I don't know if its anything to be worried about or not. On the bright side, the 5-speed in the dakota is the same one they are now putting in the Ram, so it should be ok, since the Ram is a much heavier vehicle.
I like the 5-speed overall, except for the loud clunking if you shift wrong or let the RPMs drop too much on a shift.
performance chips are now available for 4.7 at asechips.com
ASE Performance Products, Anaheim,Ca.
714/632-9344, I called and talked to John,he seemed very helpful with info. The web site shows hp/torq increases, but req's 91 octane fuel.John said they can do changes according to what you want !!!! see post #1695 in accessories.
Keep on Truck-in
Lee
Roll down all your windows. Drive to 4th gear, start to slow down. Drop it into 3rd, keep the clutch in, let the RPMS drop to about 1000 , then let the clutch out. Let me know if you here a loud "clunk" as the drivetrain re-engages the engine and the RPMS jump up. I can make it do it everytime. It's not just a little "click".
Try it and let me know.
Your description sounds like the 'slop' in the rear end that we all seem to have with our Dakotas. In time, you will learn to drive VERRY smoothly. Think of it as a challange that you need to step up to. You are lucky enough to be provided the oppertunity to improve your throttle/clutch coordination.
If you are making the engine RPMs "jump up" by releasing the clutch... there is room for improvement ;-) Try to equalize the engine RPM with the throttle BEFORE easing out on the clutch.
There should be no noticable RPM transition between 'clutch depressed' and 'clutch released'.
The more powerful the engine you are driving, the more this tecqunique is important to master. You would not want to be making the engine RPMs "jump up" by releasing the clutch on a 20-ton truck with a DT466 engine. You just may leave some drivetrain parts on the road!!
As a bonus to learning proper clutch/throttle tecnique, you will find that the clutch NEVER wears out. (3 vehicles over 150,000 miles all on original clutches)
saw my dodge dealer this am but could not see the car till late pm and i work at hospital at 12 noon.took car to walmart and got can of dry gas and injector cleaner....has been in only 12 miles now..first word out of service rep's mouth was "fuel pump".....not exactly friendly!will drive vehicle 44 miles today and see what happens.
Any thoughts guys????
stephen
Bookitty
I saw your response coming from a mile away!
In a sense you're right, it was a bit of a challenge to learn to drive this sucker smoothly. I drive it very well, probably took me about 7 k to get that way (16k on it now).
The example about dumping the clutch was just to illustrate where the problem lies, not that I do that all the time. I think I actually get the clunking more often when I do a delayed upshift, like from 4th to 5th. What's very annoying is the occasional lapse in "perfect" shifting that would be totally normal on any other 5-speed out there, and on the Dakota you're rewarded with a great big "CLUNK".
I guess my main complaint is that a 5-speed really shouldn't act that way (in my opinion). I have only ever driven Fords, but in my resume under trucks: 86 Bronco II, 89 Ranger, 95 F-150, 98 F-150, 2001 Super Duty (6-speed). All these are manuals, and NOT ONE HAS ANYWHERE NEAR the slop that my Dakota has. I've never had to work as hard to drive a vehicle perfect as I did for my Dakota. I love the thing, it's a great truck, but there is just something that irks me that my Dakota clunks more at 15k then my 86 Bronco II with 135k on it. I've driven my Dad's SuperDuty 6-speed and that drivetrain is solid as a rock, exactly what I would expect on a heavy duty truck.
Normal or not, it could definitly be better. So when people ask me about how the 5-speed is, I feel it could be better. There is a looseness to the entire drivetrain, shifting, everything that just annoys me. Go take an F-150 for a ride sometime and tell me there isn't a difference, and that the drivetrain on a Dakota has to be so loose.
I'm particularly spooked because my uncle's '98 Ram 5-speed had the rear end blow out recently, not under warranty. For what it's worth the shop that fixed it said it looked like a factory defect.
So it's rear end slap, 'eh? Well, I guess rears are cheaper to replace then transmissions. We'll see!
Just a final word for those who are asking about the 5-speeds, I would be very hard pressed to get another Dakota 5-speed, I would probably go with an F-150 instead. Much more positive shifting feel, stronger feeling drivetrain overall. I think Ford matched their 4.6L engine and tranny a little better then Dodge did with the 4.7L to the NV3500. (or rear-end, or whatever).
I still think my Dakota is a great truck, and I'm not going to get rid of it, I just hope it goes the distance.
Bruce, would you say that the clunky drivetrain/lack of smoothness is indicative of a stronger overall drivetrain? I've never driven anything bigger then my Pop's SuperDuty so I'm no expert in drivetrains. I'm only giving my 'seat-of-the-pants' opinion.
There is nothing wrong, I've driven mopars over 200K miles and the "clunk" got no worse or better.
If it really bothers you that much, you might do well to get a brand X.
I have been driving manual transmission vehicles for more than 25 years including Concrete mixers equipped with 13 speed road rangers and older models with a 5 spd. main transmission and a 4 spd. auxiliary transmission next to it for a total of 20 forward speeds and 4 reverses.
Just wanted to prove my manhood with this reply and at the same time recommend the manual to anyone that desires one.
Bookitty
You are not the first person to 'complain' about their 5SP transmission. What engine do you have? Full Time 4X4? I am just trying understand your situation. (I still beleive it is the rear-end)
BTW
I have purchased all of the necessarry RED LINE lubricants to change all drivetrain units on my truck. (NV3500 tranny, NV231 Xfer case, C205F front axle and 9.25" rear)
I am especially looking forward to what the MTL will do for my transmission. It is supposed to greatly improve the shifting by making the syncronizers "Sync up" better during each gear change.
Anyway,I drove to work this am and the warning light went out and it ran as smooth as silk,maybe better than before ! Have to call that dealer and cancel the service appointment...
I will add reputable gas once it reaches half way.
thanks for the input...
stephen
Anyways...
Just to maintain that it is not my shifting, the drivetrain is noisy even when I don't shift, and just go from an off-the-gas to on-the-gas situation. This is usually if I let it glide around a corner and don't shift to a lower gear. The drivetrain will clunk when I ease back onto the gas. Kind of when the engine goes from being pushed to pushing, there is some slop somewhere in the drivetrain that makes it clunk. I've never driven a 5-sp with that amount of noise in that situation.
My truck may be out of adjustment somewhat. I'll check with the dealer at the next inspection, I'm sure it'll be "normal", which it very well may be...for a Dodge.
I have the 4.7 5spd 3.55lsd and just love it. I also agree that there is a little more of a clunk with this combo than with my previous Fords or Chevy's, but I am use to it now. I have 54K miles on mine, so I should be use to it.
Most of you know that I have been driving 43 miles to work one way, so I have racked up the miles. Not any more. Myself along with the rest of my department (Quality) was downsized last week. So the truck is just sitting in the garage. I'm looking for a job closer to home so that I don't have to drive so much. So there goes my 200K miles in 8 years goal. I guess I won't be testing the longivity of this combo. I have averaged 22.3 MPG over the life of the truck, but I know that will drop a lot if I get a job in town. My MPG always drops when I do a lot of local driving. I guess my best tank of 24.6 MPG will stand for a long time.