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Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab
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Comments
Bookitty
As for the other issues you have, the upper balljoints are a known weak spot on the 2000 dak. One of mine got pretty squeeky and I replaced with a GREASABLE "Moog" balljoint.
I am sure you are aware that the front antisway bare bushings are known to squeek.
Be aware the the front brake rotors may need attention soon too. Mine rusted terribly after 2 Vermont winters (roadsalt) I installed some powerslot rotors and the braking is much better.
Any thoughts??
By the way, after this icy winter the heated side mirrors was the one thing I'd wish I had on my Dakota.
Regards,
Dusty
Personally, I orderd the standard mirrors. Although I felt they were too small at first, I have learned to back up with them just the same.
(I have a cap on my tuck and cannot see behind me any other way)
Bookitty
Has anyone seen a quad cab pulling a 5th wheel trailer ? I want a 5th wheel trailer utility, I know I can get a box type utility but like the look of the 5th and the ride and pulling characteristics of
the 5th wheel. Also I know the towing cap of my 4x4 4.7 3.92 rear end quad. I know those ratings are rated for stopping. Would you guys think a trailer with elect 4 wheel disc brakes would allow little more towing capacity? The truck has the HD tow pkg
Whats your take on this ?
Thanks Jon
As far as towing, I have done a lot of towing with my QC. I have pulled utility trailers, pop-up campers and now I have a new camper that weighs around 3,400 lbs loaded. My 4.7 5spd 3.55lsd with P215-75R15 tires pulls it just fine. I have a Prodigy brake controller and added Air-lift air springs to the rear of the truck. The biggest weakness I found was the rear springs, but the air springs have really helped that problem.
Bookitty
Jon
LOL!
Hope the rest of your journey is safe and pleasant!
When he gets to a place he has to make tght turns, he pulls a lever and the slider hitch slides backwards to allow room between cab and 5th and when hes done he backs up and puts the lever back and the slider is back into position.
Robert
Between towing, repair (by another Dealership since I was out of town) and the cost of a new rim I'm out $900. The dealer insists that if he had not installed the wheels properly that they would have fallen off within 100-200 km after installation and that the other 3 wheels are OK. He figures that one wheel has been tampered with however I know that the vehicle hasn't been anywhere where this could have happened. The only concession I'm being offered is that he'll give me a rim at his cost plus 10% and install and balance the wheel for free. Whippee!!
The dealer said that they torqued the nuts using a torque stick at 100 ft-lbs. My question to him was how often do you calibrate them and his reply was they cost $400 so I know they work.
Any ideas for recourse????
As an aside can anyone explain how a torque stick works? When I looked at it, it looked like a drive extension and socket made from 1 piece of metal. I saw no moving parts. I don't understand how the air gun gets feedback to limit the torque.
I always torque mine to 90ft/lbs .... then after about 50 miles... I RE-torque them to 90ft/lbs again.(The spec on my Dak is 85-115ft/lbs)
I am not familear with a "torque stick", I am aware of several different types of torque wrenches. (needle-gauge, clicker and digital-readout.) I use the "clicker" type which is priced right in the middle. (around $50 USD)
To use the "clicker" type of torque-wrench...
I twist the handle which tightens a prececion spring. There is a calibrated scale on the handle that tells me when I have reached my desired "setting". Now, when I use the the torque-wrench to tighten a fastener, when the "setting" is reached, there will be an audable CLICK that tells me that the desired torque is reached. This makes for fast, repeatable torque on multiple fasteners. (Virtually all good mechanics use this type)
The needle type is the least expensive... One just looks at a needle that will point to the amount of torque that is being applied to the wrench. It is not any less 'accurate' than the 'clicker' type... it is just slower to use because one has to LOOK at the needle while using it. The repeatability of torque settings with this type is harder to acheive.
The "digital" type is really just a gimmick (in my opioion) It consists of an 'extension' to a standard ratchit that has some wires coming out of it... the end of these wires are plugged into a digital meter which displays the torque. Although this may be cool-looking... it is not very practical to have to carry a wrench AND a meter around... you then have to LOOK at the meter while using this cumbersome assembly. Repeatability is also reduced.
All 3 of the above torque-wrenches are available at Sears.... (do you have Sears in Canada?)
Your question about CALIBRATION is a very good question indeed. The instructions with my torque wrench mention annual verification of the calibration. (If it is dropped.... it must be immediately removed from use until re-calibrated.)
Your dealers response to your inquery about calibration is just plain stupid. (Costing $400 does not make a tool immune to innaccuracy!!) (I work with $250,000 machines that need daily calibration)
BTW.... I have asked tire-installers about the last time their spin-balancing machine was calibrated.... (This machine tells them how much weight and where to put it around the perimiter of the wheel to bring it into balance.)
I'm trying to "design" an easier way to lube each of these points without so much work. I've also researched the possibility of replacing as many of the black rubber bushings with urethane but it seems these are not available.
The source of your noise problems may be completely different from mine (bad shocks, etc.) but this is what worked for me.
I've got out BOB and will look for electrical tests I can perform. If I'm unsuccessful, and you want to sell yours - let me know.
Latter on the results.
New one snapped right in but I put some dielectric grease on the heater terminals. I did this because once the old mirror was out, I ran the resistance check described in BOB, and it passed (6-8 ohms). So the heating element was still good but the contacts had enough corrosion on them to stop the heating function. Too bad that there wasn't a way to get to the contacts short of replacing (destroying) the original glass portion of the mirror at $33.
Bookitty
PS How is the weather in Florida? The weather channel showed some monster thunderstorms earlier today.
Bookitty
MQ has 265 55R20 tires which are 31.8 inches in diameter. The 17" tires I intend to put on for winter driving are 265 70R17 which are 31.6 inches in diameter. They are so close the computer won't even know the difference.
MG has the Hemi which is rated at 345 horsepower. It also came with 3.92 gears and limited slip as a requirement for the installed 20" rims. I would have preferred the 4.7 V8 but I bought from dealer stock. 4 wheel anti-lock brakes were a must for us. The only trucks that had this option had the Hemi engine as it is a mandatory option. None of the dealers in the area order any 4.7 V8 Ram 1500 or Dakota with anti-lock brakes since it is a $495 option. I did find one flaw after delivery. I have a small area of bad paint on the front fender which will be corrected when I return the truck for them to install my body side molding. I'm also considering some stainless steel nerf bars to help my wife climb into the cab. This truck makes a Ford Excursion look normal sized. The overall height to the top of the cab is 75" on my 2wd and the 4wd I looked at was 77". I had to use a small ladder to clean the center of the windshield and I'm 6'2". Well thats enough facts for now. I'll keep you updated as the miles progress.
As long as you enjoy my rambling I'll keep contributing. Rick
Mailman
Bookitty
dataguru
Mailman
The motor is so smooth that if it wasn't for the rumble of the exhaust you might think it wasn't running. The transmission is amazing. I don't recall automatic transmissions being this smooth shifting. Of course my last automatic was a Ford C6 behind a 390ci/325hp V8 in a 1968 Mercury Cougar. So far I am pleased with the Monster Quad but it is not as satisfying to drive as my Dakota Quad with the 4.7 and the 5 speed MANUAL transmission. Driving the Ram is more like driving your living room down the highway, only this is one FAST living room. Rick
You would have done well to ask here before buying. We would have told you that the 4.7L V8 has more power and better MPG that the ol' 3.9L V6
My 4.7L V8 averages about 18MPG and has touched 21MPG on the highway. It sounds like a Porsche and is smooth as glass.
According to my calculations. Based on the MPG that the the 3.9L and 4.7L provide. Figuring in the cost of fuel and miles driven. The xtra $$ I spent on the 4.7L V8 has allready been made up and it is now paying ME.
Bookitty
Ron
BTW, the day I picked up my Dakota, one of the young salesman was behind the wheel of a new Dodge Dakota V8 out in the parking lot. Just as I left the showroom he laid a strip of rubber about 20 feet long on the asphalt. That really p/o'ed my salesman. I commented "That's a major reason why I wouldn't have a V8".
Hopefully this isn't a common event at Dodge dealerships, but who knows.
"Our chief complaint with the Dakota is that the V8 models tend to be very thirsty; it's a struggle to average more than 13 or 14 mpg with those trucks."
"I recently purchased a 2003 Sport plus 4.7 litre 5speed automatic. I only get 12 miles per gallon. And if this holds up wonder if I should have spent the extra couple thousand for the 1500. The truck for someone who wants almost full size capabilities with ease of parking."
"You would have done well to ask here before buying. We would have told you that the 4.7L V8 has more power and better MPG that the ol' 3.9L V6"
Actually I'm glad I didn't look at these posts prior to buying my Quad. I asked a few simple questions regarding my Quad and I get this kind of response. Man, do you use this board to compensate for buying that V8 or what?
At 6' 6", 280 lbs. people usually don't mess with me (LOL). Haven't had to punch out too many people even though I'm not a morning person.
When I purchased my Dak. The 3.9LV6 was reportedly getting 12-14 MPG on a good day. Perhaps they have improved it over the last couple of years.
I WANTED a V8 and the Dak was the smallest truck I could get that had one. My second priority was RUST RESISTANCE and the Dodge trucks have the best in the business
If I want to get good MPG....I take my wifes Jetta TDI. At 52MPG, it is perhaps the least-known vehicle available in the USA. It gets MPG rivaling those so-called "hybreds" while being fun to drive and a very well equipped German road car. It is a treat to travel over 650 miles and put only 12.5 gallons in the tank.
Mark my words... Diesel power is posed to become very popular due to the fantastic MPG and superior torque it provides. Europe has already 'discovered' the magic of modern diesel engines. (for economy...NOT towingpower)
If the Dak becomes available with Diesel, (that is coming in the Jeep Liberty soon), we will have Dakotas getting 35 MPG.
I've probably jinxed myself (LOL). I could definitely get behind a diesel Dakota. I'm really concerned about the GM entrance into the Mid size truck market. GM execs usually have their heads in the sand (where have they been since 87?) but they eventually wake up. I know a guy who works for GM and has driven a Colorado. He says Daimler will soon be grabbing their ankles. I certainly hope he's wrong.
The 3.9 that's available today is the same block in magnum form as it was when first introduced. Now, there have been small incremental changes, like cylinder head castings have changed slightly, and camshaft profiles as well. But the basic motor block is the same.
Regards,
Dusty