Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

1…95969799101

Comments

  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    TSB 08-035-00. This applies to a specific condition. With Cruise "on" vehicle surges at 46-47 MPH and at 68-69 MPH. The fix is to replace the Anti-lock Brake Control Module. I am not sure you can purchase it due to the fact that it has to be "Programmed" with tire size and gear ratio. $$$$$.

    Dick
  • kcsamkcsam Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for the input. I took this to the dealer before my warranty was up and they did nothing, they should have pulled up that tsb and fixed the problem. Now I am well out of warranty and it irritates the heck out of me they knew there was a problem with the tsb. thanks I wish I would have known about this tsb at the time I took it in. :mad:
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    kcsam, if you have the paperwork addressing that particular problem, you may have a chance on insisting that it be corrected within the terms of warranty. Especially if there was a TSB at the time. This happened to my wife on a Toyota truck years ago. We paid for a cylinder head even though the truck was out of warranty (low miles, but time was up). I learned about the TSB and contacted the Toyota service rep. They contacted the dealer and our money was returned. The dealer wasn't happy, because we learned later that he was "double dipping" and no longer has the dealership.

    Bookitty
  • kcsamkcsam Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for the reply. I will contact the dodge regional customer service and see what they have to say about this. I did not outlay any money at the time I took it in to the dealer but by the same token, they just blew me off, and the issue has not gone away and will not go away until there is a fix. I really do like this truck very much, but on long trips, it takes the enjoyment out of driving do to the constant jerking of the cruise control. thanks again
  • jeepster89jeepster89 Member Posts: 11
    :confuse: I am experiencing a slight tapping sound when I first start my truck in the morning. It almost sounds like a lifter tapping but quits after a minute or so. The truck runs fine and no codes come up. I thought it might be the fuel injection at first but am wondering if anyone out there has experienced this?

    I just had new plugs and two new coil packs installed by the dealer. I just bought this truck and it has a 3-month or 3600 mile warrenty and want to get this taken care of under the warrenty if possible. Any body got any ideas? Thanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The 4.7L semi-hemi engine has been VERY reliable for most folks. There are no lifters on the 4.7L because it is OHC. I would not worrry about that sound.
    .
    This is the first I have heard of coil-packs needing to be replaced on any 4.7L. (What was the problem? Are you SURE the coil-packs were bad?)
  • kcsamkcsam Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2001 dodge dakota quad 5.9L 4wd... I have been noticing (just after a power steering hose came off and sprayed power steering fluid in my engine compartment) that my oil pressure guage has been fluctuating.. I have never noticed this before, (it usually sits in the middle of the high and low on the guage), now at idle, it sits on L , but as the engine revs up it goes back up to the middle of the guage where it normally would sit. Should I change the sender unit? could it have been contaminated with power steering fluid. Any thoughts. The oil level on the dip stick is ok. thanks Never noticed this problem before the power steering fluid spray in the front of the engine. thanks
  • emtsquad51emtsquad51 Member Posts: 2
    I have just recently purchased a '00 Dak QC, 4.7,4x4,auto. I was wondering if anyone has any good input on what exhaust I should get for this stock motor. I was thinking of just buying a Flowmaster 40series muffler and having my local shop bend the pipes to run from the cat back, this way I wouldn't have to buy an entire cat-back system, just have them make me one which would run a lot cheaper than buying everything from Flowmaster. Anyone else have any good ideas? I want a deep, throaty sound, but not too loud and I don't want something that will hurt my performance/economy. Thanks for any help!
  • emtsquad51emtsquad51 Member Posts: 2
    Fluctuation on the Oil Pressure is typical for any engine, as the more power you feed the engine, the harder the oil pump is pumping, therefore increasing the pressure in the engine. However, if it is dropping down into the red (which I believe is somewhere around 20psi) you may want to take the truck to your local shop and have the mechanic check the pressure before the sending unit, that way you'll know if the gauge is reading right or not. Hope this helps! :shades:
  • kcsamkcsam Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for the reply, the pressure never goes below the L on the guage, if it hit bottom I would turn off the engine. I just do not remember if fluctuating around so much before the engine compartment contamination from the brake fluid spray. Off chance do you know if the oil pressure sending unit is on the left or right side of the engine (5.9 liter )?? A mechanic I am not....... thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The tubing that is "custom bent" does not last very long. By its vvery nature, it is soft so it can be bent. It also rusts thru within a few years (where winter salt is used on the roads.)

    If you do not want to mess with the exhaust again, consider a system made of T-304 stainless steel. (lesser stainless steels will eventually rust thru) Also selecting a system made of thicker material will lower the sound-level inside the vehicle.

    I have a Borla ( http://www.borla.com/ ) system on my Dakota and it still shines like a mirror even after many Vermont winters. The sound is AWESOME on the outside.. but subdued on the inside.

    One last note about exhaust systems on the 4.7L V8. If you use tubing larger than about 2.5 inches, you WILL lose performance due to reduced velocity within the system. Dual tubes can be even worse because of the velocity loss.

    Bottom line: Unless you are drag-racing or have greatly enhanced the engine, stick with single tube all the way to the rear of the system
  • goonziegoonzie Member Posts: 1
    I've got no interest in duplicating this problem- I want it gone! I suspected the cruise control my Dakota began surging and sputtering (thought for sure it was the Tranny) while it had it on and in subsequent trrips.Mechanic said the code for the TPS came up but he thought there was something else going on causing the TPS to act as it was. I no longer use the Cruise and am replacing the TPS but the fix doesn't sound that easy by the way you talk. What's the fix- I'm sick of it!

    thanks,
    Scott
  • regnarregnar Member Posts: 10
    I own a 01 Dakota Quad with the 4.7. Lately when I turn on the right turn signal both rear light's flash as if only rear 4 way's are on. Then once all the 4way stuff was on. When this is not going on I only have one brake light that works. Has anyone else ever had this happen and if so what was the fix.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    If rear lights seem dimmer than usual, suspect a bad ground to rear lights. (the right-rear is grounding itself thru the left-rear lights. ) Technically, this is called a "ground loop" and can be easilly isolated in 5 minutes with a DVM. (Digital Volt Meter)

    I am trained in electronics and can visualize the circuit in my head.... I have been doing this for over 25 years ;-)
  • smkafordsmkaford Member Posts: 2
    What side is the tapping on? Bought it used or certified used? Does your Oil Gauge read the right amount? If not what out for it cause it might start to read alot higher than normal, still trying to figure this out........Yes I had it for alittle bit but I had my whole enginee taken apart and rebuilt so I did not get told what it was but I'll try to find out what cause the tappin in my engine..Good luck
  • smkafordsmkaford Member Posts: 2
    The ball joints for our trucks just outright suck for the manufactuer line because I was told there was a big group of 2001 dakotas, and durangos, with ball joints that had a known rubber problem. What that problem was I have no idea expect the rubber being very weak if it was old rubber re-made.
  • rushrobrushrob Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 2005 Quad cab 4.7L auto, and comparing mileage with a friend who has same in club cab except he has 6 speed. I get about 19.5 mpg and he can't do better than 15.1 mpg. Anyone else with experience with these engines and tranny's? Thanks, Rob
  • amend1amend1 Member Posts: 98
    Unfortunately, I don't know what the fix is yet. I have a hook at the regional Chrysler facility up the road from me in Orangeburg, NY. I'm waiting for a service guy to call me back. My dealer did nothing and was completly clueless. In fact, when I got it back, it had a transmission leak which I had to fix myself. As soon as I know anything, I'll shout. I too have ceased using the cruise as it's annoying as hell. Dodge, ARE YOU LISTENING?????
  • prissibritchsprissibritchs Member Posts: 1
    What was wrong with your window. Was it a fuse or was it the motor for the window?
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    The dealer replaced the window switch and I haven't had any problems since.
  • dsweetdsweet Member Posts: 15
  • dsweetdsweet Member Posts: 15
    I've reached 29,000 miles on my 2001 2WD Quad Cab Dakota and the check engine light is on. I've checked everything and it seems fine and disconnected the battery post and the light went out for about 20 miles, then back on. Is there a problem or is it just something I need to take it to the shop for?
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Todd, this morning, my right (passenger side) rear window would not open from either position. I stopped by the dealership and made an appointment for Monday afternoon. When I got back into the truck, I tried wiggling the switch once again, and it began to operate flawlessly from either switch. I went back inside, and told them that I would bring it in anyhow and was advised that if it was working, there was nothing that they could do. So, we agreed that if it continued to work I would cancel it. I suspect the motor, simply because it wouldn't function from eitther switch. While that may be logical, it may not be correct.

    Bookitty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Hey Book, how are you?

    Your problem could be the switch on the driver's side. The battery and ground feeds to operate the passenger window comes through the switch bank on the drivers door. If this switch is bad or intermittent, it could prevent the passenger window regulator motor from operating.

    I've found that in the majority of cases the problem is on the drivers side. These switches get actuated more often and are more susceptible to water corrosion from the driver's window being partially open during inclement weather.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Check for a "P" code. One of the more common causes for a check engine illumination is a defective gas cap, especially on your year Dakota.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Thanks Dusty. One can always depend upon you and/or Bruce for an answer to a problem. I wasn't certain if the poor contact (obviously the window operating after failing, leads to that), was in the switch panel, or at the motor. It continues to operate flawlessly, so for now I will cancel my appointment Monday if it continues to operate. The good news, is that it failed in the "closed" position.

    Bookitty
  • bagwingcabagwingca Member Posts: 2
    Got an 02 Quad 4x4 & am getting rattles from rear tire area. Brakes were suspected & recently cleaned . No loose brake cables. Unable to determine the cause. The dealer said"wa da ya expect ....it's a truck" . Has anyone had this prob & been able to solve it?
    Herb">
  • dsweetdsweet Member Posts: 15
    I'm a soldier and the owner of a 01 Quad Cab 4.7 and I've just returned from Germany with it. Well I have to say that Europe is not the place for a mid to full size truck or suv. I only drove my truck down town a few times and I realized I couldn't do that again because it would never fit into the parks. It was always too long, wide and someone had to slide across to get out. The tiny streets and parking spots made me regret taking it over.

    SPEED, The top speed on my Truck is 98mph before it dies! The governor is set for 98mph and it won't go any faster. It was nothing to drive 97mph for a few hours but no faster. I can run with anyone on almost anything from 1/4 mil or 98mph which ever comes first. I took it to a German dealer and he said he could remove the governor and the truck would go as fast as I wanted but there was a catch. I would have to change the rims and tires because they're only designed to go about 100mph. But on my wifes 1997 grand caravan it was nothing to drive 110-120mph for a few hours straight with no problems.

    The high speeds with the extreme cold temperatures and massive amounts of salt on the roads, my rotors are ruined from rust all over and part of the braking surface rusted away because the pads aren't making solid contact over the entire surface. I will change them this week because I read a previous article saying I should get the grooved rotors and the brake pads are in good shape still... Is this a problem??
  • dsweetdsweet Member Posts: 15
    Thanks Dusty,
    For the information and I'll check the gas cap. Over the weekend I replaced the plugs, air filter, changed the oil and disconnected the battery post. It's been two full days and the light hasn't come back on. By the way where and how would I check this "P" code?
  • regnarregnar Member Posts: 10
    I could not find the problem myself so I took it to the dealer. It turned out to be a part called a >combination switch< that controls both the turn signals and the 4ways at a total cost of $201.00 Canadian
  • regnarregnar Member Posts: 10
    Has anyone towed a fifth wheel with a Quad cab and if so what hitch did you use.
  • dsweetdsweet Member Posts: 15
    I guess I spoke too soon because the eneine light came back on and I checked the gas cap as well but no idea how to check the codes. Can anyone help?
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Cycle ignition switch on and off three times (do not start) after the third time
    code(s) will appear in odometer. Here are the list of codes:

    Bookitty

    Diagnostic Trouble Codes for OBD II (SAE J2012)Anatomy of the DTC Types of DTC's


    P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input P0104 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent P0105 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input P0109 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Intermittent P0109 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction P0111 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem P0112 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input P0114 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Intermittent P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input P0119 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Intermittent P0120 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction P0121 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem P0122 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input P0123 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit High InputP0124 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Intermittent P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control P0126 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Stable Operation P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2) P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2) P0138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2) P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2) P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2) P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2) P0142 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3) P0143 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3) P0144 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3) P0145 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 3) P0146 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3) P0147 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3) P0150 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P0151 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P0152 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P0153 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P0154 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P0155 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P0156 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2) P0157 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2) P0158 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2) P0159 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2) P0160 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2) P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2) P0162 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3) P0163 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3) P0164 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3) P0165 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 3) P0166 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 3) P0167 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3) P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1) P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1) P0172 System too Rich (Bank 1) P0173 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 2) P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)P0175 System too Rich (Bank 2) P0176 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0177 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Range/Performance P0178 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Low Input P0179 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit High Input P0180 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Malfunction P0181 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance P0182 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Low Input P0183 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input P0184 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Intermittent P0185 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Malfunction P0186 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance P0187 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Low Input P0188 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit High Input P0189 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Intermittent P0190 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0191 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance P0192 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input P0194 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0195 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Malfunction P0196 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Range/Performance P0197 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Low P0198 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High P0199 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Intermittent P0200 Injector Circuit Malfunction P0201 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 1 P0202 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 2 P0203 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 3 P0204 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 4 P0205 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 5 P0206 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 6P0207 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 7 P0208 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 8 P0209 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 9 P0210 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 10 P0211 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 11P0212 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 12 P0213 Cold Start Injector 1 Malfunction P0214 Cold Start Injector 2 Malfunction P0215 Engine Shutoff Solenoid Malfunction P0216 Injection Timing Control Circuit Malfunction P0217 Engine Overtemp Condition P0218 Transmission Over Temperature Condition P0219 Engine Overspeed Condition P0220 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Malfunction P0221 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance Problem P0222 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Low Input P0223 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit High Input P0224 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Intermittent P0225 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Malfunction P0226 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Range/Performance Problem P
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    I've seen fifth wheels being towed by Dakotas with the 6.5 ft bed, but never the Quad cab. Since the hitch has to be over the rear axle, it would only be about 2 ft behind the back of the cab. Even with a sliding hitch, it may not leave enough roon for turning. Unless you have a very small, light weight fifth wheel, the hitch weight may cause you to exceed the GVWR of the truck.
  • mcnallyschmitzmcnallyschmitz Member Posts: 1
    I'm asking for advice 'cause I got bit when buying a Toy LC. Bought one for what I thought was an average price, only to join a forum and find out that those "average" prices were for the rare models with manual front and rear electronic locking differentials. Now I ask advice.

    I'm looking at an '03 in beautiful shape, campershell, SLT, 4x4, 4.7 auto, 55,000 miles. I plan on pulling a fairly light weight trailer, but nothing real heavy. Is there any options that they came with that I should look for, such as gearing, or anything else? Also, would $19 k be out of line for it?

    Thanks
    Eddie
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Today I saw an ad for sliding fifth wheel hitch that was supposed to work on short bed trucks, like the F-150 Super Crew. It's made by Pullrite. A bit pricey at over $2000 (street price). I don't know if it would work with the narrower track of the Dakota, though since it can slide 22" either way. That may not fit between the Daks wheel wells.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    If you are going to be towing, the heavy duty service group and trailer towing package would be nice. If they aren't there, you could always add a tranny cooler, wiring, and a hitch. For a light trailer, the standard 3.55 gears should be fine. If you are towing over 3500 lbs, I would suggest the 3.92 gears. For price, check with Edmunds, Kelly Blue Book (KBB.com), the NADA guides. The price seems a little high given the high number of miles that are on it, but every market is different.
  • dsweetdsweet Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for the information and I had no idea I could do that.
    I need help with the fault that came up... The fault came up "P 0455" and after that it said "P-done" and none of this is on the fault sheet you gave me. Can you or anyone help, Thanks
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    dsweet, this is a common code:

    "P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)"

    Could be a fuel cap (just guessing) but I would wait unti Dusty or Bruce or one of the more informed members translates it.

    Bookitty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The translation for the "P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)" is.... "The diagnostics were not able to build up a slight air pressure in the fuel tank."

    This is most often a problem with the gas-cap not sealing properly. Some folks have found that the "guts" of their gas-cap had corroded so badly that it was leaking fumes to the atmosphere. (although it APPEARED to be in good shape.)

    Other folks have found that one of the Evaporative Emission Control System hoses had popped off. The Evaporative Emission Control System charcoal canistor is located UNDERNEATH the vehice just behind the drivers door (on the inside of the framerail) It is easy to lay under the vehicle and verify that all the hoses are connected to it.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    dsweet, I told you that Dusty or Bruce would "save the day." The calvary has arrived.

    Bookitty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    To add to Bruce's comments, on older Daks the common area for a split in the fuel vapor return lines occurs where the two evaporate hoses come close to the steering column under the hood. You will find a plastic hose coupler that joins two ends together. These have a tendency to split as they age. They've since been replaced with a metal coupler.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dsweetdsweet Member Posts: 15
    Thanks Guys and you both were right. I checked both places and both hoses were dry rotted and had split to the point that they were just sitting there. I replaced all the hoses and later that day the light went out! Thanks Guys and this is truely a great site that I'll have everyone I know to check out.

    Thanks
  • thagoochthagooch Member Posts: 1
    Hey everyone. I'm upgrading the stereo in my 03 Dakota QC and am having problems with the back seat. It's not really a problem, I'm just wondering if anyone can tell me if there is a latch to allow the back rest of the back seat to fold down, so I can get behind it. I can't seem to find one and it appears to be secured to the back wall so I assume I have to un-bolt the back seat and take the whole thing out. I would really like to recess a couple of speakers behind these seats, so any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks. :)
  • bwaygirlbwaygirl Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking at buying a 2003 Dakota, the guy says it has either a 5.4L or 5.9L v8, with the proper hitch, will the Dakota be able to tow my travel trailer, dry wieght is 5600, but Gross weight taps out at 7500 [I'd don't think I'll ever be at full load, probably not more than 7100-7200 lbs. Will that engine be able to tow my trailer? I think it's a quad, short bed.
    I love the Dakota, but I need to be able to tow my travel trailer which I also love and already own.
    Thanks in advance
    bwaygirl
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    The tow ratings for and 03 QC with the 5.9L are 4350 lbs with the 3.55 axle ratio and 5950 lbs with the 3.92 ratio. Those weights are for a fully loaded trailer, and don't include all the passengers and cargo in the truck, which also need to be factored in. If the trailer's empty weight in 5600 lbs, you'll probably easily add 1000 lbs of cargo (propane, water, and stuff) to the trailer and the truck. Even with the 3.92 gears, you're probably beyond the capability of the Dakota.

    You might try looking at a full-size 1/2 ton with a mid-sized V-8.

    Good luck in your search!
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    Add my name to the list of this failure.

    I lost all low speeds a couple of months ago. Still had high speed.

    Picked up the new part this morning at the dealer.
    w/tax $10.52
    Will replace this weekend.
    Should be an easy fix, 2 screws and a plug.

    Otherwise the 01 Quad Cab truck has been a fine. 45k miles on it now.
  • csmith5csmith5 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 1993 QC 4x4 with a 3.9 L and manual transmission. It runs great, but I have no owners manual (at the moment). The sticker on the visor says to shift into 4H, shift while the vehicle is in motion. Do I depress the clutch while shifting?
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    csmith, there is no need to use the clutch when shifting from 2WD high into 4WD high or shifting back from 4WD high to 2WD high. The transfer case (drop box) is not controlled by the clutch. It is better if you are traveling in a straight line. But, do not attempt to shift into 4WD low range unless from a full or dead stop. Sometimes, you might even have to go into reverse and then stop to engage 4WD low. It can be tricky.

    Bookitty
  • csmith5csmith5 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you very much for the info, Bookitty!
    Csmith5
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.