Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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premium package wood grain trim 12,000 miles
Alternatively, the dealer offered me a 48 month lease, 12K miles per year, at $585 monthly including tax.
I typically drive under 10,000 miles a year, and keep a car anywhere up to 7 years (although in recent years far less than that).
Each way I run the numbers, it seems as though it's a toss-up to lease or buy, and everyone I know says "don't lease if you can buy."
Your thoughts?
A different type of question for you. I know that to get the money factor you divide the % lending rate by 2400, and to get the % lending rate you multiply the money factor by 2400. And I know this is true regardless of the length of the lease. Just out of curiosity, what is the significance of 2400. Where does it come from ? Thanks.
For a 39 month lease, 15K miles/year and $2,000 down, the quote was for a monthly payment of $374.14 including all taxes and fees.
It was like pulling teeth to get all the financials. The best I could get was:
residual value of 54%; Adjusted resid. value of $13,807.80; Buy rate of .0024 (Subaru rates-- iI assume this is the money factor?);
Cap Cost: $24,275.07; taxes $676.51 (6% in NJ);
inception fees (bank fee and first payment) $1,005.56; Downpayment (after inception fees) of $1,484.44 (includes $500 rebate)
I could not get a fixed number for the actual price of the car.
Any thoughts on the terms, CarMan?
BTW, ActionDan, what dealers have you considered? Which was easiest to deal with?
Thanks.
rablaw
Best regards to you.
I mixed up the 36 and 39 mo. figures.
for 39 month lease:
money factor is the same - .0024; , but res. value is 52% Adj res value is $13,296.40
Taxes $707.20 Cap cost is $24,295.83
Thanks again.
rablaw
I emailed requests for quotes from several dealers, through Edmunds. Hillside Subaru was the ONLY one to respond.
I would appreciate it very much if you can calculate my lease payments, assuming minimum down. '06 M-B E350, MSRP: $50,850. Sales price: $48,000. Invoice: $47,322. 39 month lease with 12K miles/year. Tax rate is 8.25%. Thanks.
I am looking at doing a 3 year 15k mile/year lease on a 2005 4Runner SR5 V6 in Houston, Texas. I was wondering if you have the residual and lease factor numbers for such a vehicle. I think I am in TFS Gulf Coast region. I certainly appreciate the help!
-Dave
Thanks for your help!
Jeff Kahn
I would be more than happy to calculate a lease payment on the Honda Accord that you are interested in for you to give you an idea of how much you will have to spend to get it, but I need you to provide me with its full MSRP first. As far as gap insurance goes, I believe that American Honda Finance Corp. (Honda's captive finance company through which most Honda leases are run) includes gap insurance at no additional charge in its leases. If this is indeed the case, there would be no need to pay extra for it.
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The first two numbers that you need to know when negotiating a lease of a vehicle are its full MSRP and selling price. The selling prices of leased vehicles can be negotiated, just as if you were paying cash for them. It is much simpler to negotiate the best possible selling price on the vehicle that you want to lease than it is to let dealers play with its payment. Once you have arrived at an attractive selling price, try to find out the lease money factor and residual value that are being used to calculate your vehicle's lease payment. It is important to know your vehicle's money factor because dealers often have the ability to mark-up banks' base money factors for vehicles to add additional back-end profit to deals. Toyota Financial Services, current 36 month, 12,000 miles per year base lease money factor and residual value for a lease of a 2005 Sienna (non-Limited) should be .00142 and 61%, respectively. You can plug these numbers into the formula that is outlined in the article that I provided a link to to calculate an approximate monthly payment on the van that you want.
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You can determine approximately how much it will cost you to get out of your current lease by comparing its purchase price to its value on the open market at this time. You should place a call to the bank that you are leasing your vehicle through to find out its exact price. Once you know exactly how much money it is going to cost you to buy your leased vehicle you need to compare it to its current value on the open market. You can find out approximately what your vehicle is worth by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You also may want to stop by the following discussion: "Real-World Trade-In Values". One of our most knowledgeable community members, Terry, frequents that discussion and he is often kind enough to give community members who give him an accurate description of their vehicles with his opinion on their value. Don't forget to check to see if you are still on the hook for your remaining lease payments. The difference between your leased vehicle's current value and how much it will cost you to buy it plus any remaining lease payments that you are obligated to pay will equal the cost of getting out of your lease right now. You may find that you are better off waiting until you are closer to the scheduled end of your lease to get another new vehicle.
I don't think that purchasing two new vehicles from the same dealer will strengthen your bargaining position much. If you are a strong negotiator, the last thing that a dealer is going to want to do is sell two vehicles to you for much less profit than they could sell them to a normal customer.
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I wish that I could give you an idea of what Subaru's lease program is currently like on the 2006 Forester, but I have not seen its numbers for this model yet this month. I suggest that you comparison shop with a few dealers for two reasons, to make sure that you are getting the lowest possible selling price and to make sure that the lease money factor that you were quoted is this vehicle's base factor. Once you have established what this vehicle's actual money factor is and have been quoted an attractive price, you can double check how much your monthly payment will be by plugging the numbers that is outlined in the above article.
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For feedback on how much you should expect to get for your BMW if you trade it in, look up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You also may want to stop by the following discussion: "Real-World Trade-In Values". One of our most knowledgeable community members, Terry, frequents that discussion and he is often kind enough to give community members who give him an accurate description of their vehicles with his opinion on their value.
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Could you please give the residual and MF for the 2005 Altime 2.5s assuming 36mo and 15,000miles. Thanks so much...if the residual is around the 57% you quoted for the 3.5se, I may opt for the smaller guy
I have a couple of concerns about leasing. The largest is, I have never leased a car before and the negotiating of a lease seems more complicated than a purchase. But, people lease everyday and with some research, I suppose I could negotiate this also.
My main concern though is the mileage this car will be driven. It will be my wife's car and she hardly drives any miles. Her current car is 35 months old and has 25,000 miles. Just today she has taken a new position in her company that moved her closer to home. Her round trip from home to work to home is now 4 miles.
Based on Infiniti's lease, it would be 39 months and 12,000 miles per year, or 39,000 miles for the entire lease. Based on her new job, I am estimating less than 25,000 miles for 39 months. If I were to do a lease, and turn it in at the end, I feel as if I would be leaving many miles on the table, miles that I paid for and did not use. And if at the end of the lease I purchased the car, then I have to ask why I do not just purchase it up front.
Any advice?
Thanks,
Ian
at $28,068. Residual is 58%, money factor is 0.00104. Lease is for 39 months at
at 15k miles/year. I was quoted (telephone) $349 month with all fees except security deposit of $350, and taxes rolled in. I am a NY state resident. My question to you is if this is a good monthly rate.
Also, do you think the rate/money factor will go down for Aug?
thanks,
06 BMW 325i, manual transmission, power seats, sat prep. purchase price 31,165. MF .00265, Residual 20,500. 36/mo.. pmt 472.01/mo. At closing 1247.60 (includes 1st pmt, security dep (which he says can be used as the last pmt), title and tax. Does not include tag).
Thanks!
Could you tell me what the typical lease payments are for the following:
Lease terms:
3 year 15,000 per year
Zero down sign and drive
Honda CRV - SE
Honda Pilot
Thank you
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(B) You could continue to drive the car until it reaches 36k miles in a year or so. At that point, every additional mile you drive costs you $.20 in penalty. Find out what the early purchase/termination costs are at that specific point in the lease and calculate how many miles you can drive at $.20/mile to equal that termination amount. Once your mileage penalty equals your termination charges, you can logically take the hit to end the lease knowing that continued driving will only net you a bigger loss.
(C) You could also drive the car until the lease expires and then buy it for the residual you agreed to.
The big problem with (B) and (C) is that you now own a car that has a ton of miles and you're upside down in it. I did the same thing with a past leased car. Bought it at the end of the lease and then promptly sold it to a guy. If I had turned the car into the leasing company, I would have owed $4,000 in mileage penalty (yes, I drove the wheels off it :sick: ). But instead, I sold it to him for $3,000 less than I had paid for it. My net loss was $3,000 instead of $4,000.
Please advise, what is the current money factor rate for current owner of a BMW still making payments to BMW Financial, I understand a loyalty rate may be offered. Also, what is the current % residual for X5's? Lastly, can you tell me if residual % is on net cap cost or purchase price? Thanks.
Please also advise on the lowest M.F. I should be able to get from Volvo or independent banks if I have an excellent FICA score of 750+ for a 3 year 12k mile/yr lease. I was told by one dealer that the higher the FICA score, the better rates I could get.
And what would be the residual % for 10K and 12K leases?
Finally, you are absolutely right about not paying a big down for a lease. I made that mistake before and I should learn from it. I had leased a 2004 S60 and it was rear-ended by a drunk driver at 40 mph while I sat dead-stop in traffic. I received back and neck pains but walked away without internal injuries or cuts. But the 6 month old car was totaled. The insurance company paid $25K to cover a $27K outstanding lease (the gap insurance picked up the rest). But I lost my down payment (a $4,500 trade in) essentially.
Volvo XC90 AWD 2.5T with Climate, Versatility, and Premium.
He claims MSRP is 43,579 (according to Edmunds it is 43955). He is basing lease on value of 37,995. According to Edmunds, invoice is 40,755.
36 months and 12k miles per year
$5k down
Monthly rate: 400.13 (before tax), 433.14 (after tax)
Any help is much appreciated...
Jeff Kahn
davidw2
Could you please give the residual and MF for the 2005 Altime 2.5s and 2.5w/SL package assuming 36mo and 15,000miles. Thanks so much...if the residual is around the 57% you quoted for the 3.5se, I may opt for the smaller guy
This is the quote i am getting from one dealer...
2005 9-3 Arc Sedan Black
MSRP: $32320.00
INVOICE: $31075.00
YOUR GM SELLING PRICE: $29536.00
Lease Rebate is $3000.00 ...so price is aprox $26536.00
OPTIONS:Black/Slate Gray Appointed Leather, Sentronic Automatic Transmission
Does the selling price seem too high? because based on the SAAB website the GM discount should be $26,253 and then minus the 3500 lease. Is it me that's missing something or is he trying to hide more money?