Subaru Crew - Modifications II

hypov · May 2001

guess it was meant for me.
Didn't learn much then and haven't been using much grey matter now either accept think to up stuffs like "URNSO" on license plate...;)

bigfrank3 · May 2001

I think manufacturers have ignored superchargers primarily because of the MPG issue. They have been busy developing things like electric fans and power steering units to get away from the loss associated with belt driven accessories. They want to go to 48 volt systems so they can power even more stuff.

The supercharger technology has evolved though, with superchargers like the Whipple. Their FAQ is pretty good

http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/faq.html.

I especially like #6, #7,and #8.

Regards,

this Frank

hypov · May 2001

Er..."this Frank".
Maybe in two years there may be even better s/c evolution(s):)

locke2c · May 2001

That's possible, but it won't be because the Whipplecharger is new. It isn't, unless you consider 1985 new. ;-)

Whipplechargers are also not the only screw-type supercharger. Autorotor makes one.

Reliability and maintenance interval length is not as good as roots blowers, and cost is higher. Thus the roots blowers are still "good enough" for use on GM's pushrod 3.8V6.

-Colin

bluesubie · May 2001

The new Sport Compact Car has an article on s/c's. I haven't had a chance to read it yet though. Dave, SCC another good source of information.

Dennis

hypov · May 2001

picked up the SCC at lunch.
Thanks

bluesubie · May 2001

Just realized it's the July issue. Not sure if that's on newsstands yet. There's also an article on turbos.

Dennis

hypov · May 2001

Dennis - figured something was amissed (June Issue) in the mag. Oh well, it is still good reading.

Cheers

entoman · May 2001

Thanks for your information re: radio removal on a 2K OBW. I came close to fubaring it, but was finally able to get the two screws above the ashtray out...everything else went easily. Sometimes it pays to walk away for awhile! Do you, or anyone on this list, have any experience w/ fuse taps? I used two taps to power my CD, however, the power is constant and not controlled by the ignition switch..I think my choice of using the trailer fuse was wrong. Any suggestions???

Sorry for the long post and TIA.

Herb

originalbitman · May 2001

Herb -

Glad it all went so well. I know the screws you are talking about and can appreciate your frustration. As for fuse taps... I know nothing. Sorry.

bit

lucien2 · June 2001

got my front tower brace on last ight, which is a nice, subtle addition to the GT's handling at speed. I was getting ready to bolt the 18mm sway bar up, but....
I did a little exit ramp tooling around this morning and found that the rear end is willing to step out and curtail any push with with a little throttle lift. I am now worried that an 18mm bar is going to be a bit much for the otherwise stock suspension, and that I may end up with a snap oversteer-prone set up if I do. Anyone have any experience with a bigger bar on the stock stuff?

kens · June 2001

This weekend I had some time so I went in and disabled the alarm "chirp"/"bark" when arming/disarming the factory alarm unit on my Forester. I've always noticed that the chirp was fairly loud compared to those on other alarm systems.

The process took under an hour. All you need to do is:
- Remove lower dash trim by undoing two screws and one plastic tab
- Unplug keyless remote unit (located behind fuse box)
- Detach keyless remote unit from harness
- Open unit and move dipswitch #5 from ON to OFF
- Reverse process and you're done!

Now I can silently arm/disarm my Forester. Also, I learned that dipswitch #3 also toggles the passive alarm setting. It's normally off unless you ask your dealer to enable it.

Ken

armac13 · June 2001

we must have different alarms. With my factory alarm I went to silent by holding both buttons down together for 2 seconds - silent arm/disarm.

Ross

originalbitman · June 2001

Both buttons for 2 seconds works on my 01 GT as it did on my 00.

bit

kens · June 2001

Ross,

The factory alarms for Subarus in North America are manufactured by other big-name alarm manufacturers. In the US, Alpine makes the Forester/Impreza alarms. The Legacys get yet a different type. My guess is that you have a different (and a more flexible) system from ours.

Ken

subearu · June 2001

Our '00 Outback has the key fob disarm type, just like Bit and Ross.

-Brian

bigfrank3 · June 2001

My '01 Foresters use the 2 button approach also.

Regards,
Frank

hypov · June 2001

I think Ken permanently (via switch) turned off the chirps. I'm pretty sure his fobs will silent arm/disarm with 2 buttons. I'm assuming this cause my alarm sys (not OEM) could turn off chirps (minus procedure) or silent arm/disarm (1 button).

bluesubie · June 2001

The pressing of two buttons works if you have the ovoid Alpine fob. It won't work if you have the rectangular(?) Code Alarm fob because that will set off the panic feature.
Dennis

kens · June 2001

The 98-00 Forester/Imprezas must have a different alarm system, then.

My key fob is rectangular with two equally a LOCK and a UNLOCK button. There is no way to get rid of the chirp other than to open up the unit and change the dip switch position. Pressing both LOCK and UNLOCK together is how you set off the panic feature.

The remote programming instructions are here.

The alarm sliencing instructions are here.

Ken

hypov · June 2001

like Dennis noted, "Alpine" and "Code Alarm".
My '98 OB would have had Code Alarm, but I opted for after-market instead.

hciaffa · June 2001

The Impreza and the Forester use the Code alarm brand and the other Subarus use I beleive its the Alpine brand. I had to have my alarm serviced when we first got the Forester and the dealer couldn't figure out how to correct it so he sent me to a Code Alarm dealer/repair shop and he explained that the Forester has the low end system by Code Alarm and it is not able to have the alerm set to silence unless you move one of the rockers on the units programable switch. While the Outback and Legacy hvae a silencing method of holding down two buttons to silence the alarm.

p0926 · June 2001

Well then I'm glad that they switched to the Alpine alarm for the 01 Forester. One of the first things I did after picking up my Forester was to silence that annoying chirp.

-Frank P.

armac13 · June 2001

same here.

Ross

originalbitman · June 2001

I only wish I could silence the chirp on other cars too.

bit

hypov · June 2001

your other car(s), or everybody elses?... ;-)
another reason I went aftermarket; my chirps are adjusted to a high pitch and volume soften that it sounds like a cricket (blending in with nature).

originalbitman · June 2001

Everybody elses of course.

bit

kens · June 2001

Ah, so it looks like there were other improvements in the Foresters afterall. You guys are lucky -- having to take apart the dash and work in the jumble of wires wasn't my idea of weekend fun.

Personally, I wish the alarm could use the horn to indicate armed/disarmed. Our Jetta does this by sounding a muted and short "honk" when the system is armed. It's a lot less irritating than the electronic chirps.

Ken

bluesubie · June 2001

Here is a picture of the Alpine.

I like this link because I told this dealer how to disengage the chirp. :-)
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/subaru/126/what_s_new_1999.htm
Dennis

paisan · June 2001

My trooper is silent, it just flashes the parking lights. If you try to arm it after it's armed, it does a quiet horn honk.

-mike

bluesubie · June 2001

The Alpine alarms just flash the lights after you do the button fix.
Dennis

bigfrank3 · June 2001

They now use the horn for the alarm on the '01 Foresters. I believe only 1 of the 2 horns provides the "honks" for the alarm, but I still wish it were muted a bit.

Regards,
Frank

seamus3 · June 2001

so i took my rims off and i am selling them. i had a really bad experience. i was parked downtown, seattle, at a garage. i was out with a couple of friends. when we came back to my car one, just one, of my rims was missing. the lugs were on the ground. i think we interrupted who ever was stealing my rims. i was soooooooo mad. luckily i bought 5 when i got them, just in case. i never thought i would have to replace a stolen one. so now they are all off and my stock rims and old yokes are back on. anyone who lives in seattle don't use the pike place market parking garage. the security there sucks. i am looking for a set of less conspicous legacy GT rims, 16's or 17's. anyone know how much they SHOULD cost from a dealer?

originalbitman · June 2001

I just priced the 16 inch GT alloys at my dealer and they are $230 each.

bit

paisan · June 2001

Did you have locking lug-nuts on the car? Not that they do much to slow down theives, but they help.

-mike

evilizard · June 2001

Try www.tirerack.com
I bought a alloy rim AND 40K mile tire from them for less than $100 for my 96OB a few years back. You have to call them up though, they only show their high end rims on the web site.

ateixeira · June 2001

Try Discount Tire Direct, too. Look under their specials - I've seen rims for $70-110 that would fit. $230 seems a bit steep, unless they are very light and forged instead of cast.

Loosh: I have the front strut brace and went from 13mm to 18mm in the rear (sound familiar?), and no snap oversteer here. It does wag the tail in the snow, but you never swap ends. The AWD shifts power to the front when the rears drift, and it pulls you back in line. Just stay on the gas, or you'll upset the balance.

I say install it and then try it out in an empty parking lot, maybe on a wet day.

-juice

qbrozen · June 2001

I was just about to ask that question, juice.

I just ordered a 20mm for the rear, though (i ordered from mofugas and they didn't even show the 18 on their website). Hope I won't overdo it. Oh well, guess I'll find out. If so, maybe I'll just go with a heavier bar up front, as well. Anybody done this on their Forester?

I also ordered the front strut brace. Does anyone have the rear brace? I was thinking about it, but figured it would just be too annoying to have to remove when you need the cargo space.

kens · June 2001

Wow, a 20mm rear on a Forester. I don't know of anyone with one yet. I'd love to hear how that would feel. Since the 18mm still generates a good amount of understeer, you may have enough "play" with a 20mm.

I don't know of anyone who's swapped front bars on a Forester. Some Impreza owners have, however. The rear strut brace isn't too bad to remove from what I hear -- it's just some screws -- shouldn't take too long.

Ken

lakepop · June 2001

I have a 20mm sway bar on my 01 Forester L/at. Although those who do not have it say it is too much ...I have yet to experience any negative effects. I do a lot of spirited driving on twisty and snow covered roads in western New York. If anything I find it to be quite neutral. I add that I also travel the New York thruway frequently and also find that my comfort zone for exit speeds has icreased since the 20mm add.

I also have a front sway bar / air intake and brospeed muffler. I only need to add better tires to complete my performance mods. This is my daily driver and I have a street rod/cruiser to fill the other needs.

qbrozen · June 2001

What intake did you get? Where did you get it? Did it make a noticeable difference?

What you're doing to yours is basically where I'm going with mine. Not too much, just enough.

Actually, I want to go a little further. I'm hoping for a ~1" spring drop kit. I definitely don't want to go with the 3" drop that is available, but about 1" would be nice (and a little extra stiffness with that). I haven't seen anything yet (if anybody knows of a kit, please share).

thanks
Qbrozen

lakepop · June 2001

The intake is from JCSports..I know lots of people have issues with them...I was well served.

As far as performance..I would be pressed to give a definitive answer...but my butt dyno says the intake/muffler add upped the ante. The muffler is almost as quiet as stock ...the intake howls under hard acceleration--which is just right for me.

As much as I like the way a lowered Forester looks ...I want to be able to put it back to stock when new car time arrives. Right now all my mods are easily reversed.

Hope this helps..

qbrozen · June 2001

Well, I read somewhere that the JC intake only helps in upper RPMs, but actually takes away at the low end. Not sure if that's true, but until someone can prove otherwise with an actual dyno result, I'm not going for it. So, I'll keep looking for the right one. I heard the TRI is good, but their site still isn't fully up and running yet, so I can't even see it (and they haven't answered my email).

Selling the vehicle later is one of the reasons why I only want to drop it an inch or so. Unless its right next to another Forester, most buyers won't even be able to tell. But, if I chose to, I won't mind switching it back. I'm holding on to all of the stock parts for such an occasion.

I'll have to look into that muffler.

thanks.

locke2c · June 2001

Buy one of Larry Ganz's intakes, they keep the torque chamber intact. That's the black plastic box mounted on top of the throttle body... its purpose is to provide an immediate source of air for low- and mid-range throttle transitions. If the air box were even bigger, say like 10L or even 20L, it would be of even larger benefit. (Don't underestimate how much air the engine draws and how quickly.)

An elbow that eliminates this "box" will loose low-end and mid-range power, and high RPM gains will be exaggerated because the seat-of-the-pants experience goes from a considerable loss down low to a small gain up top.

Hope that makes sense. If not, just trust me that if you don't have forced induction you NEED the torque chamber.

-Colin

kens · June 2001

Colin,

Do you know of anyone who went the other way and made intake modifications to increase low-mid range torque?

Have you tried out the Kartboy yet? Just curious about your opinions.

Ken

qbrozen · June 2001

where would I find a Ganz intake? website address?

Is that what the box is? torque chamber, huh? Ya learn something everyday.

Ken, what Kartboy are you talking about? The only thing I see on their site is a MAF filter mount. Do they have something else that is not on their site? Unless you mean to just take that mount and stick a cone filter on it and be done with it.(?)

lakepop · June 2001

Consider this...how much air does the throttle body ask for when you mash the throttle ...and how much air is "stored in the torque box".

I'm betting the torgue box is useful if you have the complex/noise reducing stock intake ...but given an air intake free flows air very rapidly under demand...I have different thoughts on the results.

Also consider this..it is well established that to increase output on a NA engine you need to increase the air in-air out equation. The engine can be considered an air pump if you will.

The real issue becomes one of fuel flow once you start bumping up the air thang. You can get to a lean condition if you go overboard and this is BAD.

I freely admit I am not an expert.. a lot of what I know is based on older technology.

OK....just my .02

qbrozen · June 2001

Well, theoretically, the computer is going to take care of it. A "too lean" condition shouldn't really happen unless you manage to fool the computer somehow. I could be wrong; I'm with you on the older technology thing. But, a carbureter is a different story; it doesn't have a computer to adjust its mixture.

I think the only trick to our Soobs is cutting back on the stock restrictive intake (and exhaust). That thing has more twists than the pipes under my sink! I know, I know, its there for rough weather/roading conditions and I'm sure it helps in that area. But, I don't need it. I don't plan on barreling through a lake anytime soon.

soon2bsubee · June 2001

Rob,

here is the link

http://www.ImprezaRS.com/products.htm#my00intake

kens · June 2001

Actually, the Kartboy I was refering to is the short throw shifter. I gave Colin my old one and wanted to know if he installed it yet.

Ken

Subaru Crew - Modifications II

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