The filter would be for the OB too. She also needs to get some HVAC bulbs replaced so maybe we could do it all at once.
Colin - I'm sitting here looking at the Britsh mag Japanese Performance. The WRX STi V5 Type R can do 0-60 in 4.3 secs! That's close to a motorcycle. Only if.
Dennis- those mirrors look to adhere to the windshield, but I think the mount could be removed for use with the pre 2K MYs. As for wires, guess it would be those from the overhead map-lights.
Good point about the 0-60 Dennis, but there's no comparison when you look at quartermile times, 50-70 acceleration, etc. even when you're comparing against a 15 year-old bike. (of course, it's a low mileage, excellent condition bike.)
Dennis, the auto dim mirror does mount on the windshield, it is intended for Model year 2000 on.
I guess if you were determined enough it could be retrofitted, the wire harness is already there for it from model year 2000 on so you would also have to run your own wire harness.
I am not even sure myself if I am gonna get an STi if it comes. Reason being that if the EVO along and offers a better overall car package, i would get that. The new GDA imprezas do not getmy blood pumping at all even thought the WRX are faster than my RS. Besides, there will be alot of new sports cars coming out too. So... yup. Hope Subaru comes up with an SVX successor with manual tranny! Also colin, i've not been modding my car either. But still maintaining the car as best as I can.
These are becoming quite popular on the WRX. They come in flat black and need to painted in order to match WRX. Some folks have left them unpainted. Looks as such on the black WRX but I prefer the painted look on the other colors. The prices are between $550 & $650
Hi - I have not been around for a while!!! How is everyone?
I have a question - anyone have any experience with or know where I can get hints on installing the Subaru 6-disc in dash changer? I am adding it to my existing stock cassette.
32K on my 2K OB Wagon and luvin' it! Thanks for your help!!!
If it is a new unit the install instructions should be with it, however it is relatively easy.
First remove the woodgrain lower panel on the console by pulling up gently then pull it back, then undo two screws after taking out the ashtray this will allow you to remove the woodgrain around the dash, start at the bottom right corner and gently pull towards you it just held by a series of bayonet clips.
Six screws hold the radio and hvac mounting remove one of the black plastic trays below the radio, mount the CD changer and plug it into the back of the radio and you are done just reassemble and enjoy should take about an hour start to finish,
On the woodgrain panel that is on top of the console just pull up enough to free the clips then pull it back if you pull it up too far you will snap off the two clips that push into the dash panel.
This is really the only precaution the two little bayonets that push into the dash are really fragile, good luck.
I stick to the adage that if you have to do alot of mods to the exterior look of the car to improve it's aesthetics, then that means the car's design team has failed. It applies to any other car.
was a real bummer, but the folks at iON Performance seem to be getting thier ducks in a row. This thread is interesting to me mostly because they are offering springs that are JDM Legacy RS/GTB spec, as opposed to making Legacy owners make do with a set really meant for Imprezas.....
Sad about Rallispec, and SPD closing down at the end of the year due to Mike having some health concerns. Personal Kudos from myself to Mike at SPD, he is a good guy.
Round lights, no BMW mention? A few of my favorite cars are the E30 3 series, and E28 and E34 5 series car. I'm also a sucker for the "angel eyes" headlight trim on the new 5 series, and at a track day at Putnam a few months back a guy in his new E39 M5 totally ate my 2.5RS naturally aspirated lunch. (my local friends are mostly all BMW guys with quite a stable: 1988M5, 1990M3 J-stock racecar, 325iX, E34M5, 2000 M Coupe, etc. - I'm the Subaru weirdo)
I-club: I don't have the energy to do much i-clubbing anymore. It moves too fast, and there's a lot of background noise there, unless you have an hour to surf/read everything it's difficult. It's changed from the good ole days when there were only a few of us. Good and Bad. Good: much more good information, vendor support. Bad: the aforementioned background noise, and the "visual tuner" crowd (how 's that?) which isn't my bag. To each their own.
My personal 2.5RS gets a set of Sparco EVO seats this week, I'm having some custom mounting subframes sent from Japan as I speak. I can't wait. My fiance' inherited my STi V5 reclining buckets for her 2002 Legacy GT.
My 2.5RS at this point is prepped beyond STS class, and Street-Mod is a whole different animal, as I think Colin discovered. Plus, I'm kiind of hooked on track racing/driving school stuff now, so autocrossing lost some of it's lustre.
Just sent one of our WRXs to Ford (short term eval), hoping to get a Focus SVT in return in the near future.
Being a student of design...I wouldn't agree that the designers failed, just that maybe there were/are other alternatives that improve the design. :-) BTW, not saying that the two alternative links I listed are necessarily improvements.
I wasn't plugging i-club, just providing a link to an offer for legacy-specific springs. My point being that a tuner methodical enough to develop springs with Legacy RS/GTB rates is worth considering , as opposed to others who simply say "yah those are fer the impreza, but they'll fit yer Legacy too!"
I only lurk the Mid-atlantic board (mercifully free of noise and, as you say, "visual tuners" heh heh) and the Legacy board (ditto)
well the seats are half done/in. I got some pretty trick BRIDE subframes/side mount brackets from Jpn. We had to modify them a bit, as the side mounts on the were too narrow. Removed the upright tabs, welded on some Sparco sidemounts, and now I'm in business. I'll probably get the passenger seat in tomorrow. Perhaps the coolest feature of these mounts is the included inboard seatbelt mount and Subaru OEM bolt supplied. I've not seen that on other setups, it will allow me to use both harnesses and stock seatbelts cleanly.
The seats I have are Sparco Evo IIs, "sympathetically" used (as Glenn Wallace might say). They're a bit too wide for me for any kind of serious racing, but for the winter and goofing around, should be fine. When the setup is complete I'll snap some pics and maybe find a way to put em up here....
One guy had Sparcos put in his Forester. It was wild!
The flat black headlights look like the rally team USA's. If you're going for that look, as a tribute to the rally team, I can imagine that being part of the package. The price is worth it if you're getting HIDs along with the rest of the package, not just the different style.
unless you plan to rally crossing or taking your car on the track. I have the 20mm rear sway bar with the stock bushings and everything is fine, no squeak or creak.
maybe I should get out my wallet and renew my photopoint account afterall, as it is handy.
the car even got a bath last night, and I found a buyer for the seats when I remove em after this winter (too wide for me, they will go into my buddy's Defender 90 in the spring!)
thanks guys! The price I got was $23 for one bushing. JC Whitney includes brackets with their bushings but they were in inches and I didn't know if I needed an exact match.
Having said that, should I go with Teagues's Sway bar link package for $78? It includes "a high tensile spring steel link fitted with ultra low compliance polyurethane bushings. Critical hardware is replaced with high tensile components to match the higher loads."
And should I change the front bushings while I'm at it?
Forgive my newbie questions...I'd appreciate any advice regarding a thicker front sway bar as well. Would that lessen body roll, but give more understeer? My goal is less understeer, less body roll.
Posted you earlier regarding Mobil one but since the subscriptions have been messed up you probably did not get it.
Anyway my question again since Mobil one seems to be the oil of choice on these boards, and I seem to recall a post where you said you were using Syntec but would use Mobil one if the cost was the same, how much better if any is Mobil;one? compared to Syntec.
The reason for the question Mobil one has only been available at some esso stations at an inflated price it is now available at our local Canadian tire stores, I have always used Syntec or Quaker state in the past but I intend to change to synthetic at next oil change.
Leave it to an i-clubber to get the info I could NEVER seem to get from SOA despite repeated e-mails to SOA & supposedly forwarded to their engineering dept.
OK...nuff' ranting...just can't stand sloppy follow-up, especially after I was told my e-mail would be fowarded to engineering and that I would get a response.
I know that it's easy to get inside the WRX seats as there is a zipper that goes around the entire back of the seats. Anyhow, I plan on investigating more. I would really like to have those heaters, especially on long drives.
Pat, I asked Colin a similar question -- which would he choose if the two oils were the same price. His answer: Mobil 1.
In theory, Mobil 1 is a true synthetic so it should perform better and last longer. In practice, I don't know if it makes any difference in our engines.
The two cost the same where I shop so I just went with Mobil 1. I recently switched from Syntec 10W30 to Mobil 1 5W30 and have been happy with the results. Cold engine startups seem less noisy and my fuel milage seems to have gone up about 1mpg. Don't know if that's due to the thinner weight or the difference oil. My guess is the former.
Mobil 1 is better on several metrics. Both Mobil 1 and Syntec are so far above mineral oils on any of those measure though that I feel no guilt in feeding my RS 'only' Syntec.
Here's another mod where the guy replaced the side bulb in the front headlamp assembly with an amber one. I believe he also did the mod above. Additionally (since the semi-side one was switched to amber) painted over the amber side marker light. You also can get clear ones and paint over them. The nightime look is most cat-like....me like. :-)
Well sure, those links are pretty good, but the bushings in question are part of the link itself and NOT the bushings you are looking for. You want the ones 5 items down- the Whiteline 20mm bushings for $22. Your stock brackets should work, but it is a beeotch to do alone. You'll need someone to clamp them closed while you screw 'em down. A REAL pain flat on your back, but do-able.
This is advice Mike Shields proffered to someone on the Outback mailing list about mods for HP:
"We do NOT recommend 'bolt-on' (e.g., K&N, pulleys, exhaust, etc.) horsepower. I will outline the reasons why these products are of questionable value. I. The possible 15-18hp gain is all at the very last 1000 rpm, so it may look like a 15 percent increase in power, but in fact, when you average over the rpm range the motor must run in each gear it is really only about a 7-8 percent gain. This assumes you run the motor to red line in each gear.
II. There is not any power gain in the 2500-4500 range that you normally run the engine in, and in fact, some bolt-on power such as more than 2.25 inch exhaust pipe will cause as much as a 10% drop in midrange power. This gives you the impression that the motor has a stronger top end, when in fact, drivability has actually suffered. III. Acceleration is a square root function of power. This means that for a 9% gain in power you only get a 3% lowering of acceleration rate or just a couple of tenths in the 0-60 time. You will soon forget this change in the car, while you will have much more engine noise and be $1000-1500 poorer for your trouble. "
Seems like strange advice from a guy who has made a tidy sum selling bolt on exhausts and pulleys. *shrug* Maybe he is just "profiling" the typical OB owner, or maybe he really is calling BS on the entire aftermarket parts business???
Thanks for the reply, anybody who doubts that synthetic is superior to dino only needs to install an oil pressure gauge and compare the two.
At very cold temperatures oil pressure builds much quicker on synthetic, and across the temperature range synthetic will maintain almost the same running pressure while dino the hotter it gets the lower the pressure which means a thinner film of oil between the bearings.
Some people maintain that as long as you have oil pressure you are good to go but if that were the case why would high performance engine builders insist on high pressure high volume oil pumps.
Ken I have no doubt about the benifits of synthetic I just wondered how much better Mobil one was.
I'm going to guess that Mike's answer was geared toward what he felt was in the best interest of a "typical" OB owner but it is kind of strange how he comes out so strongly against bolt-ons.
If you look at his answer, the bolt-ons would make sense for someone who cares about shaving every tenth of a second off their 0-60 times or drives near redline consistently.
Well it seems the tech area of hise site has been upgraded a little, with some clarification. he basically argues that changing the breathing of a 2.5NA motor is useless without changing cams. I guess Colin knew that, huh? He argues for leaving it alone and tuning the suspension for a nice, tossable fast-road tourer
I contacted Nick Duncan in the UK and ordered the rear cupholders. They are offered through the UK Subaru dealers but not presently at the stateside dealers. The total price w/shipping was $65. Just a FYI for those that may be interested.
Comments
Colin - I'm sitting here looking at the Britsh mag Japanese Performance. The WRX STi V5 Type R can do 0-60 in 4.3 secs! That's close to a motorcycle. Only if.
Dennis
Not only that, in a bike you are totally in touch with your surroundings, and your body actually becomes part of the suspension.
Totally different feel, really.
-juice
Dennis
-Dave
-Frank P.
-Colin
I guess if you were determined enough it could be retrofitted, the wire harness is already there for it from model year 2000 on so you would also have to run your own wire harness.
Cheers Pat.
-Dennis
Well, did the gear oil swap on the 626 last night, we'll see how the tranny holds up. The light is off for now.
-juice
Also colin, i've not been modding my car either. But still maintaining the car as best as I can.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/images/prodrive/bodykit/prodrive_frontlip_lights_2.jpg
The price is $739 and are DOT approved. The grille set will also be for sale for $399.
Stephen
I haven't decided which I like best.
Stephen
I have a question - anyone have any experience with or know where I can get hints on installing the Subaru 6-disc in dash changer? I am adding it to my existing stock cassette.
32K on my 2K OB Wagon and luvin' it! Thanks for your help!!!
-Howard
--Kate who does not like round headlights except on Wrangler
First remove the woodgrain lower panel on the console by pulling up gently then pull it back, then undo two screws after taking out the ashtray this will allow you to remove the woodgrain around the dash, start at the bottom right corner and gently pull towards you it just held by a series of bayonet clips.
Six screws hold the radio and hvac mounting remove one of the black plastic trays below the radio, mount the CD changer and plug it into the back of the radio and you are done just reassemble and enjoy should take about an hour start to finish,
Cheers Pat.
I appreciate the advice!! I expect to receive it Tuesday - will let you know how it goes!
-Howard
This is really the only precaution the two little bayonets that push into the dash are really fragile, good luck.
Cheers Pat.
- Mini
- Porsche
- Beetle
- those jeeps.
I stick to the adage that if you have to do alot of mods to the exterior look of the car to improve it's aesthetics, then that means the car's design team has failed. It applies to any other car.
http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=96115&perpage=25&pagenumber=2
Round lights, no BMW mention? A few of my favorite cars are the E30 3 series, and E28 and E34 5 series car. I'm also a sucker for the "angel eyes" headlight trim on the new 5 series, and at a track day at Putnam a few months back a guy in his new E39 M5 totally ate my 2.5RS naturally aspirated lunch. (my local friends are mostly all BMW guys with quite a stable: 1988M5, 1990M3 J-stock racecar, 325iX, E34M5, 2000 M Coupe, etc. - I'm the Subaru weirdo)
I-club: I don't have the energy to do much i-clubbing anymore. It moves too fast, and there's a lot of background noise there, unless you have an hour to surf/read everything it's difficult. It's changed from the good ole days when there were only a few of us. Good and Bad. Good: much more good information, vendor support. Bad: the aforementioned background noise, and the "visual tuner" crowd (how 's that?) which isn't my bag. To each their own.
My personal 2.5RS gets a set of Sparco EVO seats this week, I'm having some custom mounting subframes sent from Japan as I speak. I can't wait. My fiance' inherited my STi V5 reclining buckets for her 2002 Legacy GT.
My 2.5RS at this point is prepped beyond STS class, and Street-Mod is a whole different animal, as I think Colin discovered. Plus, I'm kiind of hooked on track racing/driving school stuff now, so autocrossing lost some of it's lustre.
Just sent one of our WRXs to Ford (short term eval), hoping to get a Focus SVT in return in the near future.
fading into the background...............
Ryan
Dennis
Stephen
I only lurk the Mid-atlantic board (mercifully free of noise and, as you say, "visual tuners" heh heh) and the Legacy board (ditto)
The seats I have are Sparco Evo IIs, "sympathetically" used (as Glenn Wallace might say). They're a bit too wide for me for any kind of serious racing, but for the winter and goofing around, should be fine. When the setup is complete I'll snap some pics and maybe find a way to put em up here....
RP
One guy had Sparcos put in his Forester. It was wild!
The flat black headlights look like the rally team USA's. If you're going for that look, as a tribute to the rally team, I can imagine that being part of the package. The price is worth it if you're getting HIDs along with the rest of the package, not just the different style.
-juice
-Frank P.
Stephen
if anybody want em/can post em, let me know
Ryan
r_plum at msn.com
I do have a price of $46 plus shipping for Powerflex but that seems awfully expensive for a pair of bushings.
I picked up a set of 4 (2 for the front, 2 for the rear) of my Trooper for $20 total.
-mike
Stephen
Try http://home.att.net/~teaguesauto/index.htm or cobbtuning.com for the bushings, but I'm afraid that price may be about right.
-juice
Ryan's stuff is here:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1182273&a=13887564
More pictures to be added later, I think. Oh and Ryan if you want different captions let me know. ;-Þ
-Colin
Mine are here, the last three photos in the album, along with the HIDs and turbo kit I saw.
Here is the seat installed (sweet!):
-juice
the car even got a bath last night, and I found a buyer for the seats when I remove em after this winter (too wide for me, they will go into my buddy's Defender 90 in the spring!)
Ryan
-that banner is red, I swear!
Having said that, should I go with Teagues's Sway bar link package for $78?
It includes "a high tensile spring steel link fitted with ultra low compliance polyurethane bushings. Critical hardware is replaced with high tensile components to match the higher loads."
And should I change the front bushings while I'm at it?
Forgive my newbie questions...I'd appreciate any advice regarding a thicker front sway bar as well. Would that lessen body roll, but give more understeer? My goal is less understeer, less body roll.
Anyway my question again since Mobil one seems to be the oil of choice on these boards, and I seem to recall a post where you said you were using Syntec but would use Mobil one if the cost was the same, how much better if any is Mobil;one? compared to Syntec.
The reason for the question Mobil one has only been available at some esso stations at an inflated price it is now available at our local Canadian tire stores, I have always used Syntec or Quaker state in the past but I intend to change to synthetic at next oil change.
Cheers Pat.
OK...nuff' ranting...just can't stand sloppy follow-up, especially after I was told my e-mail would be fowarded to engineering and that I would get a response.
http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=104241
I know that it's easy to get inside the WRX seats as there is a zipper that goes around the entire back of the seats. Anyhow, I plan on investigating more. I would really like to have those heaters, especially on long drives.
Stephen
I asked Colin a similar question -- which would he choose if the two oils were the same price. His answer: Mobil 1.
In theory, Mobil 1 is a true synthetic so it should perform better and last longer. In practice, I don't know if it makes any difference in our engines.
The two cost the same where I shop so I just went with Mobil 1. I recently switched from Syntec 10W30 to Mobil 1 5W30 and have been happy with the results. Cold engine startups seem less noisy and my fuel milage seems to have gone up about 1mpg. Don't know if that's due to the thinner weight or the difference oil. My guess is the former.
Ken
Mobil 1 is better on several metrics. Both Mobil 1 and Syntec are so far above mineral oils on any of those measure though that I feel no guilt in feeding my RS 'only' Syntec.
-Colin
http://i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=104315
Here's another mod where the guy replaced the side bulb in the front headlamp assembly with an amber one. I believe he also did the mod above. Additionally (since the semi-side one was switched to amber) painted over the amber side marker light. You also can get clear ones and paint over them. The nightime look is most cat-like....me like. :-)
http://i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=104174
Stephen
"We do NOT recommend 'bolt-on' (e.g., K&N, pulleys, exhaust, etc.) horsepower. I will outline the reasons why these products are of questionable value. I. The possible 15-18hp gain is all at the very last 1000 rpm, so it may look like a 15 percent increase in power, but in fact, when you average over the rpm range the motor must run in each gear it is really only about a 7-8
percent gain. This assumes you run the motor to red line in each gear.
II. There is not any power gain in the 2500-4500 range that you normally run the engine in, and in fact, some bolt-on power such as more than 2.25 inch exhaust pipe will cause as much as a 10% drop in midrange power. This gives you the impression that the motor has a stronger top end, when in fact, drivability has actually suffered.
III. Acceleration is a square root function of power. This means that for a 9% gain in power you only get a 3% lowering of acceleration rate or just a couple of tenths in the 0-60 time. You will soon forget this change in the car, while you will have much more engine noise and be $1000-1500 poorer for your trouble. "
Seems like strange advice from a guy who has made a tidy sum selling bolt on exhausts and pulleys. *shrug* Maybe he is just "profiling" the typical OB owner, or maybe he really is calling BS on the entire aftermarket parts business???
At very cold temperatures oil pressure builds much quicker on synthetic, and across the temperature range synthetic will maintain almost the same running pressure while dino the hotter it gets the lower the pressure which means a thinner film of oil between the bearings.
Some people maintain that as long as you have oil pressure you are good to go but if that were the case why would high performance engine builders insist on high pressure high volume oil pumps.
Ken I have no doubt about the benifits of synthetic I just wondered how much better Mobil one was.
Cheers Pat.
I'm going to guess that Mike's answer was geared toward what he felt was in the best interest of a "typical" OB owner but it is kind of strange how he comes out so strongly against bolt-ons.
If you look at his answer, the bolt-ons would make sense for someone who cares about shaving every tenth of a second off their 0-60 times or drives near redline consistently.
Ken
-mike
http://i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=102689
Stephen