Subaru Crew - Modifications II

locke2c · November 2001

I've seen them in person. I think they would be fine if you paint them to match the body color-- yes I know they're black plastic and you have a black '98 RS... but they still would need prep & paint.

Besides that, yeah they looked fine if you like four round lights... and they work well, but that's with bulbs that are, um less than DOT legal.

-Colin

ateixeira · November 2001

Are they E-codes, basically?

My Miata has that light pattern and it is night-and-day better than what DOT mandates.

Black on black would look fine even without paint, IMO.

-juice

locke2c · November 2001

I don't know if the pattern is US or Europe. You would hope US but I didn't pay attention. What I did know if that since the morrettes have glass lenses and metal reflectors (unlike the plastic/plastic for a production headlamp) they can easily take much more than the DOT-legal 55 watt low beam and 60w high.

If I had a set I'd have at least eighty or ninety watt bulbs in there. ;-)

-Colin

ateixeira · November 2001

Gotcha, get some higher wattage bulbs.

I bet they are E-codes in pattern, too. Aren't they sourced from Europe? They usually come with a disclaimer "for off road use only".

-juice

paisan · November 2001

The other nice thing is you can get em with HIDs.

-mike

rplum · November 2001

I'm guessing they aren't DOT, but I believe the ones imported here are designed around a LHD car. They are likely labeled for Off Road use only, just like my PIAAs.

Can't confirm the construction, I haven't seen a set in person but I've read that the plastic housings are nice and thin (thin = light = good, ha ha). I probably wouldn't worry about paint. My car isn't pretty up close.

edit: spelling.

oclvframe · November 2001

Pat,

Thanks for the info.

Here is what I found out...the console cover which I already have was $25. The console box assembly is right at $100. The remaining two peices are the cupholder rubber and cap at $7 each. The switch case (I think) is the same as the 2001 so I should be able to just pop that in. Bottom line is about $150. Kinda expensive for a mod, but, when you are an anal car nut like me...its worth it!

BTW did you get the little foam doughnuts that sit in the bottom of each cupholder? There appears to be no part number for those.

-r

ateixeira · November 2001

$139 ain't bad for the whole console.

I bet you could glue some black rubber cut outs there instead.

Actually, one mod I want to do is to put a felt liner on the glove box and all the other cubby holes. I just need to take the time to do it.

-juice

hondafriek · November 2001

You need the switch case, the one in the old console will not fit the new console.

The price you were quoted is a hell of a lot less than what I was quoted in Canadian, the doughnuts I do not have a part # for,my daughter was able to source them for me.

Cheers Pat.

lark6 · November 2001

You want that Forester S dash cubby, eh juice? I guess lint is a better tradeoff than stuff sliding around and scratching up the inside. I keep a tack rag in a Ziploc bag up there. I just wish the glovebox had a light.

Ed

barresa62 · November 2001

Look great on the WRX when they are painted the same color as the body. They also provide quite a bit better ilumination then stock. I've seen up close and in person during our fun run to Mt St Helens. I highly recommmend them and am thinking about them for my WRX wagon.

Stephen

ateixeira · November 2001

Got me, Ed. Yep, little stuff like that is cool, and prevents rattles from the stuff you put in the cubbies.

A weekend in the future, I'm sure.

-juice

rangerron7 · December 2001

I'm thinking of upgrading door speakers in my 2000 OB Ltd and was wondering if anyone has done it.
I have seen Juice's excellent pics of his speaker upgrade in his Forester but it doesn't look like the OB is going to be as easy. In the Forester, there is a snap off cover that allows access to the speaker without taking off the WHOLE door panel.
On the OB, it looks like the whole door panel has to come off. Does anyone know if this IS the case?
Thanks,
Ron

hondafriek · December 2001

Yep the door panels have to come off in the outback and Legacy.

It is not a big deal There is a couple of screwas at the armrest otherwise it is just clips holding the panel on the door.

Cheers Pat.

lucien2 · December 2001

The previous owner of my GT removed the rear deck speakers, cut holes in the rear door kick panels, and builty speakers in there. He has ONE amp driving the sub PLUS all 4 speakers (and the 2 tweeters). Ugh. I would love to put rear deck speakers back in and have a 6 speaker system, but I dunno if there is a 6-channel amp out there. I'l keep the amp already in the car to run the sub on its own.

rangerron7 · December 2001

jimmyp1 · December 2001

They exist, it's just that they are still kind of considered higher end or emerging technology, and have higher end prices.

Jim

paisan · December 2001

Hey all I just got the Dunlop D60 A2s for my XT6 for the winter. High Performance All-weather. So far they are much better than the outgoing Firestone GTAs. Here is a link to the tires http://www.dunloptire.com/products/tire.html?tire=d60_a2 They were $36 @ tire rack in my size. I believe they are discontinued but if you can find em in your size they should be quite in-expensive.

-mike

ateixeira · December 2001

$36, really? Wow.

Yeah, the SP sports replaced them.

-juice

paisan · December 2001

I got 8 tires shipped for $600! 4 Scorpion ATs in 275-70-16 and 4 Dunlop D60A2 in 205-60-14. So far the Dunlops are great in the dry, not as good as my old yokohama AVS intermediates, but definitely good. In the wet the only day I used em in the rain was right after they were installed so they weren't quite broken in yet and were quite slippery.

-mike

lark6 · December 2001

I had D60A2's on my '86 Jetta and I was happy with them for the price. I was on my second set when the car was totaled in March 1996. They replaced a set of Bridgestone RE71's which were discontinued in 185/60R14. Not as sticky as the Bridgestones in the dry, a bit better in the wet, better tread wear. I think you'll enjoy them (again) for the price.

Ed

paisan · December 2001

Thanks Ed. I figure for the price they'll make good winter tires for the XT6. I plan on getting some more Yokohama AVSi's for the summer and I'll also be looking at another set of Kumho R-compounds for next year's Auto-x/track season.

-mike

oclvframe · December 2001

I was able to install the parts for my 01 to 02 console swap. The dealer is still waiting on one last part that keeps being sent incorrectly, but other than that, its in! It looks and works great.

hondafriek: Pat, did your switchcase come with new switches or was it just a plastic switch holder? The one I bought came with the switches and the price was only $6.55 for the two switches and the switchplate! I would have thought those switches would be expensive!

Still searching for the rubber doughnuts, though.

-r

locke2c · December 2001

loosh,

six channel amps exist but the only reason to bother with one is if you want to ensure fade capability between pairs. most quality carfi amplifiers are capable of 2ohm stereo loads, and nearly all carfi speakers are 4ohm. thus you can drive pair of speakers per channel most of the time... in fact, I bet your current setup is driving the four door speakers from two channels on the amp, and then the other two channels of the amp are bridged mono for the sub. (or it's only 3 channel)

The rear deck is not an optimal location for speakers, but I'm not sure that I would have cut holes in the rear doors if it were me. Now that it's done I sure wouldn't waste time putting speakers back in the rear deck though!

There are several opinions but here's mine-- and it's fairly common. Car stereos should be like listening to music at home on a proper stereo. Bass is fairly omnidirectional, so although having subs in the trunk isn't perfect it's really convenient and you don't give up much when done right. Extreme attention should be paid to the front speakers, as they provide the vast majority of what you are hearing. A proper soundstage should be in front and around you, not from behind. Sometimes I don't use rear speakers at all and it works well, but if rear speakers are used they should definitely not be as amplified as the fronts.

I am actually considering installing some of my long dormant carfi gear in my impreza this winter, and I'll have to buy a few new pieces here and there. I plan on using a 4 channel amplifier for the fronts and sub(s), 100 watts to each front speaker/component set, and the 2 rear channels bridged for 400w to the sub(s). I'll use a separate 2 channel amp for the rear speakers, which is 50 watts per channel. If I'm lazy (75% chance, hehe) I'll use the factory rear deck locations. If I get creative, I'll use the rear panel area (look in a 2 door impreza, that big spot under the window).

-Colin

hondafriek · December 2001

I think your dealer definitely made a mistake, I paid more than that for just the switch holder.

The switch,s are expensive think about they are a two way switch with indicator lights built in.

lucien2 · December 2001

Thanks...the kids at the last i-club meet were appalled at the way the system was set up, but it sounds like I got a lot of overblown info too. I'll upgrade the front speakers as you say. They are currently Power Acoustik and have no midrange definition- things like acoustic guitar and ungated snare decay ar pretty lost. Fine for Beasties, not so good for Gomez.

hypov · December 2001

Hella Micro Xenon for ~$550.

It has a longer ranger than my DE Xenon by ~+600 ft.

and $100 less than mine at that time. Would look good on a Forester. :-)

http://www.puma-access.com/hella/microxenon/microxenon.htm

-Dave

fibber2 · December 2001

I put a set of them on my '90 Camry LE V6 wagon back in 1994. Just after I settled on them (dealer & a friends recommendation) Consumer Reports named them their top pick in overall performance. I think they were on the cover of the issue. And I loved them when they were new. Better in every respect compared to the Bridgestone RD106 that came on the car. Unfortunately their character in wet and snow changed drastically at about half life (maybe 5-6 32nds remaining). The problem is that many of the blocks were only cut to about 50% depth, and as they wore, the tread pattern went from 'blocks' to 'stripes'. They no longer shed water (hydroplaned) and spun helplessly in snow.

I retired them early (sorry for the pun) and went to BFG Touring T/A based on block cut depth. Although they were a half notch down in overall performance, they remained constant thru life.

Steve

theob · December 2001

How long did it take to do your console conversions? Any tips you'd like to share?

thanks, Theo

paisan · December 2001

Steve, thanks for the insight. I hope the 205-60-14s are better although for the $36/each I paid if they only last this winter they are worth it. In snow I take out the Trooper with AT tires on it so I'm not too worried about that, I was more concerned with the wet weather on em.

-mike

hondafriek · December 2001

It will only take about an hour to hour and a half to swap out the console.

It is a really easy swap and pretty self explanatory as you go along.

Just be careful when you remove the woodgrain panel around the gearshift, move the shifter to low and pull up slightly to free the clips thn pull back, after that it is jusyt a few screws to remove the console.

Cheers Pat.

oclvframe · December 2001

I second what Pat said about the console swap. The hardest part for me so far has been getting the last remaining part that I still have not heard an ETA for. Thanks to Pat, I found out that it was not a trivial swap of the console cover, but since Pat provided all the part #s necessary (which I listed you in the photo gallery forum)all went as he states above.

I sure hope I could find out when my part will be here!

-r

wmiller4 · December 2001

Picked up my Wheel locks and Diffy Protector from the Subie dealer.
Diffy protector went on with no problems at all. The wheel locks however
looked goofy as heck! I have a '02 Bean and the locks stuck out of the wheel
a good inch and a half! Looked terrible. Dealer has a 20% restock fee and
the part has to come back in original un-opened package. Looks like they are
mine. I of course am not going to put on the wheel locks. They are made for
Subaru by McGard and I am very suprised that the locks were not better
thought out.

francophile · December 2001

Reading about how they test tires reminded me once again why I dropped my subscription to CR; their test criteria do not match what I would use, not just on cars but on electronics, home appliances and yard equipment too. They have a great rep, much of it deserved; they're just not for me.

But then none of the tire comparisons I've ever seen have actually tested tires at half-worn tread depth. I would really like to see someone like Tire Rack step into this huge void, because my experience has been that a LOT of tires' characteristics change dramatically as they wear. Ideally the test would "age" the tires as well as wearing the tread down.

Regards,
-wdb

fibber2 · December 2001

I agree about the locks - they are way oversized compared to the acorn nuts and don't look very good. But I keep reminding myself that I bought them for protection, and put them on the car. I was going to weight them to see if they could conceivably affect balance, but never did. Figured if SoA approved them, they must be close enough not to cause harm.

Comparing tires for handling (wet/dry/snow/braking/cornering) and durability is probably one of the more difficult things a consumer has to face. I cannot think of too many purchases you make that are this costly and important to your enjoyment of your car, or even to your survival. And yet, for most people, the decision is done without any reliable information at all. Price, size, appearance, salesman's comments - that's about it. Consumer Reports has their problems, but at least the data provided a starting point. Too bad they didn't then shave the tires to half tread and check them again. That would complete the picture.

For a while I did think about recutting the blocks to open the channels, but eventually opted for a change of brand.

Steve

ateixeira · December 2001

Interesting point, wdb. It would be useful if they could do a long-term test, or perhaps shave half the tread off and then re-test the tires, comparing new to half worn performance.

-juice

vincer2 · December 2001

Thanks for the idea, suggestions and tips. I'm going to change the console on my 00 OB. It sure will be great to have 2 useable cupholders and to not turn on the seat heater in mid summer when retrieving a cup.

Vince

fibber2 · December 2001

I found a copy of the January 1995 report on H rated performance tires and was surprised to see that a number of the models are still commonly available today. These include the Dunlop D60, Goodrich Comp T/A, Michelin MXV4, Goodyear Eagle GA, and of particular interest to '02 Sube owners, the Bridgestone Potenza RE-92. To my surprise, the RE-92 did respectfully well. I will try to summarize when I get a chance.

Steve

ateixeira · December 2001

Actually, Dunlop replaced the D60 A2 JLB with the SP Sport A2. But stores may have a few left over.

RE92s are not bad when new, but many complain about how they perform after a little wear (half the tread, for example). I don't think CR tests them in that condition.

-juice

kens · December 2001

Steve,

One thing you might want to keep in mind is that OE Tires can be slightly different from those you purchase aftermarket even if they're sold under the same model name. Take for example the Yokohama Geolandar H/T. The Yokos that are standard on the Forester S are not the same ones that CR tested in their recent report. I've also heard that the Michellin XGT that you find on Integras are also different from what you buy aftermarket.

Ken

fibber2 · December 2001

Ken,

Good point - you are quite right about that. Sometimes an auto manufacturer picks a tire, but then does a modification to 'tune' it to work better with the car. The goal could be to quiet or smooth the ride, adjust an understeer or oversteer issue, etc. Treadwise, they usually look the same, but the belt count or materials may be different.

Usually you can tell if it is a custom job. It actually says "OE Spec xxxxxxxxxx" on the sidewall to prevent accidental mismatching with a 'stock replacement' in the event of a single tire failure. Different compliances could adversely affect handling.

I did not notice an OE Spec identifier on my RE-92's, but I will check again.

Steve

locke2c · December 2001

I don't think there's an identifier. For the price that the retail version of the RE92 goes for, you can easily find much better all-season or summer tires. although I just looked on the tirerack and they've got 205/55-16VR 'subaru' RE92's for $70... even at that price, no thanks.

-Colin
(ditched the RE92s at 1k miles)

hondafriek · December 2001

List for $190 Canadian and sell for $160, Colin is right, this puts them in the same territory as a lot of much better tires.

I went one better than Colin and ditched mine with about 100 miles.

I got lucky and was able to trade mine against a set of Goodrich winter slaloms at my local tire dealers.

Cheers Pat.

paisan · December 2001

I don't think there is a OEM identifier, but OEM tires are definitely different than their replacement counter parts. I had a single replacement on my Trooper which I replaced it with a regular tire of the same make, model and size and same wear (was from my previous Rodeo) but after 10K miles of trying to figure out my AWD whine, it turned out the non-oem one was 1/2 Inch different in circumference, and that was causing my problem.

-mike

francophile · December 2001

Check out this link, look under size 205/55HR16, to see an example of the same tire being sold under different specifications :-)

Ho ho ho,

-wdb

locke2c · December 2001

wdb, that's exactly what I saw... I mean, I presume it is. ;-)

you can't link to javascript suffixes, thus your link probably gives everyone else what it gave me-- nothing but a whole bunch of errors.

the tirerack didn't have that selection previously, perhaps they are buying unused Subaru re92s-- tires removed for factory-installed 17", perhaps. or maybe it's just that because of the traffic created by the WRX they do carry the OE-spec re92. either is possible, a while back they sold a whole bunch of surplus / take-off '98RS wheels.

-Colin

paisan · December 2001

I believe OEM tires are different, but I've not seen a specific side-wall designation for them.

-mike

ramon · December 2001

gotta love them! Did you know that RE92s come stock with Mazda Protege?! hahahaha...
OK we have to understand that alot if not most of the tire buyers out there care more about long lasting all seasons. And you know what? These brick like re92s last a while for a 'performance all season'. After all how many drivers are gonna push their cars to it's limits anyways? So re92s have their niche. We're just not part of that niche.

jregen7243 · December 2001

They are also the stock tire on the Honda Prelude (at least the non-type sh models).

Jon

francophile · December 2001

Sorry for the busted URL - it worked when I tested it last night

FYI it's the spec sheet for RE92's at the TireRack website. Surf tires till you reach the specific page for RE92, then click the link for specs.

There are actually some that are different diameters than others! I'm wondering whether the larger diameter ones are used on the Impreza Sport wagon, whatever it's called. I'm pretty sure it comes shod with RE92's too.

Cheers,
-wdb

Subaru Crew - Modifications II

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