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Comments
Stephen
-Dave
http://www.tolan-hoechst.com/cars/tirecalc.htm
if not, then it'll just confuse you more. :-D
-Colin
Stephen
Cheers Pat.
hehe actually it was my feeble attempt to humor.
Guess humor over humor don't work at-all at-all :-D
Anyway, the strut bar, any cutting involved to mount them? I can't really tell from the pics [later and earlier] And would it be cumbersome to remove when cargo space is called upon?
-Dave
The only cutting I had to do (well, didn't have to but chose to) was the hard plastic felt covers to fit around the strut bar where it mounts.
To remove the strut bar you just take off the covers and unbolt from towers, 3 bolts each side. You could possible just unbolt the bar from where it bends as well. I don't carrying big loads to where I need to fold the seats down often. I thought about that before I went ahead and bought the strut bar. In addition, the bar is quite light.
Stephen
-juice
Did someone say it's Friday? I feeling a bit crazy!
Stephen
7kg/mm front springs, 6kg/mm rear
(about 392lb/in and 335lb/in)
16 way single adjustment for compression and rebound
ride height adjustable
also included are rear STi strut mounts ("hats") and front Cusco camberplates. everything will be shipped fully assembled ready to install. 3 spare spring collars provided along with spanner wrench. original owner had one spring perch freeze in place-- I coated the threads and perches in milspec rust preventative to avoid a similar fate.
This suspension is ideal for anyone competing in autocrosses, driving schools or track days. Depending on your tolerance and local roads, the suspension will be somewhere between "acceptable" and "brutal" on the street. I've lived with it for over a year with no serious complaints, but it isn't for everyone and again, I stress serious motorsport enthusiast use only.
new price for coilovers est. $1200, camberplates $250, STi mounts $150.
$1000 or best offer
quick sale desired, trades not considered
purchaser to pay full amount plus any applicable shipping in advance via bank transfer, money order, or cashier's check. references from previous transactions available on request.
Finder's fee reward! If you refer someone to me who completes the transaction and they give credit to you for telling them about the items, I'll send you $50. They must mention your name.
-Colin
Nah, gotta carry the kid in that car. Interesting thought, though.
-juice
http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1813709#post1813709
Stephen
http://home.swbell.net/jmandr/dailypicture.html
See any WRX parts? I also changed the brakes while I had the wheels off. Backs still had 30%+, but wow, am I ever glad I did the fronts, they had 5-10% max, somewhere between 1/16th and 1/8 of an inch remaining, I would guess. First impressions are that I love them and I didn't realize how sloppy my handling had been with my worn tires. It's late, and I'm tired from all that work today. Goodnight. (11:20 pm CST Sunday)
Jim
Jim - Looks very nice!
-Dennis
-juice
Having said, that, how much do you want to spend? ;-)
A smart way to do modifications is to improve the driver, then handling/braking and chassis performance and finally add more power.
The best bang for your buck modification other than taking performance driving classes is to upgrade your wheel/tire combo and the rear sway bar.
A K&N filter will not make much of a difference despite their claims.
Also, it is much harder and costly to upgrade engine performance in naturally aspirated cars than a turbo. What do you drive?
Ken
-scott
From what I've read over at i-club, a BOV really doesn't do much unless your engine is heavily modded. I think the uppipe mod gives the most gains.
Ken
-juice
http://home.swbell.net/jmandr/dailypicture.html
If the offset is the same, and the WRX rims are 1/2 inch wider, do I split the difference (i.e. 1/4 inch) in terms of how much further they "stick out"? Just wondering.
Jim
"One set of prodrive p-7's good cond.one scrap on edge of one wheel. And one set of sumitomo HRZ 2 tires with about 8k always rotated just balanced. 2 tires have plugs about 4k ago. asking $ 900.00 or best offer. Will deliver if in the Baltimore Washinton area."
I assume these are 17X7
Hmm, would those fit a 2002 Legacy? ;-)
-juice
I think 2000 and later Legacy's offset moved to +48mm.
-Dave
So in my opinion, the primary interest here is looks but those are in question due to the damage. I'd need to see pics of the wheels before deciding the value of this deal. I'd initially say sure it's a steal, but if one wheel has serious cosmetic issues (or is even physically damaged) then maybe not.
Also check pricing of the 17" tires you would replace the Sumitomos with and compare the price to the 16" tires you'd otherwise use. They could be neat on the Outback eh? ;-)
-Colin
-mike
-Colin
Still, it'd be cool to have 17s........
-juice
Now a pessimist might say I'm not getting full value for what I'm selling.
Bah. I'm getting enough. I got my use out of them and am really ready to get rid of them and install my SPT springs / KYB AGX struts. Driving to KC Sunday and that'll be a *very* welcome change.
-Colin
As it is I ended up selling them to a WRX owner in the St. Louis area. He posted a pic of them installed on his "STi replica" silver sedan on the i-club earlier this week. Even with shipping I ended up breaking even on the whole deal.
Not exactly a steak to a Rottweiler, I know. I didn't get a lot of interest in them initially. Seems most people looking for aftermarket wheels favor light weight over durability, as if they plan on every day being a track day.
Ed
I got two nibbles on my wife's car already, and if I sell it today I will be thrilled.
-juice
I don,t know about where you are but as a rule of thumb half of the new price used is more than fair, now I have sold a lot of rims and tires used over the years.
Some of them were relatively new as I did not like them once they were on the car, I was never able to get much better than half my origional cost.
So if you had been getting those Prodrive for about $ 650 it would have been worth thinking about, especially since as I recall one had some slight damage.
Cheers Pat.
When something sells quickly there is tendency to think you sold too cheap, and sometimes 50 bucks more means you are stuck with it forever it is all relative.
Cheers Pat.
BTW the way Colin congrats. on a quick sale.
I could have made $50 more and saved a week of hassles.
-juice
Looks like the Tire Rack is selling lots of Prodrive wheels. Every meet I go to, I see a new WRX with Prodrives.
Went to a dinner meet last Wednesday night with only 10 cars. One Rex had P7's and an RS had P1's.
-Dennis
It took about 3 hours of work to swap the suspension on my RS today. I removed Tein type HA coilovers with rear STi top mounts and front Cusco camberplates in favor of all stock mounts, SPT (Eibach) springs and KYB AGX struts. I had the AGX struts on before the coilovers but was using stock springs with them.
First observation-- the car is very nearly as low as I had it with the coilovers. Maybe 3/4" higher, not bad. Also, my 205/55-16 Firestone SZ50EPs clear the struts by like 1/8" or so... this is exactly why I bought 205/55-16s instead of another set of 225/50.
I could immediately tell that the suspension was nowhere near as harsh, literally backing out of the driveway told me as much. I've since discovered that I've got an unbelievable amount of ride comfort and I honestly can tell a marked handling improvement over stock. (I remember what it was like!). Once the car has taken a set ultimate grip really isn't far off what the coilovers offered. Obviously with the much higher spring rate, they were crisper in abrupt transitions than what I have now, but again it isn't bad at all.
Overall I'm very pleased with this change and thrilled to be rid of the coilovers. Now let's see if I can get an alignment tomorrow before I head to KC... But yes, the suspension gets a 180 mile each-way trip so I'll soon have a good idea about the touring comfort too.
-Colin
Sweet -- so you got back quite a bit of comfort without sacrificing a whole lot of performance. Did you do the swap yourself?
Ken
Didn't get to make that trip though, more about that later.
-Colin
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=99c65c7d1b7a4b62c2143e317c4a9fca&threadid=391
As you can see, it doesn't extend any farther than the stock tip did, just bigger.
I lost control of one of the cat-back nuts and it fell into the cat heat shield assembly. All the associated fasteners were corroded beyond help, so the nut stays where it is and we went and got new ones (after 90 minutes of struggle and profanity).
Got it all on and went for a drive....
The "quiet" is marginally louder than stock at idle and cruise, with a pleasing boxer burble. It is quite a bit louder under load, with that sporty hiccup when I lift off; I would not have wanted the medium, that's for sure. No hot-shoe performance gain until 5000, when the car continues to pull to redline instead of dropping off. Perhaps marginally better throttle response. I won't be able to assess this for real until the auto-x on 5/5...too much traffic
Overall I am quite happy with my purchase. It looks purposeful and mature instead of in-your-face and, er, long grain. Sound is just what I wanted, and I anticipate a performance gain around the cones and at the track.
Loosh: nice that it doesn't have a coffee can bolted to the end of it. Is the tip a little short, though? Guess I didn't see what the OE looked like before.
I need some help from electric experts. Here's the scoop: I'm adding a rear view mirror with lights on the bottom of it to my *cough* Miata *cough*. Got it from a junk yard Lumina, of all places. Any how, I ran the wires from the standard interior lights, which still work, all the way up to the mirror.
DANG NABIT I could not figure out the wiring. Kept blowing fuses, or it would not work at all. The wiring is like this - I ran a positive and a negative up to the mirror.
Coming out of the mirror were two black wires. I opened it, and one wire goes to each light. Then there is a green wire and a yellow wire, both going from one light bulb to the other, like a loop.
I tried connecting positive to one black wire, negative to the other - got nothing. Maybe the bulbs are out now that I think about it. Then I tried connecting both black to the positive, the green to the negative - fuse pops.
I need suggestions, please!
-juice
-mike
Stephen
Then again, what fun are mods if you don't have a battle scar to show off? :-)
I bet the bulbs are burned out. Two reasons: the two black wires are the only ones that leave the unit, so one has to be + and the other ground, right? The other reason? It's from a Lumina. ;-)
Why the green and yellow loops, though? There is no switch on the unit itself.
-juice
Not many surprises (to i-clubbers) in the Vishnu article. What I thought was interesting was that they lost h.p. after an ECU reset.
When they hit the dyno, they had just returned from a hard driving/high mileage trip through a couple of states. They did an ECU reset and lost 10 h.p.!
We have smart ECU's in our cars! :-)
-Dennis
Yeah, I heard about the ECU reset dropping HP. I believe it's only temporary as it adjusts to whatever mods have been made. I've had fun w/my Pocketlogger and Palm Pilot. About 3wks ago I got a CEL. I was just doing errands, nothing crazy or stressful on the car. I made an appt to bring the car in but that night the CEL went away and has never been back. The code was stored in the ECU and I extracted it w/the Pocketlogger. It was code 0303; misfire on #3 cylinder. My next oil change is also during my 15k maintenance and I'll have it checked out. I started to record a log today as I was going to the gym but my batteries on the Palm Pilot were low so I aborted it. I did save a bit and will try to download to my computer. I'm having fun w/it. :-)
Stephen
-scott