Nice thing about the Forester - all kinds of room in the wheel well. Mine are 16x7", but a set of 16x7.5" fits. That was the one where I hesitated and they sold out.
Pat - you like expensive tires! Both brands are good but tend to be the priciest out there.
I like your custom gauge cluster. I've thought about putting some in my OB but couldn't figure out where to put them. I like your solution. Could you provide some more details?
Boy did I miss him - the Civic hatchback just didn't cut it. The moonroof looks really well installed to my eye. They even removed the golf ball dent on the roof (actually that's the main reason it had the job done :-)). I'll take a set of pictures over the weekend and post them. It really brightens up the interior on dull days like today!
The gauges are a voltmeter and an oil pressure gauge both made by autometer, autometer are not cheap but in my opinion they are the best, I have used them in all the cars I have owned.
The oil pressure gauge is electronic not mechanical do not like oil under pressure running into the car in case a line breaks had it happen once makes a hell of a mess. The gauge pod is for a Honda civic, there is nothing available for the legacy or the outback but is easily made to fit with a heat gun and a little bit of trimming.
If you look again at the photos of the engine you can see I made up an adapter so I could keep the idiot light for the oil this way there will be no disputes with subaru that I disconnected the factory oil pressure sensor, all the fittings are one eigth MPT. you will need a tee and three connectors. as well you will need about 2 feet of one eigth copper tube to make the little anti vibration coil that you see in the photo this absorbs engine vibrations so the line will not break.
You have to remove the oil pressure sensor from the engine and replace it with a pipe connector the sensor then is srewed into the tee along with the sensor for the gauge.
The wiring for the gauges is fully explained in the instructions that come with the gauges, I hope this explanation is detailed enough for you if not you can e-mail at my e-mail address you can find it in my profile.
Cheers Pat.
PS. I also had to silver solder a bracket on the tee so I could mount it somewhere on the engine you could have this done by your friendly mechanic if you cannot do it yourself.
Yes... lots of ideas. I wanted to mount guages and was thinking of using the space benath my CD receiver but the A pillar pod looks nice. I also need to finish my net map pockets for the seatbacks. Have the prototoype on the dining room table. Now I have the inspiration to finish them.
Pat , what window tint did you have installed? Manufacturer, color, percentage? I can no longer get the Madico Autolux that I loved in my 00 wagon. It was the color of Rayban sunglasses with the overall effect of being rather nuetral in color. Anyone use Solarguard?
The tint I have on is LLumar and it is charcoal it does not have the blue or purple colour to it, I had it on both of my Accords. It has been on the 89 for about 5 years and no problems the back windows are 20% and the front windows are 30% hope this answers your questions.
for the great description. Seems doable except maybe the silver solder. If I remember my metal shop days, that requires a hand torch? But, doesn't seem to require as much work as I had envisioned. Now, have to get my financial manager (fiance) to approve the expenditure.
are now available at :http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4292743515 I am extremely please both with the roof and the installation. The size is quite adequate (nothing like the premium however), the operation is great with one touch open and close, auto close with over-rides, vent mode, etc. Noise is interesting. At speeds over 80 kph (50 mph) the roof is extremely quiet in all positions. Under 80, the roof thrums unless closed about 2 inches or 1 or more windows are cracked open. In all, it is just what the doctor ordered. Rufus is now almost perfect. BTW, I figured I should test the roof for leaks so I washed him, that led to waxing - including the wheels (a first for me). Never realized OCD was contagious. :-)
Made it back from the divisional autocross in one piece. First of all, an explanation for everyone that knows what an autocross is but has never been to a big one like a divisional, national tour, or prosolo.
First of all, everything is done correctly. No cars without numbers, or shoe polished numbers. All cars have complete badging. The courses are also larger and wider than average since there are rules on course construction. This usually makes them faster too. ;-) Cars run in numerical order and by class, so all your competitors run at roughly the same time you do, unlike a regional event where your run all willy-nilly. (I'll post an image of the course layout and a few pics tonight.)
I met up with some of the KC guys, none of whom are present here on Edmunds but (of course) are iClubbers. Pat, Jeff and Steve all have MY00 2.5RS'. We all had a good list of mods... suspension-wise it was Jeff and Steve on DMS Gold coilovers, Pat on Leda C's, and me on Tein HAs. Jeff's car was particularly impressive though, with a Vishnu/Minnam intercooled turbo and Electromotive TEC-II programmable computer. (Went for a brief ride-- very fast.)
Anyway, Steve was only there for Sunday but he ran well. Pat won STS (street touring street tire), and Jeff beat me in SM (street modified) but we both were creamed by a well-driven turbo FWD Talon and a Z28 SS. Driving matters most in autocross, and Jeff and I both have a lot to learn. :-D
Anyway, I started to get more comfortable with the car but I'm still nowhere near its limits. Very happy with my suspension and the grip of the Kumho V700s. They are big for a 225/50-16 though, they're about 1/4" - 3/8" from the strut in the rear. No problems with fender rub even 2" lower than stock height though since I have extremely stiff springs. They seem to want a lot of negative camber though, I had -2.0 up front and -1.2 in the rear and it wasn't ideal, although it was enough that I wasn't chewing the outer shoulders... I just wasn't using the last 1/2" of the inner shoulder.
Oh, and they are astoundingly quiet on the street for DOT approved race tires. They are actually quieter and ride no worse than my AVS S1 street tires! I wouldn't drive this far on them (90 miles from my door to the event site) but I would drive to local events without worry.
The roof looks really good, in the pics. it looks like a complete asssembly is mounted over your existing headliner is that right? or am I looking at the photos wrong.
I believe that they just modified the existing headliner, but I'm not totally certain. In my younger days I did all of my own work - rebuilt engines & transmissions, repaired upholstery, everything short of painting. Now I just check to make sure they did the job well. Old age and a bit of money are to blame. ;~)
One arm, one-half leg. Actually it was $1350 Cn (~$860 US). It's a Solaire/Webasto 5300 - the US web site lists the price as $1054 I believe, so it wasn't too bad a deal. Still, I'll be careful not to offend Rufus in the future, I can't afford the make-up gifts. :-)
Actually that is not a bad price, two years ago I paid$1099.oo for a power roof that opened above the roof on my accord wagon.
When it was open the opening was small, you appear to have the full width of the opening as well as having a factory look, I would gladly have paid the extra cash to have had a roof like yours installed but the choices in Ottawa are limited to either a pop up or what I got, this was the second car that I added this type of roof to, never again I had all kinds of squeaks and groans that were never there before.
Having said all that yours looks like a much better installation again I wish you mush enjoyment.
I did get to see the installation part way through and it is very well braced - it's probably a lot stronger than before. So far it is very quiet. I'm keeping my eyes and ears crossed.
I believe the make of the abortion that I had was solar ray, I remember at the time I was researching having it done reading about all these factory like installs that could be had in California and being really envious.
As I said what I got is basically all that is available here, Ottawa appears to be very much a backwater as far as modifying cars goes, choices are extremely limited there is virtually nothing available for the legacy, I could not even find crossdrilled rotors at any price for a 2000 or 2001 Legacy I had to leave my own rotors in and have them cross drilled.
Hell the parts lists that they have only go as far as 1999, maybe they imagine that subaru stopped making legacys after that in order to concentrate all their energy into making Imprezas (whatever).
Got my Kartboy shifter last night. Man, that was fast -- I just ordered it on Friday evening. It probably helped that they're located in San Diego, but nonetheless, I was amazed.
The shifter looks very well made. Professional quality finish. Can't wait to put it in. Maybe tomorrow evening. I'll post results w/pix when I'm done.
I have a 01 Legacy GT Ltd and lately, and I have been tempted by the upgrade bug during my net searches for some beginner mods. However, not violating the three-year warranty is still the prioirity, as I don't aspire to turn my GT into a B4.
What can a rookie do for the exhaust/intake and suspension without voiding the warranty?
I'm not sure about Canada, but here in the US, a manufacturer can't void a warranty based simply on the existence of modifications. The dealer must show that the modification led to the failure of a specific part for that to happen.
In practice, dealer reactions to modifications will vary. Some will throw a fit while others don't even give it a second look.
Ross - that is cheap. The ASC roof at Adler & Mandel with power was $900, plus $70 to cut the roof rails short. You saved more than $100 and got a bigger roof with controls you prefer.
Wow, Ryan, is that in an Impreza? Nice seats - are those Sparco?
Ken: I'm sure you've seen my photos on the shift lever install. The trick is to pull the old one out like a chicken bone. It pops right out. To get the new one in, use a peice of wood and a big hammer to pop it in. Let us know how it goes.
As Ken said, you can find a mod-friendly dealer. Some will even intall parts for you, and still honor warranty claims.
However, there are limits. I'm sure if you blow the engine with a massive turbo kit noone's going to help you much.
Finished my map pockets for the back of my seats. Made em out of a cargo net and some shock cord. Worked out great. Now I need pictures to show em off.
I posted a pic of my car in the photos discussion... unfortunately the fact I cleaned it is lost on the poor image quality and composition. Oh well, I was there to compete, not shoot pics. ;-)
The results are here. Still getting comfortable with the car, I'm nowhere near good enough to just jump in and click off great runs. Surprisingly I was the fastest Subaru of the weekend, Jeff should have clobbered me and Pat was on street tires.
That's for my PIAA XT80 pencil beams. They're not wired too cleanly right now (visually I mean) I should probably get around to cleaning it up. It's not a show car though (quite the opposite) so I'm not too concerned. The exterior took quite a beating the first few years I had the car.
Holy short shifter Batman! I installed the Kartboy today and it is significantly shorter than the stock Forester lever. Eyeballing the difference, I'd say the shift knob is about 1.5" lower than stock. If you have the premium stereo on the Forester (98-00), the old shifter would put my hand about level with the cassette deck. Now my hand is down by the CD player!
Went for a test drive and the shifts go firmly into gear with little play. It reminded me of a stiffer Miata shifter. The short length is makes the 1->2 shift feel a lot more secure -- snick, snick. I still felt a little strange going into 5th or reverse as I have to extend my arm out a little more than I am used to.
My overall impression is favorable. If the world was perfect, I'd actually lengthen the lever just a tad for us Forester owners.
Mine's at least an inch shorter, too. If you want it a little longer, there is a lot of threading on the knob, so you probably could use a spacer of some sort, maybe a short bolt in there.
Did it also change the leverage? i.e. is the length below the fulcrum (*) greater than before?
I was wondering how much shorter your shifter was compared to the stock Forester one. I don't recall seeing a photo of the finished product in your Photopoint album.
I drove to work today and the throws are much shorter and the shifts require a little more pressure. The overall feel is a much more firm and "secure". My biggest beef with the stock Forester shifter is that it seemed to flex a bit.
Could you describe a little more what you were thinking about when installing a spacer? Would that be something that goes inside the shift knob vs. on the end of the lever?
I'll have pics up soon to show you the drastic differences in length.
Yeah, the difference is dramatic. I just e-mailed Kartboy to see if there's anything that can be done to extend the length.
I'm going to try it out for a bit. If it's a big issue, I think even the stock 2.5 RS shifter would be an improvement. I'm sure someone would be willing to swap.
Comments
Cheers Pat.
Cheers Pat.
Pat - you like expensive tires! Both brands are good but tend to be the priciest out there.
-juice
Thanks,
Brett
BTW, your GT looks MUCH better than stock!
Ross
bit
Cheers Pat.
The oil pressure gauge is electronic not mechanical do not like oil under pressure running into the car in case a line breaks had it happen once makes a hell of a mess. The gauge pod is for a Honda civic, there is nothing available for the legacy or the outback but is easily made to fit with a heat gun and a little bit of trimming.
If you look again at the photos of the engine you can see I made up an adapter so I could keep the idiot light for the oil this way there will be no disputes with subaru that I disconnected the factory oil pressure sensor, all the fittings are one eigth MPT. you will need a tee and three connectors. as well you will need about 2 feet of one eigth copper tube to make the little anti vibration coil that you see in the photo this absorbs engine vibrations so the line will not break.
You have to remove the oil pressure sensor from the engine and replace it with a pipe connector the sensor then is srewed into the tee along with the sensor for the gauge.
The wiring for the gauges is fully explained in the instructions that come with the gauges, I hope this explanation is detailed enough for you if not you can e-mail at my e-mail address you can find it in my profile.
Cheers Pat.
PS. I also had to silver solder a bracket on the tee so I could mount it somewhere on the engine you could have this done by your friendly mechanic if you cannot do it yourself.
bit
bit
Ken
bit
It has been on the 89 for about 5 years and no problems the back windows are 20% and the front windows are 30% hope this answers your questions.
Cheers Pat.
Thanks again,
-Brett
Ross
Ross
Looks great!.
bit
-juice
LOL.
Ross
Made it back from the divisional autocross in one piece. First of all, an explanation for everyone that knows what an autocross is but has never been to a big one like a divisional, national tour, or prosolo.
First of all, everything is done correctly. No cars without numbers, or shoe polished numbers. All cars have complete badging. The courses are also larger and wider than average since there are rules on course construction. This usually makes them faster too. ;-) Cars run in numerical order and by class, so all your competitors run at roughly the same time you do, unlike a regional event where your run all willy-nilly. (I'll post an image of the course layout and a few pics tonight.)
I met up with some of the KC guys, none of whom are present here on Edmunds but (of course) are iClubbers. Pat, Jeff and Steve all have MY00 2.5RS'. We all had a good list of mods... suspension-wise it was Jeff and Steve on DMS Gold coilovers, Pat on Leda C's, and me on Tein HAs. Jeff's car was particularly impressive though, with a Vishnu/Minnam intercooled turbo and Electromotive TEC-II programmable computer. (Went for a brief ride-- very fast.)
Anyway, Steve was only there for Sunday but he ran well. Pat won STS (street touring street tire), and Jeff beat me in SM (street modified) but we both were creamed by a well-driven turbo FWD Talon and a Z28 SS. Driving matters most in autocross, and Jeff and I both have a lot to learn. :-D
Anyway, I started to get more comfortable with the car but I'm still nowhere near its limits. Very happy with my suspension and the grip of the Kumho V700s. They are big for a 225/50-16 though, they're about 1/4" - 3/8" from the strut in the rear. No problems with fender rub even 2" lower than stock height though since I have extremely stiff springs. They seem to want a lot of negative camber though, I had -2.0 up front and -1.2 in the rear and it wasn't ideal, although it was enough that I wasn't chewing the outer shoulders... I just wasn't using the last 1/2" of the inner shoulder.
Oh, and they are astoundingly quiet on the street for DOT approved race tires. They are actually quieter and ride no worse than my AVS S1 street tires! I wouldn't drive this far on them (90 miles from my door to the event site) but I would drive to local events without worry.
-Colin
-juice
Ken
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4292743515
Ross
-juice
Enjoy your roof I know I do.
Cheers Pat.
Ross
Nice moonroof! How much did that cost?
Ken
Ross
When it was open the opening was small, you appear to have the full width of the opening as well as having a factory look, I would gladly have paid the extra cash to have had a roof like yours installed but the choices in Ottawa are limited to either a pop up or what I got, this was the second car that I added this type of roof to, never again I had all kinds of squeaks and groans that were never there before.
Having said all that yours looks like a much better installation again I wish you mush enjoyment.
Cheers Pat.
Ross
As I said what I got is basically all that is available here, Ottawa appears to be very much a backwater as far as modifying cars goes, choices are extremely limited there is virtually nothing available for the legacy, I could not even find crossdrilled rotors at any price for a 2000 or 2001 Legacy I had to leave my own rotors in and have them cross drilled.
Hell the parts lists that they have only go as far as 1999, maybe they imagine that subaru stopped making legacys after that in order to concentrate all their energy into making Imprezas (whatever).
Cheers Pat.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1326599&a=12762818&p=47591595
feels SOOOO nice.
The shifter looks very well made. Professional quality finish. Can't wait to put it in. Maybe tomorrow evening. I'll post results w/pix when I'm done.
Ken
What can a rookie do for the exhaust/intake and suspension without voiding the warranty?
I'm not sure about Canada, but here in the US, a manufacturer can't void a warranty based simply on the existence of modifications. The dealer must show that the modification led to the failure of a specific part for that to happen.
In practice, dealer reactions to modifications will vary. Some will throw a fit while others don't even give it a second look.
Ken
Wow, Ryan, is that in an Impreza? Nice seats - are those Sparco?
Ken: I'm sure you've seen my photos on the shift lever install. The trick is to pull the old one out like a chicken bone. It pops right out. To get the new one in, use a peice of wood and a big hammer to pop it in. Let us know how it goes.
As Ken said, you can find a mod-friendly dealer. Some will even intall parts for you, and still honor warranty claims.
However, there are limits. I'm sure if you blow the engine with a massive turbo kit noone's going to help you much.
-juice
Those are Subaru STi seats. They were pulled from a WRX STi RA in Japan before it was rally prepped.
The red suede just happened to match the colored trim on the seats perfectly, and the texture of the grey alcantara on the seat as well.
Nitrous? hehe, just joking.
-Colin
bit
The results are here. Still getting comfortable with the car, I'm nowhere near good enough to just jump in and click off great runs. Surprisingly I was the fastest Subaru of the weekend, Jeff should have clobbered me and Pat was on street tires.
'night all,
-Colin
That's for my PIAA XT80 pencil beams. They're not wired too cleanly right now (visually I mean) I should probably get around to cleaning it up. It's not a show car though (quite the opposite) so I'm not too concerned. The exterior took quite a beating the first few years I had the car.
Went for a test drive and the shifts go firmly into gear with little play. It reminded me of a stiffer Miata shifter. The short length is makes the 1->2 shift feel a lot more secure -- snick, snick. I still felt a little strange going into 5th or reverse as I have to extend my arm out a little more than I am used to.
My overall impression is favorable. If the world was perfect, I'd actually lengthen the lever just a tad for us Forester owners.
Pics to follow soon.
Ken
Mine's at least an inch shorter, too. If you want it a little longer, there is a lot of threading on the knob, so you probably could use a spacer of some sort, maybe a short bolt in there.
Did it also change the leverage? i.e. is the length below the fulcrum (*) greater than before?
-juice
* Mike Smith would love that word!
I was wondering how much shorter your shifter was compared to the stock Forester one. I don't recall seeing a photo of the finished product in your Photopoint album.
I drove to work today and the throws are much shorter and the shifts require a little more pressure. The overall feel is a much more firm and "secure". My biggest beef with the stock Forester shifter is that it seemed to flex a bit.
Could you describe a little more what you were thinking about when installing a spacer? Would that be something that goes inside the shift knob vs. on the end of the lever?
I'll have pics up soon to show you the drastic differences in length.
Ken
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1013602&a=12802287
I didn't document a step-by-step since juice and others have already done a great job in capturing the instructions.
Notice the big difference in height. It's taking some getting used to the firm and short throws.
juice -- Did you do anything to rememdy the "sagging" shifter boot? My shifter looks like Tom Hanks after he becomes a kid again in "Big".
Ken
Hey - I have to find something to do while Notes replicates this guy's mail! ;-)
HOLY COW! Just saw the photos. No way, no how, mine's not nearly that short. My difference is about only half of that, hence the boot is not an issue.
It does look like you have a bit more leverage, but I'd say mine actually is longer below the fulcrum.
-juice
Must have missed the side-by-sides.
Yeah, the difference is dramatic. I just e-mailed Kartboy to see if there's anything that can be done to extend the length.
I'm going to try it out for a bit. If it's a big issue, I think even the stock 2.5 RS shifter would be an improvement. I'm sure someone would be willing to swap.
Ken
Ross
Here's a photo comparing the Kartboy, stock 2.5 RS and STi shifters:
http://www.azscooby.com/mods/AZScooby/Peaty/kartboy-sti.php
The fulcrum length looks similar between the STi and Kartboy. The length above that is significantly different.
Ken